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Official BenQ W7000 Owners Thread - Page 94

post #2791 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by astrogeeker View Post

they told me at one point that they would send me out a new projector replacement same day, if i put it on my credit card.. which would then be refunded when they got the unit i sent them back. not great but at least i'd have a new projector quick, although i'd have to float $2k until they process the refund.
They offered me the same thing but I hate to tie up that money it just makes me nervous anything can and will go wrong, so I'm going with sending mine out for repair at this point i'm waiting for ther shipping authorization. To be honest if the Epson's didn't ghost I would go with that instead, but I hate ghosting gives me a headache.
post #2792 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyingmunkey View Post

that's really terrible. i've had better luck with their customer service than i've had with the projector itself. i'm on my 5th unit (since may 2012) and the longest i've had to wait is about a week. but that could be due to the fact i'm about 30 minutes away from their office and have personally dropped it off in their office 2 times. hope everything is good when you get it back.

5th unit, OMG, you serious?
I bought a refurb and PJ is perfect on first try (no exchanges needed). Perfect focus uniformity, IRIS works and is fairly quiet (does make that digital sound almost like a beep beep sound), and fans all working.

So far looks like I got a great unit, how come on your 5th?
Maybe you should plead the 5th from this question (j.k)...
post #2793 of 3788
Mine was perfect for two weeks . . .
post #2794 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by rob47v View Post

supposedly the 1.03 firmware is the most stable and as you mentioned cures the 1:1 mapping issue and also improves contrast by what is suppose to be better iris control. My W7K is a feb build date which from what I come to the conclusion got sent back to benQ for the firmware update. But I've been having horrific Iris issues which makes movie viewing unpleasant. I went into the service menu and disabled the iris by turning off DB. I tried this in the normal menu and the picture would go almost black in other words the iris would go to the extreme closed position. But If the iris isn't functioning the black dynamics suffer, not having an iris with this unit makes the picture look unacceptable. Aside from its 3D performance which it is supperb since it will not ghost, I'm regretting buying this projector. The build quality isn't there. My old Sony with its SXBR panels was perfect. I'm going to contact Benq today to get this repaired.

Well, after reading this thread again I realized that 1:1 is about blurred pixels and I can see it up close now. I checked with VGA Input and its definitely better resolved. Let me see what it will take to get a firmware update here.

About the iris, I have used W6000 for the past couple of years without DI and that's fine for me. But one point is not clear, this iris issue is only with DI turned on?
post #2795 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

5th unit, OMG, you serious?
I bought a refurb and PJ is perfect on first try (no exchanges needed). Perfect focus uniformity, IRIS works and is fairly quiet (does make that digital sound almost like a beep beep sound), and fans all working.
So far looks like I got a great unit, how come on your 5th?
Maybe you should plead the 5th from this question (j.k)...

yep, i'm unfortunately very serious. every one was replaced for a faulty iris. they sent me the 4th one and it was a refurb (which all other replacements had been as well) and i didn't even test it. i sent them a rage-mail of how their refurb process has obviously failed and i want a new unit. so they sent me a new one with the new 1.00 firmware on it. it's been ok so far, aside from a noisy iris. we'll see how long this one lasts. here's a pic of #3, 4 and 5.


Edited by flyingmunkey - 1/3/13 at 11:40pm
post #2796 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by dukeav View Post

Well, after reading this thread again I realized that 1:1 is about blurred pixels and I can see it up close now. I checked with VGA Input and its definitely better resolved. Let me see what it will take to get a firmware update here.
About the iris, I have used W6000 for the past couple of years without DI and that's fine for me. But one point is not clear, this iris issue is only with DI turned on?
Yes is with DI on which in the menu they call it DB, remember DB is controlled by the IRIS, aside from that and this thing is awsome. It doesn't have the black as the Epson nor JVC or Sony, but they are still acceptable. When my budget allows I'm looking into getting one of the other brands for 2D viewing and leaving this one for just 3D. But I still want the iris issue repaired I paid for a full functioning projector.
post #2797 of 3788
OK guys, so what denotes a working IRIS just so I know 100% that mine is working.
When I turn it on or off I do see the brightness change, but turning dynamic black off compared to ON barely shows a difference.
I hear the electronic sound going beep beep in some scenes (very quiet from 8 feet away though).

