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Official BenQ W7000 Owners Thread - Page 91

post #2701 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by matrix16888 View Post

Did a greyscale calibration a week ago by following the tutorial in http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457, I'm using eye one meter, 96" 1.3 gain grey screen and tried on User 1 mode.
Strange thing is: when adjusting red and blue RGBHighEnd (gain) for 80 IRE, red is way too high for initial setting (~300%), I tried to drop red gain all the way to 0, it was still way above 120%, This affected the final results quite a bit for 80-100 IRE (Delta E > 10). Although the tutorial does not advise to adjust green, I gave it a try, i had to tune up green gain from 50 to more than 80 to get all 3 colors in ~100% range, but somehow I feel the screen is greenish..... Need some advice here which part I did wrong? For User 1, which color mode should I use, warm, normal or other mode? Many thanks!
The detail step described in the tutorial:
=======================================
STEP 6.3: Adjust the red and blue RGBHighEnd controls on your display until all three RGB Level bars are at 100% or very close. You'll have to play around the first time to figure out which way to adjust the controls to add or remove red and blue as all displays work differently. Once all three are close to 100% you should be close to the D65 point (x=0.313 and y=0.329).
Note that we only adjust red and blue. Green is typically the reference and should be left alone as adjusting the green RGBHighEnd control (and balancing the red and blue levels to match) has the same effect as simply adjusting the overall contrast.
Ok! So now the 80 IRE point is set correctly to D65! Don't get too excited, you're going to adjust it again very soon ...

If greyscale was accurate, how could you get greenish picture?
post #2702 of 3788
I just got my W7000 tonight. Hooked it up temporarily to see if it works okay. All seems to be good, so I'll probably ceiling mount it tomorrow. I got it from Amazon, November build date, and 1.00 firmware. Looks pretty good out of the box hooked up with Component. I ordered some 25' HDMI cables, but they haven't shipped yet. I think I'm going to really like this projector. I'm replacing a 9 year old Sharp XV-Z9000. The W7000 has no problem looking good on a 133" 1.0 screen at 23'.
post #2703 of 3788
I'm noticing a specific and minor visual distortion with my w7000. It's a little hard to explain but I'll try. When looking at people moving rapidly, there is a distortion around their heads/bodies that trails the direction of movement. It almost sounds like what people call ghosting in 3D, but this is 2D. I've seen it in all video sources from streaming netflix to blu rays. It's very minor but I do notice it, anyone know what I'm talking about? I first noticed it in the opening rappelling scene in the dark knight, when the bank robbers zip line across to the other building.

I suppose it could be the blu ray player, AVR or projector.. But thought I'd ask here first.
post #2704 of 3788
Have you got any noise reduction or frame creation modes turned on? Motion on DLPs is supposed to be better than DILA that I'm used to, so I'm sure it's just a setting issue somewhere. Ramping up the sharpness too high can sometimes cause odd side effects too.
post #2705 of 3788
Sounds like the FI is on, that's why I don't use it. Too much of a distraction with the distortion with every movement
post #2706 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by astrogeeker View Post

I'm noticing a specific and minor visual distortion with my w7000. It's a little hard to explain but I'll try. When looking at people moving rapidly, there is a distortion around their heads/bodies that trails the direction of movement. It almost sounds like what people call ghosting in 3D, but this is 2D. I've seen it in all video sources from streaming netflix to blu rays. It's very minor but I do notice it, anyone know what I'm talking about? I first noticed it in the opening rappelling scene in the dark knight, when the bank robbers zip line across to the other building.
I suppose it could be the blu ray player, AVR or projector.. But thought I'd ask here first.

You might be seeing RBE.

My 7000 got here last night and I am excited to fire it up! What are the best out of the box settings for 3d? I am going to calibrate the unit, but not right away and was wondering if there are some good OOTB settings until then. I will get the basics set with the AVS709 disc until I do the full auto cal with my mini 3d/chromapure which is on the way, but wondering what other tips there are.

Thx
post #2707 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by blee0120 View Post

Sounds like the FI is on, that's why I don't use it. Too much of a distraction with the distortion with every movement


yea that was it.. had it set to 'high'.. tried all the settings with the same scene and left it on 'low'.

 

thanks

post #2708 of 3788
What contrast setting is everyone using? I'm watching football and the ref's white hat is making my retina's burn.
post #2709 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Verners View Post

Can you please tell me how long the source searching message appears, and does the screen go to black while showing that message?
Have you tried to set the oppo to force 1080p/24 signal? I dont remember exactly, but i think it had the option. I guess its with all the DLP projectors, when the fps of the source changes, so does the color wheel, and it takes a while.

