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Redskinema - Nearing completion! - Page 17

post #481 of 605
I like the color combination/placement exactly the way it is now, but since there is a possibility that you might get some unwanted reflections of the vanilla fabric that is closest to the screen, you might hold off on the trim in that area until you get a chance to project an image. If you had to change it to black, it would be pretty easy to do without having to mess with the trim. (I'm referring to the vanilla panel that sits between the false wall and 1st column).

It might be fine just the way it is, since your screen is slightly recessed. Just wanted to throw it out there.
post #482 of 605
Thread Starter 
What would the consequence be of having the refelctions? What should I be looking for? I dont really have much/any experience in home theaters to know what the impact of the reflections would be.
post #483 of 605
Light could reflect off the lighter fabric and back onto the screen, washing out your image. In addition to compromising image quality, those areas may become a visible distraction that competes with the actual screen image. The darker the front of the room is, the better.

It may not be a problem. You just might want to test it first before you trim out the area between screen and first column.
post #484 of 605
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Light could reflect off the lighter fabric and back onto the screen, washing out your image. In addition to compromising image quality, those areas may become a visible distraction that competes with the actual screen image. The darker the front of the room is, the better.

It may not be a problem. You just might want to test it first before you trim out the area between screen and first column.

Lets hope the ~5 inches its recessed and the ~ 12 inches of the front stage corner columns are enough to prevent the reflections. I can't see my self making 1/3 of the room just all black.
post #485 of 605
Thread Starter 
Ok back from Colorado for work.

A carpet installer is coming over tomorrow to look at it.

I'm going to get the fabric done this weekend. I need to clean the basement...not going to me fun... I need to get a door and put it in, again... Indeed to paint the molding.

I'm hoping to get the carpet put in next Friday.

And I think then next Monday I'd like to take off and get the screen and lens up!!

I have the door for the equipment room so that can go up after I clean. Then I'd feel comfortable building shelves and getting equipment put in!!
post #486 of 605
My carpet guy just left. $2400 installed on the Milliken - Traces, 8lb pad and 14'x21' room.

Are you going to do pattern carpet on the stage?
post #487 of 605
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScAndal View Post

My carpet guy just left. $2400 installed on the Milliken - Traces, 8lb pad and 14'x21' room.

Are you going to do pattern carpet on the stage?

Do you have pics?!? If so please post them. I checked your thread too and didnt see them there.

I wont know my final price until I get quotes from installers, but I paid about 1000 for the carpet and a 40 oz (9.5lb density) synthetic pad (recommended for acoustics, I cant say why but its what Bryan Pape told me to do. He actually said jute but the synthetic I think is the same) and 170 to ship it to my door. So I'm at 1170 but about the same amount of carpet. I think I ordered 33 yards of the carpet and 40 yards of the pad.

I didnt like the local places that had my carpet, so now I have to try and find a good installer. The installer database doesnt have anyone near me.

The plan is to make the stage the same. i was originally going to make it black but I couldnt find any carpets that I thought matched close enough. I might have been being too anal but like you, ill try it with the pattern first and go from there. I think it'll look good.

Again, please please post pics!! Especially close up where your steps are.
post #488 of 605
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScAndal View Post

My carpet guy just left. $2400 installed on the Milliken - Traces, 8lb pad and 14'x21' room.

Are you going to do pattern carpet on the stage?

Did you lift up your base molding or have it flush with the floor? I cant tell from your pic
post #489 of 605
Quote:
Originally Posted by SKINSnCANES View Post


Do you have pics?!? If so please post them. I checked your thread too and didnt see them there.

I wont know my final price until I get quotes from installers, but I paid about 1000 for the carpet and a 40 oz (9.5lb density) synthetic pad (recommended for acoustics, I cant say why but its what Bryan Pape told me to do. 

 

Synthetic is the same.  It is made from recycled materials, but is the same.  Jute is an "old school" name and was actually originally made from horses hair.  

post #490 of 605
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

Synthetic is the same.  It is made from recycled materials, but is the same.  Jute is an "old school" name and was actually originally made from horses hair.  

Thanks smile.gif
post #491 of 605
Quote:
Originally Posted by SKINSnCANES View Post

Do you have pics?!? If so please post them. I checked your thread too and didnt see them there.

I wont know my final price until I get quotes from installers, but I paid about 1000 for the carpet and a 40 oz (9.5lb density) synthetic pad (recommended for acoustics, I cant say why but its what Bryan Pape told me to do. He actually said jute but the synthetic I think is the same) and 170 to ship it to my door. So I'm at 1170 but about the same amount of carpet. I think I ordered 33 yards of the carpet and 40 yards of the pad.

I didnt like the local places that had my carpet, so now I have to try and find a good installer. The installer database doesnt have anyone near me.

The plan is to make the stage the same. i was originally going to make it black but I couldnt find any carpets that I thought matched close enough. I might have been being too anal but like you, ill try it with the pattern first and go from there. I think it'll look good.

Again, please please post pics!! Especially close up where your steps are.

