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Spandex for AT Screen Questions

post #1 of 4
Thread Starter 
Hi and thanks to the forum for years of help!

Construction began on our new house last week and I was hoping you guys could offer some input on a couple of decisions I'll need to make in the next few months. The media room will be a typical 15x22 bonus room over the garage with 4 1/2 ft knee walls and only part (a little over half) of the room will serve as the theater. I plan on building a minimal false wall for an AT screen underneath one of the slopes with everything behind painted flat black and mounting the pj on on the opposite slope for a 5.1 setup. I haven't planned a screen size, but it will be 2.40:1 and as large as the short throw down the width of the room will allow.

I'm looking at spandex for a screen material, particularly because of what I've read here regarding its acoustic properties and the budget friendly price tag. What kind of image quality can I expect with the HC4000 on spandex vs. the unpainted BOC screen we had with the HC1500 in our previous room. I understand enough to know that it's kind of an apples to oranges comparison, but I'm really just hoping to hear that spandex is a viable option and that I can achieve watchable PQ that won't be too dark because of light loss or have some kind of horrible moire issues or anything.

I am also unsure of how the backing for the spandex works. I've read that one layer of spandex will allow some light to leak through and illuminate what's behind it, so my understanding is that I need to back it with a second layer to prevent seeing my frames and speakers that will sit behind the screen. Is this correct and if so, should the two layers be flush against one another or should there be some spacing between the screen layer and the backing layer? It would seem as though there would need to be some separation since the spandex is somewhat visually transparent and the weave patterns rubbing up against one another would interfere with the picture, especially in light areas that are relatively uniform in color like the sky or clouds.

I remember reading a particularly helpful thread about spandex that MississippiMan and Tiddler contributed heavily to, but can't seem to find it. If anybody has the link, it would be much appreciated.

My equipment will be as follows (all have been purchased except the pj):

Mitsubishi HC4000
Onkyo RC-360
3 Polk Audio TSI400's for Left, Right, and Center
2 Polk Audio T-15's for Surrounds
1 BIC America V-1020
PS3

The room will have one window that I am hoping to be able to cover with a removable BOC panel that will either fit snug inside the window or attach to the wall with magnetic plates or velcro or something along those lines. Any thoughts or info on this would also be appreciated.

I plan to make a build thread once construction gets to a point where I can actually start on the room.

Thanks!
post #2 of 4
I've done a great many Bonus Rooms w/Knee walls and at 15' wide between the 54" Knee walls, you not going to be able to have much wider a screen that 96" across....if it's going to be hung at a respectable height. (110" diagonal @ 16:9

Unless your Roof-line is extremely sharply pitched...that could make a bit of a difference.

Between now and then, we can get you sorted out as far as a applicable design for a Spandex Screen. Worry not to overly about image quality as the weave on the spandex is actually much tighter than that of most AT material.

Considering the construction of the room, and the ability to make the Fascia Wall whatever you want it to be, with a little planning, you could easily wind up with a room that looks very professionally done, is ideally suited to your needs, and cost a bundle less than your probably figuring.

But Acoustics in the room will have to be addressed, as will the Color scheme of the sloped Ceilings / Knee walls...especially the sloped Ceilings because the Ceiling sides will undoubtedly be very close into the far R & L Top Corner edges of the Screen.

I'll be glad to advise you on more than a few aspects of your Theater build. It's how I Roll. There's always the "Dedicated Home Theater Design & Construction" Forum also, but you can get lost in the "shuffling madness" on that incredibly busy place.

One last ditty: The HC 4000 is only 1300 lumens, has no Lens Shift, and a whopping big 18" Image Offset. You'd be better advised revisiting that potential selection unless as earlier stated, your center Roof Panel between the sloping Ceilings is at least 10' or more higher.
post #3 of 4
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post


One last ditty: The HC 4000 is only 1300 lumens, has no Lens Shift, and a whopping big 18" Image Offset. You'd be better advised revisiting that potential selection unless as earlier stated, your center Roof Panel between the sloping Ceilings is at least 10' or more higher.

The man himself! I can't begin to thank you for all of you contributions to this place!

One of the main reasons I decided on the HC4000 was because it has a CIH viewing mode. I knew I'd have issues with height (and, by default, width) limitations and like most displays, it letterboxes the 2.4:1 material, but with its CIH mode, it can pillarbox 16:9 material inside of the letterboxed area, if that makes sense, to allow for a 2.4:1 screen with side masking. You can then shift that image up to display at the top, effectively moving the top black bar down to join the bottom one making one large bottom black bar without keystoning the image.

I'm hoping to use some of the extra height that this method might afford and some of the zoom to hopefully squeeze a little extra width out of this sucka. I know I'll lose some resolution on 16:9 stuff, but I'll be able to go much bigger with my 2.4:1 stuff at full resolution than I otherwise would due to the height constraints you mentioned and the trade off is worth it to me.

I'm hoping that throwing the image sideways from one slope to the other rather than down the length of the room (I'll be throwing across the 15' and not the 22') will allow for me to pull this off. Unfortunately the mits throw calculator doesn't have any inputs for the CIH mode, so I'm not sure what kind of width benefits I can gain from throwing throwing this way because I'll also be lowering the projector's mounting height by mounting on one of the slopes instead of at full ceiling height.

This is probably also a good time to mention that this room will be a shared space with my wife's craft area (desk, sewing machine, bookcases, etc.). My line of thinking is that we not only visually separate the two spaces, but also physically separate them by way of some bookshelves which will divide the room into two spaces: A 15x12 space for the theater and a 15x9 space for her craft area (about a foot for the bookshelves' depth). We are going to need plenty of shelving anyway to hold all of our movies, games, her craft supplies, etc. and I think that using the bookcases as a sort of room divider will accomplish this.

They will also allow for separate color schemes for the two spaces, and will reduce "eye clutter" when watching movies. The only thing I want to look at when I'm watching a movie is the movie and I think that if we go with the bookshelves (I'm thinking something like 5' out from each side towards the center of the room, leaving a 5' "entrance" to the theater area, they can also serve to visually block a lot of stuff from the other section of the room.

Again, thanks for the help and if you have the link to that old thread about the spandex I mentioned, send it my way
post #4 of 4
CP, wondering how this ended up turning out. I too am considering spandex, and also have an HC4000 on BOC on a 10.5' wide 2.35 screen.
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