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Official BenQ W7000 Owners Thread - Page 99

post #2941 of 3788
@TOM
About 87' x 37' is the max width approximately, depending on how flush you put it against the back of the wall, that is going to leave a large empty border on the screen. I wouldn't do it, find a projector that fits, though it will fit as far as lens shift goes up from 1/3rd of bottom (Benq w7000 can be vertically placed anyhwere between screen dimensions, as well as a couple inches above or below)...

If you can get the Benq w1070 working instead it would fill your entire scope screen, but for the 1070 you'd have to mount it several inches below the bottom of the screen, instead of 1/3rd above.
Edited by coderguy - 2/2/13 at 7:37pm
post #2942 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

the projector central calc is claiming the zoom is 12.8 - 19 feet for a 2:35:1 40" tall screen.

coder is that correct?

Probably ball park, though haven't manually checked it (I will later with manual real-world measurements). My calc says 12 feet 10 inches to 19 feet 3 inches, but it's hard to say without measuring when the distance is that close.

The Benq is 12"+ long + cabling robbing him of a few inches, so he needs to add about 1.5 feet to that if he is hitting the back of the wall, since the calc uses distance from the lens.
post #2943 of 3788
It's occurred to me that someone who needs a couple of more feet of throw distance to be able to use a projector in a given room might be able to rig a high quality mirror to do it. Mount the mirror on the wall with the projector positioned the appropriate distance and bounce the light onto the screen. Put the projector into rear projection mode so the image is displayed correctly. Keeping the mirror clean might require some diligence, and controlling reflections could be an issue, I suppose, but I don't see why it wouldn't work.

Any thoughts?
post #2944 of 3788
Mirrors work, people have done it before, though I've never seen it in person.
post #2945 of 3788
Hmmm. That probably means that someone with a DLP that has no (or minimal) lens shift (like the BenQ 1070) should be able to calculate the angles to get the projection beam down low enough with mirrors to use it with an HP screen. Maybe point the projector straight down into a mirror that's close to eye level with the screen? That way you'd get maximum gain.
post #2946 of 3788
Thanks for the tips on glasses...I think I will go with the True Depth based on reviews.

One more thing...I have been checking focus with the built in test pattern and I can see a slight outline of color along both the horizontal and vertical white lines. The vertical lines have a greenish outline while the horizontal have a magenta-ish tint.
If this were a 3LCD I would say its convergence but I know that cannot be with a single chip DLP...anyone know what this could be? I should mention I am just projecting onto my wall as my screen is not here yet.
post #2947 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Joseph Clark View Post

It's occurred to me that someone who needs a couple of more feet of throw distance to be able to use a projector in a given room might be able to rig a high quality mirror to do it. Mount the mirror on the wall with the projector positioned the appropriate distance and bounce the light onto the screen. Put the projector into rear projection mode so the image is displayed correctly. Keeping the mirror clean might require some diligence, and controlling reflections could be an issue, I suppose, but I don't see why it wouldn't work.

Any thoughts?

Would work fine, but given the added hassle and cost of quality first-surface mirrors, I'd probably just spring for the xv-z30000 since it would work in this case without mirrors (and have motorized zoom/focus with lens memory to boot). Better to keep it simple, IMHO.
post #2948 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

@TOM
About 87' x 37' is the max width approximately, depending on how flush you put it against the back of the wall, that is going to leave a large empty border on the screen. I wouldn't do it, find a projector that fits, though it will fit as far as lens shift goes up from 1/3rd of bottom (Benq w7000 can be vertically placed anyhwere between screen dimensions, as well as a couple inches above or below)...

If you can get the Benq w1070 working instead it would fill your entire scope screen, but for the 1070 you'd have to mount it several inches below the bottom of the screen, instead of 1/3rd above.

Thanks for the help so far coderguy and others.smile.gif

I tried the link you have for the projector calculator to see if the w1070 would work but it was way over my head.frown.gif Does anyone know how to figure this out? The room has a 7'11 1/2" ceiling height. The bottom of the viewing screen is 27 1/4" from the floor and the top of the screen is 28 1/2" down from the ceiling. The projector coul only be ceiling mounted.

