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OWNERS thread for Mitsubishi HC7800 - Page 9

post #241 of 349
Quote:
Originally Posted by tx_flip View Post

I'm in the stage of planning the install of this projector and came upon a probably obvious question but didn't quite see a solution or advice within the manual or other posts in this forum. For folks ceiling mounting their projectors, how are you installing or connecting the 3D sensor? Does the sensor need to be installed somewhere in front of the viewer similar to that of Kinect? Thanks in advance, y'all.

Jason

I've been able to get away with having the transmitter propped on the back of the couch I'm sitting on (more or less directly under the ceiling-mounted projector) and bouncing the signal off the front wall.

I don't watch 3D content all that often and I don't leave the transmitter plugged in when I'm not watching 3D.. I've found that it interferes with the signal for the remote control -> projector.

There's probably a more elegant setup than this but it gets the job done for occasional 3D viewing.
post #242 of 349
Thanks, Parker. Once I get it up there, it won't be an easy task getting up there to connect and reconnect. I'll rig something up but good to know I can reflect off the front.
post #243 of 349
Wanted to ask how everyones recent experiences have been with this projector.... I know some had great experiences early on while others not so much. The reviews seem mixed and I was hoping the latest batch being shipped are proving to be more successful than not. I ask because NewEgg has a fantastic deal on these right now with two pairs of glasses that seems hard to beat. So my dilemma is to either get the HC7800 at a great deal or to get the Sony HW50AES at a really good deal but obviously not quite as good as the Mitsubishi. I figured if I go the Mits route it might tide me over until 4K really blows up.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Greg
post #244 of 349
Quote:
Originally Posted by parkerNY View Post

Thanks for the feedback, those are good points.

I ended up opting for the older Mitsubishi as I think it'll fit my room better.. dark basement with no ambient light, mostly 2D viewing of 720p TV and 1080p movies, plus I really wanted a throw distance of 16-18' to place the projector behind our seating area.

Hopefully the strategy of buying a discounted year-old midrange projector vs. newer entry-level projector pays off.


So how did it turn out? Feel good about the purchase? I am in a similar boat as you were.

Thanks,
Greg
post #245 of 349
Get the Sony and don't look back. I've owned the HC7800D and demo'ed a HW50ES for a few hours. The Sony is by far nicer.
post #246 of 349
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seegs108 View Post

Get the Sony and don't look back. I've owned the HC7800D and demo'ed a HW50ES for a few hours. The Sony is by far nicer.

Yep, that's what I figured but was wondering if the savings is justified to go the cheaper route for now. Honestly I am leaning more towards the Sony but wanted to cover my basis first so I can be prepared when talking to the wife wink.gif
post #247 of 349
I personally don't think it's worth it to get the Mitsubishi over the Sony. The DI is way too noticeable to use on most content and the iris IS needed to get decent black levels and contrast. It would be a nice "3D only" projector on a smaller screen though.
post #248 of 349
Isn't the Sony HW50ES ($3,000 at Amazon) almost three times the price of the Mitsubishi HC7800D ($1,170 at Newegg) and almost 18 months newer? I'd hope that it would be nicer.. but I set myself a budget of $1,500 and was happy to get the Mitsubishi (which was a $3,000 projector a year ago) with 2 pairs of 3D glasses for $1,300.

This is just one guy's opinion of his first projector, but:

TLDR version: I'm really happy with the purchase and love watching 1080p content on a 110-120" screen (still haven't decided which is better for my 12-13' viewing distance yet).

I upgraded from a circa 2009 54" Panasonic TC-P54G10 plasma to the HC7800D. I don't have a screen yet because I'm still finishing up my install (need to mount the center channel speaker), so all of my experience with the projector over the past month has been with it just projected onto drywall. By all accounts, the picture will improve when I get a proper projection screen.

But, even without a screen, I think the picture looks great. It took me a little while to play around with the settings, and my HDMI color space was set incorrectly at first on my XBMC HTPC box, but now I'm really happy with the overall picture quality. I use Auto Iris 3 for the deepest blacks and don't notice any issues with the iris, maybe I have an updated firmware or something? Reviews of this projector mention that it has very good gamma and color levels out of the box and I've found that to be the case.

I have a "Batcave" basement with no ambient light and watch the projector with all of the lights in the room turned off. I use the "low lamp" mode for everything other than 3D so that I can extend the life of the lamp and reduce fan noise. There's no noticeable fan noise at all in low lamp mode, and relatively quiet noise on normal mode.

I have some wall sconces on a dimmer switch but at anything above the very dimmest setting they start to wash out the projected image. I would not buy this projector if I was unable to control ambient light and would look at one of the newer, brighter projectors for that kind of viewing environment. The HC7800D is definitely meant for use in a dark room.

