JVC RS 45 / Sony HW30 / BenQ W7000 / Epson 5010 mini-shootout - Page 99

I'm in Columbus,Ga just 125 miles south of you.

I should have known!

Would love to get a report on this one when you get a minute.

Thanks!

BenQ W7000 or Epson 5010?

I had all but decided I was going to get an Epson 5010...but now I'm waivering.

All of my projectors have been DLPs. My last was an Acer H7531D. It had a pretty good picture, but the contrast ratio was lacking IMO. The variable iris drastically improved the contrast, but it was too slow and very noisey.

I am not sensitive to RBE. I'll be having a 150 inch 1.0-1.1 gain acoustically transparent screen. I'll watch 95% 2D with about 5% 3D. The projector is going between my first and second row and be ceiling mounted in a completly dark, light controlled home theater. The W7000 is about $500 less than the 5010. I'd like great blacks, but is $500 more for the 5010, worth it? I want a quiet fan and quiet auto iris (if present).

Is the W7000 and/or the 5010 great with blacks? How about auto iris speeds? Iris or fan Noisey?

W7000 is about $2200 and the 5010 is about $2700. I don't want to go above $3000.

Please share your opinions.
Edited by JeffreyJonesBSME - 8/27/12 at 10:17am

I'm basically looking at the same thing- except I'm going to run a 120" screen and my choice also includes the JVC.

So far, most of the pro installers have shied me away from the BenQ, and most are recommending either the Epson or the JVC.

I watch 99% 2D, with 75% of that football amd basketbal via DirecTV. The other 25% is BluRay movies.

The W7000 has been under $2k on Amazon lately, but comes with no 3D glasses.

If contrast is a major priority I'd definitely go with the Epson. I've owned two Epson 1080p projectors in the past. Their iris is much better than BenQ's and most other brands out there. Only Sony and Runco seem to implement a better iris in most of their projectors. You'll be shocked at how much black levels are compared to what you have now.

Amazon prices:

W7000: $1970
5010: $2800

So the difference is $830.

The 5010 has blacker blacks. Some are saying the auto iris is very quick and quiet. Is the auto iris on the W7000 bad?

What more do I get for $830?

You get....

-more lag
-more ghosting
-more flicker



Seriously though, I have not seen either. They both sound like great projectors and which one would be better depends on the usage/goals I would assume.

Dear Customer,
Greetings from Amazon.co.uk, 8/26/2012

We are writing to let you know that the following item has been sent
to:
My Address
United States

using Royal Mail.
--
Then they sent me three more emails documenting i was refunded 0.68cents. Not bad for $26
Now Amazon uk is out of stock. The US release is scheduled for late this year with Oprah to narrate yet once again.

We are at the point where there at too many overseas Blu-ray releases to ignore. At better prices too.
I can use AnyDvdHD which lets me set the region.
But the frame rate will be a good test of my playback gear.

B&H is $2600 shipped for the 5010, so the difference (from very reputable dealers) is currently $630. For that amount you get an extra year of warranty with 2-day replacement for the 5010, better blacks & contrast, more placement flexibility, and a minimal amount of ghosting/flicker (probably the best non-DLP 3D from what I've read). Having said that, $630 is a nice chunk of change, which is why I'm leaning towards the W7000. A 3-yr squaretrade warranty can be purchased for about $200, so you're still looking at over $400 difference for the improvements in black and contrast and the minor 3D deficiencies of the 5010. While no one would sneeze at $400 in savings, it really does come down to what is more important to you, blacks/contrast or 3D/Calibrated Brightness?
Edited by dougri - 8/29/12 at 10:23am

I realize that the thread deals with the current W7000 model, but I have a chance to buy the W6000, which for all intents and purposes is the same as the W7000 for 2D. I appreciate any advice.

It's great to read the many informative posts here. I started out on the projector route a few weeks ago. I am currently debating sending an HD33 back for a W6000 which is on sale at a local store for $1499. I only watch 2D at night with no lights on, however, the ceiling is white, the walls a darker shade. I know the room can be improved, and I plan on doing so eventually. If someone can help address the following issues for me, it would be appreciated:

1) Maintenance.

