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Output 1080i Resolution on an Intel GMA X3100 Graphic Card

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 
So on our trip to HDTV bliss and finally getting a live HDTV feed on our television, I thought I'd try some programs that are supposed to help your computer output 1080i resolution. To start, I've just been wanting to "practice run" this with my laptop (which has an Intel GMA X3100 graphic card) which has proven difficult because I get to use DTDCalc and fiddle with custom modelines instead of getting to use EnTech Powerstrip, which other people have reported success with. The quoted post below was my most recent (and closest to success) attempt at making this happen, and below are some mixed offtopic and ontopic replies, all of which I will address and see if we can't work out a conclusion out of this:

Quote:


All righty, I'm back and hopefully a lot more educated on this topic.

At this point, this is what I think we've got figured out:

The Mitsubishi WS-48311 has RGBHV Inputs on the back
My laptop's Intel GMA X3100 video card doesn't work with Entech Powerstrip
The GMA X3100 will however work with another software called DTDCalc.
I've created a few custom modelines in DTDCalc, all of which leave me with similar symptoms depending on the sync settings in either modeline that I create:

If I use -hsync -vsync, I can get an image.
But, this image has problems with the colors that are hard to explain, so I made a small PowerPoint file to pinpoint what works and what doesn't. I started with slides containing just solid Black, Red, Green, and Blue, and they all displayed correctly, so I think my cable is fine. The problem lies when I try to display the solid white slide - I just get a near black color instead, and a thin white vertical band at the left of where the image starts.

If I use +hsync +vsync, I can kind of get an image too.
My red, green, blue, and black slides all display perfectly, but if I put up the white slide, the screen will go crazy for a few seconds before shutting off. I can put my mouse on the black slide, and I can even right click to bring up the menu, which causes the image to shift itself up the screen halfway, but it will go back to normal if I bring one of the other solids back.

If I use +hsync -vsync or -hsync +vsync, I'll get a semi working image. Starting with a black background, the black looks kinda brown. The more colors you add to the image, the lighter the black areas will become. If you drag a video to it, it can play, but if you put it in full screen, the image starts going a little bit crazy (not as bad as solid white on the other settings though).

Any ideas as to what might be causing this?

Thanks.

At this point, I'm not really quite ready to just quit and give up where other people have had success, especially when I feel like I'm really close to winning (I've got an image, it's just very strange ). On my journey in the last thread, I had a grouchy troll leave me this little gem that I never got a chance to reply to back then:

Quote:


That TV is not 3D at all. Not even a little bit. It also doesn't support Full HD, which is 1080p. It supports 1080i only.

Beside the "3D" thing (which we discussed before) and the obvious fact that 1080i and 1080p are almost indistinguishable, was there any point to this? I don't laugh at your television's flaws.

Quote:


If you insist on using the TV, the best thing to do would be to get a $30 video card that has component video output. That way you don't have to mess with any settings

After what was said before, I wasn't expecting anything even remotely useful to come from the same author, but this post has me honestly intrigued. A quick internet search later, I'm still pretty empty handed on that and would love to find one for $30, or even $20 in a desktop variety (I know this thread is about laptops, but I'm just curious).

Quote:


All that said, IMO your money is better spent on a smaller flat panel or DLP that's actually within your price range. CRTs are high maintenance and qualified technicians are not cheap.

The problem with that is inherent in small flatpanels is that they're just that, small. In addition to the Mitt, we also have a 17 and 22" LCDs already that I use as computer monitors for their own purposes.

I'd say that this isn't a high maintenance set though, it doesn't even ever need lamps, and I think it was zero dollars well spent to pick it up.


After that, another charming fellow came in to take his stab at the old thread (which can be found for archival purposes here, by the way).

Quote:


Not to side track this discussion, but no, regardless of the resolution that set doesn't have the refresh rate or input capability needed for 3D. Period.

Thank you for that, cap'n troll. "Not to side track this discussion, but no, nobody gives a crap about 3D glasses anyway"

Quote:


Further, the point others are trying to make here is that your set isn't anywhere near as capable of displaying computer video formats as current HDTV's are. Computer video formats and HDTV video formats are different and not compatible with each other. In 2002 a VGA input on an HDTV was for video devices (read: set top boxes, DVR's, etc.) that had VGA output, not necessarily a computer. A current HDTV will have the same VGA connector but the input can be from any number of devices, both video and computer.

Honestly, since I'm obviously not very well educated on this, I really can't make a call if that's the case indeed or not. All I know is that people have done it and that it can be done, although sometimes it is more sketchy with intel graphics.

Quote:


To really figure out your problem, you need to get the specific computer display format(s) the Mitsu is capable of (which is most likely 1920x1080 interlaced), and find a way to set the graphics card output of your computer to that specific requirement. Otherwise your wandering around in the dark. This is not an Intel issue or AMD issue; it's graphics card output and HDTV input compatibility.