I watched a scope film last night, with the screen masked down with black velvet panels, and found it an acceptable size. I sit at 1x screen width normally so this masked image puts me at about 1.1x screen width. Ideally, I would love to have the screen filled but if there are no other options I will go with the 7000. I would love to know what the throw would be real world. I would run the cables in the wall so the 7000 can be placed right up against the waal giving me an extra 2" or so of throw.The Sharp is way over my $2k limit. As you can tell, I'm desperate to get a 3D DLP for 3D only. Watching 3D on a 42" flat panel in the family room just doesn't cut it.

I plan on buying Joesph's RS40 with new lamp but don't want to use it for 3D. However, I need to make a DLP decision before I purchase his RS40.

Thanks again,

Tom
Edited by Tom Monahan - 2/3/13 at 12:09pm
post #2949 of 3788
You can ceiling mount the w1070 from that distance. Note that about 10" will overshoot the black bars onto the wall above/below the screen edge for the 2.35 screen.
You will need a drop-pole extension to ceiling mount it, many/most ceiling mounts come optional with different size drop poles.

You do realize you will have to manually zoom the image when switching between 2.35 and 16:9, right?

If you don't care about 3D, the Mits hc4000 would be a slightly better fit, since you won't have to manually change the ZOOM to go back and forth between 16:9 and 2.35. Hence, there is a re-scale button on the device, and it has pixel shift ability.

For the w1070, the projector will need to be placed at approximately 9 feet back and a few inches above the screen so that you can use the MANUAL ZOOM dial to correct (sounds like a lot of trouble). Unless you are planning on always watching 2.35 content, I probably wouldn't get the w1070 for a 2.35 screen, but up to you.
Edited by coderguy - 2/3/13 at 1:58pm
post #2950 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

You can ceiling mount the w1070 from that distance. Note that about 10" will overshoot the black bars onto the wall above/below the screen edge for the 2.35 screen.
You will need a drop-pole extension to ceiling mount it, many/most ceiling mounts come optional with different size drop poles.

You do realize you will have to manually zoom the image when switching between 2.35 and 16:9, right?

If you don't care about 3D, the Mits hc4000 would be a slightly better fit, since you won't have to manually change the ZOOM to go back and forth between 16:9 and 2.35. Hence, there is a re-scale button on the device, and it has pixel shift ability.

For the w1070, the projector will need to be placed at approximately 9 feet back and a few inches above the screen so that you can use the MANUAL ZOOM dial to correct (sounds like a lot of trouble). Unless you are planning on always watching 2.35 content, I probably wouldn't get the w1070 for a 2.35 screen, but up to you.

So ceiling mounted 9ft back with drop-pole extension, there would be enough vertical lens shift to go back and for from 16x9 and 2.35? I know I would need to zoom but I would need to use vertical lens shift as well to switch back and forth between aspect ratios correct? I have read that the vertical lens shift on the 1070 is pretty small.

Are you saying that unless I used a 1070 for 2.35 only, you wouldn't get the 1070 because of manual zooming?

I am looking for a DLP for 3D ONLY as I want zero ghosting. I use a JVC for 2D and have used the manual zoom method for the last two years no problem. It only takes about 5 minutes to change the aspect ratio and install my homemade black velvet masking panels.

I am going to get either the 7000 or 1070. The 7000 would be much easier to install since it would be shelf mounted and the 1070 has zero horizontal shift making installation a potential pain. My JVC is ceiling mounted but can be shelf mounted. However, since the rs40 is so deep, it would get in the way of my back wall surround speakers. I have a Mitsubishi Mini Slim a/c unit on my back wall so space is limited.

In regards to 3D picture quality, is one Benq better than the other?

