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More Flat Pack Kits Coming. - Page 15

post #421 of 951
Does anybody besides me need a 2.5 flat pack for the Cheap Thrill? (Celestion 15" buyout from PE) If you are, let Erich know.

I'm hoping if enough of us are interested Erich can justify putting enough time and energy into producing that kit. smile.gif
post #422 of 951
Erich H,

Any plans of making a box for front dual 15" subs? Such as the PSA-XV30F.
post #423 of 951
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

Guys, are there any other subwoofer boxes we should look into? Or any other woofers for the 4 cuft boxes?


I know you have the 3cf flatpack for the Ultimax 15, but I've seen models where 4cf looks better. Unless it's just a matter of how much power was applied in the model?

I would be interested in a baffle cutout for the Ultimax 15 in the 4cf size, & I also like the mention of a dual 15" flatpack.
post #424 of 951
I've got the itch to build again. Would love to put together a cheap thrill and try my hand at the crossover myself, but I would definitely need a flat pack box.

I could compare it to my td12x towers. The towers reach much lower and handle way more power, but it would be nice to see just how close they sound crossed over (I always use double bass with the td12x).

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2
post #425 of 951
+1 for the 2.5 ft^3 flat pack. PLEASE !!
post #426 of 951
Just bought the Cheap Thrill kits X3. I would buy flat packs for them.

Willie
post #427 of 951
Thread Starter 
I'll go ahead and get some prices for the 2.5 cuft flat packs for the Cheap Thrills. The problem is that they don't lay out nearly as good on a sheet of MDF, so they would be more expensive than the 2 cuft Fusion-12 boxes. Those are 14.5" wide, so 3 panels fit side by side on a 4' wide sheet of wood. But the Cheap Thrills are about 17.5" wide.....plus the 1/2" route bit going around the edges. Basically there's left over wood that can't be used. When that happens, they charge for the full sheet of wood. So my guess is that the price will be up around $80. Then tack on shipping. The good deal on the Cheap Thrills just increased $100 per speaker when you add in the box. Granted it's still a decent deal, but not quite the same.
post #428 of 951
Hi Erich,

Takes some of the 'cheapness' out of the deal, but for me the value of my time makes it worth it. Flat pack at $100 brings it in about $100 less than the Fusion 12 x 3. I am in if you can do it.

Wille
Edited by Willie - 6/30/13 at 7:15pm
post #429 of 951
Hey Erich,

Just curious, does the ~$80 comprise one sheet of MDF plus machining, or two sheets plus machining?

Any chance the leftovers could be used for other flat packs or split between several kits as internal bracing to offset the price ?? My quick doodles show the whole kit, including baffle, underlying front panel, internal bracing (two horizontal and one vertical) plus 1/2" cut allowance can be cut from a single 48"x96" (after .5" is trimmed off the edges of a 49"x97" sheet) sheet of MDF . I was able to achieve this by overlapping the sawtooth portions of the internal bracing.

If necessary, some of the internal braces could be cut smaller or even cut in half to facilitate fitting all the parts onto a single piece of MDF. After all, once the glue dries, the joint is stronger than the MDF. I'm sure most of us would consider an extra step or two in the assembly a fair tradeoff for a $30-$40 cost savings to get everything to fit on a single sheet. Alternatively, leave out the vertical brace from the flat pack and just go with two horizontals. The emphasis here is on "Cheap Thrills"... Maybe include a drawing in the plans to cut our own vertical brace for those that want to buy a small chunk of MDF at the local hardware store and make a few cuts.

Thanks for listening, oh, and sign me up for 3 flat packs when they are ready.

Mike
post #430 of 951
Thread Starter 
I'm sure the whole flat pack can fit on one sheet. I'm just saying that they would be more expensive than the 2 cuft Fusion-12 box, so the 'cheap' part is then in jeopardy. smile.gif

There probably won't be much usable wood left over on the sheet of mdf for other baffles or anything like that. I'll work with the design in the next couple days, it won't take me too long. As for pricing, I'm just guessing how much they might cost.
post #431 of 951
I'd probably be in for 3~9 of the flat packs for the cheap trill if available!!!
post #432 of 951
Thread Starter 
I'll go ahead and get a flat pack design going for the larger SEOS boxes that use the 15" woofers. I think we can also use the same flat pack for the 15" sealed JBL design that MTG90 did last year.
post #433 of 951
Thank you for all your effort, Erich!

