235 Build - Page 10

Hey RT thanks for dropping in. Did you buy your Sierra center speaker at the same time as your towers? Was that based on Dave's recommendation?

I'm calling lumber yards looking for 1x10 in poplar or spruce. They don't seem to carry this size unless I go to Maple($$). Any suggestions on what to use for a door jamb that spans dual walls and can support a solid core door?

Good to know MDF is holding up for you with the solid door. Does your hinge screw into MDF only or right through to framing? I tweaked my framing plans so that the hinge can now screw through the MDF and into the framing behind. The only downside I can see is that I won't be able to run the drywall right up to the door jamb on the hinge sie. Hopefully the gap between the jamb and vertical lumber are small enough that I can caulk nicely....




...and with the 1 3/4" solid door, wide-throw hinges and 2 x 5/8" layers....

After some discussion over in the Panny AE8000 thread and a lot of testing I have come to the conclusion that putting the PJ above the top of the screen is not ideal. However I would really prefer having it sit up in the soffit as I had planned. In order to compensate I will start with tilting the PJ and screen to see how that works out. If that isn't ideal then I may use the PJ's keystone adjustment or use a little overscan with zoom adjustments.

That sounds like another option, could that support a 100lb door without having to screw into framing behind?

Thanks eXa, I may have used the wrong terminology when I said overscan. By that I meant adjusting the zoom so that the non-vertical image edges bleed onto the black velvet. That wouldn't work in 16:9 however....unless I get some masking.

I need to attach 6" of OC703 to my back wall. Would a spray adhesive work between 2" layers to hold things in place?

Thanks Big, those look nice - no risk of rattling washers.
On another note, I was looking for a picture of Big's infamous curved stage lip tool. I can't find it, does anyone have a link?

Thanks for the link. I should have known I had seen it on your thread.

I'm tweaking my furring and track plans. Here's an overhead cross-section of my entrance. Any suggestions? Thx

Contractor says he can start tomorrow morning

Here's your hit to settle your nerves until I get home tonight
This is a pic from the guys at fabricmate detailing how to hide the wood furring on my door. Unbelievable service from those guys.

Well after waiting on a contractor for many months things have officially started. Well at least his equipment is in my house

After waiting for months for a contractor I can barely keep up with all the activity. I am having the whole basement finished so lots going on with some significant plumbing and hvac changes, old electrical pulled out and keeping a close eye on framing. After 1 week the walls are all up, rough-in HVAC done and electrical almost complete, major plumbing completed (minus some concrete that will have to be busted up again ).

Here are some pics.....

The main space (21x13). Existing 2x4 walls (24" OC) spaced away from concrete wall with a gap between top plate and joists. Window being framed over (will be insulated and vapor barrier):






Dual wall chalk lines where they will meet the existing exterior perimeter walls. Slit was cut in existing top and bottom plates to decouple walls (adjustment was made since pic was taken to align properly with gap in new walls):






Doorway with 2x4 (24" centers) inner wall and 2x3 (16" centers) outer wall. Bottom plates have not been cutout yet. The spacing between the 2 walls is a bit wider than I had in sketchup in order to keep the room square. I guess the main beam isn't exactly parallel to the outer wall.....why can't everything be perfectly straight just like in the sketchup world? As a result a 1x10 door jamb will be 1/4" to narrow to cover the gap. I'll have to try and find some 1x12 unless I go with a site-installed split jamb which seems like it might be a pain to install.






Corner of room where walls meet under the beam. Plumbing was moved to left side of beam (outside of the room). This allows lined soffit inside the room to act as hvac chase:






Front wall - looking up towards the top plate showing 2" conduit for access behind false wall (2 other conduit at PJ locations):





Misc supplies
- wide-throw hinges to clear 2" of OC703 on interior of room
- GG, putty pads, whisper clips
- Emtek handle for 3.75" width (1.75" door and 2" treatments)
- 8" JPL acoustical flex duct for 1 supply and 2 returns





Flex ducts will all punch through ceiling (5/8" OSB, GG, 5/8" drywall) behing 3/4" MDF soffits:






Panasonic inline fine drawing from both 8" return ducts but installed quite far from room to minimize any fan noise. I will hook it up to an Insteon FanLinc to control fan speed as needed:




I hope that satisfies your pic craving for awhile

Time for an update....

Clips recessed in the joist:




Only needed 2 putty pads:





Pipe wrap:




Duct running above ceiling covered with 30lb roofing felts and a bit of pipe wrap: