Official BenQ W7000 Owners Thread - Page 103

this projector has been getting sub par reviews lately and even on amazon...its time for benq to upgrade to a new projector.seems unreasonable that over year this has been released that the best they can do is downgrade to a couple of models...just a shame...a good tell in this forum on how good a product is,is to not see any responses on the threads.the higher you are on the thread,the worse it is.

HP = High Power which is a screen with high gain such as 2.1 or so.
I, myself, am using a 1.0 gain Cinegray screen with the BenQ and its pretty good...it helps the black level a bit.
I did some experimenting last night watching Skyfall on a Gamma of 2.0. I paused the movie on some dark scenes to adjust so I could see the detail on Bond's suit (which is usually black). This gave me better overall shadow detail in the dark scenes without it going completely dark and also gave me nice bright colors in the Casino scenes.

Despicable Me, Tangled, and about 15 minutes of varios others including Avatar and Drive Angry.

My wife is out of town this weekend so today and tomorrow are going to be 3D day.

I also need to figure out if I'll have enough light output to fill my scope screen for those 3D movies since I don't use an anamorphic lens anymore. Mike Garrett told me that a high end .8 Navitar hd conversion lens would allow me to fill my 40x96 1.0 screen. It's expensive but it would allow me to use non short throw projectors in the future. Without it, my projector options are very limited at least with 3D DLP.

Tom
Edited by Tom Monahan - 2/16/13 at 12:28pm

I do need to go into the service menu to turn on the DI as well. Fortunately, it only takes about 10 seconds to do.

Tom

What size screen are you using?

How do you find the 3D light output?

Just finished calibrating with ChromaPure. It turned out pretty good with only green giving me a bit of an issue. Gray scale and the rest of the colours calibrated really well.

edit:

I just redid a calibration and this time it turned out awesome! ChromaPure is simple with awesome results!
Edited by Crabalocker - 2/16/13 at 9:49pm

Watched Monsters vs Aliens and Rio tonight. These two would be worth the 7000's price alone. I actually enjoyed 3D in scope better than 16x9. FANTASTIC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Tom

Someone else in this forum was disappointed that the w7000 wouldn't go letterbox in 3d, required for anamorphic lenses to work. Can you confirm that?

Sammy's Adventure is by far the best title for pop outs. A must have for your library as a demo disc.
Jason, do you remember my tru depths buzzing? I have four pair and cant hear it.
Edited by michaelscott73 - 2/17/13 at 9:08am

Hey Tom,

My screen is 106" and its about 15 ft from the screen. Plenty of brightness, even in economic mode. I have been using a 2.0 Gamma for 3D with great results.
Can you guys repost on how to get into the Service Menu to turn on the Iris for 3D?

Thanks

great info, My trusty Sanyo Z-5 almost let out a wimper when I moved it to the corner. Will post reaction later tonight too,thanks

Had to go in couple times to reset dynamic black after DB problems - think coderguy late 90's pages, but think it's information menu, hit arrows up, down,up,down, up,down then enter ? To save after changing hit menu. Have not tried this for 3D. He warns be careful in service menu on adjusting too much as can brick projector.


And think you were the one who posted the Real setting, thanks, as had on Anamorphic, which was very good, but Real is sharper, with improved color balance.

Maybe signal interacting with something in your room, as seems noone has heard this buzzing, so strange. Zombie probably better to answer this as has done extensive testing with both brands. I do not use 3d much, and now mainly use true depths due to comfort. Also has better lock than 201s. So this may be source dependent, but have had the vague feeling that true depths are like looking out a window where you still might notice slight window reflections, thus reminding you it is 3d. With the 201's I usually have the feeling I'm just outside watching, with minimal reflections if at all. Again, have not done much back and forth, so others could address this better. Did push thru Hugo with 201s and was stunning, but have not tried with true depths.

I tried a second pair of true depths and am happy to report that they don't have any buzzing. The bad one will be exchanged.

Tom

I noticed this as well doing an A/B with the 201s and True Depths. The 201s I assume due to the smaller lenses/design show significantly less reflection in the lenses which I find distracting with 3d glasses in general. If not for this reflection issue, I would just use the TDs, but the 201s show the least amount of lens reflection of any pair of active 3d glasses I have used to date and because of this provide a better experience in my room.

