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The Theater Which Mercy Built - Page 4

post #91 of 199
4/16/12 at 6:32pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post


I hadn't thought of that, but it would fairly easy to do I think. I'm assuming you mean the supply, not the return.

You are more familiar with the room and how much space you have, but I don't see any reason it wouldn't work for both. Assuming there is enough space, that is.
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post #92 of 199
4/16/12 at 6:44pm
Thread Starter 
There will be about 1' 6" dead space, so that would be more than enough. Thanks for the idea! I'll run it by Bryan and see what he thinks. It would certainly be pretty easy from a construction standpoint.
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post #93 of 199
4/16/12 at 6:50pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JVoth View Post

As far as the subs go, for a theater that is as high quality as this one will be, I don't think a single sub will suffice. A submersive will get you the spl's you need, but dual subs will get you better response in the room. Dual THX Ultra Klipsch subs will be bad ass but if you can get dual Seaton's, you will be "The Man", period.

Well thanks for the compliment! I guess I don't feel like this is a grand project compared to what a lot of guys on the forum have accomplished.

As for subs, dual Seatons are tempting but will stretch a budget that has already been shattered by the screen. What do you think about the SVS Legato subs?
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post #94 of 199
4/16/12 at 7:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post


Well thanks for the compliment! I guess I don't feel like this is a grand project compared to what a lot of guys on the forum have accomplished.

As for subs, dual Seatons are tempting but will stretch a budget that has already been shattered by the screen. What do you think about the SVS Legato subs?

I've never heard them but I've read a review and it was very positive. I think even their lower priced subs are very highly thought of, so I can imagine the higher end Legatos will be nothing short of phenomenal.
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post #95 of 199
4/16/12 at 7:42pm
And you can save some room behind your screen wall as well if you are having some issues with room length.
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post #96 of 199
4/16/12 at 7:55pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JVoth View Post

And you can save some room behind your screen wall as well if you are having some issues with room length.

By pushing the screen wall back a bit? The KL-650s are about 12 inches deep - how close to the screen do you think they can get? I was going to abut them against the front wall (mounted on shelves) and then surround them with the 2" OC 703.
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post #97 of 199
4/17/12 at 6:16am
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post

By pushing the screen wall back a bit? The KL-650s are about 12 inches deep - how close to the screen do you think they can get? I was going to abut them against the front wall (mounted on shelves) and then surround them with the 2" OC 703.

Now I don't have an AT screen so I hope the information I'm giving you is correct. I think most people have a 24" space from the front wall to the false screen wall. The Legato's are 16-5/8" in diameter and your mains are 12 inches deep. You could possibly go 18" on your false wall to front wall. It's only 6" but in a room that isn't very long then you have to make every inch count. Here is a link to Art Sonneborn's theater. It looks like a pretty tight fit and he was able to get some very heavy duty equipment behind his screen.

http://www.artsonneborn.com//html/chronicle_54.html
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post #98 of 199
4/17/12 at 7:59am
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post


Thanks jim! I think I like the bottom one with 4' x 4' panels better too. I can't wait to start framing!

1) Undecided on subs. Possibly getting the Klipsch THX Ultra 2 subs from AVS store (Mike Garrett has been very helpful!) to match the KL 650s and KS-7800s. Had also thought about getting a single Seaton Submersive HP. Any thoughts?

2) Yeah, not enough room to have another column on the door-wall and still fit the acoustic treatments in, so that column will be by itself.

3) Rear speakers will go in the columns

Seating stuff is awesome! I have a friend who has his stuff. Very good. I'm a big triad fan. I just have always thought they were very good speakers and they are American made . I'm using 4 subs. One on each wall. 3 will be in columns. Bronze 6" deep inwalls and the forth will be Inroom behind my screen. I went with 4 to even out the bass response.
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post #99 of 199
4/17/12 at 8:00am
Quote:
Originally Posted by JVoth View Post


As far as the subs go, for a theater that is as high quality as this one will be, I don't think a single sub will suffice. A submersive will get you the spl's you need, but dual subs will get you better response in the room. Dual THX Ultra Klipsch subs will be bad ass but if you can get dual Seaton's, you will be "The Man", period.

Ya deff agree!!! The man!
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post #100 of 199
4/22/12 at 8:00pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimim View Post

Seating stuff is awesome! I have a friend who has his stuff. Very good. I'm a big triad fan. I just have always thought they were very good speakers and they are American made . I'm using 4 subs. One on each wall. 3 will be in columns. Bronze 6" deep inwalls and the forth will be Inroom behind my screen. I went with 4 to even out the bass response.

