235 Build - Page 7

I've used a lot of these in studio applications and they are slick.
http://www.markertek.com/Audio-Equipment/Audio-Interface/RDL-Stick-Ons/Radio-Design-Labs/ST-DA3.xhtml?ST-DA3

It has adjustable gain, and 3 outputs (balanced or unbalanced)

They also make a mono line amp (STA-1M) for more gain.
Edited by LeBon - 9/27/12 at 10:06pm

The EPX4000 has Input Sensitivity of 1 Volt, so you shouldn't need any intermediate amplifier, unless you're driving several amplfier loads from a single preamp output port, so that you might overload the source.

Here's another box that seems to address your situation directly:
http://artproaudio.com/artcessories/audio_solutions/product/cleanbox_pro/

Also, cheaper than the Stick-Up box

Great explanations of the gain matching issues with pro vs. consumer equipment:
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/home-theater-receivers-processors-amps/35677-gain-structure-home-theater-getting-most-pro-audio-equipment-your-system.html

Did you consider using two doors? I've worked on theaters with them and they do work well. Your framing is wide enough to make it doable.

It is those longer screws that will do the holding. MDF isn't the best, don't over tighten those screws or you will strip out the holes.

I would say that probably 2X a week we have a gentleman that has a WAF issue with doors. Wife is demanding double doors (French style) or refuses communicating doors. Very common so don't feel alone. One other common point of marital contention is not having a back wall at all. Again, we get these every week, every year.

The door is far and away the weak link in most builds, just due to the surface area. I encourage the guys out there to simply explain that a single door or communicating door is profoundly practical, so given the efforts and expenses going on in the rest of the theater, knowingly leaving such a blatant acoustic hole in the room just makes no sense.

Also, a single door opening can be made very theater-like. I try and encourage guys to play up the possible theater treatments to the door as a peace offering to eliminate french doors from the project.

Stagger the clip placement. They are all lined up. See the SIM.

The last clip on a row should have maybe 1" of channel sticking out beyond the clip. You'd hate to have that channel creep out of the clip.

I would surface mount the 365 bottom to the door

That's tough to do in corners. Put clip as close to edge of stud to give the most channel sticking out, without touching other channel or corner stud.

---

Chase "Fetch"

You would install a couple of additional studs to accomodate.

Your staggered pattern looks good.

Attach clips to blocking with a good deck screw or wood screw.

Attach panels (ply or drywall) to channel with fine thread drywall screws.

Probably much too late reply to have any relevance for the project, but still...

The interesting part here is "surround field". You don't want to be listening to the surrounds by way of the on-axis direction as you do front speakers. You aim for a diffuse sound that has no real sense of direction, at least not on lower volume sounds.

Now, there are dipoles and dipoles, just like there are better and worse direct radiators. But after changing to my current surrounds, I would not ever go back to direct radiators... Heck, I have to lean into each speaker just to verify they're still working... that never happened when you stood up close to the surround speakers before.

Here's a borrowed picture of one (with a placement I wouldn't recommend at all!):


I use three of these per side surround channel and one each for the surround-back channels and there's nothing that gives me any reason to say the sound comes from loudspeakers... it's a totally diffused sound field. (About $7-8k worth, though.. and not available outside Sweden)

Middle Atlantic hinged cable carriers or a DIY version perhaps?:

MA cable carriers.jpg 368k .jpg file

im not sure ive ever heard of designing a riser like that. Have you seen the joist bays open ended like that somewhere else? Acoustically idk what that would do? I am curious though.

Power and conduit in the riser are nice additions also.

Looks ok to me. Have seen plenty of basstraps with just holes in the top at the back, this should about the same. I'd probably stuff it all the way, though.

Several issues ... see my comments in your riser plan posting.