I'm very happy with the picture quality of the projector and it compares favorably with my Panasonic plasma, which I had loved. In outdoor scenes with natural lighting, like scenes in the woods in Game of Thrones Season 2, the picture is just incredible. And going from a 54" plasma screen to 120" projection is a huge difference and gives a real home theater feel to the experience of watching movies and TV. 3D Blurays with the Mitsubishi glasses are really impressive, far better than any 3D I've seen in a theater.

There are times, particularly in very dark/indoor scenes, when I feel like the black levels/contrast are not quite as good as they had been on my Panasonic plasma and some details are hard to see. This seems to be a common complaint about low/mid-range projectors so I guess it's to be expected but it is one area that could be improved.

My one real gripe is that my projector does show the "dim corner" effect that people referred to earlier in the thread; my pj is ceiling mounted and the top right corner is slightly dimmer than the rest of the picture. It's not noticeable when watching video but I do notice it when I'm navigating XBMC menus and it does bug me a little bit. For a projector that had an original MSRP of $4,000 I would have liked it if they could have gotten a 100% uniform brightness across the entire picture. Someone had a theory that it was due to lens shift but I need to have the lens shifted as much as possible to try and get the picture higher on my wall, so I can't do anything about that.

My theory with buying this projector was that I'd be getting a slightly older $3,000 midrange projector for $1,300 and that it would be better than cheaper entry-level projectors but not as good as current model $3,000 midrange projectors. I think that's pretty much proven to be the case. I don't regret the purchase at all, it's been a big upgrade over my previous 54" plasma, and I think it will serve me well for years until 4K projectors and content start to become affordable/available. The price/performance of the HC7800D at $1,300 has proven to be everything that I'd hoped for.
Edited by parkerNY - 4/24/13 at 1:56pm
post #249 of 349
Thanks parkerNY for you detailed response. And yes, the Sony is almost 3 times as much depending on what kind of discounts you can find. I think the Amazon model you are referring too is actually the previous Sony model HW30ES. You definitely approached it from the standpoint I am currently at and how I am viewing future upgrades (4K). The upfront cost is low enough for me to not worry about the initial investment whenever it's time to bail and get something newer. I know I will be upgrading no matter which route I go thus the thinking in getting something a little less expensive than the Sony. I think this projector might work out fine for my immediate needs but there are a couple of things that do bother me that I am not sure I can get by. One is the lack of horizontal shift. My current projector is ceiling mounted so my position is fixed and I am not too sure how centered the 7800 would end up being. The other thing you mentioned is the need for a dark environment. My room was setup to be a batcave for night time movie watching but now that we have kids, we would like to use the room more throughout the day, so a brighter projector would be preferred in this case. I even just recently bought a BD 1.4 screen to help out in that regards and now I would like to replace my aging projector to match it. I know the Sony is more suitable for dimmer environments as well but I was thinking it's higher lumen output with the BD screen would get me to where I want to be. It won't be perfect but should be more than entertaining.

The Sony is higher initial cost and I know I will replace once 4K becomes affordable but who knows when that will be? Next year? Five years? I don't know if I could live with the 7800 for 5 years but 2 or 3 would work for me providing 4K is affordable.

I am definitely leaning more towards the Sony because I feel it will meet all of my needs. I just need to get past the cost which is not really a big deal except the fact that I don't want to be feeling the need to upgrade in a year or two with that much of an investment in the HW50ES.

Thanks to you both for your inputs.

Anybody else care to chime in?

Greg
post #250 of 349
I have recently purchased this unit through Amazon. I am wondering if there is any way to check or update the firmware. The menus accessed by the remote are sluggish and inaccurate at times. Looks like I received one of the earliest units. I can see the difference between my 7-year old 720p projector HC3000 and this projector, because of higher pixel count with this one. However, the black levels are very similar to my old projector once calibrated. I have tried various basic calibration settings found in review sites. But I always notice a 'magenta problem' in whites as described here.

Anybody have suggestions? I am waiting for my third party 3D glasses to arrive.
Edited by kosha - 5/2/13 at 8:05am
post #251 of 349
Sorry for raising this question once again, but I am about to spend my money so I would like to ask this again.

7800 vs w7000

Pricing - 1300 vs 1700 on amazon. I would say doesn't make much difference if w7000 is much better.

Few points for w7000

- 4x wheel vs 1x wheel of 7800. I did notice rainbows on 7800 (didn't get a chance to see w7000 in action sadly!).
- RF (w7000) vs IR (w7800)
- brightness is more
- black levels - not sure if there is a significant difference or would it be splitting hair?

However, hc7800 WAS a much more expensive projector. Seems lot of options for customization in 7800 (whatever I could gather from reading reviews), blacking out "grey bars" for wide content.

