235 Build - Page 3

235,

I'm not sure about your city, but here in Colorado, if a basement has a concrete floor most jurisdictions require basement walls to be "floating" walls. A floating wall in my area is built very similar to how you have described your walls; the wall is allowed to move up and down on nails if the basement floor heaves. This saves the rest of your building structure from buckling if you have expansive soils.

I only bring this up because if your existing walls were built this way, it might be for a reason. Be sure you check with your local code for any similar requirements.

That being said... I am a huge fan of RSIC 04 (or similar) clips. Going the extra step to be sure your walls are decoupled and "disconnected" from the overhead floor joists is a good thing. The nail method of your current walls might be a fairly good method of "decoupling", but I don't know - probably no testing stats on this. ????

235,

In the picture you posted of your wall detail, you might have a small problem when you go to drywall the inside wall underneath the beam. See picture below. After going to all the trouble of decoupling your walls, you don't want to be faced with attaching your drywall to the non-decoupled beam...

I think you might be okay to let that top section of drywall extend beyond the top plate of the wall, just make sure some well meaning drywaller or helper doesn't stick some screws into the drywall in the beam section. Also be sure that you don't accidentally push the drywall into the beam with a too-tight-fitting section of ceiling drywall. As long as neither of those things happen you might be fine with just putting some drywall adhesive into the corner joint to hold that top piece in place. Especially if you are doing soffits which will keep the area covered permanently, I think this would be fine. It is just an area that you will have to be extra careful of as you finish it.

Funny thing, I ran into this issue of space with my house main beam. I ended up building my staggered stud wall inside the main beam and losing a bit of space in the room. My room is just shy of 12' wide which made it easy to install carpeting, and about 22' long. By installing the wall inside the beam instead of under it, it allowed me to build a dedicated ceiling by adding ceiling joists between the floor joists from the wall inside the beam to the outside wall next to the foundation wall. I could tie the walls together with the new ceiling joists and isolate the room from the surrounding structure. This also solved the problem of having to use the isolation clips and had the added benefit of isolating the projector from the floor vibrations from above.

I used the green glue on one wall and the ceiling (two walls were next to foundation, one staggered stud wall was next to laundry room and one staggered stud wall was next to a salon I built for my wife).

For ventilation I had two 5" acoustically lined ducts supplying the space and two fan-assisted return air ducts from above the projector to remove heat and the equipment closet for the same purpose. The fan is an axial centrifugal fan made by Nutone (model ILF120). So far this has proven to work very effectively for removing heat and and is not noticeable during movie watching.

Considering your room is slightly larger than mine, I suspect a similar arrangement would work. Most people have inadequate return air from their spaces and I highly recommend using a fan with a variable speed controller. Keep balancing dampers as far from the diffusers as possible. If you use the round screw-in type diffusers, they will have to be as open as possible to minimize noise generated from excessive discharge velocity that occurs when they are closed too much.

How's the build going? Any updates?

Looking forward to it. HVAC has been rattling around in my brain for a week or two now. I haven't done any calculations, but I know that I'll bever have faith in my estimates. I've reverted to the fall-back position of "give as much capacity as I can afford" and hope it's "right" enough. So maybe your experience will shed some much needed light for me.

For a good HVAC solution, don't rule out a mini-split system. I am putting one into my theater and ran the lineset and wiring prior to drywall. I am also "hiding" the indoor unit in the rear sofit. The only minor concern is fresh air circulation.

I remedied that problem by running two 6" flex ducts inside the left sofit and I will be installing a 6" hydroponics fan outside of the theater (in the furnace room) that will turn itself on automatically when the heat in my rack reaches a certain temp (using a thermostat in the top of the rack space). There are no less than 4 90 degree bends in this setup so sound isolation shouldn't be an issue and since the HVAC and fresh air setup aren't connected to the rest of the house's HVAC, I don't have to worry about sound transmission into the rest of the house. AND I will (and you will) need to run the AC in the winter, for the theater.

So wish i would of found this thread earlier. Having trouble finding GG in Wpg that isn't priced %200 more.

Gonna guess that you drove to ... Grand Forks, Fargo, Minneapolis? Where'd you pick up your supplies?

Nice thread, keep up the good work!

Someone got an 'A' in SketchUp class

I give you an A+! Question about your return (maybe I didn't read enough in detail because I was so mesmerized by your sketchup pictures): are your returns dumping into the basment or hooking up to the HVAC circuit? Are your soffits within the isolation shell, and if so are you doing DD/GG for the portions that are serving as return or supply lines?

Hi 235,

Havent had a chance to read it all yet so pardon if already posted, Are you gonna zoom or use a lens for scope?

Yes theyre expensive. I just wanted to comment on your projector mounting in the rear soffit.

If your zooming, the projector lens elevation must fall within the projected image. It looks like your projector will be way up close to ceiling and in that case so will the top edge of your screen.

I'm not aware of any that have power lens shift and memory. I'd plan on the whole lens its only a couple inches......

First step is deciding on screen size, then calculating optimum viewing angle which will determine height of screen top edge and the mounting elevation....