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LMS 5400 - Curved Cabinet Build - Page 2

post #31 of 49
Thread Starter 
I finally got to work on this project over the past few days and made some great progress. I suspect my dad and I won't finish until maybe next weekend, but so far things are going well. I'll post pics in a day or so.

I did have one general question to ask whether I should stuff the box with poly fill or not. The volume is about 3.5 cubic feet. If I do stuff the box should I do something to prevent the poly fill from hitting the cone or suspension or block the vent pole during operation or is it not that big of deal?
post #32 of 49
Couple of pillows stuffed in mine...

Gives ya the ability to shape and contain the fibers from pole - my box is 3.0 Cu Ft
post #33 of 49
Thread Starter 
Thanks Warp.

Here is a picture, sorry for the bad quality. I can upload some more progress pics later.

Thanks to Nathan from Funky Waves for the CNCed parts. That birch plywood he has is some great stuff. Much better than what I can find locally around here. I still need to add the solid walnut inlay for the corner roundovers and apply the veneer, but hopefully that won't take more than another weekend. This was our first attempt at a curved cabinet and it really wasn't too bad. Definitely worth the extra effort I think.
LL
post #34 of 49
I still need to add the solid walnut inlay for the corner roundovers

Nate,
Can you post some pictures when you get to the roundovers. It would be really helpful to me. I can't figure out the process to get the solid wood to bend with the radius? Kerf cuts? I don't know but I am curious to see your method. I like the build btw, nice choice
post #35 of 49
Thread Starter 
I'll try to take some pictures. You don't actually bend the hardwood to fit the curve or corners. The front and back pieces are just straight pieces with a miter cut at each end. The curves are cut from a larger chunk to fit the box and also mitered at the ends to mate up with the front and back pieces. Just glue them on and trim them flush.

BTW, in this particular build make sure to cut the perimeter out before making any corner radii to the box and then apply the veneer before the hardwood pieces.
post #36 of 49
Thanks nate.
Sometimes the answer is so simple. I thought if a few possible workarounds but the proper one flew right past me. Thanks again and looking toward to seeing your progress.
post #37 of 49
Thread Starter 
I'm considering picking up a balanced minidsp to use with the dual LMS setup. Can I get by with just the Audyssey mic that came with the receiver, copy of REW, and a laptop with mic input? What extra plug-ins would I need to get to EQ and setup a height pass filter?
post #38 of 49
I know I could never get my Audyssey Mic to work on my laptop. Plus, you never really know how accurate the mic is or isn't. For $75, I'd pick up one of these ..

http://www.cross-spectrum.com/measurement/calibrated_dayton.html

and have it calibrated to 5hz. Throw in a soundcard with phantom power (Mobile Pre USB can probably be found for $80 or so on ebay) and a few cheap connectors and you're golden. Plus you know the mic is accurate.
post #39 of 49
BTW, where are the pics of the finished subs?!
post #40 of 49
Thread Starter 
Thanks PBC, I may also look into the Omnimic since I have heard lots of good things about that.

I will get some more pics of them shortly. Unfortunately still not quite finished though.
post #41 of 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by NateTTU View Post

Thanks PBC, I may also look into the Omnimic since I have heard lots of good things about that.
I will get some more pics of them shortly. Unfortunately still not quite finished though.

If I were you I would go that route... I tried to set up everything to run REW, but got ridiculoisly irritated when it came to the soundcard on my laptop. I've heard a lot of good things about Omnimic as well. Haven't made the dive yet though.
post #42 of 49
Thread Starter 
Here are some new pics of what we accomplished over the weekend. Still need to trim the top flush and then the roundovers will be next. After that all I need to do is stain and finish the box. We probably won't get a chance to work on it again for another couple of weeks though. Sub 2(1).JPG 242k .JPG file Sub 4.JPG 237k .JPG file
post #43 of 49
Couple of weeks? Man, when are you going to be able to enjoy the fruits of your labor?

My Ultras have been sitting in my HT for 3 days now and I'm about to have a fit if I don't throw something together for them soon!
post #44 of 49
Thread Starter 
I'm certainly ready to get them back in the HT. I've been subless for at least three months. It's just difficult for me to schedule time to work on the cabinets.
post #45 of 49
Thread Starter 
I'm finally getting these back in the HT and just had a quick question. Does everyone use gasket tape/weather stripping prior to installing the driver or is the rubber sleeve around the driver suppose to be sufficient to seal the enclosure?
post #46 of 49
I picked up this tip from Bossobass a long time ago.

Take off the rubber sleeve and use gasket tape to ensure a better seal. I personally use this as it has good adhesion and forms a nice tight seal: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=260-542

I just recently used the rubber sleeve as it was only a test and didn't want to to through the trouble of using up gasket tape for a test enclosure. I listened for a bit and could tell I was getting some air leakage, removed the rubber gasket, applied the gasket tape and re-installed. The difference in performance was easily noticed and no more slight sound of an air leak that I had with the rubber gasket.

Bosso told me that all those rubber gaskets leak, after testing that out my-self he is right.
post #47 of 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by mjaudio View Post

I picked up this tip from Bossobass a long time ago.
Take off the rubber sleeve and use gasket tape to ensure a better seal. I personally use this as it has good adhesion and forms a nice tight seal: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=260-542
I just recently used the rubber sleeve as it was only a test and didn't want to to through the trouble of using up gasket tape for a test enclosure. I listened for a bit and could tell I was getting some air leakage, removed the rubber gasket, applied the gasket tape and re-installed. The difference in performance was easily noticed and no more slight sound of an air leak that I had with the rubber gasket.
Bosso told me that all those rubber gaskets leak, after testing that out my-self he is right.

+1.
It's a nice pointless accessory that the Ultra could do without... Maybe lower the sale price by $20... smile.gif

I mounted my sub with the sleve on and I felt like the worst box builder ever as soon as my box started farting at me...
post #48 of 49
Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post

+1.
It's a nice pointless accessory that the Ultra could do without... Maybe lower the sale price by $20... smile.gif
I mounted my sub with the sleve on and I felt like the worst box builder ever as soon as my box started farting at me...

I had a nice whistle that developed in one of mine, like A perfectly fine high E, no farts but ill agree, any of that stock gasket/foam stuff that comes with a speaker is useless if you want a good seal. Especially the interlocking kind like the RE has. It is worthless.
post #49 of 49
Thread Starter 
I'll pick up some gasket material at one of the local hardware stores on my way home then. BTW, I actually do like the look of the provided rubber sleeve so could I still use it and install the gasket underneath?

Also, could I use some standard bathroom tile silicone to help seal up the locations where my binding posts are installed? Would that hold up well against the electrical current and not get hot?
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