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More Flat Pack Kits Coming. - Page 18

post #511 of 956
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

A 4cu ft box for 15" woofers is done. Basically the same box for the 18", just cut for a 15" woofer. They'll fit the Ultimax and Reference Series, or most models that don't have that big gasket on the outside frame.


I'm still waiting for the 18" ported/18" dual opposed, but I'd really like to get them done. One issue is cost to get 40 of them done.

Alphaiii, I'll have to see how many of the Overnight Sensations I have that aren't wrapped up. I did take some up to PE last week, so I'm not sure how many I still have.

Can we pre-order the dual opposed 18's to help with the cost?
post #512 of 956
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

Alphaiii, I'll have to see how many of the Overnight Sensations I have that aren't wrapped up. I did take some up to PE last week, so I'm not sure how many I still have.

Erich, any chance you'd been able to check on this?
post #513 of 956
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

I do have the design for the dual opposed, they just haven't been cut yet.

Hey Erich, how are we looking on the dual-opposed 15 packs?
post #514 of 956
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shan87 View Post

Can we pre-order the dual opposed 18's to help with the cost?

Same with the ported 18.

Yeah I screwed up my speakers but the sub is just a box and I did OK with the box part...
post #515 of 956
Finishing up my dual flat pack build and I got a couple questions as a first timer.

First, I'm trying to figure out how to get binding posts on this thing. I suppose I'd like to use terminal cups, is this good?
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=260-283

And then how do I install it? I'm guessing for that particular one, I use a hole saw drill bit that's exactly the size of the cutout? So a 2" hole saw for a 2" cutout?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-2-in-Bi-Metal-Hole-Saw-49-56-9624/202327750?N=c268#.UlNu-CSkqms

Do I need something like gasket tape to make it airtight with that terminal cup?


Second, I'm not sure if I made a dumb mistake gluing it up. Basically, I failed to glue the spot where the two braces meet on the 4 cu ft enclosure.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/85pw31feofus8gt/Screenshots_2013-10-07-22-36-55.png?m

Alternate view: (Where the Green Brace intersects with each of the red braces)
http://www.diysoundgroup.com/catalog/product/gallery/id/248/image/1122/

Is this something to worry about? I made sure to apply glue so it was airtight, but that's probably the one area where I didn't glue wood on wood contact.
post #516 of 956
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hygienist View Post

Finishing up my dual flat pack build and I got a couple questions as a first timer.

First, I'm trying to figure out how to get binding posts on this thing. I suppose I'd like to use terminal cups, is this good?
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=260-283

And then how do I install it? I'm guessing for that particular one, I use a hole saw drill bit that's exactly the size of the cutout? So a 2" hole saw for a 2" cutout?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-2-in-Bi-Metal-Hole-Saw-49-56-9624/202327750?N=c268#.UlNu-CSkqms

Do I need something like gasket tape to make it airtight with that terminal cup?


Second, I'm not sure if I made a dumb mistake gluing it up. Basically, I failed to glue the spot where the two braces meet on the 4 cu ft enclosure.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/85pw31feofus8gt/Screenshots_2013-10-07-22-36-55.png?m

Alternate view: (Where the Green Brace intersects with each of the red braces)
http://www.diysoundgroup.com/catalog/product/gallery/id/248/image/1122/

Is this something to worry about? I made sure to apply glue so it was airtight, but that's probably the one area where I didn't glue wood on wood contact.

yeah, that terminal cup will work fine

just use a circle hole cut saw the size of the internal bulge and slide it in.

yes, I"d always recommend using gasket tape around the hole for the terminal cup. air leaks suck

and you should be good with the lack of glue at that area. as long as the braces themselves are glued down you'll be fine. if you're nervous about them then just smear some pl with a finger around the "gaps" where the joints meet and that would DEF keep them locked together.
post #517 of 956
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hygienist View Post

Finishing up my dual flat pack build and I got a couple questions as a first timer.

