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235 Build - Page 14

post #391 of 544
What about cutting at an angle along the corner? Ideally you would end up with a "mitered" joint at the ceiling/wall. That should get you up above the screws in both layers, and maybe even up above the cables, too.
post #392 of 544
Maybe we are overthinking this what if you cut the ceiling in the corner instead of the wall. It should just drop down and then you calk and put mew tape and mud
post #393 of 544
Right Bill, that's what I was suggesting. The problem is the wall is pressing the ceiling against the joist, such that freeing the ceiling still leaves the wall coupled to the joist. Unless the bit of ceiling were removed - like it were pushed over to rest atop the channel or brought out entirely - the wall boards are still effectively butted against the joists.
post #394 of 544
Makes sence I vote 45 degrees into corner like JPA said
post #395 of 544
Thread Starter 
Big, the downside to that tool in my situation is that it might not allow me to keep my cut above the top row of wall screws. It also doesn't have any depth control.
J_P_A, what advantage do you see with the 45 degree cut vs the wall cut? Unfortunately the wires in my sketchup aren't drawn in the exact location, they pretty much cover the upper portion of the beam. I also suspect that with a wall cut using a multi-tool that the screws will remain below the cut line.

Based on feedback above, my lingering doubts with using the multi-tool on the wall near the ceiling are:

1) Gumming: Will this blade cut through the green glue sandwich without gumming up and being completely frustrating?
2) Binding: Will the downward pressure exerted on the wall by the ceiling cause my blade to bind
3) OSB Memory: This is the opposite of 2) in that maybe there isn't enough downward force left in the ceiling to have it push back down and re-open a slight gap to the joists.

I am recreating an OSB wall/ceiling corner on my bench (along with the 3/8 vertical curve). This should help me get the answers to point 2 and 3 with the exception that my OSB hasn't been sitting in that curved position for a month.....
As far as point 1 above....there must be someone out there that has tried to cut through a cured GG sandwich before. Did this work without gumming up?
post #396 of 544
I don't think the binding will be an issue. If nothing else, just wedge a long 2x4 with a block on the end between the floor and the ceiling to keep the weight off. Also, if you cut near the edge (i.e. an angled cut in the corner smile.gif ), you'll likely miss the GG since you probably didn't put it right up to the edge anyway (keep it off the fingers, right).

To me, the big advantage to the angled cut would be missing the screws in the wall. There's no way the screws should be that close to the edge. Of course, as sure as I say that.........
post #397 of 544
Having thought about it for a while now, and knowing that the corner will be built into a soffit, I would set a circular saw to the right depth and start cutting that wall. Run the edge of the shoe right up against the ceiling - you'll be above any screws if they hung the wood the same way they would have hung drywall. Start with the walls away from the beam and wires, just in case. If the single blade width stays open, you caulk it up and rest assured. If it closes tight, you run the blade through the same path and trim out some more until the ceiling stops sagging - check with a level if you like. Then caulk it and have the finish guys back in to seal it over.

Unless of course someone like Dennis said that was a bad idea and that the wall assembly unsupported on the edge would have the wrong impedance and the whole world would burst into flames. In that case... I'm sure he'll have a better suggestion. smile.gif
post #398 of 544
Thread Starter 
Here's a pic showing the drywall screws before taping happened. Not much room to play with because they want those screws covered by the corner tape. I suspect a circular saw might not stay tight enough to the ceiling. My guess is the OSB screws are not as close to the ceiling.

post #399 of 544
Pull the tape, remove the drywall screws. do your cutting. Then just caulk the corner seams with acoustical caulk and forget about re-taping. You said they won't show so they don't need to be pretty.
post #400 of 544
Thread Starter 
Even if I remove the top row of drywall screws I still need my cut to be above the top OSB screws. I don't know exactly where those screws are and so that's why I want to keep my cut(s) as tight as possible to the ceiling. I think my odds or remaining above those screws would be quite high if I use an oscillating multi-tool and cut the wall flush with the ceiling.
post #401 of 544
Sounds like you've got a plan. If you really wanted to find the OSB screws, you could try a magnet, but it seems like we keep coming back to the same solution over and over.
post #402 of 544
Make some dust and take some pictures already.
post #403 of 544
My suggestion to try if there really is an issue to worry about wasn't of interest before you start cutting?
post #404 of 544
Just cut my HVAC in ceiling today with OSB/GG/DW blade did not get gummed up
Edited by cw5billwade - 6/11/13 at 12:25pm
post #405 of 544
Any updates
post #406 of 544
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightlord View Post

My suggestion to try if there really is an issue to worry about wasn't of interest before you start cutting?
I might give it a try if I had my door and seals but those won't be here for at least 3 weeks.
post #407 of 544
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

Sounds like you've got a plan. If you really wanted to find the OSB screws, you could try a magnet, but it seems like we keep coming back to the same solution over and over.