That is all I have to really consider, right?
If IRIS is not working or broken, it is obvious, right?
post #2798 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

OK guys, so what denotes a working IRIS just so I know 100% that mine is working.
When I turn it on or off I do see the brightness change, but turning dynamic black off compared to ON barely shows a difference.
I hear the electronic sound going beep beep in some scenes (very quiet from 8 feet away though).
That is all I have to really consider, right?
If IRIS is not working or broken, it is obvious, right?

Not sure as I turned mine off almost immediately. I can see it pumping away which is annoying and it does not make a big difference anyway to my eyes. Best to leave it off from my perspective.

Maybe I missed it, but how do you like the 3d so far Coder? I continue to be impressed by the 3d in conjunction with the FI on this machine. cool.gif Watched Monsters vs Aliens the other night and not seeing all the ghosting combined with the much better motion made this a much better experience vs the RS45.
post #2799 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

OK guys, so what denotes a working IRIS just so I know 100% that mine is working.
When I turn it on or off I do see the brightness change, but turning dynamic black off compared to ON barely shows a difference.
I hear the electronic sound going beep beep in some scenes (very quiet from 8 feet away though).
That is all I have to really consider, right?
If IRIS is not working or broken, it is obvious, right?

With the menu displayed, mine (W6K) doesn't change much if any when you toggle it. The menu is bright enough to keep it from closing much. Just like if you look at a dark or all black image, it will close down, but open back up when you bring up the menu.

Most of the failures involve the iris losing position causing the image to go dark when it shouldn't, so in that case it's obvious. Unfortunately I think in some cases it only does this from time to time and on certain video sequences (true for my W6K).
post #2800 of 3788
I got the glasses, but I'm still at work, will try 3D in a few hours.
post #2801 of 3788
Anyone know if there will be a w8000 or whatever at CES?
post #2802 of 3788
OK trying 3D now but can't get it working. Took out the new True Depth 3D Link glasses from box, inserted different battery, tried both pairs. Clicked power button, light flashes blue, nothing...
I have 3D bluray player (Sony bdp-s590) hooked up to the Benq directly, Benq going into 3D mode I think (it's choosing the 3D preset), but it's still saying 1080p / 24 (not saying 3D directly except on Preset).
Is this right?

Hmm, since I've never used 3D on the Benq yet, not sure what it's supposed to say, should it be like the JVC and say 1080p/24 FP (3d) or something like that?
Always issues, a tad frustrating when anxious to watch 3D. Trying to play Open Season 3D, but nothing, it shows slight double image like it's in 3D mode but it's not playing in 3D...

Someone let me know, it's probably the bluray player I guess (or do I need to set Benq to transmit??), I have another 3D bluray player I can try I suppose.
post #2803 of 3788
Thread Starter 
The BQ will automatically go into 3D mode once it senses a 3D signal from the source. There is no mode that need to be engaged.

At least 1 of your 3D disks should show the obvious stereo image, so it sounds like the BD player isn't outputting the signal in 3D? cable issue?
post #2804 of 3788
I had an issue with my setup not displaying 3D and it was my Philips HDMI cable. I switched out cables to one of my Atlona cables and 3D worked. (the Philips was 1.4 I believe)
post #2805 of 3788
Thread Starter 
Plus once it's in 3D, you should also see the obvious red flash tint on the image. It's quite obvious with a scope 3D movie.
post #2806 of 3788
Already swapped cable, it's in 3D mode, black is clearly RED instead of black (red flash I assume), and I see a double image, Benq says 3D in this mode under 1080p/24 (3D).

it's something with the glasses I think. Are there multiple versions of these glasses?
Why in the glasses manual does it say these only work with infrared TV's, hmm?