The search message appears for 5-10 seconds, and during that time the only thing on screen is the search message. The rest is black.
post #2710 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Tucker View Post

What contrast setting is everyone using? I'm watching football and the ref's white hat is making my retina's burn.

mine is right around 50 or so.. calibrated with the disney WOW disc.. have you tried setting the lamp mode to eco? i pretty much only watch 3D in full lamp mode.. its too damn bright! (nice problem to have, i know).

post #2711 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Tucker View Post

Are you using HDMI for picture and digital optical for sound?

Using HDMI for picture on shorter 6 ft from directtv receiver to the projector and analog wire for sound from directtv receiver to older legacy preamp far away. As said, so rarely have sound/pic synch problems that do not even worry about it.
post #2712 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by guyburns View Post

The search message appears for 5-10 seconds, and during that time the only thing on screen is the search message. The rest is black.

Sadly, I found the oppo when I tested was more susceptible to this in its interaction with the benq than the sony I decided to keep. You could try to minimize it by getting projector off the auto search in the menu, though. Also seems to be affected by the length of the hdmi cable, as even the sony had more source searching once I moved all to final locations and went from a 2 meter cable to an 8 meter hdmi cable. Also agree seems to be source dependent as well and not sure why unless related to Hz as some are saying.
post #2713 of 3788
I have 30 minutes to order this projector before it won't ship out today, any reason I shouldnt pull the trigger???
post #2714 of 3788
Its too bright for 2D.
post #2715 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilya Volk View Post

Its too bright for 2D.

It's easy to make it darker. Never hurts to have extra lumens since the lamp dims so much as it ages.
post #2716 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by talon95 View Post

It's easy to make it darker.

With gray screen? You can't remove it easily.
With ND filter? It affects sharpness and ANSI contrast.
With time? Wait until the lamp ages? It's too long.

Manual iris would be ideal, but there's no manual iris on W7000.

Also, W7000 has relatively low native on/off contrast (around 1000:1 from tests). Because of high brightness and DC2. I don't feel W7000 is good for anything but 3D.
Edited by Ilya Volk - 12/21/12 at 11:55am
post #2717 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilya Volk View Post

With gray screen? You can't remove it easily.
With ND filter? It affects sharpness and ANSI contrast.
With time? Wait until the lamp ages? It's too long.
Manual iris would be ideal, but there's no manual iris on W7000.
Also, W7000 has relatively low native on/off contrast (around 1000:1 from tests). Because of high brightness and DC2. I don't feel W7000 is good for anything but 3D.

It's fine for 2D. I have the W6000 and it looks great. Are there better projectors? Yep, probably not for sub $2k though (no, the W1070 is not overall better IMO, although maybe better when you consider cost). I've never seen anyone say sharpness was hurt significantly with a quality ND filter. People have been using them for years. If there is a hit, it must be very small and likely not visible except maybe on a PC desktop.

I suppose if you were trying to use the W7k with a sub 100" screen then it might be overkill in brightness. And that's assuming you're not fighting ambient light too.
post #2718 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilya Volk View Post


With gray screen? You can't remove it easily.
With ND filter? It affects sharpness and ANSI contrast.
With time? Wait until the lamp ages? It's too long.
Manual iris would be ideal, but there's no manual iris on W7000.
Also, W7000 has relatively low native on/off contrast (around 1000:1 from tests). Because of high brightness and DC2. I don't feel W7000 is good for anything but 3D.

thats a bit much.. i use it for 2D all the time on my 106' in eco mode.. looks amazing to me (just watched legends of the guardians and i was floored).. for <$2k i think its hard to beat, and the 3D is just a nice bonus, which really shines (pun intended) with the lamp on full.

post #2719 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilya Volk View Post

Also, W7000 has relatively low native on/off contrast (around 1000:1 from tests). Because of high brightness and DC2. I don't feel W7000 is good for anything but 3D.
I differ from pretty much everyone on this forum but a contrast ratio of 1000:1 is better than the $70,000 dlp projectors used in digital cinemas (for example better that the Christie projectors Peter Jackson installed here in Wellington for the Hobbit premiere). So my opinion is, if 500:1 contrast ratio is used for the movies in the theatres and that's what the directors like Peter Jackson are happy with, then why should I care so much about deeper blacks and better contrast? When I saw the hobbit here in NZ it was the brightness, sharpness, and flicker-free crosstalk-free 3D that made it so amazing (along with the dolby atmos sound). So that's what I'm after for my home theater. Not black level at the cost of all else.

Everyone raves about the twice as expensive JVCs and the only thing they do better than the w7000 is blacks. They are not natively sharper, or brighter, or better with motion, or 3D. All those thing (which is what Peter Jackson focused on when he kitted out the embassy theater for the hobbit) are the strengths of the BenQ.

