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JVC RS 45 / Sony HW30 / BenQ W7000 / Epson 5010 mini-shootout - Page 103

post #3061 of 3271
On the other note what do you think I should pickup first the screen or the AVR... I guess its going both ways the AVR will drop in price im sure and is it a good idea to order a screen if you are not sure what projector you are getting still..
post #3062 of 3271
If you have a blank wall, I prefer the wall at first to then decide how big of a screen you use. If you do not have a blank wall, then you need the screen, but I don't think it really matters. I am the type of person that cannot sit there with an unopened box for months and just build a theater, I'm opening the box within 15 seconds of UPS delivering it, regardless of what it is. I don't know how some people have such grand patience. I have never really "built" a home theater, I have instead found cheaper ways of doing the same things others do for REAL money, no I am not poor, but I am also not rich and still trying to save up to buy that HOTEL (only half kidding). Ask me about mounting 5 projectors, I'll say the wire-grid shelves at Walmart for $80, stuff like that.
Edited by coderguy - 9/16/12 at 2:08am
post #3063 of 3271
Lol good idea.. I mean hey i seen on the news they were replacing the bible in some hotels with that shades of grey book lol.. So why not just put in your own Projector bible hahah..

Ya by no mean I dont have all high end stuff and the room is not going to look like many of these peoples rooms but I am taking it step by step because I dont have all the money to throw out at once but I wish I did.. I have a thread going in the Dedicated Theater build section on my stuff. Some pictures of the progress and so forth..

I painted my ceiling and projector wall flat black already and built a stage and carpeted it black... So the downstairs is not being used at all its just waiting to be complete.. I still have other things to tend to as well like my side and rear speakers dont sit that high and I would like to get them off the ground and up..

I got a amazing deal on the Martin Logan Motion 10s. I bought 4 of them brand new for 425 bucks... So that will be setup for sides and rears.. My fronts are 2 Martin Logan Motion 12s and I have a Martin Logan Motion C center channel. .By no means these aint the high end ML speakers. But for what I paid for them I think it will beat anything in its price range.. I was buying a speaker at a time about a year ago and I finally have my 7.2 Setup now.. Its with 2 Martin Logan Dynamo 500 subs... They aint the best subs but for 200 bucks a piece brand new I couldnt go wrong... .
post #3064 of 3271
Sounds like some decent HT speakers (but I know nothing about speakers), instead I followed some questionable advice and paid $1500 for Infinity speakers, which are not HT rated.

I will eventually build some fancy room out to look like some of the AMAZING rooms I've seen in here, but I'm too indecisive to make such permanent design decisions at the moment.
Edited by coderguy - 9/16/12 at 2:08am
post #3065 of 3271
I hear you I have a very hard time making a final decision as well.. .Lol you and zombie both probably know that by now.. .What city are you in now? My speakers are probably not fully rated for home theater but they are pretty good even though I have not even heard them yet.. They been sitting around for almost a year.. I was buying like 1 speaker at a time... Now I have them all atleast...
post #3066 of 3271
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holiday121 View Post

Lol good idea.. I mean hey i seen on the news they were replacing the bible in some hotels with that shades of grey book lol.. So why not just put in your own Projector bible hahah..
Ya by no mean I dont have all high end stuff and the room is not going to look like many of these peoples rooms but I am taking it step by step because I dont have all the money to throw out at once but I wish I did.. I have a thread going in the Dedicated Theater build section on my stuff. Some pictures of the progress and so forth..
I painted my ceiling and projector wall flat black already and built a stage and carpeted it black... So the downstairs is not being used at all its just waiting to be complete.. I still have other things to tend to as well like my side and rear speakers dont sit that high and I would like to get them off the ground and up..
I got a amazing deal on the Martin Logan Motion 10s. I bought 4 of them brand new for 425 bucks... So that will be setup for sides and rears.. My fronts are 2 Martin Logan Motion 12s and I have a Martin Logan Motion C center channel. .By no means these aint the high end ML speakers. But for what I paid for them I think it will beat anything in its price range.. I was buying a speaker at a time about a year ago and I finally have my 7.2 Setup now.. Its with 2 Martin Logan Dynamo 500 subs... They aint the best subs but for 200 bucks a piece brand new I couldnt go wrong... .

