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The Theater Which Mercy Built - Page 5

post #121 of 207
Yes, the projector was on the same UPS as the electronics. But I did not connect my power amplifiers to the UPS, because of the loading.
post #122 of 207
Thread Starter 
My rack will be a good 20 feet away from the PJ...I assume there wouldn't be a way for me to connect the PJ to the same UPS?
post #123 of 207
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JVoth View Post

Either way should be fine. I'm not sure what equipment you will have but I'm sure a 15 amp dedicated circuit will more than suffice. The only thing that may present a problem is if you have a really high powered amplifier like an Outlaw 7900.

Here's a list of equipment:

Oppo BD-93
Direct TV box (hoping to get the HR34)
Marantz AV7005
Outlaw 7700 amp
Xbox 360
Sledge amp that comes with the two SVS legato subs.
JVC RS45 PJ
post #124 of 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post

My rack will be a good 20 feet away from the PJ...I assume there wouldn't be a way for me to connect the PJ to the same UPS?

I answered this in the PM you sent but I will go ahead and type it here in case someone else has a better/more efficient idea. What I did was DIY a 25 foot power cord so I could plug my PJ into the same UPS as my other equipment. It's also cheaper than running an outlet to your PJ. If you don't want to DIY then your electrician can do this for you. He can custom build a power cord and run it from the PJ location to the rack location easily. Whatever you do, stay away from PS Audio, Cardas, Kimber, Transparent Cable, and all the other boutique brands that will charge you, in some cases, over $100 a foot for their cables. Those companies have one of the biggest rackets going in the AV business. I'm actually jealous that I didn't think of it first.
post #125 of 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post

My rack will be a good 20 feet away from the PJ...I assume there wouldn't be a way for me to connect the PJ to the same UPS?

You can use something like this http://www.panamax.com/Products/In-W...WERKIT-PRO.php to extend power from your rack/UPS out to your projector.
post #126 of 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post

Well, I ordered the chairs -- so that's one thing done! Probably will finalize the electronics this week. I'm leaning towards the SVS Legato subs (comes with an amp), Klipsch KL-650s for the LCRs, Klipsch KS-7800 in walls for the surrounds (to go in the columns, Marantz AV7005 controller, Outlaw 7700 amp, JVC RS45 projector.

Here is a 3D model of how I envision the theater to look (carpet is just a texture I found on Sketchup -- will be looking into carpet this week):


Nice drawings. My theater (in construction) will be very similiar except I am much more narrow but much longer

My room is 13' 6" wide and 25' 5" long
post #127 of 207
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry M View Post

Nice drawings. My theater (in construction) will be very similiar except I am much more narrow but much longer

My room is 13' 6" wide and 25' 5" long

I've been meaning to check out your thread...I saw your posts in Cinemar thread about the frames for the acoustic panels...are you still going to do those? I wish when I designed the house I had planned for an AT screen...3-4 more feet would have been perfect!
post #128 of 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post

I've been meaning to check out your thread...I saw your posts in Cinemar thread about the frames for the acoustic panels...are you still going to do those? I wish when I designed the house I had planned for an AT screen...3-4 more feet would have been perfect!

Yes, I still do plan on making the frames in that design! Can't wait till I am at that phase!
post #129 of 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post

My rack will be a good 20 feet away from the PJ...I assume there wouldn't be a way for me to connect the PJ to the same UPS?

Use one of those powerbridges or similar by Panamax.
post #130 of 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post

Doing some web searching...I can't seem to find a combined UPS/conditioner rated for 20 Amp circuits. My plan was to pull a 20 A circuit to the rack -- should I stick with a 15 A or is there a combined unit out there rated for 20 A?

Good question...I was planning on doing 20A as well to my equipment but it seems to be more of a hassle than anything and not really necessary. I guess worse case scenario I can run 2 15A circuits

Not that I have a lot of equipment, but I rather be over equipped
post #131 of 207
Can anyone recommend a good powerbridge?