Well, I ordered the chairs -- so that's one thing done! Probably will finalize the electronics this week. I'm leaning towards the SVS Legato subs (comes with an amp), Klipsch KL-650s for the LCRs, Klipsch KS-7800 in walls for the surrounds (to go in the columns, Marantz AV7005 controller, Outlaw 7700 amp, JVC RS45 projector.

Here is a 3D model of how I envision the theater to look (carpet is just a texture I found on Sketchup -- will be looking into carpet this week):

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post #101 of 199
4/23/12 at 8:34am
Like I said before, high quality. I'm looking forward to following this build.
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post #102 of 199
4/23/12 at 6:32pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JVoth View Post

Like I said before, high quality. I'm looking forward to following this build.

Well, again thanks! I appreciate any comments or suggestions.
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post #103 of 199
4/29/12 at 12:36pm
Thread Starter 
Met with my contractor yesterday, and looks like we will start framing in two weeks. I've got most of the details planned out, but HVAC continues to give me anxiety.

I think I have decided to run the supply over the top of the ceiling and then drop down into a soffit muffler:



I will keep the dead vent next to the HVAC unit and vent it to the unfinished basement. This brings up a few questions:

1) Is one supply enough?

2) What size fan for the return would be adequate?

3) Should I add a return for the projector which dumps into the dead vent with a second inline fan -- as seen in 235 build? I had not planned on having a sealed hush box, so I could just make sure the box has some ventilation in the back as an alternative. I guess I could also seal it up and hook it up to the return, but I don't want to get into anything too complicated (already feel I'm in over my head!).
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post #104 of 199
5/14/12 at 7:39pm
Thread Starter 
Phase 1 of construction starts tomorrow! I also put in an order with Mike Garrett at the AVS store last week, and the first few items are already on their way and should be on my porch Wednesday. Pretty exciting. So, I have a couple of construction queries...below is what will become the front wall of the theater:



The drywall is covering the stairwell that you can see in the floorplan in post #1 of this thread. It will have to be torn out to avoid "triple-leaf effect". The problems is the spacing of the ceiling joists:



The back edge of the joist sits right on the edge of the drywall. I am doing a double stud wall, and theater studs ideally would be just an inch away from the stair studs. However, how can I place the DC-04 clips on the top plate of the theater stud wall since the joist will be sitting directly above? I don't want to move the front wall any further forward and lose precious inches of length in the room. Help!

Also, any thoughts on my HVAC questions above? Anyone? Anyone?
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post #105 of 199
5/15/12 at 10:40am
From what I've been able to figure out by reading the forum, there are few rules of thumb to help determine the size of your dead vent and fan.

You need to shoot for six air exchanges every hour. So calculate the total volume of your room (length x width x height for a rectangular room). Multiply that number by six (you want six exchanges per hour). This number is the total cubic feet per hour, so divide that by 60 to convert to cubic feet per minute. You can use that number to pick a fan.

The next catch is to keep your air velocity below 250 feet per minute. That will determine the size of the dead vent opening, or you can increase the number of vents and move less air through each. To get a rough estimate of the air velocity you divide the cfm in your pipe by the cross sectional area of the pipe or AC register. This is a rough estimate because air is compressible.
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post #106 of 199
5/15/12 at 8:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post

The back edge of the joist sits right on the edge of the drywall. I am doing a double stud wall, and theater studs ideally would be just an inch away from the stair studs. However, how can I place the DC-04 clips on the top plate of the theater stud wall since the joist will be sitting directly above? I don't want to move the front wall any further forward and lose precious inches of length in the room. Help!

The DC-04 clips don't have to attach to the ceiling joists, nor every joist. If you need the support for this wall then just mount the clips to the stairwell wall -- its still decoupled. BTW it's best to make sure the studs on your new wall are staggered relative to the existing wall so studs don't directly align.
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post #107 of 199
5/15/12 at 8:44pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

From what I've been able to figure out by reading the forum, there are few rules of thumb to help determine the size of your dead vent and fan.

You need to shoot for six air exchanges every hour. So calculate the total volume of your room (length x width x height for a rectangular room). Multiply that number by six (you want six exchanges per hour). This number is the total cubic feet per hour, so divide that by 60 to convert to cubic feet per minute. You can use that number to pick a fan.

The next catch is to keep your air velocity below 250 feet per minute. That will determine the size of the dead vent opening, or you can increase the number of vents and move less air through each. To get a rough estimate of the air velocity you divide the cfm in your pipe by the cross sectional area of the pipe or AC register. This is a rough estimate because air is compressible.

