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More Flat Pack Kits Coming. - Page 16

post #451 of 956
Can foam padding be use rather than polyfill? Or is polyfill better?
post #452 of 956
Check out some of the build threads. Some guys use foam padding. I used the polyfill because my wife bought me 10 pillows from Walmart for $2 each.
post #453 of 956
Quote:
Originally Posted by sslv2pwned View Post

I did the Dayton 18" build and had no issues with drilling the holes. I put the zip ties on the woofer, put the woofer in the box, and then used a pencil to mark the holes. I then pulled the woofer and drilled the holes.

For polyfill, I was told it wasn't needed for Erich's sealed flat packs. I didn't use any and my subs should great. I did use polyfill in my fusion-8's. I was not careful as to where I put it. I just stuffed the box loosely and called it good. I did not use netting.

ohhhh....didn't know that. I found a 10pound box for like 18 dollars at walmart not long ago and grabbed it. That was cheaper to buy that than all the 3.49 pillows (being the cheapest i could find) for both subs. Guess i'll be stuffing that box and taking it back to walmart hehe! smile.gif

All I'm waiting for now is my speaker wire....realized i only had 16gauge (and very little at that) left. So order some 12 gauge....should be here friday so i can finish this weekend.

Thanks for the response sslv2pwned!

Urlryn
post #454 of 956
Hey guys, got my 3 cu ft sub flat pack. When pitting the sides and bottom, does it matter where they go in terms of which side or anything? I know the same pieces have to be across from each other, but does it matter whihc part is the side or top?

Thanks!
post #455 of 956
If I understand your question correctly- Yes, it matters. The sides can only go on in one direction in order to allow the inner baffle to have a spot to fit in and be flush with them.
post #456 of 956
Correct, i know that the sides are longer on one side than the other. What i am referring to is does it matter where the actual sides go?
post #457 of 956
Thread Starter 
The brace with the large hole cut out is the horizontal brace. The 'I' shaped brace is the vertical one. The top and bottom have no rabbet joints. The sides have rabbet joints.

This PDF might help:

Square sub Assembly Instructions.pdf 199k .pdf file
post #458 of 956
I don't know what I did wrong, but the corners didn't line up with the one I built. They are off. I don't know if the wood warped or something. Is that even possible?

I will try and take some pics to show. Looks like it is still sealed, but it doesn't line up.
post #459 of 956
Thread Starter 
If something doesn't line up, it's normally the way it was glued up or clamped too hard. The mdf panels that small wouldn't be warped.

Some guys clamp things too hard or in the wrong places and that will pull panels in too far or something like that. But the box design does take that into account. So when gluing up the side panels, you can pull the corners out a little, or push them in to line up with the top and bottom. Once lined up, you would need to clamp them in place, or shoot a brad nail in to hold it so it doesn't try to shift back.
post #460 of 956
Ahhh, too late. I already glued it all together. No getting it out now. Lol.

I don't think I actually clamped it too hard, but I guess it is possible. It should still be sealed, right? I am going to put PL Premium on the inner seals just to make sure it is properly sealed. Better safe then sorry I guess.

Like I said, I will take some pics tonight and try to upload them.
post #461 of 956
Ok. How do i post pics? Doing it from my phone.
post #462 of 956


Not sure if you can from a phone?
post #463 of 956
Erich,
I intend to build one of these SEOS kits as soon as the weather cools off. Not sure which one . I don't really "need" anything. I just love what you have put together with these kit/flat pack combos. Just a thought. I would love to see kit/flat pack combo something like a Fusion 10/max MTM. Just like the Fusion 8 MTM, but with the improved CD, better sensitivity, and a thinner profile than one of the 12" or 15" designs.


I have a feeling that this kit in particular would be quite popular with all the folks eying the JTR products. Especially with a flat pack available. Possible JTR like performance and design @ less than half the cost? What do you think? rolleyes.gif

Allan
post #464 of 956
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1 View Post



Not sure if you can from a phone?

Thanks. Here they are:











Do you think the box I still sealed properly? Like I said, I don't know what I did wrong. I didn't over tighten or anything. At least I am pretty sure i didn't.

Oh and be gentle. This is my first time. I am a sub box building virgin. tongue.giffrown.gif
post #465 of 956

Wow, that looks pretty bad lol sorry. I would use LOTS of bondo in the gaps then pl premium the inside corners.

post #466 of 956
Seriously? That bad? What's bondo and how do I use it?? You think it's still sealed though?

What did I do wrong?? I have 3 more to build and would like to avoid this.

Also you can't see it in the pic but the other end is flush. So it is only the corners shown and not the whole piece. That's why I thought it was warped.
post #467 of 956
http://www.amazon.com/Bondo-310-Autobody-Filler-Pint/dp/B0007ZG9UI/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1373936561&sr=1-2&keywords=bondo

Spread it smoothly to bring the uneven surfaces flush. You will have to sand and re apply the bondo multiple times...

No clue what you did wrong, never built one of Eric's flat packs?
post #468 of 956
Quote:
Originally Posted by 04rex View Post

Seriously? That bad? What's bondo and how do I use it?? You think it's still sealed though?

