JVC RS 45 / Sony HW30 / BenQ W7000 / Epson 5010 mini-shootout - Page 89

It seems that these boxes are no longer available. Amazon does not have them anymore and Adorama states there is a hardware issue. I wonder if the motion picture industry came after them.

Zombie-- Can you show a picture of how you have your projectors mounted? I'm looking at an RS-55 and might be able to squeeze enough money out of the budget for a dedicated 3D projector... I plan on building a soffit/shelf at the back of my future theater room to house the JVC... not sure if I would need to mount the epson above the JVC upside down? Or put the side by side?

Thanks

It doesn't really matter if you put one above or to the side of the other unless you are using a retro-reflective screen (HP 2.4/2.8 gain), otherwise just whatever works best in your setup.

If using an HP screen, I'd put the JVC at the lowest most centered position, then put the Epson above it on the next shelf up. You can buy wire shelfs at Walmart for $70 as an easier solution but probably won't be nearly as aesthetically pleasing as your custom shelf.

You can see how I describe mounting multiple projectors here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post22017927

If anyone needs it, here is the formula for calculating clearance paths (like to clear your head) for a projector to screen:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...2#post21863092

...

Zombie, as usual you are correct: I just read this on the other thread about the 950 stock.

"The second batch should be available from Adorama any day now.

With regards to stock in general, Amazon ran out of stock after we did all of the replacements to date. We have some units in reserve to ensure that customers who have the power-on issue can get a replacement quickly. The second batch of players is shipped in two groups: first group was shipped air express to shorten the amount of wait time for customers waiting for replacements. The rest are shipped ocean freight, which takes quite a bit longer. Now that the first group is sold out, the player will be out of stock on Amazon until the next group gets here in a few weeks."
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Jack@Micca
Micca Support Specialist

The main reason I need to archive all my Blurays is because they are too easy to scratch (and I am even relatively careful). Certainly they could have come up with a more durable format than CD's/Bluray by now. I hope the next format for say 4k is cartridge-like or flash, CD's suck :P

Really? DVDs are fairly easy to scratch, but BDs seem to me to be a lot more durable in that department. DVDs arriving lose in their case would end up with scratches and playback issues, but BD added a nice coating. I've received BDs lose insider cases with broken plastic and they cleaned up fine and play back with zero problems. One of the reasons I buy my BD used whenever I can as even the rentals hold up well. Are you using them as coasters?

I have had more problems with Bluray not playing back than any other media. (CD/DVD)

All it takes is a micro scratch that is inline with the laser tracking and the disc playback errors on the scratch. Some scratches are even hard to see and I can have problems. My players are older but the newest is a PS3 I bought about a year ago. I even have had problems with the PS3 not playing a disc from Netflix and the disc looks clean until you view it at the right angle so you can see the micro scratch.

DVD's can be scratched to heck and still play fine. I have a DVD I let a friend of mine borrow years ago and he used it as a coaster. It was so scuffed up the refection was gone on the bottom. I'll be damned it still plays fine even more than 10 years later. Never had any problems with CD's since they came out. Been collecting since early 80's and they all look like new. I just ripped all to a server a couple years ago. If I do get one with a scratch that doesn't play I have used car wax and it plays fine after. Never tried that with a bluray though. Maybe I will someday.

Ron

Me too...I own tons of both and have no doubt in my mind that BDs become unplayable a LOT easier than DVDs. I never felt that need to rip my DVDs and store them on a server (of course HD space was a lot more expensive back then... ), but the very first thing I do when I buy a Blu-ray disc is to rip it before it becomes unplayable...so that I can leave the Blu-ray safely tucked away in its case and I have a playable backup that will hopefully be good forever.

I also rent a lot of Blu-rays from Netflix (you know, the B movies that I just see no reason to own but might enjoy viewing once), and getting a disc from them that will actually play all the way through is a 50/50 proposition at best - I rarely had problems with DVDs from them. The problem has become so bad that I am seriously thinking about canceling my membership, as there are simply too many bad discs being sent out.

1 in 4 from Scratchbox (RedBox) are nearly unplayable to me even after intense cleaning (meaning at least some skips), haven't rented much from Netflix lately.

I never figured out how to rip a bluray. Maybe I should start.

Here's a guide http://www.4shared.com/file/j7V1TDig...ing_Guide.html

AnyDVDHD is the best hands down.

I also want to Thank zombie10k for starting this mini-shootout and also for recommending the 5010 for my situation...I actually bought the 6010 today and it's being delivered Thursday. I'm so excited!

I hear you, getting a new PJ is about the only time I still feel like a kid at XMAS. That and winning a million dollars, but the second part hasn't happened yet, besides if I won a million dollars I'd just spend much of it on HT equipment... That said this is a disease, I am never satisfied, I want darker blacks than the JVC, brighter images even yet, perfect 3D, and better sound. My tastes exceed my budget so I have to live with what I have at the moment.

I got the monster glasses in for the RS-45, and am a bit confused. Maybe I fried them or they are defective.

So I plugged them into a USB charger, the light flashed red a few times, I left them there to charge...

I come back an hour or so later (not nearly 3 hours), and there is no longer any blinking lights on (no charge indication), so I figure, ok maybe the light turns off and then it will show up green after it has hit a full charge. Then I am like, ok unplugging them and re-plugging them in to see if I see any light again. So far no more blinking lights when plugging into a charger.

Is that normal?

