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235 Build - Page 10

post #271 of 542
Thread Starter 
Hey RT thanks for dropping in. Did you buy your Sierra center speaker at the same time as your towers? Was that based on Dave's recommendation?
post #272 of 542
Quote:
Originally Posted by 235 View Post

Hey RT thanks for dropping in. Did you buy your Sierra center speaker at the same time as your towers? Was that based on Dave's recommendation?

Yes I bought all three at the same time. I don't have an AT setup so the center was a no brainer. biggrin.gif I did talk to Dina and Dave both a couple of times and with my setup and budget I purchased the towers, center and the 170's as my surrounds. As I am mostly movies and TV I did forgo the ribbon upgrade as I just did not think the premium was worth it for me and my requirements. I also believe that while there are some limitations in the MTM type of design Ascend has done all it can to work around the limitations and short comings of such a design. I also think that if you went with three centers across the front or three towers you will have a great setup. I had originally planed on the 340's across the front and I was lucky enough to have my speaker budget increase to get the towers and the center. After almost a year living with my Ascends, I can tell you I have never looked back and wanted more. They are truly great speakers.

Regards,

RTROSE
post #273 of 542
Thread Starter 
I'm calling lumber yards looking for 1x10 in poplar or spruce. They don't seem to carry this size unless I go to Maple($$). Any suggestions on what to use for a door jamb that spans dual walls and can support a solid core door?
post #274 of 542
I don't think you want spruce. 1x10 should be a fairly common size of lumber; I'm surprised you can't find poplar in that size. You could try oak.

Honestly, I've made jambs out of MDF that have held up fine. Case in point, my daughter's 1-3/4" thick solid core door is hung on MDF.. it's seen some [ab]use over the past 5 years and no issues.

Tim
post #275 of 542
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Tim View Post

I don't think you want spruce. 1x10 should be a fairly common size of lumber; I'm surprised you can't find poplar in that size. You could try oak.

Honestly, I've made jambs out of MDF that have held up fine. Case in point, my daughter's 1-3/4" thick solid core door is hung on MDF.. it's seen some [ab]use over the past 5 years and no issues.

Tim

Good to know MDF is holding up for you with the solid door. Does your hinge screw into MDF only or right through to framing? I tweaked my framing plans so that the hinge can now screw through the MDF and into the framing behind. The only downside I can see is that I won't be able to run the drywall right up to the door jamb on the hinge sie. Hopefully the gap between the jamb and vertical lumber are small enough that I can caulk nicely....




...and with the 1 3/4" solid door, wide-throw hinges and 2 x 5/8" layers....

post #276 of 542
Thread Starter 
After some discussion over in the Panny AE8000 thread and a lot of testing I have come to the conclusion that putting the PJ above the top of the screen is not ideal. However I would really prefer having it sit up in the soffit as I had planned. In order to compensate I will start with tilting the PJ and screen to see how that works out. If that isn't ideal then I may use the PJ's keystone adjustment or use a little overscan with zoom adjustments.

post #277 of 542
Quote:
Originally Posted by 235 View Post

Good to know MDF is holding up for you with the solid door. Does your hinge screw into MDF only or right through to framing? I tweaked my framing plans so that the hinge can now screw through the MDF and into the framing behind. The only downside I can see is that I won't be able to run the drywall right up to the door jamb on the hinge sie. Hopefully the gap between the jamb and vertical lumber are small enough that I can caulk nicely....

I used the screws that came with the hinges. They may have gone into the framing 1/4" or so, it;s been a while. The holes need to be properly pre-drilled. Again, not saying it's the absolute best solution, but it has worked for me.

Tim
post #278 of 542
BIG has suggested using 3/4 ply on the hinge side to give you something to screw into rather than the actual framing. It takes up a little less space than a 2x and still gives you something solid to screw to.
post #279 of 542
Using keystone and\or overscan is horrible, blurs the image alot. Tilting the screen upwards also looks weird. I would just zoom the image a little and let the edges eat the abnormality. You wont notice it onscreen anyways.
post #280 of 542
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

BIG has suggested using 3/4 ply on the hinge side to give you something to screw into rather than the actual framing. It takes up a little less space than a 2x and still gives you something solid to screw to.

That sounds like another option, could that support a 100lb door without having to screw into framing behind?
post #281 of 542
Thread Starter 
Thanks eXa, I may have used the wrong terminology when I said overscan. By that I meant adjusting the zoom so that the non-vertical image edges bleed onto the black velvet. That wouldn't work in 16:9 however....unless I get some masking.rolleyes.gif
post #282 of 542
Thread Starter 
I need to attach 6" of OC703 to my back wall. Would a spray adhesive work between 2" layers to hold things in place?
post #283 of 542
Maybe, can you stack the pieces from the ground up so that most of the the weight is supported? My new secret weapon for linacoustic and 703 is Power Head Cabinet screws. They come in various lengths but 5 inches is the max. You could screw up the first two layers and just glue the last.

http://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/PowerHead-Screws-Metal-p13284.htm
post #284 of 542
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Maybe, can you stack the pieces from the ground up so that most of the the weight is supported? My new secret weapon for linacoustic and 703 is Power Head Cabinet screws. They come in various lengths but 5 inches is the max. You could screw up the first two layers and just glue the last.

http://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/PowerHead-Screws-Metal-p13284.htm