Thanks,
Tom
post #2951 of 3788
is there a way to do a custom gamma in the service menu?
post #2952 of 3788
Hey Guys...any tried the Ultra-Clear brand of DLP link glasses with the 7k?

http://www.ultimate3dheaven.com/dlplire3dglu.html

Thy are a bit lower in price than the True Depth so wanted to see if there were any comments on them
post #2953 of 3788
Ultra clear are junk, IMHO. They don't link and when they do they don't stay linked. Bought the True Depth's and they work really well as do the Optima glasses.
post #2954 of 3788
So the 201s and TD keep sync the best? I own both of these and both loose sync for me if I turn my head, get up, etc........Both of these are annoying enough, I would not want to own glasses that kept sync any worse!
post #2955 of 3788
Toe,

Am I mistaken or do you use the zoom method with your Benq 7000?

Tom
post #2956 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Monahan View Post

Toe,

Am I mistaken or do you use the zoom method with your Benq 7000?

Tom

Hey Tom,

I do the zoom method with my RS45, but with the 7000 due to the sloppy manual lens which I have to brace so my subs do not knock it out of alignment, I leave it zoomed out for 2.40 and shrink for 1.78 with my VP.
post #2957 of 3788
What VP do you have? I see that the AVS store has the Lumagen mini and the Darbee bundle on sale.

Thanks,
Tom
post #2958 of 3788
I use a Mini, but depending on your goals you might be able to get away with something cheaper.
post #2959 of 3788
Zombie and Coder, I am seeing a small, maybe 1/4 inch border around the entire screen area, like the image produced does not fill the entire panel up?
This is on any aspect mode and any material - even the PS3 XMB shows this small empty border...is this normal for projectors? (this is my first) Does the panel not fully get filled up by the image so you just zoom so that tiny border to move it off the screen?
post #2960 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toe View Post

So the 201s and TD keep sync the best? I own both of these and both loose sync for me if I turn my head, get up, etc........Both of these are annoying enough, I would not want to own glasses that kept sync any worse!

I rarely lose sync with'em. If you lose sync with these then you'll never even be able to sync the UC. I have 2 Ultra Clear glasses that are basically useless and the 2 True Depths and the 2 Z201's, they stay synced for me....maybe once or twice they might flicker but are pretty solid in my setup. I think I like the True Depths the best.
post #2961 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toe View Post

Hey Tom,

I do the zoom method with my RS45, but with the 7000 due to the sloppy manual lens which I have to brace so my subs do not knock it out of alignment, I leave it zoomed out for 2.40 and shrink for 1.78 with my VP.

I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on this one, but i'm concerned about this as well. I used to have a Sony unit years back that would get out of alignment because of my family walking upstairs. It was annoying as hell having to adjust it all the time. How bad is it and how did you brace it?
post #2962 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by sergio9412 View Post

I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on this one, but i'm concerned about this as well. I used to have a Sony unit years back that would get out of alignment because of my family walking upstairs. It was annoying as hell having to adjust it all the time. How bad is it and how did you brace it?


Chances are you will be OK as you dont see hardly anyone complain about this, but you wont know for sure until you try it. I would not say the 7000 is any better or worse vs the other manual lens projectors I have owned (Sanyo Z3, Panny 900, JVC RS1) as I find all of them a bit loose and sloppy, especially compared to the two motorized units I have owned (RS40, 45) which are MUCH more stable in general and dont require any additional support.

Bracing the lens on the 7000 is a bit more challenging since there is virtually no room between the lens and housing to put foam padding. What I did was wedge two toothpicks between the joystick mechanism and the projector body. It is holding MUCH better vs before, though still not perfect as I have to tweak it at times.
post #2963 of 3788
Questions about which HDMI mode to use when calibrating. I have read that some people are getting better results when they set the HDMI to RGB mode as the range is extended.
However, when trying that with the PS3 also set to RGB Full, I cannot see the black and white bars during the brightness and contrast tests on the Spears and Munsil disc. Once I change the mode back to video, I can see the black bars back down to 17 or 16. As others have mentioned, the 'Black Level' setting cannot be changed and is stuck on 0 IRE.
What mode have others had success with?
post #2964 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by bcarithers View Post

Questions about which HDMI mode to use when calibrating. I have read that some people are getting better results when they set the HDMI to RGB mode as the range is extended.
However, when trying that with the PS3 also set to RGB Full, I cannot see the black and white bars during the brightness and contrast tests on the Spears and Munsil disc. Once I change the mode back to video, I can see the black bars back down to 17 or 16. As others have mentioned, the 'Black Level' setting cannot be changed and is stuck on 0 IRE.
What mode have others had success with?

