Official BenQ W7000 Owners Thread - Page 100

Like Charles mentioned, the projector will be out of focus when first turning it on which is how my unit is as well. Focus the projector after it has been on for at least 30 minutes or more and you should not have to touch the focus after that, but it does require a warm up period before the focus is fully up to speed which I agree is annoying. My JVC also has a warm up period for optimal focus, but the degree my 40/45 are out of focus when first turned on is much less vs the 7000.

Just heard from Mike@AVS that they are no longer carrying the 7K anymore due to all the problems....the search continues!
Any alternative under $2k for a nice DLP projector??

I spoke with Mike as well today regarding Benq. I'm going to order mine from Amazon. Mike didn't really think the Sharp was that good. He could have special ordered it for me but said that Sharp has gone downhill. No other DLP's will work with my short throw.

Thanks for responding to my question!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I will place the order with Amazon. I love Amazon Prime.

Did yours come with the latest firmware?

Only $3.99 to upgrade to next day air. I couldn't pass up a deal like that.

Thanks
Tom
Edited by Tom Monahan - 2/4/13 at 9:04pm

I want to know how everyone focuses? I'm seriously thinking of buying binoculors. I miss my power lens.

 

I place the menu in the center of the image and focus the text the best I can... you can pretty much see it come into focus. Once it's close I'll move the menu to the left and right corners and check focus. Often, you'll want to tweak the focus to make them a little sharper... giving up a little in the center.

I like to use a web page from my HTPC, all the text helps.

What is the latest firmware? What issues does it fix? I ordered from Amazon and am concerned that it doesn't have the latest firmware.

A guy posted Jan 8, 2013 on customer review for this projector that he ordered two and both had the old 1.0. firmware. The projectors manufacturing date was 11/12. Is this possible given the maunufacturing date? I don't know if he's confused about the firmware or not.

Thanks,
Tom
Edited by Tom Monahan - 2/5/13 at 11:22am

 

They started calling the firmware 1.0 last year (mid year or so?) with a new revision and or production run. I'm guessing everything before was considered Beta. And yes the Amazon units have the latest firmware available... 1.03 isn't newer than 1.0 in this case.

Edited by Charles R - 2/5/13 at 1:29pm

Yes, the one I just bought has a Nov 2012 build date and firmware of 1.00

I was under the impression that W7000s had 1.03 as latest, and W7000+s labeled as W7000 regular have 1.00. I haven't seen any list of what is actually different in a W7000+, but it sure sounds like the 1.00 firmware has all the fixes from 1.03 on the W7000, but it probably has some other changes in the actual hardware. Same specifications and feature set though.

I was on the fence between the w7000 and epson 5010, and after reading thousand of posts I pulled the trigger on the Benq w7000. I really want to like this unit, and coming from an old, but trusty Sanyo Z4, I believe to see a big improvement. If and fellow AVS member would like to share the calibration settings for an optimal image I definately would be very thankful. Looking forward to have a great 3d experience!!!

Hey MC....theres a small thread on using some of the settings from Art's review and HomeTheater Mag
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1424507/official-benq-w7000-setting

Thanks guy's for the replies to my Amazon firmware question! It arrives today so I hope it's an updated one.

I need to order glasses. I can get the True Depth in a pair of two from Amazon and have it by Thursday or Friday. The ZD201's can be imported from Amazon UK but wouldn't arrive until the end of next week. Are the ZD201's worth the wait? I don't wear glasses only contacts if that makes any diff in the decision. I only need one pair as I'm the only one that will be using the projector. The wife HATES 3D. Amazon Prime isn't available for the single pair. The True Depths on Amazon come with two pairs so I would have a backup. The ZD201's are availalabe individually.

Thanks,
Tom

Thanks bcarithers.

Only reason I found to use the 201s (which is what I use) over the TDs is because the smaller lenses on the 201s dont show as much rear room reflection so if you dont have an issue with that, I would just get the TDs as the performance is damn near identical from my tests otherwise. I think the TDs are a bit more comfortable as well, but some might disagree. I also like the recharge factor of the TDs better.

Strange that you cant get the single pair with Prime. If you only need one pair, you might want to just get the single pair to save money and just get the standard non prime free shipping which is what I did.