Nice setup! I used to be all in on the speakers and audio gear. I've owned more of that stuff than I can remember. In the future I plan on setting up another system. I had some Martin Logan SL3's a couple of years ago. I really enjoyed them!
post #3067 of 3271
I still have not heard my setup yet.... But I cannot wait... Thats why I am so tempted to pick up a AVR real soon but I guess I keep trying to get the best deal.. Most say go with a Denon 4311 or a Onkyo 818... But im not sure If I will hear a 500-800 dollar difference in the AVRS... I never owned any equipment like this before so not sure what to even expect.. But I hear that my MLs are some pretty nice speakers
post #3068 of 3271
I always heard in here that the AVR makes almost no sound difference, although I have personally noticed some are BASSIER than others, but I have mostly owned cheaper AVR's (my refurbished JVC purely digital AVR caught on fire, literally, but it was a model known to have that issue, you think we have it bad with these projectors, at least they do not catch on fire). I now have an older Pioneer 7.1 from about 5 years ago with no HDMI (Pio 8xx something or another, almost bought a new AVR several times, but figured why bother).... I use an HDMI matrix switch and then the switch has a Digital Audio Output on it that goes to the AVR (which I am probably losing some sound quality due to that, some say yay, some say nay). I am only 5.1 at the moment, so guess it doesn't matter too much.

I am more about the video and less about the audio, although one day I will become more about both,
post #3069 of 3271
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

The black levels on the w7000 are a disappointment. That said, it appears there might be some unit variations in how much light is leaking inside the optics (and outside) of different Benq's causing different contrast ratios. The highest measured was 2,200:1, the lowest I saw measured was 500:1. Given the fact that one person has also reported a broken lens assembly, noisy IRIS's, extra light leaking more than others, etc... I would venture to guess the native on/off is somewhere in the 800:1 to 1500:1 range on average depending on unit variance possibly (again I am not saying for certain).
I often see red tint on new DLP's, that usually wears off after 500 hours on the lamp. The same red tint is there somewhat on the Mitsubishi hc3800, hc4000, and even more so on the Viewsonic Pro8200. It was so bad on the Pro8200 the first 300 hours that I literally had to watch the image much much cooler than normal until the lamp wore in, now after some lamp wear I have no red tint at all.
The Optoma hd8300 was likely actually the best 3D projector this year while still holding relatively ok black levels (>2,500:1 Native on/off, and > 10,000:1+ with the IRIS), but they just priced it wrong and the only buyers were mostly on the refurb market. Other than going with an LCOS or LCD, then the only other one with decent blacks would be the Acer 9500bd, but the IRIS is a tad bouncy, but with the 1:1 pixel mapping fix the Acer seems like a good deal if it is bright enough in 3D for a person's setup and if they are not too RBE sensitive..
I got the same thing Kris did: 500-600:1 native and about 1800:1 with the DI.
post #3070 of 3271
Ya I hear ya... My speakers are not a new model so I am sure when a Receiver like the Denon 3312 came out everyone was praising it like they are doing now with the Denon 4311. Accessories 4 less has some nice prices on some of those models refurbished but from what I have read most people have very good experience with them... I was almost to the point of going to best buy and purchasing both AVRS and listening to them to see if I hear a difference..

I mean 500-800 dollar savings in that is a big amount in my opinon and can be put towards something of more use if the sound difference isnt that dramatic.. In which I dont think it is going to be..

What I think I am going to end up doing is Getting a Onky 818 AVR ... Is has the X32 software in it for calibration as the Denon 4311 but does not have the dual sub eq... I mean in the long is it really worth paying for the extra sub to be eq'd worth almost 600 dollars more... To some maybe ya but to me I honestly dont think I am going to be able to tell a difference...

Then on the other hand I can get a 3312 for 599 with the XT correction software. Its the software lower then the x32 in the denon 4311 and onkyo 818... That would save me 200 more dollars.. But I am thinking take the chance and spend the extra 200 and it might pay off in the long run..


I would rather have better video as well.. Thats why I been trying to read as much about screens as possible because my local shop said spend more on a projector and not a screen. But from reading on here if you have a cheap screen it could make the image worse
post #3071 of 3271
Quote:
Originally Posted by TomHuffman View Post

I got the same thing Kris did: 500-600:1 native and about 1800:1 with the DI.

I hear you, that is true, so maybe it is low, well I'm trying to look at the glass half full (based on some other measurements). Obviously not doubting your measurement, just saying a few others have measured higher for whatever reason (whether it be their defective equipment, invalid techniques, less light leakage, who knows).