Haven't seen one to calibrating one in two days? Wow
post #2965 of 3788
Found one at a local big box store so I thought I would pick it up just to see if I really liked it or not.
I plan on returning it and ordering from AVS for their superior support and service!
post #2966 of 3788
I see the BenQ is available on Amazon. It's being sold by Amazon themselves not a third party seller for a good price. Is Amazon safe to purchase a projector from? I have Amazon Prime so I would get here in two days. I would love to order it ASAP.

Thanks,
Tom
post #2967 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Toe View Post

Chances are you will be OK as you dont see hardly anyone complain about this, but you wont know for sure until you try it. I would not say the 7000 is any better or worse vs the other manual lens projectors I have owned (Sanyo Z3, Panny 900, JVC RS1) as I find all of them a bit loose and sloppy, especially compared to the two motorized units I have owned (RS40, 45) which are MUCH more stable in general and dont require any additional support.

Bracing the lens on the 7000 is a bit more challenging since there is virtually no room between the lens and housing to put foam padding. What I did was wedge two toothpicks between the joystick mechanism and the projector body. It is holding MUCH better vs before, though still not perfect as I have to tweak it at times.

My one major complaint is this as well, my 4 year old plays directly above my theater and lately I have had to adjust the focus and make sure the projector is still aligned properly EVERY time I turn it on now! Getting annoying, I turn it on and it's all blurry and then you have to adjust from the unit and you know you can't get it friggin perfect because you aren't at the screen. My w10000 was so much more solid with auto focus and never had this issue. This projector really is great except for this issue. Not sure how to correct it or if its even possible.

I use the true depths and they are perfect, I've never lost sync.
post #2968 of 3788
Tom - I just ordered my W7000 a few weeks ago from Amazon w/ Prime. I have had no concerns or issues ordering bigger ticket items from them. Just make sure you're there to sign for it since the site says values over $1300 require signature, and the delivery man did require a signature on mine. Price hasn't moved more than $100 since fall, too (iirc).
post #2969 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattr6 View Post


Getting annoying, I turn it on and it's all blurry and then you have to adjust from the unit and you know you can't get it friggin perfect because you aren't at the screen.

 

You should expect the focus to be off right after turning on the projector. It takes a half hour or more for the focus to warm up. If you focus initially once the projector has warmed up (an hour or so) it will be badly out of focus. I know the image on the W6000 shifted a bit while warming up as well... haven't looked that close on the W7000 yet.

 

What I posted about the W6000 way back when... http://www.avsforum.com/t/1127322/benq-w6000/1740#post_21199866


Edited by Charles R - 2/4/13 at 1:37pm
post #2970 of 3788
Quote:
Originally Posted by mattr6 View Post

My one major complaint is this as well, my 4 year old plays directly above my theater and lately I have had to adjust the focus and make sure the projector is still aligned properly EVERY time I turn it on now! Getting annoying, I turn it on and it's all blurry and then you have to adjust from the unit and you know you can't get it friggin perfect because you aren't at the screen. My w10000 was so much more solid with auto focus and never had this issue. This projector really is great except for this issue. Not sure how to correct it or if its even possible.

I use the true depths and they are perfect, I've never lost sync.

Like Charles mentioned, the projector will be out of focus when first turning it on which is how my unit is as well. Focus the projector after it has been on for at least 30 minutes or more and you should not have to touch the focus after that, but it does require a warm up period before the focus is fully up to speed which I agree is annoying. My JVC also has a warm up period for optimal focus, but the degree my 40/45 are out of focus when first turned on is much less vs the 7000.
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