It's guys like you and all the speaker designers who have contributed their time designing waveguides, speakers and crossovers that have spawned a new era in home theater DIY. You guys rock!!

Thanks again,
Mike
post #434 of 951
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhutchins View Post

Thank you for all your effort, Erich!

It's guys like you and all the speaker designers who have contributed their time designing waveguides, speakers and crossovers that have spawned a new era in home theater DIY. You guys rock!!

Thanks again,
Mike

Completely agree!!!
post #435 of 951
FYI, the celestion buyout was supposed to end 6/30/13, but I still see them for $50 on parts express. Sigh, another cheap thrill might be coming my way. I would likely be down for a flat pack as well. My first pair was "interesting" having no table saw. I like the results, but it was a pretty absurd amount of effort needed.
post #436 of 951
Quote:
Originally Posted by hardvark View Post

I'd probably be in for 3~9 of the flat packs for the cheap trill if available!!!

Me first! wink.gif

I need two flat packs, ASAP, because I can't build it myself, and I haven't been able to find anyone local who can make them (we live in a small town).

My son is an Airman in the US Air Force, and he is leaving for Germany soon, and he will be gone for two years. We are expecting him home within the week.

I want to put these speakers together WITH him, and they will belong to him when he finally gets settled someplace. I will leave them unfinished for now, then I want to put the USAF logo on the side somehow. I'm hoping that years from now, he can think of dad when he is listening to the speakers.

Here are a couple of the images I would like to use, if possible.



I want to use the left-side image (obverse) of the coin.


Edited by wvu80 - 7/2/13 at 4:35pm
post #437 of 951
Quote:
Originally Posted by wvu80 View Post

Does anybody besides me need a 2.5 flat pack for the Cheap Thrill? (Celestion 15" buyout from PE) If you are, let Erich know.

I'm hoping if enough of us are interested Erich can justify putting enough time and energy into producing that kit. smile.gif

I'd probably go for 2-3 for sure. I know the baffle dimension, what's the box depth?
post #438 of 951
Quote:
Originally Posted by nfraso View Post

I'd probably go for 2-3 for sure. I know the baffle dimension, what's the box depth?

17.25" wide, 26" tall, and 16" deep.

http://www.diysoundgroup.com/waveguide-speaker-kits/other/bwaslo-15-kit.html
post #439 of 951
Quote:
Originally Posted by wvu80 View Post

17.25" wide, 26" tall, and 16" deep.

http://www.diysoundgroup.com/waveguide-speaker-kits/other/bwaslo-15-kit.html

Good stuff thanks- I saw 14" in the specs there as well, must be leftover from something else.
post #440 of 951
My son just called from Fort Lee, he will be here Monday! smile.gif

Erich, I'll send you a PM (or email, whatever works best), to see where we are with my parts order, and to see about that flat pack. I really need to get something ASAP, before the moment is lost.
+++

Aside: The DIY Soundgroup website references some 2.5 flat packs in some of the parts kits, but I've never seen it offered for sale in the short time I've been on the DIY website. Did this product used to exist? Just wondering.
post #441 of 951
Thread Starter 
How much time do you have to get the flat packs?

It takes a little while for me to design them properly and get things cut. I'll try to pull some favors, but I need some kind of time line.
post #442 of 951
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

How much time do you have to get the flat packs?

It takes a little while for me to design them properly and get things cut. I'll try to pull some favors, but I need some kind of time line.
Can the flatpacks be ordered as BB instead of mdf? Are you offering pre-assembled crossovers yet? I was going to pm you but I figured this would be better in case others wanted to know too.
post #443 of 951
for those that had the SI 18's....

What size/type of screw/bolt did you guys use?

I went out and got the black socket head screws - 10-32 1-1/4 and the length looked about right but the head on the screw was to big for the gasket on the SI.
So then went down to the 8-32 1-1/4 and perfect fit for the gasket but when i took off the gasket the head went through the actual speaker mounting hole...ugh!

And Let me tell ya about the adventure going back and forth to exchange or to just to find 16x screws and 16x t nut to match. 3 lowes and 4 home depots!

Well hopefully tomorrow I'll return all those...find the next size up and then start attempting to drill perfect mounting holes for the speakers. lol

Also when applying the duratex.....do you do the bottom first generally or there a easier way? hehe
Do first coat....clean the roller.....wait for it to dry.
Apply second coat...clean roller....wait for it to dry
Flip
Do the top and sides...clean roller.....wait for it to dry
Do second coat...clean roller...wait for it to dry

I used the ultra smooth roller and it took a little to get the hang of how much pressure and stuff to avoid roller lines and stuff..but still a pain.
Think i might try a 1/4 nap roller for second coat.


