or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Home Entertainment & Theater Builder › Dedicated Theater Design & Construction › The Grove Theater and Basement Build
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

The Grove Theater and Basement Build - Page 26

post #751 of 1268
Vanice,
LOOKING GOOD! Nice catch on the bull-nose for the riser LEDs. Those columns are really shaping up nice.
I will also be following along closely on the rest of your speaker build, as I have just joined the DIY speaker "club" (pursuing some SEOS builds).
As you deal with the pre-carpet stress - remember to take time for an adult beverage and a deep breathe !!
post #752 of 1268
Great progress! And carpets on the way, that always makes a HUGE visual difference! I'm certainly envious of you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by vanice View Post

........
Then I spent the rest of my short work day on Saturday addressing the riser and turning it into a bass trap. This is phase one of my multi step plan to get ready for carpet on Friday. The plan was to cut slots along the back wall and cover with HVAC diffusers (one each joist cavity) and also cut various size holes in the front 2x12 of the riser (also one each joist cavity). Here are the slots along the back wall. These will be covered by 4x12 registers painted black..........
..............
And here is the front of the riser. I had a little fun with the shapes. smile.gif Specifications were various sizes (3" to 5") and one each joist cavity. These will be covered by carpet along the face of the riser.
.........

I think I missed it, but how did you decide on your riser/bass trap plan?
post #753 of 1268
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cuzed2 View Post

Vanice,
LOOKING GOOD! Nice catch on the bull-nose for the riser LEDs. Those columns are really shaping up nice.
I will also be following along closely on the rest of your speaker build, as I have just joined the DIY speaker "club" (pursuing some SEOS builds).
As you deal with the pre-carpet stress - remember to take time for an adult beverage and a deep breathe !!

Thank you! I wasn't prepared to be working on columns last night but it seemed to go really smoothly. Makes me feel a lot better about doing the others. It also helped having an extra set of hands this time. Looking forward to finishing the other column pieces and getting them in place. I think that's when the actual design will start to show a little better.

I would have been kicking myself had I missed that one. There is no going back because I was using the PL Premium adhesive with the screws. Luckily it hadn't set up yet so I was able to pull the two screws I had in it and slide it forward. I'm sure today it has set up nicely. Really helped having some LEDs on hand so I could physically put them in their spot and see what kind of space I would need. Now I just have to keep on top of the carpeter installers and make sure that I still have a gap when they are done. rolleyes.gif

I am really going to be pushing forward on the speakers in the next week. Right now I have the crossover, woofer, and horn ready to go in for one speaker. I just need to finish the cabinets. Since these will be going behind my screen I won't be going to extremes to finish them to the highest level. The plan is to apply sanding sealer (done), primer, and then a flat black paint. I have sanded down the edges but I did not route them like BIG did when he built his 4 Pi's. Since I am trying to get ready for carpet I'm not sure how much time I will have this week to work on them but I will definitely be hitting them hard next weekend. Would like to have something to listen to while I am wrapping everything in that room. biggrin.gif I assume you will be posting your progress? Looking forward to seeing another speaker build. It's a shame there aren't more in this section. I rarely venture into the DIY speakers area.

Taking a step back has been key. This whole build has started to wear on me. It is losing the "fun" and becoming more work. Luckily for my sanity we have had more plans this time of year and it has forced me to take a break. Bad part is I still have a hard deadline coming up in about two months where I will have to be complete with the theater and about 70% complete with the rest of the basement. Oh man, I could use one of those adult beverages right now after just writing about my deadlines. rolleyes.gif
post #754 of 1268
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

Great progress! And carpets on the way, that always makes a HUGE visual difference! I'm certainly envious of you.
I think I missed it, but how did you decide on your riser/bass trap plan?