Another weird thing is, it says Red light should flash once when I turn on the glass, but I get a blue light instead that flashes once. Yet when I turn off the glasses, I get the (3) red light flashes as it says I am supposed to.
I wonder if blue means bad battery, could I have 4 bad batteries (geeze I would doubt it, but anything else to look for?)
post #2807 of 3788
Thread Starter 
it sure looks like there are 2 different 'TrueDepth' 3D glasses... sounds like they might have sent the wrong pair?


truedepth.jpg
post #2808 of 3788
Yah, wrong glasses, I ordered them from the link u sent :P
Oh well, I'll send them back. What a frigging bummer...

These are not the rechargeable DLP link ones.

Edited:
Weird thing is, it does say:

(compatible with all Mitsubishi TVs that feature an internal emitter)

But it's not the same glasses as you guys have (not rechargeable), so I assume these don't work with the Benq.
Edited by coderguy - 1/4/13 at 3:48pm
post #2809 of 3788
Thread Starter 
ouch... sorry about that. I didn't realize they were different until I looked up the amazon link.

I'm sure they will swap them, but that leaves a 3D void for the weekend. it's a shame we can't get these locally!!
post #2810 of 3788
For any glasses to work, it has to say "DLP Link" on them, right?

(heading to Fry's to see if they have any, doubtful but who knows)
Edited by coderguy - 1/4/13 at 4:11pm
post #2811 of 3788
Thread Starter 
yes.. only DLP link glasses will work. good luck at the store.
post #2812 of 3788
Here is the corrected version of what I do know:

1) I truly have a strong suspicion that different peoples' projectors have different Aperture calibrations, and that is why people are reporting random differences in IRIS (like "too aggressive", or "does nothing"). Of course this probably has nothing to do with the broken IRIS issues. You can change the aggressiveness of the DI, but only if your brightness is in the correct range (meaning if you set the max too low, it will disable the DI). Running the auto-calibration on the aperture seems to reset it, not sure what it really all does though.

2) Basically you have to keep max above 70-80 and min low to see a big difference (say MIN below 20 or even below 10). Depending how bright your lamp is, if you put the min too low it will completely blackout the screen when it goes black.

3) For people running their PJ's really bright, the IRIS is going to seem more aggressive until the lamp wears in. The IRIS will seem to get smoother as the lamp ages because of a lesser difference to the eye when it isn't as bright.

How much can you change it:
Oh man, you can make it so the IRIS closes down completely on dark scenes if you want (as in a true dynamic 1,000,000:1+ contrast ratio), and it will literally fade to pitch black on a black scene (but this will cause bouncier effects). Yes, after the calibration the IRIS will still work in bright scenes but still fade to pitch black in dark scenes.

I believe the problem with the IRIS's algorithm (beyond the fact that these MFR's need to provide IRIS aggressiveness presets), is not that the IRIS is too aggressive, but it's because the IRIS doesn't start to close until the scene is so so so very dark, that is why it is hard to see in its lesser calibrated modes. This IRIS for instance is far far less aggressive than say a Sanyo IRIS or Epson IRIS in "evening time" brightness, in otherwords the brightness ramp of this IRIS is mis-programmed. That said, some of it is probably due to lower Native On/Off.

Tree of Life (Chapter 4) or any disk from the Universe series is about as good of an IRIS test as you'll find.
Edited by coderguy - 1/4/13 at 10:33pm
post #2813 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post


How much can you change it:
Oh man, you can make it so the IRIS closes down completely on dark scenes if you want (as in a true dynamic 1,000,000:1+ contrast ratio), and it will literally fade to pitch black on a black scene (but this will cause bouncier effects). Yes, after the calibration the IRIS will still work in bright scenes but still fade to pitch black in dark scenes.
I believe the problem with the IRIS's algorithm (beyond the fact that these MFR's need to provide IRIS aggressiveness presets), is not that the IRIS is too aggressive, but it's because the IRIS doesn't start to close until the scene is so so so very dark, that is why it is hard to see in its lesser calibrated modes. This IRIS for instance is far far less aggressive than say a Sanyo IRIS or Epson IRIS in "evening time" brightness, in otherwords the brightness ramp of this IRIS is mis-programmed. That said, some of it is probably due to lower Native On/Off.
Tree of Life (Chapter 4) or any disk from the Universe series is about as good of an IRIS test as you'll find.