Thanks Big, those look nice - no risk of rattling washers.
On another note, I was looking for a picture of Big's infamous curved stage lip tool. I can't find it, does anyone have a link?
post #285 of 542
Quote:
Originally Posted by 235 View Post

Thanks Big, those look nice - no risk of rattling washers.
On another note, I was looking for a picture of Big's infamous curved stage lip tool. I can't find it, does anyone have a link?
There's a pic in this post from my thread.
linky
post #286 of 542
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the link. I should have known I had seen it on your thread.rolleyes.gif
post #287 of 542
Thread Starter 
I'm tweaking my furring and track plans. Here's an overhead cross-section of my entrance. Any suggestions? Thx

post #288 of 542
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Maybe, can you stack the pieces from the ground up so that most of the the weight is supported? My new secret weapon for linacoustic and 703 is Power Head Cabinet screws. They come in various lengths but 5 inches is the max. You could screw up the first two layers and just glue the last.

http://www.fastcap.com/estore/pc/PowerHead-Screws-Metal-p13284.htm

Nice tip Big!
post #289 of 542
Thread Starter 
Contractor says he can start tomorrow morning eek.gifeek.gif
post #290 of 542
Quote:
Originally Posted by 235 View Post

Contractor says he can start tomorrow morning eek.gifeek.gif
Then there should be progress pics by now! wink.gif We are picture addicts you know...tongue.gif
post #291 of 542
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GWCR View Post

Then there should be progress pics by now! wink.gif We are picture addicts you know...tongue.gif

Here's your hit to settle your nerves until I get home tonight biggrin.gif
This is a pic from the guys at fabricmate detailing how to hide the wood furring on my door. Unbelievable service from those guys.



post #292 of 542
Ummmm..........It's night (after work) if you did not notice or weren't aware of it. WE NEED PROGRESS PICS!!!!!!!!

Regards,

RTROSE
post #293 of 542
Thread Starter 
Well after waiting on a contractor for many months things have officially started. Well at least his equipment is in my house biggrin.gif

post #294 of 542
Well I guess it is better to have his equipment in your house vs. his junk. eek.gif

J/K of course. I bet after all of this waiting it does feel good to finally get started. Looking forward to seeing all this come together.

Regards,

RTROSE
post #295 of 542
Quote:
Originally Posted by 235 View Post

Well after waiting on a contractor for many months things have officially started. Well at least his equipment is in my house biggrin.gif

Curious if the contractor came back to visit his equipment yet...wink.gif
post #296 of 542
Of course not. If he had, there would be pics....... Right? biggrin.gif
post #297 of 542
If the equipment is there, what are you waiting for? biggrin.gif
post #298 of 542
Thread Starter 
After waiting for months for a contractor I can barely keep up with all the activity. I am having the whole basement finished so lots going on with some significant plumbing and hvac changes, old electrical pulled out and keeping a close eye on framing. After 1 week the walls are all up, rough-in HVAC done and electrical almost complete, major plumbing completed (minus some concrete that will have to be busted up again mad.gif ).

Here are some pics.....

The main space (21x13). Existing 2x4 walls (24" OC) spaced away from concrete wall with a gap between top plate and joists. Window being framed over (will be insulated and vapor barrier):






Dual wall chalk lines where they will meet the existing exterior perimeter walls. Slit was cut in existing top and bottom plates to decouple walls (adjustment was made since pic was taken to align properly with gap in new walls):






Doorway with 2x4 (24" centers) inner wall and 2x3 (16" centers) outer wall. Bottom plates have not been cutout yet. The spacing between the 2 walls is a bit wider than I had in sketchup in order to keep the room square. I guess the main beam isn't exactly parallel to the outer wall.....why can't everything be perfectly straight just like in the sketchup world? As a result a 1x10 door jamb will be 1/4" to narrow to cover the gap. I'll have to try and find some 1x12 unless I go with a site-installed split jamb which seems like it might be a pain to install.






Corner of room where walls meet under the beam. Plumbing was moved to left side of beam (outside of the room). This allows lined soffit inside the room to act as hvac chase:






Front wall - looking up towards the top plate showing 2" conduit for access behind false wall (2 other conduit at PJ locations):





Misc supplies
- wide-throw hinges to clear 2" of OC703 on interior of room
- GG, putty pads, whisper clips
- Emtek handle for 3.75" width (1.75" door and 2" treatments)
- 8" JPL acoustical flex duct for 1 supply and 2 returns





Flex ducts will all punch through ceiling (5/8" OSB, GG, 5/8" drywall) behing 3/4" MDF soffits:






Panasonic inline fine drawing from both 8" return ducts but installed quite far from room to minimize any fan noise. I will hook it up to an Insteon FanLinc to control fan speed as needed:




I hope that satisfies your pic craving for awhile wink.gif
post #299 of 542
Quote:
Originally Posted by 235 View Post

I hope that satisfies your pic craving for awhile wink.gif
You would think so...but no. Just like an appetizer before the meal, makes me want more! tongue.gif

Good start. Will be fun watching the progress.
post #300 of 542
Thread Starter 
Time for an update....

Clips recessed in the joist:




Only needed 2 putty pads:





Pipe wrap:




Duct running above ceiling covered with 30lb roofing felts and a bit of pipe wrap:

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