First, I'm trying to figure out how to get binding posts on this thing. I suppose I'd like to use terminal cups, is this good? Sure
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=260-283

And then how do I install it? I'm guessing for that particular one, I use a hole saw drill bit that's exactly the size of the cutout? So a 2" hole saw for a 2" cutout? That will work
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-2-in-Bi-Metal-Hole-Saw-49-56-9624/202327750?N=c268#.UlNu-CSkqms

Do I need something like gasket tape to make it airtight with that terminal cup? Yes, I have used glue also.


Second, I'm not sure if I made a dumb mistake gluing it up. Basically, I failed to glue the spot where the two braces meet on the 4 cu ft enclosure.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/85pw31feofus8gt/Screenshots_2013-10-07-22-36-55.png?m

Alternate view: (Where the Green Brace intersects with each of the red braces)
http://www.diysoundgroup.com/catalog/product/gallery/id/248/image/1122/

Is this something to worry about? I made sure to apply glue so it was airtight, but that's probably the one area where I didn't glue wood on wood contact.
Put a bead of glue down around it then, you will be fine. Your answers are in your questions above
post #518 of 956
Awesome, thanks man! smile.gif
post #519 of 956
SI-18 baffles for guys who cannot cut round holes smile.gif and would keep shipping reasonable on a large cuft box. I'll take eight please smile.gif
post #520 of 956
Almost done with my build! Just gotta mount the terminal plate and the driver.

However, with the terminal plate, on the inside side, what methods are there for attaching the wire from the subwoofer to the terminal plate? I heard soldering is one way... are there any other ways that don't require special tools?
(It's this on the back, I'm assuming it's standard http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=260-283 )
post #521 of 956

You'll need a female disconnect crimp terminal. Looks like this

 

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=099-006

 

Measure the size of the lug so you get the right one, there are many different sizes.

post #522 of 956
Thanks! Looked it up on youtube and it seems easy, but they didn't cover the actual connection part.

I'm guessing you just slide it onto the male terminal and then you have to mash it together with a tool or something? Or is it not necessary to squish the male and female together?

I measured the male part on the terminal cup as .250", so I'm getting this for my 12 awg wire. I'm assuming this is right? But just wanted to make 100% sure.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=095-304
post #523 of 956
You need to crimp the bare wire that gets inserted into the disconnect but the disconnects themselves just push together. Though sometimes in order to get a good connection you do need to squeeze the female connector together just a little (do this off the male connector) if it seems like it fits too loosely on the male connector.
post #524 of 956
I normally just give them a squeeze with a pair of needle knose plyers to make sure the male/female stay together well

Most wire stripping tools come with the crimping cutouts for the wire side, something like this covers most everything. or you can just use plyers., I actually solder as well as crimp which is prob overkill but whatever

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-STANLEY-8-in-Wire-Stripper-and-Cutter-and-Crimper-84-199/203860092
post #525 of 956
Thread Starter 
Well guys, believe it or not, the dual opposed 18's are finally coming. My work year is winding down, so I'll have more time to get new things like this done. The Anarchy tapped horn will be getting done again as well. One reason this took extra time is because people wanted some ported 4 cuft for 12" woofers and sealed 4 cuft for 15" woofers. So I got those done......but I think only 3 have been ordered. rolleyes.gif Kind of a bummer on those right now

Anyway, the first dual opposed box is 23.5" x 23.5" x 32" deep. 8.5 cuft gross, about 8cuft net. Sounds big, but not too bad when you get out the tape measure. It will have double baffles on both sides, so add another 1.5" to that length.

I have no idea what the cost is yet, but they should be ready to go in about 1-2 weeks. I'll probably have to get some custom shipping boxes made up because these will have to ship in 2 different packages due to weight. They use 2 sheets of wood. biggrin.gif

Because it's dual opposed, I didn't think we needed a huge amount of crazy cross bracing. It will have 1.5" thick baffles on both sides, and 2 full internal braces. Let me know what you think. This photo doesn't show the outer baffles.