Even with an a-lense you still have the black bars on top and bottom of the screen.

Yeah the BenQ manual is a bit confusing on which Aspect to use...it appears that Anamorphic is correct when it actually does a bit of scaling depending on the source (it will vertically stretch a scope image).
I confirmed with BenQ support that Real was 1:1 apsect.

Well my 2nd unit is on its way back to Newegg....same noisy Iris and also the top left segment of the screen seemed quite blurry.
Those of you with good units, what is your build date? So far I have had one built Oct 2012 and the 2nd was Nov 2012.
I guess its just luck of the draw these days even though we are spending thousands of $$$!

The far right side of mine doesn't have very good focus. I'm afraid to exchange it again since everything else is working well. The focus on my first was AWFUL.

I really like the projector but I could sure use some more brightness.

Tom
Edited by Tom Monahan - 2/20/13 at 1:21pm

After checking out a bunch of 3D movies, I have to say I much prefer 3D animated ones over live action. Many live action movies look so fake I would rather just watch the 2d. Some look great however. Many of the fake looking ones are native 3D not conversions. Anyone else feel this way?

Tom

Yep

Mine's right side on the top corner usually when I turn on the projector is a little "soft"as well, but after a few minutes, the sharpness is perfect. I'm also using the the max zoom of throw. The only problem I'm having at the moment is when I get close to the projector, the static electricity build on my body is enough to make the projector go to source searching, but goes back right on when I go back to my couch. I know, kind of crazy. I was thinking about returning it for that, but you never know what you are going to get next.
Edited by mcvaz79 - 2/20/13 at 4:58pm

Focus uniformity was definitely off on my first unit, but this replacement looks excellent to my eyes.

I have also noticed that the image is noticeably soft when first turning it on and there is quite a change in the first 5 minutes or so at which point it looks much sharper. Even after that time though, it is still not 100% as far as the sharpness which takes even longer (not sure how long). Not a big deal, but interesting all the same.

I also experimented with the iris as far as possible muting of the color which was mentioned here recently and I dont see any of that. The overall brightness lowers when clamping down the iris of course, but there is nothing muted about the colors and if anything they look a bit over saturated (vs my calibrated RS45 which is at a very similar brightness level with the BenQ iris tweak in place) which I will take care of when I calibrate it.

I have found the same thing regarding sharpness. Tonight, I turned it on 10 minutes prior to watching Polar Expess. There is no doubt a little warm up helps it.

Toe, how is the sharpness compared to your rs45? I have fallen in love with the sharpness on this thing.

I'm so thrilled that I ordered an expensive Navitar conversion lens from Mike at avs. I originally wanted it to fill my scope screen for scope but now I plan on using it for 2D as well sometimes. Animation looks so much better than my JVC in 2D.

Tom

One of the first things I noticed about the 7000 when I got it vs my 45 is how sharp it was. Not a huge difference, but enough to be noticeable and definitely a step up in sharpness compared to the JVC. The Oppo logo on my 93 which I have seen a 1000 times on the 45 just had that extra level of crispness to it on the 7000. The sharpness on my 7000 when I am zoomed out to fill my 9' wide 2.35 screen looks about the same as what my JVC looks like when zoomed down to 1.78 at 7' wide. Zooming the JVC out to fill the 9' wide 2.35 screen you definitely loose a bit of crispness, but the 7000 looks very sharp still at that size and again comparable to the JVC when zoomed down to 7' wide. Besides all the 3d advantages, sharpness is one of the things I like best on the 7000 vs the 45. I still much prefer the 45 overall for 2d blu ray playback since the contrast is so much better, but the 7000 certainly has its perks.

Do you guys have any guesses as to why the BenQ W7000 takes so long to get to maximum sharpness? It's hard to imagine that mirrors would take time to "warm up." What else could it be?

I have no idea. I am curious as well and maybe someone who understands the DLP tech better could explain it. My JVCs need time to look their best, but they are not as far off as the Benq is when first fired up.

just wondering what projector you guys are talking about?

as for you static electricity did you try adding some humidity to your home? its dry in winter humid in summer eh....

thanks

new panasonic 8000 projector for about 2600.00 it had a 500,000 to 1 contrast ratio.. dont know much else..

would this be a good projector for 2 d mostly and a bit of 3d?

thanks