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OWNERS thread for Mitsubishi HC7800 - Page 12

post #331 of 349
So with my wife out of town I finally got a chance to do a side by side comparison of the original Mitsu glasses and the Estar kit. I was pleasantly surprised.

I tested both glasses with Little Mermaid 3D Bluray, MIB III 3D Bluray, GrandCanyon on 3D Netflix, and Resident Evil 3D Comcast.

Crosstalk:
I did not experience crosstalk at any point with any glasses. This obviously means I should try to push them harder, but both glasses passed that test for me. I even paused the screen for the Disney castle which can be a source of crosstalk for many. Admittedly, I did not have a test image, just in-movie testing.

Brightness:
At first I thought the Estar were a little brighter than the Mitsu, , but after some considerable testing I determined it was likely due to some slight color shifting (discussed below). My final verdict is that the glasses have very similar brightness reduction.

Color:
The Mitsu glasses tend to have a slight blue tint, whereas the Estar glasses tend to have a slight yellow tint compared to the image when no glasses are worn. Watching the image with no glasses obviously provides the brightest, most color accurate image, but that's not very fun.

Due to the yellow tint of the Estar glasses the image can appear slightly brighter compared to the Mitsu glasses. The animation colors appears more vivid too. Skin tones seemed the most natural on the Estar glasses also. On the other hand, the color of the sky and water looked more realistic and accurate in the Grand Canyon film. My verdict is that both glasses provide a slight tint. The mitsu glasses look better for blue and green colors and the Estar look better for yellows and reds . . . a simple matter of color filtering really. I would call it a tie, or a very slight edge to the Estar if only because the color shift provides some perceived brightness to the 3D image.

Overall:
With the performance of the two essentially being a tie, the Estar glasses are the clear winner since they are lighter, more comfortable, contain larger lenses, are rechargeable and use RF rather than IR reducing interference with remotes.

If you have any questions or want me to test the cross talk further, let me know.
post #332 of 349
Recently figured out that the loud fan noise was related to using the 3-D settings for all movies. Quite a relief, improvement when I put to the regular settings for a Blu-ray.

I was told there is a specific setting for the "normal" or "eco-" mode? Anyone know about bulb settings or how to modify?
post #333 of 349
Anyone know how to get to bulb settings and if there is an Eco mode?
post #334 of 349
Quote:
Originally Posted by nystad View Post

Anyone know how to get to bulb settings and if there is an Eco mode?

I'm not in front of my projector, but if you bring up the menu and select the second menu to the right (installation?) There is lamp mode (second one down?). There are two settings: low and standard. Low would be your econo mode equivalent. My projector tends to default to this, so I have to manually select standard for 3D. I haven't played with setting different lamp modes for the 3 presets, as I like mine defaulting to low mode as it did for me out of the box.
post #335 of 349
Thanks. Do you know if standard mode is "louder", has more fan noise? I did notice 3D setting had a much nicer picture but was also twice as noisy. Right now I simply put into cinema mode and it's fine w respect to noise level but still don't know about bulb setting...maybe I can get a better picture still w/o sacrificing for noise?
post #336 of 349
Quote:
Originally Posted by nystad View Post

Thanks. Do you know if standard mode is "louder", has more fan noise? I did notice 3D setting had a much nicer picture but was also twice as noisy. Right now I simply put into cinema mode and it's fine w respect to noise level but still don't know about bulb setting...maybe I can get a better picture still w/o sacrificing for noise?

hmm, im not sure. I've never had noise issues in any mode including 3D, maybe since its mounted behind me I don't notice. I'll try and listen for it tonight, and let you know.

When you say you have a nicer picture, do you mean brightness? I find the 3D gamma setting to be not the best colors for skin tones. I only use it in 3D to boost the brightness, not in 2D. But for me 3D gamma and standard lamp are needed for the best 3D.
post #337 of 349
I'm probably sensitive to the noise since unit is mounted directly above my head about 4' from sitting position.

I am probably referring simply to brightness and not necessarily optimum picture but to my unprofessional eye, 3d mode still more desire able.
post #338 of 349
SOS Help SOS

The 78000d is my first PJ.

I have a 2.35:1 screen and have set the PJ to this in the Image menu and to Auto in the feature menu.

Since I got it about 3 weeks ago , it has been superb changing from Scope when the image just went to the edge of the screen's masking and to 16: 9 with the same image height, with the press of a button. Really happy.

Then a few days ago, I just turned it on and suddenly the image was overscanning, overshooting the entire screen. This was both for Scope and 16:9 and became even more obvious when I projected a standard grid pattern.

I presume that somehow it is in Zoom 1 or 2 mode.

Problem is whenever I go to Feature menu and bring up Aspect the only choices I am given are only Auto and 16:9.