Here's a hint to which way I'm leaning now....







Unfortunately the magnets don't pickup the screws in the OSB layer. No problem finding them on the drywall layer. The Bosch seems to work fairly well finding the screws in the OSB layer.
post #408 of 544
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cw5billwade View Post

Just cut my HVAC in ceiling today with OSB/GG/DW blade did not get gummed up

Good to know, that takes care of the concern on gumming.
Here's my setup with the horizontal piece simulating the ceiling and the short stub piece simulating the wall (although reversed). I put a 3/8 shim to simulate the amount of curve in the actual ceiling.



After cutting through the simulated wall.....

2) Binding: The multi-tool could cut through it. The pressure however did make the cutting slow going. I was using a metal/wood blade so maybe a wood-only blade would work faster.
3) Spring back: The thin gap left by the multi-tool blade was immediately squeezed tightly shut by the vertical pressure.

So that confirms it. I can go ahead and use the multi-tool to cut the wall near the ceiling right? Well after doing this I realized just how blind I will be with what's going on behind the wall. I revisited some of my pre-drywall videos and there are both low and high voltage wires that are too close for comfort. I just can't risk cutting into those. I believe I'm officially in analysis paralysis hell. This isn't exactly an into-to-construction type of problem given my very limited construction experience rolleyes.gif
post #409 of 544
Thread Starter 
Hopefully my contractor will come by soon so I can show him what he has done. Maybe I can convince him he should attempt to fix it. I think the best solution is now to use a circular saw set to the right depth and cut low enough on the wall so that I can avoid any wires. The difficult part of this will be finding and removing the screws in the OSB layer which are buried under 5/8 drywall and green glue. In the meantime, the taper finished sanding today so I will start painting.
post #410 of 544
Quote:
Originally Posted by 235 View Post

I might give it a try if I had my door and seals but those won't be here for at least 3 weeks.

Ok. I would have taken a break for 3 weeks myself in such a case. cool.gif
post #411 of 544
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightlord View Post

Ok. I would have taken a break for 3 weeks myself in such a case. cool.gif
With the pace I'm going at that may end up being the case. Do you think this amount of coupling is fairly insignificant in the overall soundproofing?
post #412 of 544
Quote:
Originally Posted by 235 View Post

With the pace I'm going at that may end up being the case. Do you think this amount of coupling is fairly insignificant in the overall soundproofing?

I don't know, neither do I know how much you need. But if it already is good enough, then it would be just work and some mental feelgood to fix it.
post #413 of 544
I am not Ted. smile.gif

I would prefer a shoddy seam (Especially one in a soffit - I have several already) over mechanical coupling. The HF sound that may eek through a cut and caulked spot will be absorbed within the wall cavities or not make it through the next partition. The LF sound that enters the framing via a coupled structure won't go away - evar!

Get cutting wink.gif
post #414 of 544
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HopefulFred View Post

I am not Ted. smile.gif

I would prefer a shoddy seam (Especially one in a soffit - I have several already) over mechanical coupling. The HF sound that may eek through a cut and caulked spot will be absorbed within the wall cavities or not make it through the next partition. The LF sound that enters the framing via a coupled structure won't go away - evar!

Get cutting wink.gif

I would have to agree. I'll get cutting if my contractor doesn't show up in the next few days. I'm dreading the carpet bombing I'll likely have to do to the drywall in order to locate the OSB-layer screws.
post #415 of 544
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightlord View Post

I don't know, neither do I know how much you need. But if it already is good enough, then it would be just work and some mental feelgood to fix it.

Even if it turns out 'pretty good' I would probably always question how much better it could have been.....
post #416 of 544
Quote:
Originally Posted by 235 View Post

Even if it turns out 'pretty good' I would probably always question how much better it could have been.....

Ok, if you're that kind of person then I rest my case - go ahead and cut! smile.gif
post #417 of 544
Everybody now . . . CUT! CUT! CUT! CUT! CUT! biggrin.gifbiggrin.gif

Gee, never knew the "godzilla" font size existed....
post #418 of 544
Thread Starter 
Would you guys cut it out tongue.gif, I don't even own a circular saw.
post #419 of 544
I'd ask your contractor for a recommended fix for the problem he created.
Edited by BIGmouthinDC - 6/13/13 at 4:01am
post #420 of 544
I think Ted or Dennis need to chime in send them a PM
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