@Holiday121
I'm sort of biased when it comes to screens, I like the Da-Lite High Power 2.4 gain screen for the cost/brightness benefit. It doesn't fit every situation however, but I am too much of an HP fanboy to really give any detailed screen recommendations I suppose (or at least I get called that).
Edited by coderguy - 9/15/12 at 9:57pm
post #3072 of 3271
I was recommended a 1.18 carada screen or something for a jvc rs45... What does the 2.4 do? And what does it do bad in certain situations
post #3073 of 3271
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=21920823#post21920823

This next one is a tad bit inflammatory (people had been insulting the HP screen for a week straight, and I finally partially lost my cool in this thread)...
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1377321/official-epson-powerlite-home-cinema-5010-6010-thread/2160#post_22248006
post #3074 of 3271
Ok well I just took the time to read that whole thing... I actually shut my press off to read it and the supervisor was not to happy.. I am not even suppose to be on the computer and the internet here is not suppose to be even aloud to go on this site... Haha but it is now and I am taking advantage of it otherwise I would be on my iphone and since there is no more app for this site IT SUCKS..

Ok first off I dont know crap about screens... But your post had alot of good information.. I like the fact of the screen being brighter and would rather have it that way.. But on the other hand you got into how you mount it to make up the differences and all of that I DO NOT know about.. I never even hung a projector before or a screen so when I finally end up doing this for the first time I am not sure if that screen would be a good choice for me.... Actually I am not even sure what screen would and how to set the focus and distance back and all of that...

If it was your first time setting up a projector and you took it out the box is it really hard to set it up when mounting or putting it on a shelf? I see all these calculators and get so confused. I will be sitting 10-12 feet back probably 12 and can mount it 12-16 feet back... Or I nmight be able to shelf mount it at around 15-16 feet back... I have the power ran in the ceiling already because I thought the ceiling was the best way to mount it... MY room is completely blacked out no light when the projector will be on... The Da lite high power sounds real nice but I am worried about what you are saying to bright at first and adjustinig the hieght.. Do you mean too bright like someone is flashing a flashlight in your face or just the colors on the screen are on the high side... I love the LED bright look of tvs.. I have a 70 inch sharp led i enjoy in my living room...
post #3075 of 3271
It's harder to ceiling mount slightly, but you don't need to be a great handy man to do it as long as the outlet and support beam is there already. It does help to have 2 people to do the job so you don't have to keep climbing up and down the ladder and what not.

Ceiling mounting is generally more aesthetically pleasing and gets the projector more out of the way, but with the HP screen which requires the projector to be positioned a bit lower, then shelf mounting can be better and more convenient for the HP screen (but it depends). The reason I personally shelf mount is because I do not have a super permanent setup and I sometimes rotate projectors, and I don't like moving ceiling mounts every time I upgrade. Besides, with the HP screen you have to use a long drop-pole to get it low enough to get most of the gain working for you, so in that case ceiling mounting doesn't really become that much more aesthetically pleasing. I also like the fact that one Shelf # 4 of my wire shelves I get say 2.0 gain, and on shelf # 5 I get 1.8 and on Shelf # 6 I get 1.6 (I can drop the PJ lower as the brightness fades). I am all about functionality and not about aesthetics, so I can't really say my thinking works for everyone.

Too bright is unlikely unless you mount the PJ right next to your head or unless you get a cheapo mount without an adjustable pole, so too bright isn't really an issue at all in the case of the HP screen. I guess it can be an issue if you want to mount it on a shelf at one particular location with no other shelves to move the PJ too, but even then most PJ's have DIMMER modes you can use in low lamp to make it not a big issue (there are some cases where it can be too bright, not saying it never will, but usually no).
Edited by coderguy - 9/15/12 at 11:05pm
post #3076 of 3271
Its actually a pretty good concept and give you full control of it.. But I personally dont think I can go this way.. I would have to cut out some more shelves into my wall to do this.. I like the Idea of projector being lower and being on shelves though.. But this would not make it with the center of my room because there is a door in that area where it would have to go.. And another question with all the bass and things in these rooms does it cause and jumping when the projectors are on shelves? i like the concept of the whole thing and maybe might have to work around it to get it to work for me.

The main thing is 2 things for screen for me Idk if I want 16:9 or 2.35. And the maker.. I am not sure if I want to fork out 1k for a screen..
post #3077 of 3271
You can buy a wall mount for the PJ as well, or ceiling mount the PJ with an adjustable pole, or even an adjustable wall mount maybe, either way. Shelves aren't necessary to mount the PJ lower. The bass shouldn't really cause it to bounce, there are absorbing materials you can put underneath the PJ to help with that, but mainly if someone slams a door or is walking upstairs above it would it shake (that can be an issue with ceiling mounts too however, so a good one will have some absorption if mounted correctly).

