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235 Build - Page 7

post #181 of 544
I've used a lot of these in studio applications and they are slick.
http://www.markertek.com/Audio-Equipment/Audio-Interface/RDL-Stick-Ons/Radio-Design-Labs/ST-DA3.xhtml?ST-DA3

It has adjustable gain, and 3 outputs (balanced or unbalanced)

They also make a mono line amp (STA-1M) for more gain.
Edited by LeBon - 9/27/12 at 10:06pm
post #182 of 544
The EPX4000 has Input Sensitivity of 1 Volt, so you shouldn't need any intermediate amplifier, unless you're driving several amplfier loads from a single preamp output port, so that you might overload the source.
post #183 of 544
Thread Starter 
I was testing this out with loaner Pioneer SC-1527. I connected the sub RCA output from AVR to EPX-4000 RCA inputs. After driving a single buttkicker for about 1 minute the AVR would shut off. I was assuming this was caused by issues between consumer vs pro components. IIRC others were not able to directly connect consumer AVR to Behringer amps....I'll have to see if I can dig those up. Looking at the specs for the AVR....

Input (Sensitivity/Impedance):
Line 380mV / 47K Ohms
Output (Level/Impedance):
REC 380mV / 2.2K Ohms


The unbalanced input impedance on the EPX-4000 is 10K Ohms

Maybe I should just wait until I buy my permanent prepro and hope for the best?
post #184 of 544
Here's another box that seems to address your situation directly:
http://artproaudio.com/artcessories/audio_solutions/product/cleanbox_pro/

Also, cheaper than the Stick-Up box
post #185 of 544
post #186 of 544
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LeBon View Post

Great explanations of the gain matching issues with pro vs. consumer equipment:
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/home-theater-receivers-processors-amps/35677-gain-structure-home-theater-getting-most-pro-audio-equipment-your-system.html

Thanks for the light reading wink.gif
It looks like I'll just have to wait until I buy my AVR before I'll know if I need a boost between it and the Behringer.
post #187 of 544
Thread Starter 
I still think HVAC was the most challenging part of the planning so far but this 'little' door issue has also been interesting. I toyed with the idea of adding two 1/2" layers of MDF to a solid core door but that seemed to complicate things quite a bit. With 2" treatments on the wall I will need an 8" wide-throw hinge (will likely be ordering this hinge). I would also need a door handle that can handle a 3 3/4" thick door. Emtek only seems to go up to 3" thick. Any suggestions that don't include welding?

Theater side wall (2x4 @ 24" OC)
DoorFrame1_zpsff7d8096.jpg


Door jambs and threshold. Could 3/4" MDF be used for the jamb to support 100lb door?
DoorFrame2_zps4b9ef241.jpg


Custom door stop attached to inner jamb only
DoorFrame3_zpsf51cc9d3.jpg


Put up OSB/DW right up to jamb:
DoorFrame4_zpsa61bbecc.jpg
post #188 of 544
Did you consider using two doors? I've worked on theaters with them and they do work well. Your framing is wide enough to make it doable.
post #189 of 544
Thread Starter 
Hey Big, Yes I thought about communicating doors but the WAF is pretty low. I think I could easily add a 2nd door later if we aren't happy with the results. Do you think 3/4" MDF will work well holding a 100lb door. I think 2 of the 4 screws in each hinge should line up with a stud (rather than DW or OSB) so longer screws there should help. Thx.
post #190 of 544
It is those longer screws that will do the holding. MDF isn't the best, don't over tighten those screws or you will strip out the holes.
post #191 of 544
I would say that probably 2X a week we have a gentleman that has a WAF issue with doors. Wife is demanding double doors (French style) or refuses communicating doors. Very common so don't feel alone. One other common point of marital contention is not having a back wall at all. Again, we get these every week, every year.

The door is far and away the weak link in most builds, just due to the surface area. I encourage the guys out there to simply explain that a single door or communicating door is profoundly practical, so given the efforts and expenses going on in the rest of the theater, knowingly leaving such a blatant acoustic hole in the room just makes no sense.

Also, a single door opening can be made very theater-like. I try and encourage guys to play up the possible theater treatments to the door as a peace offering to eliminate french doors from the project.
post #192 of 544
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White View Post

I would say that probably 2X a week we have a gentleman that has a WAF issue with doors. Wife is demanding double doors (French style) or refuses communicating doors. Very common so don't feel alone. One other common point of marital contention is not having a back wall at all. Again, we get these every week, every year.
The door is far and away the weak link in most builds, just due to the surface area. I encourage the guys out there to simply explain that a single door or communicating door is profoundly practical, so given the efforts and expenses going on in the rest of the theater, knowingly leaving such a blatant acoustic hole in the room just makes no sense.
Also, a single door opening can be made very theater-like. I try and encourage guys to play up the possible theater treatments to the door as a peace offering to eliminate french doors from the project.