Urlryn
post #444 of 951
No need to clean the roller each time. Just put it in a plastic bag.
post #445 of 951
Quote:
Originally Posted by Max Phan View Post

No need to clean the roller each time. Just put it in a plastic bag.

+1
I like to saturate the whole roller with paint and wrap tightly with saran wrap. It works!
post #446 of 951
Quote:
Originally Posted by Urlryn View Post

for those that had the SI 18's....

What size/type of screw/bolt did you guys use?

I went out and got the black socket head screws - 10-32 1-1/4 and the length looked about right but the head on the screw was to big for the gasket on the SI.
So then went down to the 8-32 1-1/4 and perfect fit for the gasket but when i took off the gasket the head went through the actual speaker mounting hole...ugh!

And Let me tell ya about the adventure going back and forth to exchange or to just to find 16x screws and 16x t nut to match. 3 lowes and 4 home depots!

Well hopefully tomorrow I'll return all those...find the next size up and then start attempting to drill perfect mounting holes for the speakers. lol

Also when applying the duratex.....do you do the bottom first generally or there a easier way? hehe
Do first coat....clean the roller.....wait for it to dry.
Apply second coat...clean roller....wait for it to dry
Flip
Do the top and sides...clean roller.....wait for it to dry
Do second coat...clean roller...wait for it to dry

I used the ultra smooth roller and it took a little to get the hang of how much pressure and stuff to avoid roller lines and stuff..but still a pain.
Think i might try a 1/4 nap roller for second coat.


Urlryn

If anyone needs a set of 16 alloy steel black oil socket cap head bolts in 10/32 X 1-1/2" (from Bolt Depot), with matching 20mm long threaded inserts w/ flanges (from E-Z Lok) and #10 alloy steel black oil high collar lock washers (Bolt Depot), email me and I'll send them to you. My drivers ended up needing 8/32 bolts, damnit. Just pay USPS shipping in one of their flat fee small boxes (I think it's $5.25 anywhere in the Continental U.S., but just send me a $5 bill). 1st emailer gets 'em!
Edited by BDP24 - 7/5/13 at 1:43pm
post #447 of 951
Can someone look at my Fusion-8 crossovers before I solder them? Thanks!

post #448 of 951
Man, you guys weren't kidding when you said that a gal of duratex can go along ways! I think I've used MAYBE a third of it for 2x 4cuft boxes. That was a generous thick coat on the first...and a lighter coat for the second coat.

Never even dawned on me to do either of those tricks! Thanks for the tip!

I removed part of this post to create a new thread instead of taking this one off coarse! smile.gif

Urlryn
Edited by Urlryn - 7/6/13 at 4:52pm
post #449 of 951
With these flat packs....what do you guys recommended to get accurate spots to drill the mounting holes for your speaker?

I tried using the rubber gasket that comes with the SI and i could never get accurate drill spots. They were always off one way or another.
I put on the zip ties, rubber gasket to try and mark them that way but zip ties get in the way! ugh.


And since i didn't get any answers on my other thread I'm going to re-ask here.

Polyfill - do you need to keep it away from the binding posts where you twist/clip/solder your speaker wire...if so what do you typically use? more netting?

Thanks
Urlryn
post #450 of 951
Quote:
Originally Posted by Urlryn View Post

With these flat packs....what do you guys recommended to get accurate spots to drill the mounting holes for your speaker?

I tried using the rubber gasket that comes with the SI and i could never get accurate drill spots. They were always off one way or another.
I put on the zip ties, rubber gasket to try and mark them that way but zip ties get in the way! ugh.


And since i didn't get any answers on my other thread I'm going to re-ask here.

Polyfill - do you need to keep it away from the binding posts where you twist/clip/solder your speaker wire...if so what do you typically use? more netting?

Thanks
Urlryn

I did the Dayton 18" build and had no issues with drilling the holes. I put the zip ties on the woofer, put the woofer in the box, and then used a pencil to mark the holes. I then pulled the woofer and drilled the holes.

For polyfill, I was told it wasn't needed for Erich's sealed flat packs. I didn't use any and my subs should great. I did use polyfill in my fusion-8's. I was not careful as to where I put it. I just stuffed the box loosely and called it good. I did not use netting.
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