Sorry I meant to measure and estimate. This guy is really good but I'm going to have to way 3-4 weeks to have it installed frown.gif

I had to go with a specific rubber pad because my floor is heated. Yep the more I think about it, the more I'm happy with the idea to see the stage with the same carpet. I'll be curious to see how hard it is to pattern match.

I have my baseboards a little under 1/2" from the floor to allow the carpet installers to tuck under it.
post #492 of 605
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScAndal View Post

Sorry I meant to measure and estimate. This guy is really good but I'm going to have to way 3-4 weeks to have it installed frown.gif

I had to go with a specific rubber pad because my floor is heated. Yep the more I think about it, the more I'm happy with the idea to see the stage with the same carpet. I'll be curious to see how hard it is to pattern match.

I have my baseboards a little under 1/2" from the floor to allow the carpet installers to tuck under it.

You're lucky to know of a good installer! What state are you in?
post #493 of 605
Thread Starter 
well my carpet is confirmed to be delivered on Monday, but the company that I was going to have install it just backed out because of how busy they are... time to make some more phone calls.

I also just got a cold, in July. Its very annoying and makes it hard to be productive
post #494 of 605
Quote:
Originally Posted by SKINSnCANES View Post

You're lucky to know of a good installer! What state are you in?

I'm in Minnesota
post #495 of 605
Quote:
Originally Posted by SKINSnCANES View Post

well my carpet is confirmed to be delivered on Monday, but the company that I was going to have install it just backed out because of how busy they are... time to make some more phone calls.

I also just got a cold, in July. Its very annoying and makes it hard to be productive

Might want to check out angieslist.com and find some high ranked installers in your area
post #496 of 605
Thread Starter 
I just found an installer that can come next Friday. So thats the day I need to be ready for carpet! I dont know anything about the company but theyve been around for 75 years, installers each for 30 years. Hopefully thats a good sign. I asked about their experience with patterns and they said it wouldnt be an issue. So we'll see...

I might go back and add a rounded edge to the face of the steps to make the install easier. Ill go down there later and check out some options.
post #497 of 605
Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

Jute is an "old school" name and was actually originally made from horses hair.  

Actually, jute is a plant fiber that is still used for rope, etc. wink.gif

PS: I am an old guy, myself...
post #498 of 605
That's one of things my buddy the installer said....the synthetic LOOKS like jute and it gets called that all the time. You want to know if it's REALLY jute or a synthetic.
post #499 of 605
Quote:
Originally Posted by SKINSnCANES View Post

I just found an installer that can come next Friday. So thats the day I need to be ready for carpet! I dont know anything about the company but theyve been around for 75 years, installers each for 30 years. Hopefully thats a good sign. I asked about their experience with patterns and they said it wouldnt be an issue. So we'll see...

I might go back and add a rounded edge to the face of the steps to make the install easier. Ill go down there later and check out some options.

Are you going to put carpet pad on your stage?
post #500 of 605
Thread Starter 
My threads 500th post!!! and were talking about jute...lol

Well the carpet was delivered today. I'm still sick and havent been able to be very productive this weekend. I did some cleaning yesterday.

Carpet is still scheduled for Friday...hopefully Im ready for it! Meanwhile I have a very expensive garage of carpet, screens, and chairs!
post #501 of 605
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScAndal View Post

Are you going to put carpet pad on your stage?

yea I assume so, shouldnt I? Its a reflection point so it will provide more absorption. I was specifically told to carpet the stage, instead of it being wood, for absorption. I suppose I assumed with the pad but it makes sense that you would. Besides, I need it comfortable for karaoke night!
post #502 of 605
Quote:
Originally Posted by SKINSnCANES View Post

yea I assume so, shouldnt I? Its a reflection point so it will provide more absorption. I was specifically told to carpet the stage, instead of it being wood, for absorption. I suppose I assumed with the pad but it makes sense that you would. Besides, I need it comfortable for karaoke night!

Makes sense from absorption. I hadn't thought about that. My stage is too narrow to walk around, but makes sense to me to do it.
post #503 of 605
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScAndal View Post

Makes sense from absorption. I hadn't thought about that. My stage is too narrow to walk around, but makes sense to me to do it.

having a stage was one of the musts for me to sell the theater to the mrs. She and the neighbors are excited to have it do get up on and do karoke, and I assume if and when we have kids theyll enjoy it for plays or shows or whatever. Though its just big enough to cause trouble. Trouble being touching my screen or breaking the columns!
post #504 of 605
Thread Starter 
Anyone have any thoughts/knowledge about using steel exterior doors for a theater door, in terms of sound proofing? How do the rubber seals compare to a sound proofing door seal kit?
post #505 of 605
Quote:
Originally Posted by SKINSnCANES View Post

Anyone have any thoughts/knowledge about using steel exterior doors for a theater door, in terms of sound proofing? How do the rubber seals compare to a sound proofing door seal kit?

Steel door is generally not recommended. The STC rating is usually quite a bit lower than that of a solid core wood composite door. A 1 3/4'' solid core interior door with exterior seals is pretty good but your seals will be a pretty big weak point so it is better to step up to the Zero International perimeter seals and automatic door bottom.