Thanks JPA! I am probably not ready for carpet at this point (would ideally have the wall panels done first) but I should be done cutting in the room so the dust and dirt should be at a minimum. Hanging wall panels will be nice, clean work for a change. biggrin.gif

Bpape gave me a rough plan to follow. I hadn't really planned to use the riser as a trap but he said I could use each cavity vs. the usual ones you see on here where the interior joists are smaller than the perimeter ones. I could cut one large slit across the back or use the diffusers. I chose the diffusers since I wasn't too sure about having a large hole run the full width of the riser and no furniture (at least for awhile) to keep people from accidentally stepping in it and either hurting themselves or stretching the carpet. In the front of the riser I was to cut various size holes (3"-5") in each cavity. I chose to make some of them rectangles and triangles since I only had one hole saw size and it was easier to cut straight shapes with the jigsaw. I hope it works out but I don't think I will ever know one way or the other what impact it is having on the room.
post #755 of 1268
Vanice, your attention to detail is amazing. Your theater is looking amazing .
post #756 of 1268
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by blynk View Post

Vanice, your attention to detail is amazing. Your theater is looking amazing .

Thanks blynk! Hope to make some big changes here before the end of the year (screen, carpet, panels).
post #757 of 1268
Thread Starter 
Well, finished up installing the riser nosing last night. Came out pretty well I think. Here are a couple of shots.





This shot I tried to show the gap that the carpet and LEDs will share behind the front lip.



And here is a shot of the whole thing. In this picture you can see the holes I cut for the riser trap much better. I did a little cleaning last night and moved out some of the stuff I wouldn't be needing until after carpet.





I also finished off the blocking in the back corner that I was putting off. I am now 95% done with the blocking. Just have a few straight pieces along the back wall and the arch to finish after carpet.



And finally a shot with the riser mostly cleaned up and the uninstalled columns moved out of the room.



Before carpet gets here on Friday I have to figure out what I am going to do about my door thresholds. I had originally thought about granite or marble but the cost and availability seem to be prohibitive. Stockmonkey used cherry for his and I am starting to lean that way. I will be using the Zero automatic door bottom so I need a solid straight threshold. Here are a couple of pics of the door dimensions. Should I make the threshold run front to back of the door jamb and have it run under the jamb at each side?











And my original plan was to remove the bottom sweep that the door peeps put on but I may not have to. It looks like it will clear the carpet. I still need the zero bottom seal because I don't really want to put a threshold in that is 1 1/8" to 1 1/4" tall so that it works with the sweep. That would be a nice bump over the carpet and I'm afraid a tripping hazard. Any thoughts from those who have gone through this already?
post #758 of 1268
Hey Vanice. First of all - very nice work! You really put a lot of care and attention to detail into everything. I can't wait to see all of the finish work you have going in over the next couple of weeks.

Regarding the treshold / sealing the door here is what I would suggest:
  • Remove the existing door seal from the bottom of the door
  • Router out the bottom of your door to recess the mortised Zero International automatic door bottom found here: http://www.zerointernational.com/catalogpage.aspx?pageID=15 This is different from the surface mounted version
  • Purchase and install the Zero International aluminum threshold, Model #564
  • Replace your existing door stops with Zero International model 770, 870 or 7770 depending on your budget
  • Not necessary, but attach to all four sides of the door Zero International model 119W

Without changing the door itself, this will give you the best door sealing package possible. Of course you can opt for the Zero International door stops at a later point in time. But the combination of the mortised drop-down seal and the matching Zero International threshold just can't be beat.
post #759 of 1268
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

Hey Vanice. First of all - very nice work! You really put a lot of care and attention to detail into everything. I can't wait to see all of the finish work you have going in over the next couple of weeks.
Regarding the treshold / sealing the door here is what I would suggest:
  • Remove the existing door seal from the bottom of the door
  • Router out the bottom of your door to recess the mortised Zero International automatic door bottom found here: http://www.zerointernational.com/catalogpage.aspx?pageID=15 This is different from the surface mounted version
  • Purchase and install the Zero International aluminum threshold, Model #564
  • Replace your existing door stops with Zero International model 770, 870 or 7770 depending on your budget
  • Not necessary, but attach to all four sides of the door Zero International model 119W
Without changing the door itself, this will give you the best door sealing package possible. Of course you can opt for the Zero International door stops at a later point in time. But the combination of the mortised drop-down seal and the matching Zero International threshold just can't be beat.