I was reading about how the panasonic LCD projectors are prone to dust issues and that regularly cleaning is needed. What are the maintenance issues with the W6000?

2) Too Bright?

I will be projecting unto an 80" screen. I sit 8 feet away and the projector will be in the 11 to 14 ft range. I am concerned that I will not be able to dial down the brightness of this unit to conform to standard THX standards for movies. Is making it less bright as simple as turning on eco mode, and dialing down the brightness?

3) Bang for the buck?

I noticed that the DLP HD33 is more pleasing to my eyes than the LCD Epson 8350 in terms of sharpness and colors. Since I'm aiming for optimized 2D viewing, and sharpness, pop, and blacks are most important for me, are there other projectors that I could be considering as well. The JVC receive almost universal praise, but I'd be looking at over twice the cost at current prices. Will the W6000 get me most of the way for the blacks (in my less than perfect room), and is it the greatest bang for the buck deal currently.

I thank you sirs.

I came from a JVC RS40 to the Benq w7000 onto a 106 inch 16X9 and I like the W7000 for the most part. I just sent back my W7000 and the replacement should be here tomorrow, I noticed that the image was what I would call vibrating/shaking very slightly when I was up close to the screen.
As far as black levels JVC is better BUT W7000 is respectable, BUT brightness easily the W7000 wins and I like a bright picture. As far as it being too bright you can dial it down and over time the lamp dims so I wouldn't worry too much about this. The only other issue I had was the W7000's lens shift is far more limited than the JVC. I have not tried the 3D on the W7000 yet.

If I may ask the vibrating image is it when frame interpolation is turned on whether it be on low mid or high? also have you tried overscan settings. I've also noticed the sort of vibrating image, my setting distance is about 11' from the screen. As far as the blacks you are wright dear sir they aren't too bad quite livable to me also. What I have noticed is that if frame interpolation is set to off the pop of the image goes away, and also this unit dosn't do well with reg DVD's images look washed, but with blue-ray you just can't beet it. except for the frame interpolation. The projector looks like a common LED consumer TV, not what you would expect from a hi end projector.

You say with blu-ray, the image can't be beat, then that it's no better than a common LED. Not sure I understand the seeming contradiction,

I meant that with the frame interpolation on it gives the image the sort of 3d POP but with artifacts just like the reg consumers LED TV's. Don't get me wrong its an enjoyable image, but the artifacts is a bit overwhelming.

someone with a 5010.... can you do me a favor I need an opinion from a gamer / movie lover... I play a lot of RPG's and as of late a lot of HALO again... I know that the 5010 has a split screen capability but I haven't seen anyone post pics of it... For example 4 player co-op Halo 3 so you would need to xbox's (one running on componet) screen size I am looking for overall is around 130" so in split screen would be approx. 65" x2..lol want to know performance wise if it suffers... I hear that movies look great and that for avid gamers the lag is to much but, if you are the casual gamer who can adjust does it matter as much..... PLEASE IF SOMEONE CAN HELP DO!!!! Thanks

The question now may be the BenQ W7000 or the Epson 5020?

Since the Epson 5020 is supposed to get an increase in contrast and since the DI now works in 3D how this will compare to the BenQ. The price for the 5020 will be $2599. Not sure if FI will work in 3D or not.

I was just reading about the 5020. 320,000:1 Contrast ratio, 2 pairs of free 3D glasses.
Plus, up to 6000 hours on the bulb. (W7000 is up to 2500)
The money I'll save replacing bulbs makes the 5020 the better deal.

Epson: 2 year warranty
Benq: 1 year warranty


I think we have a winner!

I'll be waiting on the Epson 5020.

I think it depends on your goals. If you are looking for a single projector solution that will do well with everything, I think the Epson makes more sense.

Now if your goal is a 2nd 3d only type unit and you already have a good 2d projector, the 100% ghost and flicker free 7000 seems like a no brainer.

I have a RS45 right now that kicks ass at 2d movies so I am planning on adding the 7000 for 3d/gaming.

I know, I know........I am all talk right now. If you keep posting pictures like that though, it will get me off the fence!


