The Grove Theater and Basement Build - Page 6

Misugrad - Thanks for sharing. I like the 8' tall doors. They have quite a presence. That is one expensive door! I think if I went to the wife with numbers like that she might shut down all funding. It is a nice looking door though and I'm sure it serves to keep sound where it belongs very well.

For everyone's viewing pleasure here are the two doors I have been looking at.





Let me know what you think.

I plan to go with a painted door. I don't have any other stained wood in the house so I figured I would stay with the painted look. Thanks for the input Cuzed. I'm kinda leaning that way too.

Door quote update. Just got another quote back for 1 3/4" solid core doors. Same price range as the previous quote (within $6) but only a 3 week lead time. Also, they will install the kerfed stop with weather stripping on it while the other quote I received I would have had to swap out the door stop and install it myself. So I think I have found my supplier. Now I just need to be 100% on which style.

Thanks for that picture aaustin. I think I am leaning more towards getting the molded door with whatever design in it already. I know I am giving up some thickness but I may end up adding mass to the interior side of the door (like yours) and making up for some of the loss.

I opened up another can of worms talking to the door supplier. I have several core choices and very pricing to go with those. Here are my choices (these are for Masonite doors):

1) Safe 'N Sound - this is what he originally quoted me
2) Particle Board - add $12 to quoted price
3) Mineral Core (20 min fire rating) - add $20 to quoted price
4) Mineral Core (45 to 60 min fire rating) - add $120 to quoted price

He said that the particle board core is heavier than the safe 'n sound core which would help with mass. I also thougtht that I saw BIG write somewhere that the particle board core is a good choice. The mineral core I believe is the best but the 45 to 60 minute one is out of the question. I can't put that much money into doors. The 20 min one is intriguing. I wonder which of these cores provides the best mass/sound solution? Maybe Ted's out there and would have an opinion on this?? I would have never thought that picking the right door would be so difficult.

+1

I'm thinking about getting the best door (but not budget crippling) I can and see how it goes. Then if I feel like the door is a problem (or could be better) I will look to add mass to it.

adammb - You have a really nice looking room! My wife would love it. It looks so comfortable to watch movies in. I think I am foregoing the recliners for some comfy sofas as well. Plus, I am not the biggest fan of leather which is about the only way to get reasonably priced recliners.

Been kicking around the thought of 3 or 4 hinges on the doors. I'm thinking that if I go with 3 I will be fine as the door sits today (no matter which core type I choose). Should I ever need to add mass to the door then I may have to replace the hinges with some that are a little heavier duty. I think 4 hinges might be needed if I had a taller door.

Thanks Ted for stopping by! Hope to hear your opinion on the door discussion that has been going on today. Good info on adding MDF to a door. Here soon I will be putting that green glue I bought from you guys to use. Can't wait to see that stuff go up.

Ok, finally pulled the trigger on the theater and equipment room doors. Here are the specs:

3/0 x 6/8 Door
Masonite molded 2 panel Roman Smooth
- 1 3/4” thick
- Particleboard solid 20 minute fire rated core
- 7 7/16” poplar exterior jamb w/ Dbl rabbeeted stop-g-stop (kerfed with compression weatherstrip), no sill, no brick mold
- (3) 4 x 4 white hinges
- LH swing
- No bore (going to use a push plate and automatic door closer very similar to a real theater door)

2/8 x 6/8 Door
Masonite molded 2 panel Roman Smooth
- 1 3/4” thick
- Particleboard solid 20 minute fire rated core
- 7 7/16” poplar exterior jamb w/ Dbl rabbeeted stop-g-stop (kerfed with compression weatherstrip), no sill, no brick mold
- (3) 4 x 4 white hinges
- LH swing
- Standard Bore

Would have been cheaper to go with the safe 'n sound core but the particleboard weighed in nearly 50% heavier so I figured that would be my best option. I know I had talked about the mineral core but after many phone conversations I finally got the full clear picture on that particular core. It was the next step after what I got and came with a fire rating of 45/60 minutes. It was nearly twice as heavy as the safe 'n sound door but also came with a much higher premium than what I was given originally (quoted $120 additional just to go to the mineral core). In the end I had to choose the best option without spending obscene money. Decision made and now I have three weeks to get ready for them. Also pulled the trigger yesterday on a zero automatic door bottom for each one (and some more caulking to finish off the OSB).

I think I will be cracking the lid on some Green Glue this weekend! Excited to get some of this drywall up and out of my way.

For those who have used channel on the ceiling, how difficult is the second layer to hit the channels? I am a little worried because it was easy to strip the screw when I could see where I was going. Now it is a blind shot.

Thanks for following along. Yes, I am dissappointed that it is a pretty slow process. Also doesn't help that I have a new projector in the box starring me in the face every morning when I wake up. But it does serve as some pretty good motivation. Hang in there, I'll get this thing done as soon as possible. I have given myself an unofficial end date of September something. We'll see how I do.


I used 3/4" (or 23/32", whatever they want to call it) OSB for my first layer to try and keep the mass close to the same as 5/8" drywall.


Thanks for the hint. I agree that the extra time it takes to mark lines is a pain but giving yourself the best chance to succeed is worth it. I definitely want to make sure all that weight above my head stays there.


I think you are right about the OSB being a little more of a pain to get the screws through and knowing when to stop. On the ones around the edge that I could watch go in I noticed the screw would actually push the channel up away from the OSB and then, once the screw was fully in the OSB, it would start pulling the channel back down and tight against the OSB. Knowing this I tightened the screws a little longer to make sure that I was getting that channel nice and tight to the OSB. Hopefully now that the channel is attached to the OSB I shouldn't have to worry about the channel pushing up and I can use your advice and make it go a little quicker this time. Looking forward to getting some of this drywall up off the floor.

So a good weekend of work. Here is the pictorial update.

Popping the green glue cherry!


Started with small sheets...


And then on to some big dogs...




One bucket down, three more to go...


IB enclosure complete? Check! Time to start thinking about ordering (4) 18" IB3 subs!




Got a good portion of drywall up on the lower walls. Still a few pieces to go and then it is on to the ceiling. I put the small fill piece at the top because it will be covered by the soffits. Not too terribly worried about the drywall in here because it will all be covered with fabric frames. The ceiling will be the most important since it will be the only finished area that will be exposed. On to the pics.

Looking from the front right.


Looking from the front left.


Looking from the back left.


The entrance.


And lastly, looking at the IB enclosure from the entrance.


Feels good to have some drywall up on the walls but I still have a good ways to go. Oh, and an entire basement still to do. Gotta keep the eye on the small victories or this project could get to be overwhelming.

A visit from Chuck Norris, I feel so honored. It means a lot that he approves of my progress and it's his inspiration that provides that extra drive I need to keep pushing forward.