What did I do wrong?? I have 3 more to build and would like to avoid this.

Also you can't see it in the pic but the other end is flush. So it is only the corners shown and not the whole piece. That's why I thought it was warped.

 

Its pretty bad considering every piece should fit perfectly. Bondo is a 2 part epoxy usually used for repairing holes or dents in cars. It takes a little practice to get right but it works really well. Did you dry fit the panels to make sure everything lined up before gluing?

post #469 of 956
I did. That's the thing.

Isn't bondo only for cars?

Any way to test if it is perfectly sealed?
post #470 of 956
you can use bondo for pretty much anything
post #471 of 956
Its not the best...but not un-fixable.
From the picture it Looks like you may have clamped that top side pretty good and then the bottom side stuck out a bit while it was being glued....but thats just a guess since can't see the whole sides.

Everything should fit spot on....
Like Mrkazador said....dry fit them first. Use your clamps and make sure everything fits spot on.

I just built 2 myself (i'm a IT guy..not a tree worker!) and looking at the diagrams on Erich site showing which pieces to do in order helped a lot.
Then looking other people build threads, like Sibuna and others, helped too.

Urlryn
post #472 of 956
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sibuna View Post

you can use bondo for pretty much anything

 

Yep.

There are some epoxies that are like Bondo but are made for wood, I don't know what the differences are. All I know is Bondo works great on wood.

post #473 of 956
I saw one suggestion is to use a shop vac and go along the seams with it...blowing air to see if you can feel anything.


Not sure how well that works or not...lol

Urlryn
post #474 of 956
Dang, I feel like a fool. Just my luck lol. First person to have issues building the box. Lol.

Anyways, how do you use bondo exactly? I assume I can paint it after with duratex as I was planning?
post #475 of 956
next time glue one side at a time
post #476 of 956
Quote:
Originally Posted by 04rex View Post

Anyways, how do you use bondo exactly? I assume I can paint it after with duratex as I was planning?

 

You can find tons of videos on youtube on how to use Bondo. Basically you mix a small amount of the hardener with the epoxy then apply. You can try different amounts of hardener, adding more will decrease curing time so it can be rock hard in a few mins or add a little less hardener to give you some time. You're going to want to practice a bit just so you get the hang of adding the right amount of hardener.

 

It also sands nicely and can be painted.

post #477 of 956
It looks like the wonky panel isn't fully seated into the rabbet of the back panel (the bottom in the photo).

The long brace may be protruding from the rabbet of the back panel and the wonky panel rocked.

It's crooked, simple as that, so seal the seams and hide that side.

Bondo will fill the low, but you've job ahead if you're going to knock down that protrusion. Might be worth taking it down to a mill and have them plane it.

Just make sure you seal the interior seams. And, if you use the wonky side face down, it'll prolly wobble (unless you have it planed).

Nah, I'd leave it and just call it "character".
post #478 of 956
To be honest, it does bother me a bit, but as long as it is sealed, I am fine with it. Once painted and put in the basement and beside the other equipment, it won't be noticeable. As long as it is sealed.

When applying PL Premium on the inner seams, what's the best way to apply it? Do I have to wait a certain amount of time or do anything besides applying it? Once I apply it with the caulking gun, should I run my finger or cloth or something along the seam to smooth it out like with caulking?
post #479 of 956
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 04rex View Post

Thanks. Here they are:





You're right, that wasn't due to over clamping. On that first photo above, it shows the side not matching up with the bottom panel. When you glued that side piece on, you should have pulled that bottom out a bit so that everything lined up flush. Even if you glued that bottom on slightly crooked, you could have pulled it out to match it up. That was one reason I made sure it could be shifted a little bit.....in case things weren't glued perfectly. wink.gif

Someone asked why I didn't put a rabbet joint on those side panels so the top and bottom would line up in the joints. Doing that means the top and bottom need to be 1/2" wider (.25" to fit inside the rabbet joint). Making it wider means you can no longer easily line it up when gluing them to the rear panel. There must be some parts of the box that can be shifted to allow for human error.

The second photo shows that you overlooked the panel not lining up before the glue dried.

I know the boxes look like regular ole boxes. But there were many designs done to make sure that even though you made some slight mistakes, the box still goes together and seals up just fine.


The main thing is to make sure you put glue everywhere 2 pieces of wood touch. Dry fit each piece as you go, use a marker to mark where you need glue, that way you won't miss it. Do one piece at a time so you don't feel rushed.
Edited by Erich H - 7/15/13 at 7:59pm
post #480 of 956
Quote:
Originally Posted by 04rex View Post

Dang, I feel like a fool. Just my luck lol. First person to have issues building the box. Lol.

Anyways, how do you use Bondo exactly? I assume I can paint it after with duratex as I was planning?

Quick answer on the Bondo is read the instructions on the side of the can. ;-)

The product is composed of resin with mineral filler in the can, and squeeze tube of hardener. Mix in indicated proportions. Critical part is thoroughly mixing harder and resin.

Dab onto surface to be built up with putty knife or plastic spatula.

Wait for it to harden.

File and sand to finish.

Takes paint very nicely.
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