I think we could get the box a bit bigger and still use the same number of sheets. Maybe 35" deep. But I don't think there's any reason to go up to 9.25 cuft for these woofers.
post #526 of 956
8 cubic feet net for dual sealed 18" si or dayton seems about right. a little smaller would be more idiot proof, larger would be a little more efficient. seems like 8 is a good balance and it is a lucky number. :-)

the rabbeting adds greatly to the structural integrity and your using 3/4" stock, so i can't see any reason why 9" or so in between braces wouldn't be fine. there aren't going to be any material losses from vibration and the resonant frequency of those 9" sections is so far out of the passband that it they are effectively irrelevant.
post #527 of 956
Great news Erich, that should be an awesome addition! I concur with keeping it smaller. There's some great amp options out there these days, and as cheap as these builds are thanks to the flatpacks, if you need more output build another! Keep things nice and compact.

What ever happened to the dual opposed 15" unit? I know you said that was designed earlier, is it still on the table?

It sucks that the response has been low with the other designs- what do you think about something like an issue tracker where different ideas could be "subscribed to" and voted to the top so you know where all of the interest is?

Would make it handy to have one location to update people on the status of, and then you wouldn't have to stay on top of various threads and questions posted inside all over the place.
post #528 of 956
Thread Starter 
I can get the dual opposed 15" models, but I don't know what size to make the box.

If you guys think I should knock that dual 18" box down to around 7.5 cuft or something else, let me know. That might get it closer to 30" on the longest side.
post #529 of 956
This is what I had on the dual 15s:
Quote:
Originally Posted by nfraso View Post



If there's still interest in a dual-opposed 15" box, I think it would make a really great addition. I don't know what it takes to put together dimensions that fit the MDF, or what considerations you have to take, and this is just a crude 5min job to see what happens with these dimensions but I did give room for a 1/2" bit.

17.5W x 23H x 24.75D:



I know you've still got bracing to think about, I think this only gives a piece for the middle like the dual 10" box. But I think whatever fits best would be fine, even identical dimensions to the current 4cf 18" box which is 20 x 23 x 20.75.

Start there and leave the 23" height, reduce the 20" width (since it's a 15" driver) while extending the 20.75" depth as much as you can- wherever that happy medium leaves us should work fine.

These 5.5-6cf gross boxes should be fine for dual 15s, provided you bring enough power and EQ to the table which is ideal for a sealed setup anyway.

Thoughts?
post #530 of 956
What is the benefit of going dual opposed over front firing or down firing? Thanks,

jeff
post #531 of 956
one theory is that it is naturally balanced, so no energy is lost to vibrating the cabinet. as a result, the cabinet can be made lighter, spl should be higher, and distortion should be lower. unfortunately, the only measurement that we have is for the first instance.
post #532 of 956
Similar to the theory of an IB or an isobaric enclosure then? Is there any effect on room modes or reflections due to the differently oriented faces?
post #533 of 956
here we are talking about reducing the vibration of the cabinet itself. clamshell oriented drivers in an infinite baffle manifold would be similar. isobaric drivers would not be.

room modes, reflections, and so on will be the same as two sealed cabs place in the same orientation. could be better. could be worse.
post #534 of 956
for doing a dual opposed 15 id make the flatpack close to the dimensions of what Popalock made here, http://www.avsforum.com/t/1476390/passive-dual-opposed-si-15-sub-make-offer/0_100#post_23843140

17*23.5*25
~5.5 CUFT

I have it and im hopefully hooking it up today. We ran it at his house off 1 channel of his clone, and its very very powerful
post #535 of 956
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

Well guys, believe it or not, the dual opposed 18's are finally coming. My work year is winding down, so I'll have more time to get new things like this done. The Anarchy tapped horn will be getting done again as well. One reason this took extra time is because people wanted some ported 4 cuft for 12" woofers and sealed 4 cuft for 15" woofers. So I got those done......but I think only 3 have been ordered. rolleyes.gif Kind of a bummer on those right now

Sorry EricH, I've had my 12" Ultimax woofer for 10 months, but too busy with "life".
However.....I just placed my order, biggrin.gif , so looking forward to getting this from you next week
Quote:
You just made a payment of
$140.64 USD



I've got some decisions to make regarding amp, plate vs iNuke.
I like a plate amp for family room, as less "stuff" for eyes to see, however I'd like to not lose the low tuning of the ported box with a plate amp hi pass filter.
Currently I have a 16+ year old Atlantic Technology 12" 352PBM sub there, so looking for this to replace that as my primary sub.
I might use that 12" 352PBM as 2nd sub to help flatten room modes, tbc.