Thanks for the reply TMcG. I do my best to do things right the first time. I have a bad habit of fixating on the smallest details if there is something wrong so it is best for my sanity if I do everything I can to make it look professional.

I have already purchased the Zero door bottoms (365 AA, surface mount version) from the soundproofing company. I've had them for some time. My plan was to attach these to the face of the door and see how it works with the weatherstripping that I had installed on the jamb. This was the budget friendly option. If I found that it wasn't working well enough then I would remove the stop and install the zero door seals. I hadn't really thought about the door threshold. I figured that would be right there with the door seals as "nice to have but let's see if this works first". Other issue is I have two doors so whatever I do it's times 2. I will not have carpet outside the room yet so I could temporarily install a wood threshold to see how it works and slide it out and replace it if I have issues. I would really like to have something in place by Friday (I know, wait until the last minute rolleyes.gif) which is why the granite and marble have gone away as options.
post #760 of 1268
Thread Starter 
First coat of black paint on the nosings last night. Crossing my fingers that it doesn't look like poo when it dries. Will put a second coat on tonight and check it tomorrow morning to see if I think I will need a third.

Also put a coat of primer on the speaker cabinets. Still need to do the bottoms so I will do that tonight as well.

And finally, spent some time at Menards looking at various 1x material to make door thresholds out of. Decided on a piece of 1x8 oak. Brought it home and I don't think it will work. It needs to be a little thicker I think, I could spend time shimming it up with 1/4" ply but I think I will go a different route. Lately I have been calling around trying to find 5/4x4 material to make the screen support out of. None of the local big box stores carry it and the lumber yard I frequent doesn't carry it either. I did manage to find a lumber yard in Indy that has some in stock. They also have 5/4x8 material (poplar) that I'm thinking now might be just right for the threshold. Doing a little research on the soundproofing company website it appears that I need to allow for a 1/2" drop on the automatic door bottom to the top of the threshold. Since my door sits about 1 1/2" above the floor a 1" thick threshold should give me the gap that I need. I figured I would chamfer the edges of the threshold like this:



Carpet pad @ ~ 1/2" + Carpet @ ~ 1/4" = means top of carpet should fall somewhere in the middle of the chamfer. I think this should work well as far as not creating a trip or stubbed toe hazard but still keeping the threshold above the carpet to limit the chance the carpet interferes with the automatic door bottom. I asked this before but didn't get an answer. Does the threshold extend under the door jamb at the bottom or should it sit between the jamb? I think right now I am leaning towards the threshold being between the jamb so it is an easier install and creates a better finished look where the jamb meets the threshold. Thoughts??
post #761 of 1268
Hey!! What's wrong with Poo?!?!?!

post #762 of 1268
Thread Starter 
Ah... the Christmas Poo! Nice! Wonder what picture I would have got using the word a**?? biggrin.gif
post #763 of 1268
Poplar is a soft wood. I'm not sure it would be a good choice for a threshold.

Typically there is a tack strip adjacent to the threshold and the carpet lays on that (there is no padding). I think you are overestimating the total height of the floor covering.. but ymmv depending on the type of carpet.
post #764 of 1268
Surface mount door bottom performs better than the fully mortised. Lab data
post #765 of 1268
At great risk of sounding like a salesperson for Zero International, a relatively inexpensive threshold that also works well with the automatic door bottom is the Model 1684A. I have used this in the past and have received very good results. Plenty of space to tuck your carpet (or other flooring material) on both sides and easy to cut a small scrap of wood to fill the void in the middle.

Here's a link to the exact page in the catalog: http://www.zerointernational.com/catalogpage.aspx?pageID=12
post #766 of 1268
Everything's looking good vanice!