The Panamax looks nice, but whats up with all the excess parts? I don't understand the need for the "2 in-wall dual signal bays"

**Nevermind I get it now...my mind is only on power but these signal bays are for audio/video cables...ok this is a pretty solid product offering even though probably a bit overpriced.

post #132 of 207
Thread Starter 
The rack will be 20 feet away but the actual length of run needed will be around 40-45 feet. So I'm thinking that JVoth's solution of a really long power cord from projector to rack UPS will be the best. That way all my battery backup and surge protection can be at one location. I will probably have the guys run an extra 20 A circuit to the rack and another one to the PJ area just in case - I have two electrical panels in the basement that have enough open spaces and they won't charge me extra for a couple of runs that will take them 15 min to do.
post #133 of 207
Thread Starter 
Any suggestions for step lights? Since I'm using the riser for a bass trap, I would guess the step light should be IC rated, correct? I would like two step lights for each step (total of eight for the theater) -- do these normally run on normal voltage and can be hooked up to the Grafik Eye?
post #134 of 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post

Any suggestions for step lights? Since I'm using the riser for a bass trap, I would guess the step light should be IC rated, correct? I would like two step lights for each step (total of eight for the theater) -- do these normally run on normal voltage and can be hooked up to the Grafik Eye?

I ordered these but don't have them installed yet.
http://www.amazon.com/Royal-Pacific-...7708056&sr=8-1
They fit inside a standard electrical box and come with both horizontal and vertical face plates. There have been a few builds that have used them (I think Damelon) and I've heard they aren't very bright. Maybe since you are planning 2 per step, that won't be an issue for you.

You certainly can't beat the price.
post #135 of 207
Thread Starter 
Thanks! Those look good. Would want to paint the plate though...maybe two on the top step is enough..what do most people do?
post #136 of 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post

Thanks! Those look good. Would want to paint the plate though...maybe two on the top step is enough..what do most people do?

Most paint them. I don't think I've seen many steps with 2 lights but I think it would work fine, especially if your steps are a little wider. Sketch it up and see how it looks.

I noticed in your rendering that you only have 3 seats in the front row and the steps don't run from the wall to the edge of the 1st seat. Are you leaving that open for a 4th seat or maybe some end tables? If not, you might consider extending your steps to meet the sides of the seats. In the dark, I could see someone stepping off the top of your riser only to find out that the step below does not extend across the entire opening.
post #137 of 207
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

Most paint them. I don't think I've seen many steps with 2 lights but I think it would work fine, especially if your steps are a little wider. Sketch it up and see how it looks.

When in doubt, I always go to Moggie's Old Vic thread...looks like he used two 7 watt bulbs on each of the top two steps.
post #138 of 207
Thread Starter 
Framing is moving forward:



I have decided to do communicating doors. The outer door will open out into the hallway (right hand swing). Should I have the inner door swing right (picture 1) or left (picture 2)?

Option 1



Option 2



There will be no casing around the inner parts of both doors. But what I do about the 1" gap between the two walls? If I put a trim strip of some sort over the gap, won't that couple the walls again? Contractor isn't going to frame up the return walls for the doorway niche until we have this figured out. You can see where he laid out tape where we proposed to have the doorway in the first pic.



post #139 of 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post

Framing is moving forward:


Is that your basement? Concrete?

If so shouldn't you be using Pressure Treated or "warmanized" lumber for the baseplate? It is code around here
post #140 of 207
Thread Starter 
Yep concrete floor in the basement. It's not code here. The rest of the finished basement was built with non-PT baseplates.
post #141 of 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post


Option 1


I would choose option 1, but why do you have so much space between the inner and outer walls? It looks like you are loosing over a foot of space.
post #142 of 207
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AZGAMD View Post

I would choose option 1, but why do you have so much space between the inner and outer walls? It looks like you are loosing over a foot of space.

There is an I-beam running in that dead space that drops down 12". There is also a metal pipe support. It would have been difficult to incorporate those into the soffit/columns so I kept them outside the theater. The width of the room is still 16 feet so I'm not concerned. The length has been more problematic but after DD it will be 19'9 1/2" - picked up a couple of inches!

I am leaning to option 1 too.
post #143 of 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post

There is an I-beam running in that dead space that drops down 12". There is also a metal pipe support. It would have been difficult to incorporate those into the soffit/columns so I kept them outside the theater. The width of the room is still 16 feet so I'm not concerned. The length has been more problematic but after DD it will be 19'9 1/2" - picked up a couple of inches!

I am leaning to option 1 too.

I didn't see the metal support. It still is difficult to give up the space though. I am sure someone could figure out a way to use it as a broadband bass trap. Not sure how though.
post #144 of 207
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AZGAMD View Post

I didn't see the metal support. It still is difficult to give up the space though. I am sure someone could figure out a way to use it as a broadband bass trap. Not sure how though.

