Official BenQ W7000 Owners Thread - Page 96

Not had issues with focus, but the whole lens shift assembly is not very stable for me. If I try to adjust the focus by using the top part of the ring, it tends to push the lens shift down, so it has to be done carefully.

DI has issues, but I am trying to keep it on low for 2d and 3d. What sold me was a scene in the beginning of RED, where the scene pans around Bruce Willis, without FI there is a massive judder, with FI on low it's pretty smooth.

I like to ask if the repaired units that are being sent back from Bq are working great or is the DI issue still hindering? I could disable the DI in the service menu and the unit works fine, I must ad that I don't see much difference with it on to off, but as I've mentioned I paid for a fully functional PJ not one that I have to disable a system to enjoy its wonders. In the same token tho if the repaired units aren't getting proper repair or if the issue still persists then I might as well keep what I have instead of getting it back worst. In other words I'm scared!!!!!!
Edited by rob47v - 1/18/13 at 11:59pm

There is an IRIS bug some are having, I've never had the bug myself (suppose it's there). I'm guessing changing the IRIS settings in the SM might "accidentally" avoid the bug anyways without even completely turning off the DI (although cannot guarantee).

I can confirm the w7000 definitely holds the manual IRIS settings just fine, even between projector restarts. Only exception is changing modes can reset it, but I think that only applies if you change to a mode that has conflicting settings. I have been using the PJ all week without ever needing to re-adjust the manual IRIS settings in the service menu, and they are holding great.

Anyone use the FI for 2D? looking at the tradeoffs between the 1070 and the 7000, I watch a lot of sports and would hate to lose the FI if it was useful for 2D.

For 3D, the FI is invaluable, for 2D not so much.

It is probably ok for 2D sports and stuff broadcast at 60hz, for 24p content it still gives that soap opera effect even on LOW, not quite as much as the JVC FI does, but I still don't use it in movies. DLP's don't really need FI all that much in sports, but it'll be more of a personal preference.

Thanks CG... I was under the impression that the w1070 looked good without FI in 3D because of 144Hz refresh. I do not know if anyone has actually confirmed it does triple flash (would be pretty impressive at its price point, so I remain skeptical).

I am not sure how much 144hz helps, but I'm guessing it does help some, but I'd also guess it won't help quite as much as FI. 144hz is one extra frame, so definitely a benefit in 3D, but I think I'd rather have FI (of course never seen a 3D at 144hz, so no idea really).

I thought the bad motion on 120Hz 3D was due to 3:2 pulldown of 24p content, no?

Well I've seen 3:2 pulldown on regular projectors, and the 3D mode exaggerates it terribly if this was the case, so yah that might be, but 3D 3:2 with no FI looks terrible compared to 2D 3:2.

However, Zombie10k in his shootout thread has compared many 3D projectors, and he definitely says the Benq + FI is still the best motion compared to JVC's, Mits hc8000, Sony's, and what not. I think the Mits hc8000 was second best or the Epson for motion, then the Sony, then the JVC's are last due to flicker and motion.

Hey All,

I've had my w7000 for a few months now with no issues and love it in both 2d and 3d. In the last week, only when watching basketball (usually on ESPN) I get a sporadic almost strobe-like flash coming from the projector. The picture itself doesn't seem to change or degrade at all during the flash, but the light is noticeable and annoying. The flashes are only for a split second and occur randomly a handful of times a minute. Any other channel or content is fine... Just basketball so far. Other sports have been fine.

What is this? Am I nuts?

My wife notices it too because it really is like a strobe flicker in the room.

Thanks for any insight.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

Color wheel issue is my guess, slim chance it's the lamp but I suppose it could be. Try running the color wheel at a higher speed for 24 hours and see if that fixes it, you can force the color wheel to stay in 6x mode by changing the setting the service menu (change color wheel multiplier from 2x to 3x). Otherwise you can just run the projector in dynamic mode and that will enforce a 6x color wheel speed as well.

I noticed at a certain IRE just above black that I can also see some strobing in some of the test patterns, I have not isolated what it is as unlike your issue, I do not notice it in real viewing. Not sure if our two issues are related.