In regards to the placement of the threshold, I believe that it should be between the jamb. Otherwise there would be an odd gap at the chamfered part unless you cut the jamb to fit around it. I'd take off the doorstops and trim them to fit with the threshold in place, place the threshold between the jamb, and then reinstall the door stops.

Keep up the good work!
post #767 of 1268
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White View Post

Surface mount door bottom performs better than the fully mortised. Lab data

True, but mortised with matching treshold has an even higher lab-tested STC rating for the assembly....hence the recommendation for the mortised bottom and threshold for best results.

EDIT: I forgot to mention that mortising in the door bottom with the 564 threshold will also allow surface-mounting of a low-profile door sweep, similar to what is found on exterior doors. There are professional versions from Zero found HERE, primarily to preserve fire ratings, but a handful of nice sweeps available from the big box stores.
Edited by TMcG - 12/12/12 at 9:24am
post #768 of 1268
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

Poplar is a soft wood. I'm not sure it would be a good choice for a threshold.
Typically there is a tack strip adjacent to the threshold and the carpet lays on that (there is no padding). I think you are overestimating the total height of the floor covering.. but ymmv depending on the type of carpet.

I wasn't thinking about the tack strip and the pad stopping before the door. Crap... Back to the drawing board.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

At great risk of sounding like a salesperson for Zero International, a relatively inexpensive threshold that also works well with the automatic door bottom is the Model 1684A. I have used this in the past and have received very good results. Plenty of space to tuck your carpet (or other flooring material) on both sides and easy to cut a small scrap of wood to fill the void in the middle.
Here's a link to the exact page in the catalog: http://www.zerointernational.com/catalogpage.aspx?pageID=12

Not bad but it may not be tall enough to work with my door setup. My door is sitting just over 1 1/2" above the floor. The automatic door bottom should sit above the threshold 3/8" - 1/2". That means the automatic door bottom would overhang the bottom of the door about an inch. I think I just answered my own question. I'm going to have to cut MDF to fill in behind the automatic door bottom aren't I? If I choose to go this route can I just tell them approx. where the threshold starts so that they can cut the carpet appropriately since there is no way I am going to have one of these by Friday?
post #769 of 1268
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaustin View Post

Everything's looking good vanice!
In regards to the placement of the threshold, I believe that it should be between the jamb. Otherwise there would be an odd gap at the chamfered part unless you cut the jamb to fit around it. I'd take off the doorstops and trim them to fit with the threshold in place, place the threshold between the jamb, and then reinstall the door stops.
Keep up the good work!

Thanks aaustin! Going to look completely different come this weekend.

I had the same thought as you. The chamfer would show and not look finished if I ran it under the jamb. Now I may be going away from wood to a purchased product. rolleyes.gif
post #770 of 1268
Quote:
Originally Posted by vanice View Post

Not bad but it may not be tall enough to work with my door setup. My door is sitting just over 1 1/2" above the floor. The automatic door bottom should sit above the threshold 3/8" - 1/2". That means the automatic door bottom would overhang the bottom of the door about an inch. I think I just answered my own question. I'm going to have to cut MDF to fill in behind the automatic door bottom aren't I? If I choose to go this route can I just tell them approx. where the threshold starts so that they can cut the carpet appropriately since there is no way I am going to have one of these by Friday?

I guess I wasn't descriptive enough - my apologies. When I said you can fill in the center with a piece of scrap lumber, I should have said that you can fill that center area with whatever height of wood you want, within limits. So you could have a strip of 3/4" plywood attached to your subfloor and then attach this Zero international piece on top of that. It would give you a bit more room for carpet tucks, etc. In fact, I like to secure the wood to the floor (Glued and screwed), then have the carpet people carpet almost all the way to the wood itself, leaving about a 1/4" gap. After the carpet guys leave you attach this threshold over your wood and voila - a perfect fit. I might have a couple of pictures I can post here if you like of one installed.

As for the automatic door bottom....you can obviously adjust the height you mount this device on the surface of your door and there is also an adjustment screw for the mechanism that will extend the drop range. I don't recall what the max amount is, but I think it is close to 1.5".

