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Official BenQ W7000 Owners Thread - Page 84

post #2491 of 3788
Thanks, svosteve

It looks like I'll be sending mine back too.
post #2492 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toe View Post

Excuse my ignorance as I know nothing about ND2/ND4 filters, but how easy is it to take on and off of the 7000? I am still considering the 7000 mainly for 3d, but will also be doing some gaming with it and might need to use the filter with my HP screen for 2d viewing when throwing my smaller 1.78 image on my CIH screen.

I just stuck my ND Filter on with blutac.
post #2493 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by j2037 View Post

I just stuck my ND Filter on with blutac.

Thanks for the info. Sounds like taking the filter on/off repeatedly over the weeks/months should not present any issues?
post #2494 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toe View Post

Thanks for the info. Sounds like taking the filter on/off repeatedly over the weeks/months should not present any issues?

Hasn't for me so far. I did buy a photo holder that you could slide the square ND filter, that also works well.
post #2495 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toe View Post


Thanks for the info. Sounds like taking the filter on/off repeatedly over the weeks/months should not present any issues?

i tried blu tac but it kept falling off after it hardens overnight. i'm using a sun pak ND2 77mm and wasn't very impressed with the results.. everything was darker but seemed to have the same basic effect of turning the brightness down. maybe its the quality of the lens (it supposed to be a decent one - glass made in japan) but i'm not sold on the ND2 effect. i think i'm going to stop trying to achieve the 'perfect picture' and just start enjoying this projector as is! my $0.02


Edited by astrogeeker - 11/8/12 at 2:41pm
post #2496 of 3788
for all you w7000 owner's out there: is the iris noise (a high pitched squeal?) something that ALL w7000's have, or is it a variance between models? And for those that have heard it, how far away do you have to be from the projector before it becomes a non-issue? (i.e. does it bother you from seating distance when watching movies?)
post #2497 of 3788
Mine has the high pitched screech. I think that is one of the bigger complaints with this projector (at least for me). I have mine ceiling mounted approximately two feet above my head and five feet back. I still hear it but I guess, like anything, you start to tune it out or get used to it. It still bothers me but not nearly as much as it used to.
post #2498 of 3788
Mine makes no noise. So far so good.
post #2499 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by cardoski View Post

Mine makes no noise. So far so good.

And you're using dynamic black? Man, I wish mine had no noise.
post #2500 of 3788
so from the looks of things the iris doesn't always make noise? some people get lucky and get a quiet one? bummer! wish there was less variance. at least to me it isn't as disconcerting as the random convergence you might get on the epson's.
post #2501 of 3788
The Dynamic Black iris on my unit makes no screeching noise thank god. But the fan does ramp up a bit in Dynamic mode, what I am doing now is using Cinema mode, then if RBE becomes a problem, only on some movies, then I switch to Dynamic.
post #2502 of 3788
I have the Disney WOW calibration DVD, I'm wondering how far I can go with this on my w7000 vs getting external tools or hirring a professional for ISF calibration. I've done the basic brightness, contrast, color and tint calibration for user 1 preset, but would like to do it for dynamic mode as well, which seems very saturated. So basically just want to know how these calibration discs do vs more advanced calibrations. Thanks.
post #2503 of 3788
I'm sure a professional calibrator will make your set look awesome but also think after setting for proper brightness and contrast with the proper tint and colour, the rest can be done by eye. Probably not as good as a professional but if your eye likes it, then that's all that really counts.

I wonder if there's a thread where a professional calibrated screen vs the average Joe....Joe vs Pro. Now that shoulda' been on the show.
post #2504 of 3788
Definitely lots of threads about that in the calibration section of the forum. You can find tons and tons of those arguments.

For some content I will use a perfectly calibrated image, but definitely not for all. Sometimes the director's intent looks like the director was color blind :P
post #2505 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by astrogeeker View Post

I have the Disney WOW calibration DVD, I'm wondering how far I can go with this on my w7000 vs getting external tools or hirring a professional for ISF calibration. I've done the basic brightness, contrast, color and tint calibration for user 1 preset, but would like to do it for dynamic mode as well, which seems very saturated. So basically just want to know how these calibration discs do vs more advanced calibrations. Thanks.

I used to use disc to set the basic setting, but I know I was not getting what I should. So, I read up on the calibration threads and got good ideas that are very inexpensive. I got my calibration equipment off of eBay for $350 for a colorimeter and a spectrometer. There software that is inexpensive too but there are free ones too. Before I used to change setting every movie I watched because they didn't quite look right, after I did my own with my full calibrations, I don't even touch my settings, that's how good it looks to me. I do another full calibration every 65-75hrs. It's worth it to me than paying someone to do it. The basic setting takes me 5mins, grey scale takes another 5min, and the cms can take me up to 20min. Since I do it every 1.5-2months, I don't have to adjust much. There are programs that all you to do auto calibrations too.
post #2506 of 3788
Getting mine pro calibrated next week. I have tried a few discs and settings posted here and I just can't get it exactly how I want it, I mean it looks great but I know there is more to get out of it.
post #2507 of 3788
How much does it cost to do a pro calibration?
post #2508 of 3788
I would say about $300-500 for a pro calibration.
post #2509 of 3788
I am looking at trying to calibrate mine now that I have 100+ hours on it. Ordered a i1 Display Pro (from ebay) and hope this is the right meter to use. Plan on using the free HCFR for the software calibration and have Dinsey WOW, HD basics and free AVS HD patterens. My noob question on this is when I do the calibration do I turn off the Brilliant Color and Dynamic Black?
post #2510 of 3788
I'm not sure the correct answer but my common sense would be to calibrate it with the features you were planning on using (dynamic black, brilliant colour, low lamp high lamp). That's what I would do.
post #2511 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by schm66 View Post

I am looking at trying to calibrate mine now that I have 100+ hours on it. Ordered a i1 Display Pro (from ebay) and hope this is the right meter to use. Plan on using the free HCFR for the software calibration and have Dinsey WOW, HD basics and free AVS HD patterens. My noob question on this is when I do the calibration do I turn off the Brilliant Color and Dynamic Black?