I figured someone would have read my post asking if the units sent in for repairs are returning finally fixed or do the DI issue still persists, Also not developing any other issues. I need to send mine in for the DI issue but I like to see if this is being resolved.

Thanks for the advice. I changed it from Cinema Mode to Dynamic Mode which I'm assuming is what you meant. The strobe effect is still there but I'll leave it in Dynamic Mode for 24 hours or so to see if that changes anything. Also, I noticed that the effect is also present during NHL Hockey games so it seems it happens during sporting events with light/white backgrounds (basketball court / ice rink).

Any other opinions or advice appreciated.

Researching some PJs for my brothers basement build and someone referred me to the BenQ W7000. Thought I would ask the experts here if this PJ will fit his room.

80% TV/Sports and 20% movies at least 104 wide 16:9 screen. (120" Diagonal)
Open Media Room, so not 100% light controlled
Screen wall is 14'10" W x 7'6" (another 12" above is a sofit)

He is wanting to put the PJ up in his rear sofit, about 16'3" away. Therefore PJ will be above screen.

Does the Benq W7000 have enough lens shift to accommodate this placement? And do you think this is a great choice for him?

New W7000 owner with a few quick comments that have been topics here:

-20'x26' room, 8' ceilings, arch of 5 windows at rear of room, which face west. Plantation blinds, lots of light leakage. Wall-to-wall, ceiling-to-floor curtains will be installed.
-Ceiling mounted
-Dragonfly 120" Acoustically Transparent DF-SL-120-AW screen, 16x9, white, stated 1.3 gain. Distance to seated eyes is about 14'.
-7.1 surround, Episode 700 in-wall ES-700-IWLCR-5 LCR, Episode 700 in wall ES-700-IW-6 as surrounds, and Episode 700 in ceiling ES-700-ICSURR-6 as rears. Elemental Designs (RIP) A2-300 subwoofer. Center speaker behind screen, L and R about 4" outside the screen on each side.
Onkyo 808 receiver managing hdmi switching for DirecTV, PS3, Zotac Zbox HD-11 HTPC, Wii not hooked up yet but will be.

Rack equipment + sub left from previous house's HT (which had a 103" Dragonfly screen, Runco cl-710 pj, Polk Audio LCi series in-wall speakers in 5.1 config)

About the W7000:

1) RBE - Rainbow Effect, I notice it on other DLP projectors (incl old Runco DLP which had BenQ guts), with very minor effect in casual viewing and most noticeable when darting my eyes very quickly around the screen. With the W7000 it is entirely imperceptible to me with casual viewing and even when flailing my eyes about the screen, I only see a hint of it. For anyone who has a minor susceptibility to RBE, I think you'll be pleased with the W7000. Obviously this is a very individual issue but I was concerned about that.

2) W7000 vs W7000+ - Mine is a Nov 12 build, with firmware 1.0, and is marked as W7000, there's no reference to W7000+ anywhere. Further evidence that the firmware 1.03 update was for the original builds and the current builds (originally? or temporarily? marked W7000+) are different, hence v1.0.

3) Proper mounting makes a difference. Ceiling outlet & conduit plate are 13' from wall, mounting pj lens 14'2" from wall (about 14'.25" from screen...) leaves just a smidge of border on the screen that isn't filled by the image at max zoom. Also, the outlet/conduit are about ~4" to 6" left of dead center of the screen horizontally. Mounting the pj on that joist means there's just a ~1/2" of slant in the image (not keystone-ing, but parallelogram-ing, if that makes sense). I'll be moving the outlet/conduit and mount farther back and exactly centered as a result. Focus does seem to be very uniform in spite of the above.

4) Overall the image is great. Very bright, very vibrant out of the box. Watched DirecTV HD content which looked great even accounting for compression in the signal, etc. Blu-Ray images were superb. The blacks do get barely muddy on very dark scenes with various shades of grey, but it's about the same as an LCD TV to me. The space scene at the beginning of Avatar was spectacular, half the screen full of a planet and the other have a star-field of space with the ship moving left to right. The sharpness of each star against space was impressive. Still need to calibrate and get a feel for all the settings. But in the afternoon, with a lot of light leakage from the rear windows the image was still very enjoyable. My previous projector would wash out easily and be unwatchable with any lights on.