I would call Zero International directly and see if they can put you in touch with a distributor that has stock....but if you use the approach I suggest above where you just glue and screw a piece of plywood ripped to the correct width for this threshold to fit overtop at a later point in time, you should be fine with putting it on the slow boat. You just have to trust in the measurements on the CAD and your own ability to line everything up. Judging by the perfection in your theater, this should be a snap with your talents.
post #771 of 1268
Quote:
Originally Posted by vanice View Post

I wasn't thinking about the tack strip and the pad stopping before the door. Crap... Back to the drawing board.
Not bad but it may not be tall enough to work with my door setup. My door is sitting just over 1 1/2" above the floor. The automatic door bottom should sit above the threshold 3/8" - 1/2". That means the automatic door bottom would overhang the bottom of the door about an inch. I think I just answered my own question. I'm going to have to cut MDF to fill in behind the automatic door bottom aren't I? If I choose to go this route can I just tell them approx. where the threshold starts so that they can cut the carpet appropriately since there is no way I am going to have one of these by Friday?

It depends on the installer. Mario said they glued down his entire carpet, so anything is possible. I have also seen the installer leave it about an inch long at the threshold, then fold the edge under (think: folding a piece of paper in half) and used an electric stapler to staple the carpet down in front of the threshold.

You could take any generic threshold, put a piece of 1/4" ply under and tuck the carpet under. I have both oak and marble thresholds in my home. The oak is a pre-made saddle something like this:


I shimmed them and tucked laminate under or butted the tile up to them. Worked great.

Tim
post #772 of 1268
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

I guess I wasn't descriptive enough - my apologies. When I said you can fill in the center with a piece of scrap lumber, I should have said that you can fill that center area with whatever height of wood you want, within limits. So you could have a strip of 3/4" plywood attached to your subfloor and then attach this Zero international piece on top of that. It would give you a bit more room for carpet tucks, etc. In fact, I like to secure the wood to the floor (Glued and screwed), then have the carpet people carpet almost all the way to the wood itself, leaving about a 1/4" gap. After the carpet guys leave you attach this threshold over your wood and voila - a perfect fit. I might have a couple of pictures I can post here if you like of one installed.
As for the automatic door bottom....you can obviously adjust the height you mount this device on the surface of your door and there is also an adjustment screw for the mechanism that will extend the drop range. I don't recall what the max amount is, but I think it is close to 1.5".
I would call Zero International directly and see if they can put you in touch with a distributor that has stock....but if you use the approach I suggest above where you just glue and screw a piece of plywood ripped to the correct width for this threshold to fit overtop at a later point in time, you should be fine with putting it on the slow boat. You just have to trust in the measurements on the CAD and your own ability to line everything up. Judging by the perfection in your theater, this should be a snap with your talents.

I followed the location I just didn't think about the ply being thicker and raising the whole thing. Makes complete sense now. smile.gif Maybe I can just have them run it long and I can fold it under the lip myself or have them run it up to the board with padding the whole way so that it sits up a little higher if I decide to raise the transition piece above the 1/2" dimension shown in the drawing. I have CAD so I should be able to do a pretty good job of placing it where it needs to go. If you have some pics I would love to see them. And thanks for the help!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

It depends on the installer. Mario said they glued down his entire carpet, so anything is possible. I have also seen the installer leave it about an inch long at the threshold, then fold the edge under (think: folding a piece of paper in half) and used an electric stapler to staple the carpet down in front of the threshold.
You could take any generic threshold, put a piece of 1/4" ply under and tuck the carpet under. I have both oak and marble thresholds in my home. The oak is a pre-made saddle something like this:

I shimmed them and tucked laminate under or butted the tile up to them. Worked great.
Tim

I hadn't looked into anything premade and shimming it to work. I will keep that in mind if the Zero one turns into a dead end. Thanks for the info. Nice to have a little brainstorm session with other people once in a while. Just too many ideas out there that I wouldn't necessarily come up with on my own.
post #773 of 1268
Thread Starter 
Spaceman posted this question in his thread and I am curious to find an answer as well since I have the RS45 projector too.

