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JL AUDIO 13W6 box

post #1 of 19
Thread Starter 
My klipsch RW-12D isnt enough for my big livingroom that also is a breakfast room and kitchen equaling around 1500 sqft.I purchased 2 JL AUDIO 13.5 W6's and need advice on what size ported box i need for HT.I also play alot of music threw this setup too.I'm also wondering how much power i should run to them.I'm looking at the crown 4000.

Yamaha rx-a3000
klipsch quintinet surround
klipsch RW-12D





post #2 of 19
Thread Starter 
I'm ready to build a box if anybody can help
post #3 of 19
This is the DIY forum, not really the do it for you forum. There is a ton of help to be found here, however you need to give people something to work with.

Regardless, what kind of tune are you looking for? It generally helps to plan out exactly what you want before buying parts. If you want to play around, you can download WinISD, but without knowing what you're shooting for, nobody can really give you a box design.

That being said, 13w6's are great drivers for their size, however, they're very expensive and you can get a lot more bang for the buck out of larger drivers for home audio use.

Also, did you mean 1500 cubic feet? 1500 square feet is quite large.
post #4 of 19
9 Cubic feet, with a 18Hz tune, and 1Kw of power, simulates 115db from 20Hz, seems really good to me.

You need a HPF at 13/14Hz to protect the driver.

Three 4" ports, 32" in length, keep the port air speed at 30 m/s max.

You could probably give the driver more power, in a smaller box, with a higher tune.

4 cubic feet gives a Qtc of .704 in a sealed configuration, excursion limited to around 1100 watt.

Hope that gives you some ideas to start with!
post #5 of 19
where are the thiele small specs? with those and a program such as winisd, various models can be developed in two seconds if you are already up the learning curve which many around here are.

homeboy, he isn't going to have any idea what q or air speed means. maybe you can explain those things and why they are important.
post #6 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

This is the DIY forum, not really the do it for you forum. There is a ton of help to be found here, however you need to give people something to work with.

WOW Who pissed in your fruitloops?I gave my area and the sub i'm going to use and need help on building a box.What else do you need know?I'm 33 6'3 225 i workout pretty regular and need to focus more on cario this year.That help you out?Do you want to be facebook friend first?You made your point clear that you know more than me about ht,but you dont have to be a jerk.At one point you had to learn just like i am.

Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

Regardless, what kind of tune are you looking for? It generally helps to plan out exactly what you want before buying parts. If you want to play around, you can download WinISD, but without knowing what you're shooting for, nobody can really give you a box design.

I'm shooting for around 18-20 htz,but that's all depending on the port(s).I'm thinking i'll build a box and make it were i can swap the ports around until i find what i like.

Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

That being said, 13w6's are great drivers for their size, however, they're very expensive and you can get a lot more bang for the buck out of larger drivers for home audio use.

I already own the 13W6's that i was going to use on another project until i read i can use them for my home theater.
Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

Also, did you mean 1500 cubic feet? 1500 square feet is quite large.

Yes my livingroom,breakfast area and kitchen are around 1,500 square foot(my house is 4,000 square foot)






Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

9 Cubic feet, with a 18Hz tune, and 1Kw of power, simulates 115db from 20Hz, seems really good to me.

You need a HPF at 13/14Hz to protect the driver.

Three 4" ports, 32" in length, keep the port air speed at 30 m/s max.

You could probably give the driver more power, in a smaller box, with a higher tune.

4 cubic feet gives a Qtc of .704 in a sealed configuration, excursion limited to around 1100 watt.

Hope that gives you some ideas to start with!

Thanks for the response.9 cubic feet seems pretty big,but i'll try to mach something up to see exactly how much room it is.


Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

where are the thiele small specs? with those and a program such as winisd, various models can be developed in two seconds if you are already up the learning curve which many around here are.

homeboy, he isn't going to have any idea what q or air speed means. maybe you can explain those things and why they are important.

Thanks
post #7 of 19
JL 13W6:

Free Air Resonance (Fs) 24.3 Hz
Electrical Q (Qes) 0.464
Mechanical Q (Qms) 6.7
Total Speaker Q (Qts) 0.434
Equivalent Compliance (Vas) 3.94 cu ft / 111.6 L
One-Way Linear Excursion (Xmax)* 0.85 in / 22 mm
Reference Efficiency (no) 0.331%
Efficiency (1 W / 1 m)** 87.4 dB SPL
Effective Piston Area (Sd) 100.4 sq in / 0.0648 sq m
DC Resistance (Re)*** 6.5 Ωng

I made a mistake, I was modelling the 13W7, not the 13W6!