Confused and need to decide today/ max by tomorrow.
Would appreciate help. Screen size 108", distance 13ft, ceiling mount, current projector panasonic 200u. Very good 3D performance is a must, tolerance for some ambient light, but not brightly lit, just that some light leaks into the living room from other rooms a little. But I have black out curtains etc to keep ambient light at a minimum.
post #252 of 349
Do not buy the Mitsubishi HC7800D. Save your money for HC8000D or future Mitsubishi projectors. Here is my impression after owning HC7800D for 2-3 days. I don't have the glasses to check 3D viewing with this unit.

1. The menus accessed by the remote are sluggish and freezes at times. The remote from my older Mitsubishi projector is working with HC7800 without problems. It could be a bad remote or a bad sensor or bad software.
2. This projector has three auto iris settings. I don't see any difference in black level after engaging these settings.
3. I have now tried various basic calibration settings found in review sites. But I always notice a 'magenta problem' in whites as described here. I can reproduce the problem in my Oppo blu-ray player, BDP-83. When I start up the player I can see very easily the magenta tint on the white Oppo logo. I never saw this in the older projector. I wonder if this can be cured by full ISF professional calibration.
4. I cannot update the firmware or software without sending the unit to Mitsubishi's service center.
Quote:
Originally Posted by anm View Post

Sorry for raising this question once again, but I am about to spend my money so I would like to ask this again.

Edited by kosha - 5/2/13 at 8:28am
post #253 of 349
thanks kosha.
frankly I was not looking very hard at the magenta problem, but I can go to a local showroom once more to confirm. The menus were quite fast in my demo, and I am hoping I can get the fw upgrade in this showroom.

New mits would be much more expensive, won't it be?
One of my friends is coming over from the US and can carry a projector for me. The pricing here locally is twice that of the US, and I have been looking out for a projector for some time now, so thought I should pull the trigger now. But if the difference in quality is going to be huge in next iteration, I can wait for a few months.
post #254 of 349
If you are not too critical about colors you will like the projector. In fact, any of those two projectors will be a nice upgrade from your 720p Panasonic 200u. I don't see rainbows in DLP projectors. So I can't comment on that.
You are right. HC8000D will be a lot more expensive.
post #255 of 349
whenever you move your eye rapidly, you can see the rainbow. doesn't bother me too much though.
post #256 of 349
Just not to miss anything, I noted the dim corner. Upper rigth with ceiling mount. Goes away reducing lens shift (I was at max height, that corresponds to lowest if table mounted). Mostly unnoticeable in normal viewing. Seems a "feature" of this projector.
post #257 of 349
I have a optoma hd20 right now how much of an upgrade would the HC7800 be over it? Was looking at the deal over at newegg with the glasses and wondering if it was worth it for me? Thanks
post #258 of 349
I've had my projector for several months now and I am more happy with it as time goes by. I had it in my living room for a month while I was finishing my basement build.

This is not built for ambient light but at an 85" screen in standard lamp, 2D viewing was manageable. At night low mode was Adequate. In my basement its in low lamp mode all the time except 3D. Plenty of lumens for my 106" 1.0 gain screen.

No color problems for me. The color accuracy and skin tones are amazing. I just used values I found online to "calibrate" I've never had a single chip DLP before but the sharpness is great for me. I noticed some softness occasionally when using my cable box as a source but blurays are super sharp so I would put the onus on the source not the projector.

Black levels aren't great but for normal watching I don't notice.

Bottom line: I have no pony in this race. I wanted a budget projector to last me 2 years so I could upgrade. I'm not trying to pick it apart or defend my purchase.

I've had many people come over and watch the game or a movie and everyone has been impressed. Not one person has watched a movie and after said "the black levels are low". When its the only projector in the room and you're immersed in the movie, all you notice is the great picture quality. I don't find any of the flaws distracting. This is coming from a movie and tech lover. Not a videophile. For what it's worth.
post #259 of 349
Quote:
Originally Posted by jvh4 View Post

I've had my projector for several months now and I am more happy with it as time goes by. I had it in my living room for a month while I was finishing my basement build.

This is not built for ambient light but at an 85" screen in standard lamp, 2D viewing was manageable. At night low mode was Adequate. In my basement its in low lamp mode all the time except 3D. Plenty of lumens for my 106" 1.0 gain screen.

No color problems for me. The color accuracy and skin tones are amazing. I just used values I found online to "calibrate" I've never had a single chip DLP before but the sharpness is great for me. I noticed some softness occasionally when using my cable box as a source but blurays are super sharp so I would put the onus on the source not the projector.

Black levels aren't great but for normal watching I don't notice.

Bottom line: I have no pony in this race. I wanted a budget projector to last me 2 years so I could upgrade. I'm not trying to pick it apart or defend my purchase.