Thanks Ted. Do you have any examples of 'theater-like' single doors? I'm not sure what you mean by that. Maybe I can PM you my wife's cell number and you can charm her into going with communicating doors....tongue.gif
post #193 of 544
Thread Starter 
Mortise automatic door bottoms or surface mount? Wouldn't mortised bottom caused the neoprene seals on the door bottom to be misaligned with the seals on the door stops?
post #194 of 544
Thread Starter 
Time for some clips and channel layout. I'll have 5/8" OSB, GG, 5/8" DW. My room is around 13' wide but according to Ted I should be able to get away with 12' channels. Hopefully Ted notices this post and give me his blessing otherwise I may have to PM him directly. I'll throw in a few keywords that might get snagged in his searches: Green Glue, soundproofing, whisper clips, automatic door bottoms tongue.gif
Does anyone know how close to the end of each channel I should install the last clips (I currently have them at 1/2").

clips1_zps2bca2b5c.jpg


Showing joists as well as blocking I will need to add:
clips2_zps866fc267.jpg


Showing soffits. I aligned channels and added extra clips where front and rear soffits connect to ceiling....hope that's enough.
clips3_zps86294059.jpg
post #195 of 544
Stagger the clip placement. They are all lined up. See the SIM.

The last clip on a row should have maybe 1" of channel sticking out beyond the clip. You'd hate to have that channel creep out of the clip.

I would surface mount the 365 bottom to the door
post #196 of 544
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White View Post

Stagger the clip placement. They are all lined up. See the SIM.

The last clip on a row should have maybe 1" of channel sticking out beyond the clip. You'd hate to have that channel creep out of the clip.

I would surface mount the 365 bottom to the door

That's tough to do in corners. Put clip as close to edge of stud to give the most channel sticking out, without touching other channel or corner stud.


Chase "Fetch"
post #197 of 544
You would install a couple of additional studs to accomodate.
post #198 of 544
Thread Starter 
Thanks Ted, I missed that staggered clip 'detail' frown.gif
Here's the revised layout, hopefully I got it right this time?

clips1B_zpsd0c77b8d.jpg

clips3B_zpsdb4b051f.jpg
post #199 of 544
Thread Starter 
Assuming I have the correct layout above I can now order my hat channel (clips already here). Next will be screws/hardware for the following 4 ceiling steps......Suggestions on hardware and spacing of screws for step 3 and 4?

ScrewsQuestion_zps37e613ca.jpg
post #200 of 544
Your staggered pattern looks good.

Attach clips to blocking with a good deck screw or wood screw.

Attach panels (ply or drywall) to channel with fine thread drywall screws.

post #201 of 544
Thread Starter 
I ordered the full height Middle Atlantic Slim 5 on casters from ebay. It will sit inside my equipment closet and I will pull it out when I need to hookup cabling. I'm trying to figure out where/how to terminate cables coming into the closet. Should it be on the back or side wall of the closet? Should I connect speaker cables directly to my amps? Should HDMI be terminated in a keystone wall plate and then put a patch cord to components? How do I handle extra length of cabling required to allow rack to be pulled out of closet without tangling up in it when pushing rack back in? Any suggestions appreciated.
post #202 of 544
Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

Quote:
Should I use Dipoles?

IMO, No. Properly setup surrounds should have no problem producing the surround field, IMO the dipoles are a "trick" for those either not willing or able to properly devote the space or resources to achieve it.


Probably much too late reply to have any relevance for the project, but still...

The interesting part here is "surround field". You don't want to be listening to the surrounds by way of the on-axis direction as you do front speakers. You aim for a diffuse sound that has no real sense of direction, at least not on lower volume sounds.

Now, there are dipoles and dipoles, just like there are better and worse direct radiators. But after changing to my current surrounds, I would not ever go back to direct radiators... Heck, I have to lean into each speaker just to verify they're still working... that never happened when you stood up close to the surround speakers before.

Here's a borrowed picture of one (with a placement I wouldn't recommend at all!):


I use three of these per side surround channel and one each for the surround-back channels and there's nothing that gives me any reason to say the sound comes from loudspeakers... it's a totally diffused sound field. (About $7-8k worth, though.. and not available outside Sweden)
post #203 of 544
Middle Atlantic hinged cable carriers or a DIY version perhaps?:

MA cable carriers.jpg 368k .jpg file
post #204 of 544
Thread Starter 
Never too late for some pics smile.gif Nice budget for surrounds!
post #205 of 544
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post

Middle Atlantic hinged cable carriers or a DIY version perhaps?:
MA cable carriers.jpg 368k .jpg file

Those cable carriers give me some ideas for a DIY spring-based equivalent. Thanks for the pic.
post #206 of 544
Thread Starter 
I posted a sketchup of my riser design in a different thread. Appreciate any feedback.....riser plan
post #207 of 544
im not sure ive ever heard of designing a riser like that. Have you seen the joist bays open ended like that somewhere else? Acoustically idk what that would do? I am curious though.

Power and conduit in the riser are nice additions also.
post #208 of 544
Quote:
Originally Posted by 235 View Post

I posted a sketchup of my riser design in a different thread. Appreciate any feedback.....riser plan

Looks ok to me. Have seen plenty of basstraps with just holes in the top at the back, this should about the same. I'd probably stuff it all the way, though.
post #209 of 544
Several issues ... see my comments in your riser plan posting.
post #210 of 544
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

im not sure ive ever heard of designing a riser like that. Have you seen the joist bays open ended like that somewhere else? Acoustically idk what that would do? I am curious though.
Power and conduit in the riser are nice additions also.

Haven't seen this elsewhere but looks like it might work better than floor registers on the back wall. I am planning outlets for the chairs and conduit to column locations. Thanks.
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