5) I chose the W7000 for brightness primarily and also 2D sharpness/image quality. The "crushed blacks" get discussed a lot, but imo it's less a big deal than the vibrancy and quality of the image overall. At this price range, it's a matter of priorities & sacrifice. :-) Also 3D was not a factor at this point, but it's nice to have that option in the future.

For this screen size, the lens can go as high as about 7" above the top of the screen (might squeeze out 8"), but if he was planning on placing it above the screen in the sofit that far up, then it doesn't sound like it will fit, but you didn't say exactly how high he was mounting the screen or how far above the screen the sofit will be.

Coderguy,

If he placed the screen 24" off ground' screen height of 60" that would leave him 8" to bottom of sofit. The projector would sit inside that which would be 1" thick plus distance to actual lens. So lens shift would need to be around 11" from top of screen +/-.

Anyway to move PJ around or does it just not have a good vertical shift? Any other PJ suggestions for this setup would be greatly appreciated too.

BTW - he does not mind going with an older model or even used/b stock to make his budget work and get a great PJ mainly for 720p TV/sports and some movies. Would like to stay under $1500 but willing to stretch for the perfect PJ. His first PJ, so anything should be a step up!

The refurbished Optoma hd8300 is going to be the best image for that price that should fit, you can post in the hd8300 thread to get a user to verify the lens shift calculations. Taking a quick glance at the manual, it appears for a 100" screen, It can do anywhere ABOUT 2.5" above to 15" above the screen for that screen size. Keep in mind, it would need to be mounted upside down in his sofit just like a ceiling mount though to make the image fit. If he wants to place the PJ right-side up on its feet, then he's going to have to go with something like a refurb Epson 5010 or a new one (you can get them for under 2k now), or force the Benq w7000 to fit which can also be mounted right-side up on its feet.

I also think even though the Benq isn't a perfect fit, it can be made to fit. It's probably close enough, he might need to tilt his screen slightly with a back-board behind the screen to make up for the 3" to 5" difference, or he could just leave it as-is and slightly over-zoom the image to fill in the trapezoidal gap. Even without putting a board behind the screen, only missing the lens shift margin by 3" to 5" isn't going to create that much trapezoidal distortion if he tilts the PJ and uses the screen's border for overflow correction (wouldn't be the end of the world, although if super picky he might not like it).
Edited by coderguy - 1/22/13 at 10:18am

Looks like the Optoma HD33 would work based on calculations, and seems brighter then the Epsons, or am I missing something?

The hd33 has too short of a throw unless he buys a bigger screen or the lens is closer than the 16' 3" you stated. The Optoma hd8300 on the other-hand has a more flexible throw range capability.
You should start a separate thread to discuss these other projectors, this is getting a tad off-topic since this is the w7000 owner's thread.

Will do...sorry for off topic post guys!

I

I have my PJ about 5" above the top of the screen and the lens shift does well. This PJ stands head an shoulders above any projector for 3D. It is also great at sports. It's weakness is 2D blu ray films with dark scenes as the blacks are not great. But for the price your not expecting JVC caliber blacks.

Nellie, thanks. That is why I was looking at the benq for its brightness and sports.

This projector is great. Also in Ohio here and had ChadB calibrated my projector he is close to you and I highly recommend.

How do I get a NO IRIS setting in the service menu? Or, are you simply referring to the DB setting in the regular menu? And, oddly, when in normal viewing, when I enable DB, the image goes brighter for a split second before the iris engages. Same thing coming out of "enabled' to disabled. This leads me to believe that the iris is just a little bit closed even when DB is disabled. I would like the option of having the iris 100% open! How do I do that?

Yes, the DB settings. I am not sure how to get exactly 100% brightness, never tried, but it appears setting manual IRIS position to around 50 might do it?
The odd thing is when you go over 50 it seems to start darkening it again (at least on my PJ).