Everything is normal. Your glasses are fully charged. I suggest that you update the firmware with the latest VIP firmware and try them out with your JVC projector. Turn on 3D source with the emitter connected to the JVC and then turn on the glasses. They will blink for a few seconds an sync with the emitter. You will have to adjust polarity for the glasses with the jvc. That is the reason why I suggest updating to the VIP firmware first. It is much easier to adjust polarity with this firmware. All information is on the 3D tech talk thread with links to the firmware. I love these glasses and they are a great buy now.

I thought it important to highlight the unusual issues which cause can cause ghosting, at least for the Panasonic 7000 LCD projector. This anomalies are now well documented:
1) dynamic iris
2) altitude
3) temperature
4) ceiling mounting
5) lamp brightness
6) sharpness and clarity settings
7) lamp age
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post21933640

In my opinion this years 3D projectors have put owners through unacceptable levels of misery. Hopefully these issues will be fixed in next years models.

With all single chip DLP models being tested, incorporating 3D results in reduced contrast/dynamic range/black level. The basic single DLP chip limitation is that that mirror can only be in one place at any instant.
It is noted that DLP designers attempted to carefully conceal this degradation by eliminating 1:1 pixel mapping and introducing blurring. DLP inventor Texas Instruments was preoccupied with pico (convenience over image quality) and commercial (4K rez for 2D, 2K rez for 3D) markets.

A similar effect is also there for LCD and LCoS technology. It will be most interesting to see how much the JVC 2D picture quality degrades as they increase the 3D panel speed. Sony provided a cost effective solution in eliminating the single pixel resolution optically.

I'll take any projector of any technology that overcomes these and similar obstacles. That will be my next purchase.
In the meantime the large Sharp 70-90" flat panels are invading. Just ask Apple.

Cine4home (Ekkehart Schmitt) is very impressed with the accurate color, high native contrast and high brightness 80" Sharp flat panel:
http://translate.google.com/translat...p_80_LE645.htm

Image size is just one factor. Our immersive feeling also depends upon room size, viewing distance and image clarity (MTF/contrast) too. 70-80 inches allows for many images to be approximate the size as we view in real life, so bottom line it is satisfying.
No glare matte screen is very useful for DAYTIME viewing too. I use an LED mounted strategically to bias the Sharps own light sensor (OPC), so the TV brightness automatically adjusts to the ambient light.
Calibrated perfectly with an i1 Display Pro 3 meter and using a HTPC video card look-up table, the picture quality is close to perfection for all family uses.

Front projector companies must improve reliability and PQ to remain a viable format.

Currently I have a benq w10000 which has a contrast ratio of 10k:1, 18' feet back with a 120" AT screen 1.3 gain. Celling is blacked out, dark colored walls, no ambient light. Would a 5010 give a huge jump in black in addition to a brighter pic?

Should give a decent boost to blacks, depends how sensitive you are to contrast and what you watch, everyone will see it differently. I would look into the JVC's if 2D is your main concern, but the Epson gets pretty close in most scenes.

----------TV vs. Projector--------
The auditorium effect is awesome, I don't quite get that in my setup at 106" sitting 10 feet back, I mean my setup is fairly immersive but it's not quite as good as say 150" at 15 feet back.

I haven't seen the Sharp TV's, but there are still some advantages to projectors over all TV's that I have seen. For one, an LCOS projector has a far higher pixel fill than any TV that I've seen (now I'm not an expert at TV's, so I'm just saying from what I've seen). For me, TV's look digital, it's great to watch re-runs of Matlock or Andy Griffith on, or maybe catch up on an episode of "As the World Churns", but there is still something missing. True the contrast is higher and it has somewhat of a shinier intrascene punch in dark scenes (even over a JVC), but it is missing that film look.

Once TV's get over say 90", it becomes a big shipping and unpacking issue. Projectors are portable and aren't easy to break during moving either. Plus you can move them between rooms, try that with your 120" TV.

Thx coderguy, 2D is primary concern but also a punchy pic to go with those blacks. Right now although the pic got way better after addressing the ceiling I'm still looking for that next level.

Correct.
Most us forget that +90% or more of these projector owners enjoy the PQ and screen size and don't focus on specs.

If the PQ looks great, no need to worry about specs.

*I see blurring of panning shots on IMAX 3D, Real 3D & standard theaters so this is not just a home projector issue/observation.
The only cure for this appears to be FI enabled in 3D, which is currently not available/used in commercial projectors but I've heard the new Hobbit movie is being filmed in 48fps to cater to those who like smooth panning & the soap opera effect.
Peter Jackson and other directors are pushing for this frame rate to become the standard as well.

You call a 80" flat panel a "peanut". Consumer Reports calls it monster-sized LCD TV. Who is right? Do the strong opinions on forums offer a balanced perspective?
http://news.consumerreports.org/elec...ewmongous.html

I represent the other 99% of consumers seeking reliability, performance and value. Recently I saw a senior buy an 80" Sharp at the warehouse club. Once the panel is mounted on the wall it should be worry free for many years.

Several other important areas for consumers to compare are:
1) energy consumption - 400 watts vs 40 watts!
2) fan noise
3) daytime 3D viewing
4) full color resolution: Only Kris Deering has discussed the poor measured chroma resolution of Epson projectors
5) 1080 lines of static and motion resolution. No lens aberrations, focus or registration issues
6) no rainbows
7) firmware updates over Ethernet
8) ceiling mount is a pain compared to wall mount

BTW the bigger the speaker, the worse the soundstage and imaging