Possible 2nd sub location side of couch along wall, or the other side of the fireplace.
Time for REW and RTA to help guide placement.

Edited by mtbdudex - 10/19/13 at 7:23am
post #536 of 956
Thread Starter 
There won't be a huge number of dual opposed 18's for this group buy. So if you would like one, please let me know so I can get things organized.
post #537 of 956
Im looking for 2 DO 15's in the dimensions that have been mentioned here recently. Id go with 18's but the depth is to deep for the living room, would have to stay under 28"
post #538 of 956
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

Well guys, believe it or not, the dual opposed 18's are finally coming. My work year is winding down, so I'll have more time to get new things like this done. The Anarchy tapped horn will be getting done again as well. One reason this took extra time is because people wanted some ported 4 cuft for 12" woofers and sealed 4 cuft for 15" woofers. So I got those done......but I think only 3 have been ordered. rolleyes.gif Kind of a bummer on those right now

How can one order the 4 cu.ft 15" boxes on your site? (How many are left?) What driver is the cutout for?
post #539 of 956
Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

Well guys, believe it or not, the dual opposed 18's are finally coming. My work year is winding down, so I'll have more time to get new things like this done. The Anarchy tapped horn will be getting done again as well. One reason this took extra time is because people wanted some ported 4 cuft for 12" woofers and sealed 4 cuft for 15" woofers. So I got those done......but I think only 3 have been ordered. rolleyes.gif Kind of a bummer on those right now

Anyway, the first dual opposed box is 23.5" x 23.5" x 32" deep. 8.5 cuft gross, about 8cuft net. Sounds big, but not too bad when you get out the tape measure. It will have double baffles on both sides, so add another 1.5" to that length.

I have no idea what the cost is yet, but they should be ready to go in about 1-2 weeks. I'll probably have to get some custom shipping boxes made up because these will have to ship in 2 different packages due to weight. They use 2 sheets of wood. biggrin.gif

Because it's dual opposed, I didn't think we needed a huge amount of crazy cross bracing. It will have 1.5" thick baffles on both sides, and 2 full internal braces. Let me know what you think. This photo doesn't show the outer baffles.




I think we could get the box a bit bigger and still use the same number of sheets. Maybe 35" deep. But I don't think there's any reason to go up to 9.25 cuft for these woofers.

Looks great. Any chance these can be made of BB...for a premium of course? Please advise, I'm considering taking my next project beyond a black box. smile.gif

James
post #540 of 956
Quote:
Originally Posted by zora View Post

How can one order the 4 cu.ft 15" boxes on your site? (How many are left?) What driver is the cutout for?

The 15" cut out options are just there to choose in the 4 cu. ft box.

http://www.diysoundgroup.com/subwoofer-flatpacks-2/sealed-subwoofer-flatpacks/4-sub-flat-pack.html

It has the options for Dayton 15" Ultimax, and Dayton RS 15" woofer there.

Just a couple weeks ago I ordered 2 of these with the Dayton RS cut out. However, this was for a pair of old school Soundsplinter RL-p15, which were manufactured by TC Sounds and rebranded ~5 years ago. Its has the same cut out as the current TC Sounds 15" drivers.

I e-mailed Erich, and he promptly said he thought that it would fit without the gaskets. And it did.

I have them built up and painted now. I have been "busy" tweaking them and watching movies this week and haven't posted up a build thread, but they turned out nice.

The flat packs are just awesome and easy to put together to get a good cabinet. I want to build more now smile.gif
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