Nothing I have tried gives me access to Zoom 1 and 2 or even 4:3
.
So please, can some kind person out there, tell me how to access these modes. I feel I am going insane!!
post #339 of 349
Quote:
Originally Posted by fgrosell View Post

Yes i did, go to this link and translate .
http://www.cine4home.de/tests/projektoren/Mitsubishi_HC7800/Brillen/HC7800%20Brillen.htm.
Good look

How do you translate this to English??
post #340 of 349
Hello all,

I would like to post my satisfaction with the custom cable WichitaT made for me. With that cable, I can run both my Mits and Estar 3D glasses at the same time. By using CoryW's settings, the image from the Estar glasses is just about as good as you get from the Mits glasses (IMHO.) Am I the only one who had difficulty setting up the Estar emitter? Using their instructions and utility, I somehow put myself into upgrade mode and couldn't get out. Until I lucked into the solution and could then adjust and save the settings. Regarding an English translation for the cine4home page, right click on the page and you should see a translation (Bing) option.

Bruce
post #341 of 349
I noticed that the loud (33db?) fan levels are equal to my ear both in the 3D setting and also when bulb setting is put into "standard" mode vs the low mode. Not sure if this is useful to anyone else, but had been a question of mine while back. I simply leave on the low mode which is so much more pleasant since I don't notice the subtle fan sound now.
post #342 of 349
I've had this projector now for over one year. Have had no issues other than of my own error. Out of nowhere (I'm pretty sure vs. something I inadvertently did) I noticed now that both blue rays and television is now "clipped" on top and bottom so its essentially a vertically shortened picture. does fill across horizontally and otherwise looks normal. I first noticed watching blue rays that normally fill the entire 105" screen and then basketball games that clip the score, etc. Nothing looks "stretched" though. I'm asumming this must be easy fix somewhere in picture settings but I cannot for the life of me find the correction. Anyone able to help?

thanks!
post #343 of 349
Quote:
Originally Posted by nystad View Post

I've had this projector now for over one year. Have had no issues other than of my own error. Out of nowhere (I'm pretty sure vs. something I inadvertently did) I noticed now that both blue rays and television is now "clipped" on top and bottom so its essentially a vertically shortened picture. does fill across horizontally and otherwise looks normal. I first noticed watching blue rays that normally fill the entire 105" screen and then basketball games that clip the score, etc. Nothing looks "stretched" though. I'm asumming this must be easy fix somewhere in picture settings but I cannot for the life of me find the correction. Anyone able to help?

thanks!

I'm guessing you hit the 'ASPECT' button on the remote. Mine's not on right now, but I believe mine is set to Auto.
post #344 of 349
Quote:
Originally Posted by nystad View Post

I noticed that the loud (33db?) fan levels are equal to my ear both in the 3D setting and also when bulb setting is put into "standard" mode vs the low mode. Not sure if this is useful to anyone else, but had been a question of mine while back. I simply leave on the low mode which is so much more pleasant since I don't notice the subtle fan sound now.

If your theater room has controlled light level you should be able to do just fine in low mode. You will also get longer bulb life. The lamp is run at a higher power level in 3D or standard mode to make the image brighter to respectively compensate for 3D glasses tinting or high ambient light levels.
post #345 of 349
Quote:
Originally Posted by jvh4 View Post

I started noticing this issue. At times for like 2 seconds. The picture gets really choppy. It seemed like it happened on every puck drop during the hockey playoffs. I started noticing the choppiness or some panning shots and slow motion. This only happens watching cable. Blue rays and streaming are perfect. Comcast denies any fault. Any ideas?

hello there .. i got th same proplem u descripe here .. did u fix it ?
post #346 of 349
Is there anyone making the custom dual IR/RF cables that WichitaT and mstarks3d had? I've been trying to track one down but have had no luck so far.

Thanks!
- Berbs
post #347 of 349
Quote:
Originally Posted by JustmeF View Post


I tested the glasses,
the blue fringing is Crosstalk,

the solution is simply to connect the glasses to a computer,
adjust the bottom slider about 40 clicks to the left, and voila... no more crosstalk.
Leave the top slider as it is

just put a movie at pause and adjust the slider til the picture looks good.

btw. putting the sync at reverse, helped with my problem :-)

My current setting is 

on 7800D: 3D sync: Reverse

X104 - 3D Sync protocol: LG

Close Delay: -40

 

I'm still having good amount of blue ghosting (crosstalk). I've tried adjusting the open delay & close delay, but the crosstalk still exists. can someone help me with their settings. 

post #348 of 349
Hi,
do you see any diffrence when adjusting the settings?


it is also very important not to use the auto recognise mode when turning on the glasses.




JustmeF
post #349 of 349

Yes the size & position of the ghost image changes as I change the opening & closing shutter delay.

I've set the closing delay as -40 as you suggested in the forum, but crosstalk still exist.

I've tried diff settings. but not able to get rid of it completely.

 

Btw my sync protocol is set to LG & set to reverse. Even auto setting recognize as LG.

Samsung/Mitsubishi & Panasonic doesn't seems to be working

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