More Flat Pack Kits Coming. - Page 7

You could do pretty decent down to about 30hz with a single sealed 15, even in a room that size. Ported would definitely work better though.

Yeah Erich, we want the 3.5 for 15's. Pretty please?! Anybody else want the 3.5? Let Erich know, and maybe he'll do it.

Erich, it just occurred to me.....The 3.5 could also be offered as a dual-opposed for two 12's, couldn't it? Cut baffles for both ends, and voila! The narrow 18" width would be great for the 12" driver (less space between the edge of the driver's mounting flange and the edge of the baffle, making for a stiffer mounting surface), and isn't the internal volume of a 3.5 real good for opposing 12's? Just a thought. Yeah, like you need more requests!
Edited by BDP24 - 2/25/13 at 10:15am

Hi Erich,

You're doing such an awesome job for the DIY community.

On your site, the 1.5 cu/ft subwoofer box has a baffle cut for the 10" Titanic. In the description you asked if anyone had suggestions for other baffle cuts.

I'd love to get that box with a cutout for the Dayton RSS315HF 12". A PE tech said 1.5 is an ideal box size for this driver.

I'm assuming the RSHF will get down lower than the 10" Titanic--but correct me if I'm wrong.

Thanks!
DAn

How large do you have the outside diameter cut to on that? I am curious what other 12's will fit in there. The Infinity 1260w would work well in the 15.5" cube. Infinity says the outside diameter is 12.375", and PE lists the Dayton at 12.36". I can't imagine that 15/100's of an inch would matter. I guess a touch of sanding could make it fit if nothing else.
Edited by brianjb - 2/28/13 at 6:04pm

Got my flats today!!

Thanks Erich! Awesomely packed! So far everything looks great! Now just have to wait for 3 more months for the SI drivers to be shipped!

Do you need any of this packing material back? Hate to just throw it away when you could probably reuse it.

Urlryn

Anyone know what the depth size is for the 1cu ft box? Would the CSS SDX12 be too deep 8.75"

I don't know how large that brace is at the back, but without the brace you only have 3.125" of clearance. You want some space behind the back of the driver to allow the vent to dissipate heat. It seems to me that a 1ft^3 box might be a little tight even if the driver will physically fit in the box. IMO, you are better off with the 1.5 box.

After looking at the 1ft^3 box it does look like it would be a tight fit. I emailed CSS last weeking asking what sized sealed box and power would work for the SDX12 in car audio setup:
Hi,
Thanks for the inquiry. We haven't released the final specs yet but here's a preliminary model for the SDX12 sealed:
First, sealed – The woofer isn’t optimized for sealed in a home setting, but will work. Mounted in a 1 cu ft enclosure it has a Qtc of .66 and an F3 of 32 Hz. The F10 is 19.8 Hz, so with room gain, and with music, it could make a very nice small sealed subwoofer. However, if you put it in a car in this size box, the cabin gain of a vehicle could make it flat to sub 20Hz range. Could be a very powerful car sub if someone wants flat response instead of that boomy stuff you hear these days.

Hi, Erich. When you get a chance, I sent you a PM and a couple messages on your website using the 'Contact Us' feature. I just want to make sure I obtain 2 of the 4 cu ft flat packs for the SI subwoofer. Thanks.

Will any of the boxes work with the SI 15" sub?

The 3 cu ft will, I got mine last Sat.


Sent from my 32GB iPhone4 using Tapatalk

The 3 cu.ft. would be best with about 700 watts of power. Choose the option for the Dayton Titanic. It shares the same cutout diameter as the SI-15. If you have room, you could go larger and use less power. If you don't have a lot of room you could go as small as the 2.25cu.ft. and ask Erich if he can cut you a larger baffle, but you would need to increase the power to 1000w.

Great info to know - thanks!

Erich, I sent you a PM earlier this week - did you remember to ship my driver? thanks.

Erich, one of the terminals got stripped, can you send me another pair along with the SI driver? Sorry to send multiple messages but I'm finishing up on the last 4 boxes and desperately need the driver and another terminal.

thanks!

Erich...received my two 4 cu ft flat packs. No problems with shipping. All in good shape.
Perhaps a piece of tape over the ziploc with the terminals to keep it from sliding all over inside the big box with future shipments?

Thanks for providing this AIY opportunity. It appears you are fast becoming the IKEA of the DIY speaker/sub community!

did you say sealed dual opp 15???

It wasn't over tightening Erich, and it was my fault if anyones! I drill a 1/4 inch hole and then tighten a nut on the inside to pull the knurled part into the box and seat it. It's way way easier than the hammering nonsense I saw in a lot of the comments on the PE site, at least in MDF. I'm not sure what happened with this one (bad component, pressure somewhere I wasn't aware of, who knows) but turning the nut actually completely removed some of the threads in the middle of the post so there was a threadless section and thus, no more screwy tighty. Anyways, it's certainly the first time I've seen anything like that in doing 8 pairs of them now.

Carp, I bought a couple pairs of these from Erich when I got my flat packs. I ended up using speakons instead though so if that's what you need, I'll throw a pair in the mail to you. If so, PM me with your address and I should be able to swing by the post office tomorrow.

Erich, I have a TC Epic12 driver and a Dayton 500 watt plate amp, I would like to do a sealed box. Do you have a box for this combo? Let me know, I would like to order one if you do. Thanks
Mario

I used the 2.25 cu foot box for my epic 12 build. I just mentioned it to him before I ordered and he cut the baffle to the right size for me.
Edited by Rebel975 - 3/12/13 at 5:33pm

Thanks Rebel, did you use a plate amp in the box?

I vote EricH and his DIY Sound Group "AVS Lifetime Achievement Award" winners!

Took me 10 minutes to un-pack and get my 3 cu ft sub box dry fit and tape together.
Tomorrow I'll glue/tape and use 8 clamps to hold it together - just to go w/o brad nails, my thinking is this:
step 1: bottom, glue where braces go
step 2: install braces to bottom
step 3: glue on braces edge to side panels edge, glue on bottom to side edges,
step 4a, 4b, 4c, 4d glue on each side, install, repeat for other 3 sides
step 5: tape box together w/o lower front baffle on
step 6: use 8 2 ft clamps, lightly clamp box
step 7: apply glue to sides where lower front baffle fits
step 8: install lower front baffle , secure with tape, adj clamps as needed
step 9: put weights on lower front baffle to force good fit all 4 sides to bottom and top
>>At this point only the top finish baffle is not glued, let dry overnight
step 10: glue top finish baffle to lower front baffle, tape in place, weights on top

That's the easiest way to make a box!
Great Engineering job DIY Sound Group team.
Lot's of surface area for good glue joints.

Picts of tonight's dry fit
10 minutes to do this
.
Double top baffle plates removed to show nice fit inside

With the other clamps this is about what it should look like after step 9 - with weights there to ensure nice fit all 4 sides to bottom and top


As I type realize need to add screw mtg scheme for 15" driver & Binding posts, I'll add those step's to the above .....

No, I am using a NU3000DSP. I've been happy with the Epic12, but this website is making me wonder what 4 x 18" subs would be like. Unfortunately (or fortunately?), I can't afford it.

Very cool, thanks so much for the offer. I did order a pair from parts express that already shipped today so I'm good but I really appreciate the fact that you would have been willing to do that.

Erich,
Tried to leave you some great feedback this morning on your site about the 4 cu ft flat packs I received.
Sent you a message via your contact fields on your site telling you that I did not see any sub-woofer flat packs page on your site anymore???

Send me a PM if you'd like.