What's interesting is if you push the "min" too far to the left (small value), the image on my W6K goes dark again. I *think* this is what is occurring when the iris has problems. It loses position, then it starts hitting those very low numbers in a bright scene and actually goes dark which is somewhat counter intuitive. Interestingly, it's been working for about a month straight now after I did a full reset on settings, reset the iris, and ram that iris calibration (all in the service menu). No idea what that calibration does, just puts up a bright white image for a few seconds. I'm convinced that combination of changes does something though as it has been working too long without issue now.

Everything you said there is true for the W6k also. You can bump the "max" value way up and get very dark black, but at the expense of obvious iris action and lots of blooming in scenes that are mostly dark with bright highlighted areas.
post #2814 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Here is the corrected version of what I do know:

2) Basically you have to keep max above 70-80 and min low to see a big difference (say MIN below 20 or even below 10). Depending how bright your lamp is, if you put the min too low it will completely blackout the screen when it goes black.
3) For people running their PJ's really bright, the IRIS is going to seem more aggressive until the lamp wears in. The IRIS will seem to get smoother as the lamp ages because of a lesser difference to the eye when it isn't as bright.
How much can you change it:
Oh man, you can make it so the IRIS closes down completely on dark scenes if you want (as in a true dynamic 1,000,000:1+ contrast ratio), and it will literally fade to pitch black on a black scene (but this will cause bouncier effects). Yes, after the calibration the IRIS will still work in bright scenes but still fade to pitch black in dark scenes.


How to adjust the IRIS that you are talking of here?
post #2815 of 3788
In the service menu, but going into the service menu is very dangerous (do not adjust anything else if you do not know what you are doing, as you could BRICK the projector).

To enter the service menu:

Go to the information menu on the regular menu FIRST, and once there:
press Up Arrow and then the Down Arrow on the remote - NOT both buttons at same time though (repeat 3 times, 6 button pushes total), then hit enter.

So Up-Down-Up-Down-Up-Down-Enter

Then while in the service menu, move over about 2nd or 3rd menu from the right, and choose Max and Min Aperture settings (if you adjust max below 80 the IRIS won't do much, and MIN needs to be below 20 or so, just experiment). Hit the menu button on the remote to exit the service menu at anytime.
post #2816 of 3788
Edited:

Decided to go a 2 projector setup, looking for a second hand JVC for 2D, just can't give up that crispy W7000 3D.
Edited by j2037 - 1/8/13 at 11:10pm
post #2817 of 3788
question for those using the Optam's zd 201 glasses , do they allow you to view right eye only or left eye only, such as the Optam zd 101 do ?

and are any one using the Optam 101 with the w7000 and do they work fine?
post #2818 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

The BQ will automatically go into 3D mode once it senses a 3D signal from the source. There is no mode that need to be engaged.
At least 1 of your 3D disks should show the obvious stereo image, so it sounds like the BD player isn't outputting the signal in 3D? cable issue?

mine doesnt do that, when I tried the espn 3d channel on comcast, I had to manually engage the 3d mode, even though it's set to auto.
post #2819 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by GPC1 View Post

question for those using the Optam's zd 201 glasses , do they allow you to view right eye only or left eye only, such as the Optam zd 101 do ?
and are any one using the Optam 101 with the w7000 and do they work fine?

Don't see any option in ZD201 to see only one eye view.
post #2820 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

In the service menu, but going into the service menu is very dangerous (do not adjust anything else if you do not know what you are doing, as you could BRICK the projector).

How about the aggresiveness of the IRIS setting? It is currently on 2.
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