I've had many people come over and watch the game or a movie and everyone has been impressed. Not one person has watched a movie and after said "the black levels are low". When its the only projector in the room and you're immersed in the movie, all you notice is the great picture quality. I don't find any of the flaws distracting. This is coming from a movie and tech lover. Not a videophile. For what it's worth.

This pretty much sums up my feelings exactly after a few months of ownership. It's my first projector and going from a 54" plasma to 120" projection has got me hooked on big screens.

I've had to put a lot of work into running power/HDMI to the projector, wiring speakers through the wall, and someday will be putting in a fixed-frame screen.. but once all that's done, it will be an easy upgrade some time down the road to swap out the HC7800D and replace it with a 4K projector which is my long-term goal.

I know the HC7800D isn't the best projector on the market, but I figured it was about the best I'd find on a $1,500 budget that would allow me some installation flexibility (I wanted at least a 15' throw or I might have just bought a $900 Benq W1070). And I get to enjoy a 120" picture for the next few years which has made it a lot more fun to watch TV/movies than my old plasma.

Bang for the buck, I don't really have any regrets. My only issue with the picture quality right now is that the image gets washed out during bright scenes, but that's because I still have white walls/ceiling and no projection screen. Once I get that resolved I expect I'll be even more satisfied with the HC7800D.
post #260 of 349
Hey guys is there somewhere that has calibration settings posted for this projector?
post #261 of 349
Quote:
Originally Posted by DreamAgain2 View Post

Hey guys is there somewhere that has calibration settings posted for this projector?

I've seen a few different ones in various reviews of the HC7800D.

I've been happiest with the Cinema gamma setting and the color temperature settings from the Projector Central review:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/mitsubishi_hc7800d_full_hd_3d_projector_review.htm?page=Performance
post #262 of 349
Quote:
Originally Posted by DreamAgain2 View Post

Hey guys is there somewhere that has calibration settings posted for this projector?
You do realize that using the settings that other people use is about as useless as pissin in the ocean to raise the level.. Download the AVS 709 Disk from the calibration forum and set the brightness, contrast, sharpness and overscan, you will be way better off then using what someone else used.
There is a reason why, every lamp will be somewhat different and as it ages it changes.. also the room environment, type of screen, and electronic parts tolerance all effect the settings. Without making the adjustments on your own, using the proper patterns you are really just playing the lottery.
But here are some numbers Brightness 3 Crontrast -2 sharpness 0 wink.gif BTW I just made those up so don't use them.. or do, it might be correct!
post #263 of 349
Quote:
Originally Posted by airscapes View Post

You do realize that using the settings that other people use is about as useless as pissin in the ocean to raise the level.. Download the AVS 709 Disk from the calibration forum and set the brightness, contrast, sharpness and overscan, you will be way better off then using what someone else used.
There is a reason why, every lamp will be somewhat different and as it ages it changes.. also the room environment, type of screen, and electronic parts tolerance all effect the settings. Without making the adjustments on your own, using the proper patterns you are really just playing the lottery.
But here are some numbers Brightness 3 Crontrast -2 sharpness 0 wink.gif BTW I just made those up so don't use them.. or do, it might be correct!

I'm new to projectors but calibration settings posted around here regarding to Plasmas/LCD's in the past have always given me a good base to start with. Especially for someone who doesn't have the tools/equipment to do a proper one.
post #264 of 349
Quote:
Originally Posted by DreamAgain2 View Post

I'm new to projectors but calibration settings posted around here regarding to Plasmas/LCD's in the past have always given me a good base to start with. Especially for someone who doesn't have the tools/equipment to do a proper one.

Well here is a link to a tool that if used correctly to set just the basic brightness/contrast and sharpness be it on an projector or any other display , will have you way ahead of anyone using someone else's settings as those 3 will actually be set correctly for your environment and device.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/948496/avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration/0_100
post #265 of 349
Quote:
Originally Posted by airscapes View Post

Well here is a link to a tool that if used correctly to set just the basic brightness/contrast and sharpness be it on an projector or any other display , will have you way ahead of anyone using someone else's settings as those 3 will actually be set correctly for your environment and device.
http://www.avsforum.com/t/948496/avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration/0_100

Thanks for the reminder, I used this a few years ago on my plasma and was happy with the brightness/contrast levels I calibrated using it. I'll have to check it out on my projector and see what kind of results I get.
post #266 of 349
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/4946/cam00011y.jpg

Not sure if you can see it in the picture I took but there is a black border not quite 1 inch thick that goes around the entire screen. Is this normal? This is full screen content, doesn't matter if it's DirecTV or my computer or Xbox.. the border is there.
post #267 of 349
That is perfectly normal.
post #268 of 349
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seegs108 View Post

That is perfectly normal.

thanks, good to know
post #269 of 349
Is anyone able to use generic 3D glasses with the stock emitter?
post #270 of 349
Edit: Sorry I was in the wrong thread.
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