I am planning on starting with a solid core Jeld Wen or Lynden door with an STC rating of somewhere around 32. It is $54 at HD. Then adding a layer or 2 of mdf with green glue between. I also have the "best" Zero International seals. Of course there are complications with hinges and door knobs if you go the thick and heavy route.

There is some pretty good discussion in the last 2 pages of my thread about that.

Possibly the cheapest way to go would be to have them take an interior solid core 1 3/4'' door and hang it in an exterior door frame with the perimeter seals. I am experimenting with various types of cheap perimeter seals for the exterior doors on both of my double "communicating" door systems. I just got a few different types of very thick seals and I will see what works best as soon as I can get them hung.

Here is an STC rating chart for some Jeld Wen doors. http://www.jeld-wen.com/professional/technical-documents/acoustic-ratings
Edited by jedimastergrant - 7/31/13 at 10:48am
post #506 of 605
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimastergrant View Post

Steel door is generally not recommended. The STC rating is usually quite a bit lower than that of a solid core wood composite door. A 1 3/4'' solid core interior door with exterior seals is pretty good but your seals will be a pretty big weak point so it is better to step up to the Zero International perimeter seals and automatic door bottom.

I am planning on starting with a solid core Jeld Wen or Lynden door with an STC rating of somewhere around 32. It is $54 at HD. Then adding a layer or 2 of mdf with green glue between. I also have the "best" Zero International seals. Of course there are complications with hinges and door knobs if you go the thick and heavy route.

There is some pretty good discussion in the last 2 pages of my thread about that.

Possibly the cheapest way to go would be to have them take an interior solid core 1 3/4'' door and hang it in an exterior door frame with the perimeter seals. I am experimenting with various types of cheap perimeter seals for the exterior doors on both of my double "communicating" door systems. I just got a few different types of very thick seals and I will see what works best as soon as I can get them hung.

Here is an STC rating chart for some Jeld Wen doors. http://www.jeld-wen.com/professional/technical-documents/acoustic-ratings

Thanks. I checked out your thread and subscribed too!

I found a door at home depot thats a commercial steal door. Its pretty heavy but I did more research and found out its hollow. I also spoke to Scott, getgrey, who gave me some tips based on his experience.

Ive been digging through older threads. Clearly this is a topic that has been discussed plenty of times. I'm debating if I want to just make my own door...ive never done it before but hey thats been the entire mantra of this build
post #507 of 605
Thread Starter 
I spent the better part of the last two days cleaning the basement. I emptied the shop vac twice and its due for a third... I got all the dust and saw dust out. Cleaned up the 2 million cuts of wood. I moved some of the wood to the garage and will do all future cutting there, or outside.

Heres the bar room, which was the cutting room.

LL

The pool table room...

LL

Equipment closet

LL

and since tomorrow is carpet day i figured id take the last of the old carpet out of hte basement

LL

This pic shows our full bath in the basement. I only took this picture because its been blocked by wood for months! One of these days ill take off the door and widen the frame. I dont know why they put such a tiny ass door up there

LL
post #508 of 605
Thread Starter 
and last but not least, tomorrow is the big day, carpet goes in!!!

That means I can put up my screen and lens this weekend, throw in a couple of the chairs, and stop working on the theater!!! lol ok not stop but at least start to enjoy all of the hard work ive done. Its gotta be usable for football!!

Heres the rolls that were delivered

LL



I threw the level down and was double checking everything tonight and realized that I was only doing the middle of the room before. THe middle had a solid inch dip in it. I realized the doorway was more than a half inch off, and was definitely noticeable. As was the area in between the far two columns. I really love that self leveling stuff. They did such a horrible job when they poured my basement that Im going to need a lot of it in the rest of the basement.

LL
post #509 of 605
Yeah, the door that Scott helped with that is linked in my thread is the real deal! The hinges and door knobs need to be considered beforehand with something that thick and heavy. The framing and door jamb are important as well of course. I made my jamb out of mdf which was a mistake. Not sure what I will do yet. I will be very interested to see what you come up with since I am currently wrestling with this one myself.

Very excited to see your fabric frames going up since that is my next big hurdle.
post #510 of 605
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jedimastergrant View Post

Yeah, the door that Scott helped with that is linked in my thread is the real deal! The hinges and door knobs need to be considered beforehand with something that thick and heavy. The framing and door jamb are important as well of course. I made my jamb out of mdf which was a mistake. Not sure what I will do yet. I will be very interested to see what you come up with since I am currently wrestling with this one myself.

Very excited to see your fabric frames going up since that is my next big hurdle.

I have the frames in the front all finished and one of the columns. Honestly, the fabric is really easy. Lyndsey and I knock them out pretty fast. We just haven't finished because I had to get everything clean for the carpet. And since Im going to start bringing in electronics,and the fabric is out, it should all be clean.

Though the big assumption is that you bought a pneumatic stapler. I couldn't imagine doing it without one. It was well worth the money. You dont realize how fast you can throw on 200 staples.

And my issue with the door is making sure I can fit handles on it. I want to come up with a clever way of doing it. I havent put a lot of thought into it yet though.
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