BTW, I did a full calibration just recently and this projector calibrates VERY well. Definitely an improvement, although the OOTB color was not that bad, but by default the colors are a bit cartoony in the OOTB modes, they are a tad overblown (too much gain in the gamut on some colors by default), and too cool of an image in the gray-scale (too much blue and green, though some others had too much red, but I calibrated with 200 hours on the lamp). This is one of the easiest projectors I've ever calibrated, the gamut is near freaking spot on perfect after only 1 hour of fiddling. Gray-scale pretty much spot on as well. Saturation tracking isn't perfect (not perfect on any PJ really), but it's not bad. You will lose some POP when calibrating, but that's cause the colors won't be as torchy looking anymore.

The biggest improvement was skin tones for sure, the improvements to the other areas of the picture was minor (which is often the case on many PJ's, as the default OOTB modes are usually fine for NON-skin tones in general).

After getting one preset exact, I then did end up going away from D65 slightly and used a slightly cooler than normal image on purpose just because I usually do that (I know it's weird), well what I do is create one "precise calibration", save it to a preset, then I copy it to other presets and adjust as needed. I find a slightly cooler image away from D65 barely often makes skin tones look better because it hides some lighting bias that is added by the film. This is just a personal preference though, and I only adjust it slightly (I don't go way off the calibrated spec).

Skin tones on the w7000 after the full calibration are excellent, better than my JVC for sure. I did have to make some pretty large adjustments to the GAMUT and Gray-Scale, but the end-result is great...
I think after I took more time on this last calibration, these skin tones are the best I've ever seen on ANY projector I've ever owned. They are definitely superb looking. I am VERY picky about skin tones, and the Benq really satisfied me here (and this is rare, usually I am b*****ng)...

Now to re-calibrate the JVC (oh this is so much harder, err)...
Edited by coderguy - 1/25/13 at 4:04pm

I agree, the skin tones on the W7000 are fantastic...IMHO.

I am using the guide here http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457, along with Colormunki Display. What do RGB high end RGB low end settings map to in Benq W7000?

I adjusted RGB gain and offset and came up with delta E within 5 except for 0 and 10 IRE, but not sure I used the right controls.

Thanks.

That is the gray-scale adjustments, RGB gain is the same as RGB High end, and is basically like a contrast control for each color's gray-scale (not to be confused with the Gain controls in the Color Management System - CMS). The RGB Offset is the same as RGB Low. I would prefer if these MFR's would just call it Grayscale High and Grayscale LOW, would be less confusing since the gamut also has a gain setting (which is different).

You also need to calibrate the gamut. However, before doing any of this stuff, I recommend performing the below actions first:
Generally the first thing to do before calibrating is to set the GAMMA Preset to 2.2, setup the manual IRIS if needed (if your image is too bright or too dark overall), and then using the pluge and ramp patterns, get contrast and brightness setup correctly. Also make sure brilliant color is OFF.

Then start the gray-scale calibration, but take the 100 white IRE, 80 IRE, 60 IRE, and 40 IRE measurement first before trying to make corrective adjustments. I would then rely on the 60-80 IRE measurement for the first adjustments to gray-scale, get this flat as possible, then go to the 30-50 IRE and get that as flat as possible, and go back and forth until they are all pretty flat and accurate.

Now go to the gamut calibration and do the 75% patterns from the AVS Rec709 disk. Do the white point readings first though (100 IRE at least and 75 IRE). Next, spend time on getting each color within the proper point on the CIE chart by adjusting the settings inside Color Management (Hue, Gain, Saturation). I adjust HUE first, but the order does not really matter all that much. Then do saturation and gain until it is as accurate as possible. Then after you just calibrated the gamut, go back to the gray-scale patterns on the AVS disk and use the RGB High/Low to re-calibrate them, then after that, come back to the gamut again. You can play ping pong as long as you want depending on how accurate you want to get it.

My dE's were all under 2 when I was done I believe, one might have been near 3, but most at 2 or less.