Leave the features on that you are going to use
post #2512 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by schm66 View Post

I am looking at trying to calibrate mine now that I have 100+ hours on it. Ordered a i1 Display Pro (from ebay) and hope this is the right meter to use. Plan on using the free HCFR for the software calibration and have Dinsey WOW, HD basics and free AVS HD patterens. My noob question on this is when I do the calibration do I turn off the Brilliant Color and Dynamic Black?

I'll post my experience so far calibrating the W7000.

Dynamic is/was very difficult to calibrate with brilliant colour off, for some reason the red bar just can't get high enough for the grayscale and lowering the brightness way down is not so good as it will throw off your colors. Always leave off Dynamic Black when calibrating. Calibrating in Dynamic, make sure the color temperature is set to Normal.

As for 3D mode, I successfully calibrated to 6500k with brilliant color off. I really don't like brilliant color on so much, to me it looks as if there is a slight yellow haze over everything. Also I noted with brilliant color off, colors are more accurately separated and an increased depth of field or in other words a more 3D effect (commonly known as POP).

Today I will try to calibrate cinema mode with brilliant color off.


You can remove the ND2 filter when calibrating, as the filter doesn't effect colors, only brightness.
post #2513 of 3788
Darbee seems to work better with LCOS projectors, not sure why. Possibly because of the smaller pixels (but dont know for sure). It still makes a little difference though, it helps more in some movies than others.
post #2514 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Darbee seems to work better with LCOS projectors, not sure why. Possibly because of the smaller pixels (but dont know for sure). It still makes a little difference though, it helps more in some movies than others.
The Darbee seems to have the same positive results with the 7000 as it did with the RS45. In my eyes anyway. You can tell in both using on/off how much sharper the pic is with the Darbee. Especially on a HP screen..
post #2515 of 3788
The Darbee works well with both my Epson and W7000. I've brought the level down a bit from when I first started using it though. I now have it set at HD 35%.
post #2516 of 3788
Do most people without super high gain screens use dynamic mode for 3D? I'm using the eliteprojectorcalculator and trying to figure out how many fl I should be able to get on a 1.0 gain 133" screen. Can dynamic be calibrated to a reasonable level for good looking bright 3D?
post #2517 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by tigerfan33 View Post

The Darbee seems to have the same positive results with the 7000 as it did with the RS45. In my eyes anyway. You can tell in both using on/off how much sharper the pic is with the Darbee. Especially on a HP screen..

Fair enough, I only tried the Darbee on 2 DLP's (MIts hc4000 at a friend's house, and Viewsonic Pro8200 at my house). For those 2 DLP's, it worked better on my JVC slightly, it still helps some though either way.
post #2518 of 3788
As I said I'm getting a pro calibration done next week, but I did download the avs hd 709 disc and did some tweaking with it and it looks great. Recommend you guys try it if you haven't. I'm still playing with Darbee I like it, definite extra pop i have it at 45% right now.
post #2519 of 3788
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattr6 View Post

As I said I'm getting a pro calibration done next week, but I did download the avs hd 709 disc and did some tweaking with it and it looks great. Recommend you guys try it if you haven't. I'm still playing with Darbee I like it, definite extra pop i have it at 45% right now.

Find out what software your calibrator is using and see if he will give you the 'before' and 'after' results.

The trick with trying to calibrate color without a calibrated meter is that our eyes/brain make terrible color meters. A good example is the Sony HW50 I just calibrated. It looked pretty good out of the box, most folks would be ok with it. When I calibrated it, it had 140% blue and the green and red were low. Once the colors are corrected and you A/B back and forth, it then becomes obvious that the original out of the box color was wrong.

If your using the W7000 for 3D, the calibrator should also be able to calibrate it behind the glasses. Most calibrators may not be familiar with the yet, but it's very possible to correct for the color tint of the glasses and provide close to accurate colors in 3D mode. I did this with the W7000 a few weeks ago. I watched the avengers 3D and you can see how nice the colors look, even with the glasses on. It helps take away some of the affect of the glasses that bothers some folks.
post #2520 of 3788
I'm now ready to make a purchase and thinking the w7000 is my choice since I need lens shift and think I would like to go back to DLP. I do have a few questions before I make the final decision.

1) When using the glasses, since they use the flash to sync, do they lose sync if you move your head to say.......look at someone next to you to talk, look down at your popcorn, or reach for the remote? Will the flash be detected by the glasses even if you look away?

2) Currently have an AX200......... so, I understand the black level is not a strong suit of the w7000, but how would it compare to the Panny?

3) A few here seem to have a problem with the iris clamping shut. With that being the case, might a case be made to favor buying a refurb for ~$150 less? Has the reason for this problem been found?

4) There's been little talk about a successor other than the 1070??, but that doesn't seem like a real replacement model, so would you say there is little reason to wait?

Thanks for any input. I am anxious to make my purchase, but wanted to make sure I will get what I think I'm getting.
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