"I know this has been explained to me before, but I'd like one last confirmation before I modify the false wall. If I'm using lens memory on the JVC RS45 to go between 16:9 and 2.35:1 (on a 2.35 screen), my understanding is the center of the lens cannot be higher than the top of the screen. I was recently discussing this issue in one of the JVC threads and was told I could mount the lens higher because of vertical lens shift. Does the lens memory function control both zoom and vertical lens shift, allowing the lens to sit above the top of the screen or is it critical that the lens be at or below top of screen? I did not find much in the owner's manual about this topic."

Hopefully others who have the RS45 will chime in and give us some input on projector location and the zoom method.
post #774 of 1268
Well, I guess I should have done a little more reading in the JVC thread regarding lens memory before shooting an email off to Mike Garrett. I suspect his response tomorrow will be similar to the one he posted in the JVC thread back in July.

I wanted to know where the lens needed to fall (relative to screen height) in order to use lens memory to go back and forth between 2.35 to 16:9. Some had said the lens needed to be no higher than the top of the screen. Others said that the lens could be higher because vertical lens shift was part of the lens memory feature. Here is Mike's response from July.

The Panny works by shifting the image on the chip. It does not have the ability to use lens shift for 2.35. What this means, the projector lens of the Panny has to be mounted between the top and bottom of the 2.35 image. The RS45 does not have this limitation. The RS45 uses true lens shift, power zoom and power focus for it's memory. With the 30% lens shift, the lens of the RS45 can be mounted anywhere from 30% of image height above the image all the way down to 30% below the image height.

This makes me one happy camper as I don't need to perform surgery on my screen wall or the fabric frames that I've already assembled to go around the screen. If I get additional info from Mike tomorrow, I'll pass it along.
post #775 of 1268
Thread Starter 
Thanks for posting here too Spaceman. Good information to know. Looks like we have plenty of room to play with between the screen and projector mounting. I'll keep an eye out for your update from Mike though in case new information has come to light.

Last night I did a light sanding of the riser nosings and applied a second coat to them. The nosings were made up of two pieces and it seems there is a difference between the two. One was slightly thicker and it also appears that the grain is raising a little more. Hopefully it won't be too noticeable after the paint dries. I forgot to check it this morning. I also put a coat of primer on the bottom of the speaker cabinets. They are now ready for some black paint which I'm not sure if I will get to tonight or not. I should have some pictures up tomorrow of both of these projects.

And in preparation for carpet on Friday I did some cleaning in the room and also anchored down a few places where the plywood was anchored well enough the first time. Tonight I need to vacuum again and probably do a quick mopping of the floors to try and remove as much of the drywall dust as I can. I also need to put my threshold spacer board down tonight. I think I have decided to go with the Zero aluminum threshold that does not have the neoprene on it. Now if only I can find someone to sell it to me. rolleyes.gif
post #776 of 1268
Quote:
Originally Posted by vanice View Post

Maybe I can just have them run it long and I can fold it under the lip myself or have them run it up to the board with padding the whole way so that it sits up a little higher if I decide to raise the transition piece above the 1/2" dimension shown in the drawing.

You have a pretty decent lip on either side of that threshold, so the carpet doesn't have to get incredibly close to the wood - just with 1/2" will be fine, 1/4" if you are a perfectionist. Either way the lips of that threshold will cover everything on both sides so I would not recommend leaving the carpet long. Just have them do the full install with carpet, pad and tack strip as normal.

Here's one idea for you - why don't you temporarily install a strip of wood that is the full width of the fill piece, the threshold risers AND the gap.....that way you can tell the guys to carpet right against the wood. Later you can remove the temporary wood, install the skinnier width piece that will fit underneath the threshold and install as normal. You can't trust the carpet guys to remember everything, right?