So the good news is 6 cubic feet tuned to 22Hz looks really good, 6" port is fine if a high pass filter is used at 19Hz.

A Behringer EP4000, would be great value to power the subs. (900 watt per channel into the subs wired to a 2 ohm configuration)

I assume you want to go ported over sealed?

John.
post #8 of 19
Okay it is...I am just wondering what the 13W6 would be in a sealed enclosure. I have easy access to those drivers, and am curious. I can't go 6 cubes.
post #9 of 19
I had the wrong spec's when I suggested 6 cubic feet.

These are right:

2.4 cubic feet = Q .707 (handles 700 watt)

So yes it can be used sealed.
post #10 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by homeboydeluxe View Post

JL 13W6:

Free Air Resonance (Fs) 24.3 Hz
Electrical Q (Qes) 0.464
Mechanical Q (Qms) 6.7
Total Speaker Q (Qts) 0.434
Equivalent Compliance (Vas) 3.94 cu ft / 111.6 L
One-Way Linear Excursion (Xmax)* 0.85 in / 22 mm
Reference Efficiency (no) 0.331%
Efficiency (1 W / 1 m)** 87.4 dB SPL
Effective Piston Area (Sd) 100.4 sq in / 0.0648 sq m
DC Resistance (Re)*** 6.5 Ωng

I made a mistake, I was modelling the 13W7, not the 13W6!

So the good news is 6 cubic feet tuned to 22Hz looks really good, 6" port is fine if a high pass filter is used at 19Hz.

A Behringer EP4000, would be great value to power the subs. (900 watt per channel into the subs wired to a 2 ohm configuration)

I assume you want to go ported over sealed?

John.

I like the price of that amp compared to the crown xls's.I'm going to go with ported.Thanks for the help
post #11 of 19
here is the sub (assuming those t/s posted are accurate) 2.5 cubic feet sealed and 6.0 cubic feet ported tuned to ~17hz with two flared four inch ports 33 inches long with 500 watts and no room gain. driver is well within limits at this level.
LL
post #12 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

here is the sub (assuming those t/s posted are accurate) 2.5 cubic feet sealed and 6.0 cubic feet ported tuned to ~17hz with two flared four inch ports 33 inches long with 500 watts and no room gain. driver is well within limits at this level.


What happens if i double the power to 1,000 watts?
post #13 of 19
it shoots a little over xmax, but that would be okay. most good drives are designed with some wiggle room out past xmax. usually listed as xmech, xlim, or xdam (mechanical limitation, limitation, damage point) is the point where the driver tends to get hurt.
LL
post #14 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

here is the sub (assuming those t/s posted are accurate) 2.5 cubic feet sealed and 6.0 cubic feet ported tuned to ~17hz with two flared four inch ports 33 inches long with 500 watts and no room gain. driver is well within limits at this level.

why would anyone ever go sealed lmao
post #15 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by kryptonitewhite View Post

why would anyone ever go sealed lmao

Because it sounds better, room gain can make the response curve very flat, it sounds better, don't have to worry about over excursion as much, it sounds better, smaller size, it sounds better, can have more speakers in the same physical space as ported, hence more output, and it sounds better.

In this case, where the number of drivers is already determined, if he has the room for it, ported is most likely a better option. The low displacement of the drivers would struggle on low frequency content, so EQing the ported model to flat in room would give a good deal of headroom down low compared to sealed.
post #16 of 19
yeah, but does it sound better?
post #17 of 19
No, but it does sound better. No wait.

Seriously both choices are pretty good tho I'd vote for use of passive radiators in the resonant design. Price goes up a bit but then you won't have to worry about port compression at high power levels. Also helps you out with different tunings to try out.
post #18 of 19
Thread Starter 
Do i need 13.5 passive radiators to match my 13.5 subs?Also if i go with a 6cf box how many passive radiators do i need per box?Just one?
post #19 of 19
Id stay ported unless you want to add cost and complication. You basicaslly need double the displacement of the subs for PRs... 2 13.5" PRs so 2 15" PRs per 13.5" sub, but to tune it is a combination of the W6 parameters, airspace of the enclosure, and specs of the PRs including altering their mass.

Cut a couple holes and drop in some sonotube ports, or, make slot ports... same outcome, cheaper, easier. PRs get overloaded/compression like ports do.
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