From what I've been told, the air space will actually improve my sound isolation efforts. As the HVAC unit and water heater are just on the other side, that is my primary goal. Plus I didn't want the room to become too close to a square. I am going to use the soffits and the riser as bass traps.
post #145 of 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post

I have decided to do communicating doors. The outer door will open out into the hallway (right hand swing). Should I have the inner door swing right (picture 1) or left (picture 2)?

If I close my eyes and imagine the two choices I think I'd prefer option 2. Imagine I'm entering the HT with a full pint of boddingtons in my right hand then use my left to open the outer door and inner door. Now picture leaving the theater with an empty pint glass in left and use my right to open the inner door. I don't want to switch hands to open the outer door - which naturally wants to be opened with the right in picture 2 and left in picture 1.

That was too much thinking, now I'm thirsty!
post #146 of 207
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moggie View Post

If I close my eyes and imagine the two choices I think I'd prefer option 2. Imagine I'm entering the HT with a full pint of boddingtons in my right hand then use my left to open the outer door and inner door. Now picture leaving the theater with an empty pint glass in left and use my right to open the inner door. I don't want to switch hands to open the outer door - which naturally wants to be opened with the right in picture 2 and left in picture 1.

That was too much thinking, now I'm thirsty!

Hmm, you make excellent points. The issue as I see it is having the inner door swing towards the seating area -- thus I have to walk around the door to close it and enter the seating area. Tough decision. I'm two kegs beyond the Boddington's btw!

Any thoughts on closing the gap between the two walls, Moggie?
post #147 of 207
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceman View Post

I noticed in your rendering that you only have 3 seats in the front row and the steps don't run from the wall to the edge of the 1st seat. Are you leaving that open for a 4th seat or maybe some end tables? If not, you might consider extending your steps to meet the sides of the seats. In the dark, I could see someone stepping off the top of your riser only to find out that the step below does not extend across the entire opening.

Didn't see this till today - an excellent observation. No, I don't plan an additional seat or end tables so I will extend the steps. Thanks!

I was reading through the Jeff's Rock Creek thread and saw the PowerBridge solution:

http://www.powerbridgesolution.com/avsspecialorder.html

This seems to be a good low cost solution to getting the PJ hooked up to one UPS/surge protector at the rack.
post #148 of 207
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post


There will be no casing around the inner parts of both doors. But what I do about the 1" gap between the two walls? If I put a trim strip of some sort over the gap, won't that couple the walls again?

Mario's Cinemar thread includes a nice description of how he handled a similar problem, including a bunch of helpful photos. Take a look at post no. 1751 in that thread. Here's one of his photos:



Mario used a split, two-piece jamb. He filled the gap between the two jambs with acoustic sealant. He covered the caulk joint with the door stop moulding which was nailed to only one side of the jamb. A very well thought out, well executed means of maintaining the decoupling.
post #149 of 207
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwightp View Post

Mario's Cinemar thread includes a nice description of how he handled a similar problem, including a bunch of helpful photos. Take a look at post no. 1751 in that thread.

Mario used a split, two-piece jamb. He filled the gap between the two jambs with acoustic sealant. He covered the caulk joint with the door stop moulding which was nailed to only one side of the jamb. A very well thought out, well executed means of maintaining the decoupling.

Thanks for the link! I think, however, that my contractor envisioned prehung doors. My wife wants the outer door to match the rest of the doors in the house (actually she is against the idea of communicating doors).



I will do a search on communicating doors and see what other solutions are out there. I'm having second thoughts now.
post #150 of 207
Thread Starter 
Got all the speaker/Cat/HDMI wiring done this week. Ran a conduit to the projector area and another conduit to the area behind the screen wall.


Projector:

IMG_0587.jpg



Screen wall area:

IMG_0586.jpg

HVAC is the next step. Still haven't finalized the plan. Not sure if I need two supplys or one. At the moment, I'm only planning on one cold-air return which will be on the right wall of the theater towards the (edit: middle). Not sure where I could put a second cold air return given floor-plan constraints in the rest of the basement. Any ideas?

If I do have to run a second supply, I was going to run it in the rear soffit above the projector box in the direction of the green arrows below. It would be encased in DD/GG and stuffed with pink fluffy to make a soffit muffler:

Rearsoffitandprojectorbox.jpg

The problem is that I'm going to have the conduit going down through that soffit into the projector box...

IMG_0588.jpg


Will it compromise sound isolation to have the HVAC flex duct pressing up against the conduit as they both run through the soffit? I will plug the conduit with insulation, and of course there will be insulation within the soffit surrounding the flex duct.
Edited by rs691919 - 6/16/12 at 6:53am
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