Can't wait to see tomorrow's post!
post #777 of 1268
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

You have a pretty decent lip on either side of that threshold, so the carpet doesn't have to get incredibly close to the wood - just with 1/2" will be fine, 1/4" if you are a perfectionist. Either way the lips of that threshold will cover everything on both sides so I would not recommend leaving the carpet long. Just have them do the full install with carpet, pad and tack strip as normal.
Here's one idea for you - why don't you temporarily install a strip of wood that is the full width of the fill piece, the threshold risers AND the gap.....that way you can tell the guys to carpet right against the wood. Later you can remove the temporary wood, install the skinnier width piece that will fit underneath the threshold and install as normal. You can't trust the carpet guys to remember everything, right?
Can't wait to see tomorrow's post!

Not sure I follow your last comment? If I put in a piece that is the same depth as the threshold and they carpet up to it wouldn't that keep me from tucking the carpet underneath the lip of the new threshold? Looking at the attached drawing below, I was thinking I could put in a placeholder piece that is 3" deep centered where I plan on putting the final piece. They could carpet up to this point which, when the final piece is installed, would give me approx. a 1/2" of overlap.



Wait a minute, I just re-read your post for the fourth time. I think I know what you are saying. You are saying to put a piece in that is 2 1/8" deep x 36" wide, right? If so, I think we are thinking along the same line. I will install a temporary piece tonight and replace it once I have the new thresholds.

I still don't know when they will be there tomorrow but I can guarantee that there will be plenty of new fancy room pics! I just hope these guys know what they are doing. confused.gif
post #778 of 1268
Quote:
Originally Posted by vanice View Post


Wait a minute, I just re-read your post for the fourth time. I think I know what you are saying. You are saying to put a piece in that is 2 1/8" deep x 36" wide, right? If so, I think we are thinking along the same line. I will install a temporary piece tonight and replace it once I have the new thresholds.
I still don't know when they will be there tomorrow but I can guarantee that there will be plenty of new fancy room pics! I just hope these guys know what they are doing. confused.gif

LOL! No problem. I try to be as descriptive as I can without going over the top. So yes, what I am saying is that from edge to edge you need the 2.1250 inches for the width on the scrap PLUS an extra 1/8" or so on either side for a bit of wiggle room. So make the strip about 2 3/8" wide x 36" long so the carpet guys can go right against it. That way when you rip out the scrap you already have your wiggle room (gap) factored in because, after all, you have that 0.9375" to play with. Assuming the verticals on this threshold are about 1/4" wide each, you would remove your scrap block and rip it down to about 1.62" wide to fit between the two verticals of the threshold as backing. If the thickness (i.e. height) of the wood exceeds the vertical parts of this threshold, the support they offer will not matter anyhow.

I found my images. Here you go. I had the threshold you are looking at going between two carpeted areas so I needed something for the door seal to drop directly down on. I also had a mechanical room which you can see in the back ground where I used the fully mortised drop-down plus the Model 564 threshold and all the door seals available. You just cannot believe how much of a difference the fully sealed doors make, including using the Zero International side seals. I didn't have a picture of my scrap lumber underneath the one threshold, but you can see the before and after results looked pretty good.













Let me know if this all makes sense.
post #779 of 1268
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the pictures! That turned out really nice. That puts me at ease a little about the final look. Yes, I think we are on the same page now regarding the place holder blocking. Now I just have to have someone email me back regarding where I can buy these things!
post #780 of 1268
Thread Starter 
I just got an email from John at the Soundproofing Company (since I emailed them to see if they sell it) and he say's that they don't recommend these thresholds as they are light, hollow, and can allow for flanking. They recommend a solid wood block or some kind of stone to engage the door bottom. I still plan to continue with the above plan but it looks like I will have to find somewhere else to buy it. Will this ever end... rolleyes.gif
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
AVS › AVS Forum › Home Entertainment & Theater Builder › Dedicated Theater Design & Construction › The Grove Theater and Basement Build