Having said that, pretty much everyone one on this forum and every reviewer I've ever read seems to put black level and contrast at the top of the list of importance. I, simply, don't.
post #2720 of 3788
Is it so difficult to build a dark chip 4 dlp with a sony iris?
post #2721 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by cl7gr View Post

Is it so difficult to build a dark chip 4 dlp with a sony iris?

Politically and financially yes. Technically it would be simple. TI will sell to anybody, all you gotta do is pay. Getting the DI algs from Sony would be another issue.
post #2722 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilya Volk View Post

With gray screen? You can't remove it easily.
With ND filter? It affects sharpness and ANSI contrast.
With time? Wait until the lamp ages? It's too long.
Manual iris would be ideal, but there's no manual iris on W7000.
Also, W7000 has relatively low native on/off contrast (around 1000:1 from tests). Because of high brightness and DC2. I don't feel W7000 is good for anything but 3D.

You can tweak the brightness/iris of the 7000 in the service menu. I have not tried it yet, but I will need to for what little 2d I will watch (I bought mine for 3d) as it is WAY too bright right now on my HP screen. I am not complaining though since all this brightness is fantastic for 3d which is my main use for the 7000. 2d though, yeah I am going to need to tweak the iris as the brightness is uncomfortable on my 94" 1.78 image where I am getting ~2.4 realworld gain off my HP 2.8. For my 9' wide 2.35 image, I might be OK with the brightness as is, but good to know the iris can be tweaked if needed. Love the 3d and the 2d will be great for the few games I play, but 2d critical movie watching will still be done on my RS45 for sure which is much better for that purpose IMO.
Edited by Toe - 12/21/12 at 1:33pm
post #2723 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by cl7gr View Post

Is it so difficult to build a dark chip 4 dlp with a sony iris?

Is there such thing as a .65" DC4 DMD? the .95" DMDs are pricey and (from what I understand) are paired with rather pricey optics and processing as well... I'd suspect the DPI, Sim2, etc irises are pretty good, but that is a different price universe. I've read very good things about the Sharp XV-Z30000 iris and 3D... it is DC3 with good reviews, but the 2D brightness (especially calibrated is no where near the W7000). I'd be very interested to know the calibrated lumens from the W7000 and the XV-Z30000 in 3D... I'd not be surprised if the Sharp could match the 7000 in uncalibrated lumens 3D, different story for calibrated I suspect given the 2D difference.
post #2724 of 3788
130" screen ,8' ceiling max throw distance can be up to 17'
will this projector work in my HT
post #2725 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by dougri View Post

Is there such thing as a .65" DC4 DMD? the .95" DMDs are pricey and (from what I understand) are paired with rather pricey optics and processing as well... I'd suspect the DPI, Sim2, etc irises are pretty good, but that is a different price universe. I've read very good things about the Sharp XV-Z30000 iris and 3D... it is DC3 with good reviews, but the 2D brightness (especially calibrated is no where near the W7000). I'd be very interested to know the calibrated lumens from the W7000 and the XV-Z30000 in 3D... I'd not be surprised if the Sharp could match the 7000 in uncalibrated lumens 3D, different story for calibrated I suspect given the 2D difference.

Optoma hd 87 with Sony Iris and 3d or Benq W7000 with DC 3 at least and Sony Iris would be Blockbusters!!! Until then the solution is W7000 for 3D and Jvc X... for 2D or Sony VPL-HW50ES for all around...
post #2726 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by dougri View Post

the .95" DMDs are pricey

Optoma HD8000 had .95 DC3 and was not pricey, ~2.5K. But from reviews, it had not achieved an above average contrast either. Which, perhaps, can be explained by the lack of "rather pricey optics and processing as well".
post #2727 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toe View Post

You can tweak the brightness/iris of the 7000 in the service menu.

You mean - actually reduce the lamp brightness or what?
post #2728 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilya Volk View Post

Optoma HD8000 had .95 DC3 and was not pricey, ~2.5K. But from reviews, it had not achieved an above average contrast either. Which, perhaps, can be explained by the lack of "rather pricey optics and processing as well".

yes and yes... I was oversimplifying things. there is an excellent article on .95" vs .65" vs LCoS that has been posted here a number of times... very clear that with excellent optics the .95" DMDs are very nice indeed. I wish I was in the market for a .95" DMD with 3D, but I'll have to settle for .65" with the best optics & placement flexibility I can find (HC8000D? XV-Z30000? something else?). Just like the motion and look of DLPs more, but am willing to pay a bit more for better contrast than the entry DLPs offer.
post #2729 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ilya Volk View Post

You mean - actually reduce the lamp brightness or what?

Yes, you can clamp down the iris and reduce the brightness.
post #2730 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toe View Post

Yes, you can clamp down the iris and reduce the brightness.

I see, not the lamps itself is controlled, but the iris. So it gives fixed manual iris instead of dynamic iris, right?
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