You can get dropdown Da-Lite HP screens for really cheap, but the fixed screens which are more aesthetically pleasing are going to cost more (but not necessarily even $1000, depending on the size and the model you choose). I'm not saying you should buy the HP screen, but it just depends. OK I gotta take a break from this thread, I think I'm overdoing it today (catching up after a 3-week hiatus).
post #3078 of 3271
Ok I guess I will get back to work and do some more reading.. I definately want a fixed frame though... I cant even find a price on a Hp 2.4 Screen anyways. .I am sure we will talk again and appreciate all the good info... Have a good night I still got 5 hours of work left Night shift errr 7pm to 7am...
post #3079 of 3271
I know the feeling, I should be working on some software, but after 3 weeks with only one a couple days off, not going to happen tonight.
post #3080 of 3271
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

Micca E950 & HiMedia 900b (same parent manufacturer but the 950 has a hardware mod for correct framerate in 3D mode).

This is one of my favorites toys in the HT. very cheap in cost too.

MICCAEP950.jpg

MICCAEP950-1.jpg

Actually, I read over the Micca 950 forum that the framerate for the 3D is set to 24fps instated of 23.976. ??? A firmware in due in a couple of months to resolve that...

Do you see any judder or frame skip when watching 3D?
post #3081 of 3271
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RickAVManiac View Post

Actually, I read over the Micca 950 forum that the framerate for the 3D is set to 24fps instated of 23.976. ??? A firmware in due in a couple of months to resolve that...

Do you see any judder or frame skip when watching 3D?

I've read the discussions about it, I can only tell you my experience. I've used the Micca 950 with the following equipment:

  • JVC RS55
  • Sony HW30
  • BenQ W7000
  • Pioneer SC-07
  • Pioneer SC-68
  • Denon 4311
  • Darbee Vision Darblet


I'ved played back countless 3D iso's on these systems and have never seen any frame skipping. This device is one of the quickest ways to scramble through your digital library. Playback is nearly instant, no menus to deal with, just the beginning of the movie (2D or 3D) when I want it.

It's perfect for what I'm looking to do.. quick, random access playback of my BD library.
post #3082 of 3271
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by RickAVManiac View Post

Actually, I read over the Micca 950 forum that the framerate for the 3D is set to 24fps instated of 23.976. ??? A firmware in due in a couple of months to resolve that...

Do you see any judder or frame skip when watching 3D?

I've read the discussions about it, I can only tell you my experience. I've used the Micca 950 with the following equipment:

  • JVC RS55
  • Sony HW30
  • BenQ W7000
  • Pioneer SC-07
  • Pioneer SC-68
  • Denon 4311
  • Darbee Vision Darblet


I'ved played back countless 3D iso's on these systems and have never seen any frame skipping. This device is one of the quickest ways to scramble through your digital library. Playback is nearly instant, no menus to deal with, just the beginning of the movie (2D or 3D) when I want it.

It's perfect for what I'm looking to do.. quick, random access playback of my BD library.

Great !

This media player is on my short list and if it work for you, it will work for me... smile.gif
post #3083 of 3271
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

Playback is nearly instant, no menus to deal with, just the beginning of the movie (2D or 3D) when I want it.

So you can just like pick the file out of a file directory and then play the movie?
post #3084 of 3271
A really strange thing happened 30 minutes ago... With my Xbox and HW30 projector.

I purchased the Coraline 3D bluray from Amazon UK (it was a good deal). I got around to watching 20 minutes of it today...

Once the 3D started, my Xbox kept turning on and opening/closing the caddy! I would turn it off, and it would turn back on and start opening/closing the caddy!

I've watched many 3D blurays before and never had this happen. No changes to my equipment...

Anyone heard of such a crazy thing?

(I eventually unplugged the xbox 360 from the wall...)

... Altan
post #3085 of 3271
My fault for not being more clear...

I'm using a PS3 as the BD player...
The Xbox isn't even used in this situation...
It's acting like the IR emitted from the HW30 3D transmitter, when playing a BD on the PS3, is causing the Xbox to turn on and open/close the drawer.

Strange stuff.
post #3086 of 3271
Well, does the hw30 use IR for 3d (I forget), then I guess that is the issue, the IR is interfering and catching it. I've had some remotes control multiple devices before (and not on purpose). Electronics can be intermittent for some reason, otherwise I vote possession.
post #3087 of 3271
I was about to say the xbox360 does not even play bluray movies.. Is this your first Uk region bluray that you have tried? If so then maybe trying another region free disk like this to see if the same situation occurs
post #3088 of 3271
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holiday121 View Post

I was about to say the xbox360 does not even play bluray movies..
I was going to say that too but all I did was LOL. Wanted someone else to point that out. Too many irons in the fire. To his credit, I believe he really is trying to help people so no worries.
post #3089 of 3271
Apparently you are still sore from the other thread.
Edited by coderguy - 9/16/12 at 8:13pm
post #3090 of 3271
Lol coderguy needs a vacation. another 12 hours of work tonight 7pm to 7am
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