Thanks Toe:)

My room is all black velvet so rear room reflection shouldn't be an issue. I'll go ahead and get the True Depths on Amazon. I want my glasses NOW since I just got my projector and am dying to check out the 3D. With prime plus $3.99 for next day delivery I could get them on Friday. I wonder if I could order both the two pack and single pack. Open up 1 pair in the two pack on Friday and then when the non prime single one arrives return that in the two pack with the unopened one.:confused. I wish I new how the two pack was packaged to know if this would work:

I'm very happy with the 7000 so far but have a few questions.

How do you shut off or adjust the DI? I can't find it anywhere in the menu.

Do you select real for the aspect ratio?

Is it normal to have small grey bars on the left and right side of the image?

I have sharpness and detail enhancement set to zero but see a little ringing on blu-ray's that don't exhibit this on my jvc.

Unfortunately, the most I can zoom out , on my 40x96 screen, with my throw is 86" wide. This gives me 5" of wasted screen on both sides of the scope image and 3.5" of wasted screen above or below the image. I have velvet masking for the sides but would need to make another one to cover the top bar. Since I am just using it for 3D, I need to wait on those glasses to see if this compromise is worth it. Most 3D is 16x9 so I'll have a tough decision to make.

My 2D JVC is ceiling mounted because it is too deep to place on the back wall shelf as it would mess up/block my rear wall speakers sound. So the only way I could use a DLP ceiling mounted would be if I were to use a DLP for both 2D and 3D.

I live in Montana at about a mile high. I sure hope I can use the 7000 in low altitude because that high altitude setting is LOUD!


Thanks,
Tom

Well, the second unit showed up. Oct 2012 build and no referb sticker so I'm guessing it is a new unit. It works perfect. Quiet and sharp. Too bad it only took 7-8 weeks to get a working unit. Back to enjoying this unit.

Hey TOM,

You can turn off the Iris by just setting the 'Dynamic Black' option to NO in one of the menus...that will turn it off.

Yes, REAL seems to be the correct aspect ration for 1:1 viewing

About the grey bars...I too have seen a small 'frame' if you want to call it that borders the entire image. It is maybe 1/4 inch wide so am not sure if this is normal or not.

I have been setting my Sharpness to 2, which is the Max, and detail enhancement to maybe 2-3...3 seems to start adding some artificial edges especially along the outer edge of the image.


3AIMS - Does your new unit not make the beeping noise with the DI? I am also getting that noise and was wondering if it is normal or not.

My new unit is as solid as my original purchased unit. No power buzz. No iris whine/beep. No odd sounding fan. Just as sharp. Quiet. My first replaceement was terrible. Had all three problems. My latest unit (which does appear to be new) is perfect. In fact, I use just about all of the downward lens shift due to a high ceiling and I think the geometry of the picture is a bit more square/level than my original one. I'm happy again.

Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I haven't noticed that noise but I'll check it out today and let you know.

I'm thrilled with my unit except for the black level. I have been spoiled with the JVC's for years.

Tom

 

If you turn the iris off and go into the service menu you can tame its brightness quite a bit which really helps the black level. Lots of posts cover this in the thread...

I am using an ND filter. Would lowering brightness in the service menu basically acomplish the same thing or would it improve contrast?

Thanks,
Tom

PLEASE HELP

I really like the 7000 but I am having a serious problem that's a deal breaker unless solved. On every blu-ray that I have played that has no known ringing, there is ringing. If I get next to the screen, I can see it pulsating slowly. It goes from a little visible to VERY visible as it pulsates. I checked out Kung Fu Panda and could see ringing that was at least 1'8" thick on a screen only 85" wide. The level of ringing changes depending on what angle you are looking at it. I have sharpness set to 0 and what I think is called detail enhancement? set to zero as well. It's easily visible from my 8' viewing distance. I tried using my Oppo's picture adjustments but even those do nothing to help. Is this projector defective or is this just the way it is? I know Kris Deering had some issues with the sharpness control in his home theater review. I just got it this week new from Amazon.

Tom

Unfortunately, I don't have a digital camera.

Do you think I should have Amazon send a replacement? If it wasn't for this issue, I would be thrilled with my purchase. This is the only DLP that will even work in my setup.

Tom

1.00

1.00

There is a guy selling a used 7000 with firmware 1.03 for $1K. That would save me around $800 if I returned mine to Amazon and purchased his. The risk being that ringing issue.

If there is no ringing problem I could then by a conversion lens to fill my screen with a total investment of about $2.5k.

Tom