That scene is very impressive! I am still amazed every time I see that little Acer at my friends house from a ghosting/flicker standpoint. Material that would just send my 40/45 running for cover does not even phase that little DLP. Games, 2d to 3d conversion, the tough blu rays like Patagonia, etc......they are all just rock solid on a DLP.

People sure weren't happy to hear that message when the RS-40 first came out almost two years ago. I still duck every time I hear a car backfire. For 3D DLP is great for flicker free and ghost free images. The big problem for DLP now is that there are currently 3D projectors that are brighter, have much better black levels and for the most part are ghost free. If JVC where to get its 3D right they could dominate this sector of the market. If the new Epson lives up to its potential based on last year's unit, but with active DI in 3D and some other improvements, then I'll be tempted.

No doubt. The Epson sounds great as well. I really need to see one because even though I have heard the ghosting is much better, I still have a hard time believing it will be enough for really tough material such as games. Gaming in particular seems to be a absolute torture test for these non DLPs from my experience, especially once you max out that damn depth slider that some of these games have.

Have you gamed at all on your 5010 DejaVu and if so, how bad is the ghosting in your opinion? This is where I suspect DLP will still have a noticeable advantage. There is still the flicker issue as well. I have read enough people mention still seeing flicker on the Epsons, Pannys, Sonys, etc.........flicker drives me nuts almost as much as ghosting now!

I will say if I did not already have a 45 and was looking for a single projector solution, I think the Epson is clearly in the front running right now, especially with reports that they have improved the lag issue. This is another area JVC continually drops the ball each year. People have been bitching about the lag for years now and no improvements have been made.

Barring specific 3D torture discs, is the BenQ that much better than the Epson? Considering that the new Epson's DI will be active in 3D? Not sure if FI will be active in 3D or not. If the new Epson's black level were close enough the JVC I'd consider selling it and getting an Epson. Only movies for me but the RS45 is great at 2D but not so great with 3D.

From what I've read on the 5020 is the same 5010 but with the addition of better contrast which I must admit should make it awesome, DI it seams like epson's version of FI. The LCD panels are the same 480hz which will render the same flicker and ghosting just like the 5010. Unlike DLP 10,000hz that render a zero flicker and zero ghosting seams like a no brainer. If anyone wants a clean 3D image then DLP wins the battle. As per Zombie 10K whith the wright glasses and better screen the W7000 gives plenty of light, Black level is acceptable I think, not like the JVC, Epsons and Sony's but still acceptable. Which brings me to a quest has anyone tried any other 3D glasses that eliminate the red 3D link tint and provides good light output Besides true depth and optima glasses? I've tried the Xpands 102, they blocked too much light and the red tint was still visible.

I watched Giants of Patagonia last night and saw only two short scenes with some ghosting -- and I was looking for ghosting! I used dynamic mode with the glasses at their brightest setting. I've tamed dynamic mode a little so I may have lost a few lumens, but this thing is very bright in 3D. I'll try Dinosaurs Alive -- now that's a real torture test. For movies I'm not seeing enough problems to complain. I'm used to DLP for 3D so if I'm seriously thinking of the Epson 6020 then I'm not having ghosting problems. I still haven't moved the pj back to the shelf I had it on when I noticed more ghosting because I'm too damn lazy and I'm afraid to tinker with something that is working for me. If it isn't broken don't fix it! My theory is that the more horizontal and vertical adjustment you use the more ghosting, but I'm probably out to lunch here. Anyway, DLP for 3D and gaming is like an insurance policy -- it's just going to work 100%. If I can get nearly zero ghosting and better black levels with mega brightness then I'll take the Epson. Life is all about compromise -- what else is new.

Have you played any games on the Epson 5010 and if so, how was the ghosting? Does the flicker bother you at all on the Epson? I am finding flicker more and more annoying as time goes on and this is another advantage to DLP it seems from my experience with the Acer.

The biggest disadvantage with DLP is the lost of light output and the red DLP link, both which should be remedied with the correct glasses. True depth and Optima seam to be the best at handling the artifact but I hope others shine in with their findings!!!!

I highly recommend the latest Asus 7750 HTPC video card for their "Super Alloy Power" feature among other reasons,
It made a noticeable improvement in both picture and sound quality over last years equivalent or competing cards which use the 7750.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121633