Based on that, I'd have to say (if I were a guest reading the thread) that you must've missed every post between the title and johnny's little writeup. That's what the thread is about figuring out!

Quote:


As noted, another way (maybe) is to get a component video card for the computer, but the output would have to conform to video formats. I don't know if component video cards do or not

Johnny posted about this too, I'd be interested to see an inexpensive desktop one capable of playing HD video if you know where I can find one.



So, if anyone has any ideas as to what to do from here after reading through that mess, please don't hesitate to post.

Thanks in advance to the community!

- 2B
post #2 of 7
Thread Starter 
Any updates on this?

- 2B
post #3 of 7
Ok, so I skimmed through your TV set's manual, and you are going to want to do one of two things:

1. Get a discrete video card with component video output. These are getting harder to find, but a lot of Radeon 4000 series cards have this. Look for one that has an Svideo looking round plug (but has more pins than a standard Svideo plug) and has the component video pig-tail. The port may be called "TV Out" These work beautifully and will get you your 1080i output without much fiddling. I have a couple of cards you could use for this.

2. Get a VGA to Component adaptor. You most likely need the actual box that does this, and not the VGA to Component wire adaptors. This will allow you to connect any VGA output from any computer to a component compatible TV... which yours is. I can't speak for your Intel IGP, so I don't even know if it will allow 1080i over VGA. Does it? These are usually around $100 or so the last time I checked on them.
post #4 of 7
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Puwaha View Post

Ok, so I skimmed through your TV set's manual, and you are going to want to do one of two things:

1. Get a discrete video card with component video output. These are getting harder to find, but a lot of Radeon 4000 series cards have this. Look for one that has an Svideo looking round plug (but has more pins than a standard Svideo plug) and has the component video pig-tail. The port may be called "TV Out" These work beautifully and will get you your 1080i output without much fiddling. I have a couple of cards you could use for this.

How much? :-)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Puwaha View Post

2. Get a VGA to Component adaptor. You most likely need the actual box that does this, and not the VGA to Component wire adaptors. This will allow you to connect any VGA output from any computer to a component compatible TV... which yours is. I can't speak for your Intel IGP, so I don't even know if it will allow 1080i over VGA. Does it? These are usually around $100 or so the last time I checked on them.

These are completely cost prohibitive. I can get 1080i out of the card easily, I just need to tweak the settings better.

Thanks for the input though. I will take a closer look at this.

- 2B
post #5 of 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2 Bunny View Post

How much? :-)

I'll give you a Radeon 2400 Pro if you just pay for shipping. I also have a Radeon 4550 I can sell for $5 plus shipping. Both would include the Component pigtail and both are fanless... completely silent.

PM me if you are interested.
post #6 of 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2 Bunny View Post

These are completely cost prohibitive. I can get 1080i out of the card easily, I just need to tweak the settings better.

One other thing... you may be able to use the VGA to Component cables instead of the trancoder box. Your TV seems to support those weird formats that older front-projectors did. Those cables were made for that VGA to RGBHV ability. I can't guarantee that though. It's been so long ago since I've played with that stuff.

Here's a link to a cable: http://www.amazon.com/VGA-RCA-Compon.../dp/B000FM3EQ0
post #7 of 7
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Puwaha View Post

I'll give you a Radeon 2400 Pro if you just pay for shipping. I also have a Radeon 4550 I can sell for $5 plus shipping. Both would include the Component pigtail and both are fanless... completely silent.

PM me if you are interested.

I think I might just do that .

Quote:
Originally Posted by Puwaha View Post

One other thing... you may be able to use the VGA to Component cables instead of the trancoder box. Your TV seems to support those weird formats that older front-projectors did. Those cables were made for that VGA to RGBHV ability. I can't guarantee that though. It's been so long ago since I've played with that stuff.

Here's a link to a cable: http://www.amazon.com/VGA-RCA-Compon.../dp/B000FM3EQ0

Funny you should mention that as I used to be ill informed about how these worked, but here's how I think that works (from what I understand): Much like the fake SVideo ports on those cards you were talking about, I think rather than being a real breakout cable, the so called "VGA to Component" just does something similar to the SVideo to component that you were talking about and thus is only functional with the unique graphic cards that they were designed for. What I have built is a breakout cable that corresponds with (like you were saying before) the "RGBHV" signals (the working equivalent of one of these except with RCA connectors) and I get an image, it's just the image is messed up. That's why I think I'm on the right tracks, but this software is not as easy to use as EnTech PowerStrip, at least from what I understand...

In the end though, my goal is not necessarily to have the laptop (GMA X3100) output successfully to the telly (although it is a good/necessary learning experience for custom resolutions); rather, my goal is to prepare for putting a desktop computer there and using it almost solely for the purpose of tuning live HDTV since QAM set top boxes are so darn expensive. The laptop would just be a nice "plus" because (more than anything) it would make me more confident setting up the other computer, especially if it had Intel graphics (although I plan on avoiding that if I can).

- 2B
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