Also remember you need at least 500 btu cooling per person.
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post #108 of 199
5/16/12 at 4:23am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by J_P_A View Post

From what I've been able to figure out by reading the forum, there are few rules of thumb to help determine the size of your dead vent and fan.

You need to shoot for six air exchanges every hour. So calculate the total volume of your room (length x width x height for a rectangular room). Multiply that number by six (you want six exchanges per hour). This number is the total cubic feet per hour, so divide that by 60 to convert to cubic feet per minute. You can use that number to pick a fan.

The next catch is to keep your air velocity below 250 feet per minute. That will determine the size of the dead vent opening, or you can increase the number of vents and move less air through each. To get a rough estimate of the air velocity you divide the cfm in your pipe by the cross sectional area of the pipe or AC register. This is a rough estimate because air is compressible.

Cool, thanks for the numbers! I'll do the calculations this evening if I get a chance.
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post #109 of 199
5/16/12 at 4:25am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moggie View Post

The DC-04 clips don't have to attach to the ceiling joists, nor every joist. If you need the support for this wall then just mount the clips to the stairwell wall -- its still decoupled. BTW it's best to make sure the studs on your new wall are staggered relative to the existing wall so studs don't directly align.

Thanks for the tip, Moggie...I hadn't thought of that when talking to the contractor yesterday! And attaching clips to the stairwell stud wall will still provide enough support for the theater wall wtih a layer of OSB plus drywall?
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post #110 of 199
5/16/12 at 6:10am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moggie View Post

The DC-04 clips don't have to attach to the ceiling joists, nor every joist. If you need the support for this wall then just mount the clips to the stairwell wall -- its still decoupled.

Yep. The clips can be connected to the joists, or blocking between joists. Less desirable is to connect the clips to the stairwell wall, as any connection is not 100% lossy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moggie View Post

BTW it's best to make sure the studs on your new wall are staggered relative to the existing wall so studs don't directly align.

In my lab experience, this is an unnecessary goal.
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post #111 of 199
5/16/12 at 6:57am
Thread Starter 
Does it matter which direction the clips are oriented in? We taped out where the edge of the stud will be, and it looks like we can still put the grommet part of the clip on the top plate, but the metal "L" part will be facing the joist (and thus screwed into the "back" of the clip) instead of facing away (if that makes sense).
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post #112 of 199
5/16/12 at 7:41am
IB-3 can be oriented in any direction
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post #113 of 199
5/16/12 at 8:22pm
Thread Starter 
Got the DC-04 clips today. The guys will start building the stud walls in the next few days



In this picture, they have put masking tape where the edge of the stud will be (one inch off the stairwell wall). So, it's ok to orient the clip as I've shown -- with the rubber grommet on top of the top plate? There is a slight ridge on the front face of the clip, so if oriented this way, the clip won't sit completely flush with the side of the joist. Is that ok?

Blocking for the joist won't help (I think?). Any other suggestions? Even attaching the clip to the stairwell studs will be difficult, because there is some blocking on the other side of the joist which prevents sliding the clip up into that space - you can just see it as a darker brown wood next to the joist in the above picture.
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post #114 of 199
5/19/12 at 7:36am
Thread Starter 
Got a delivery on Thursday...rack, speakers, subs, PJ...very exciting. Screen is on order...ended up getting Screen Excellence TAM2 120" with CIH motorized masking.





Friday, the first wall went up. This is the rear wall of the theater. Had to attach blocking to the joist and then a 2x4 crosswise along the rear wall to attach the DC-04 clips.



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post #115 of 199
5/19/12 at 7:45am
Thread Starter 
Electrical planning

Planning on using a 6-zone Grafik Eye QS for lighting control. I will put 50W cans in a lighting tray very similar to Mario's in the Cinemar thread. How many cans is ideal? I was thinking 3 up front and in back, and then 4 each along the side walls -- too much, too little?

I'm going to run a 20 A circuit to the rack, which came with a power strip/surge protector from Middle Atlantic. I have been told that a power conditioner would be overkill so I'm thinking that I can save some money there - good idea?

I was also told that connecting the PJ to the same circuit as the rack would help avoid ground loops. Is this true or should I run a separate circuit to the PJ? Should I put a surge protector/conditioner in the box with the PJ and anamorphic lens?
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post #116 of 199
5/19/12 at 2:23pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post

Electrical planning

Planning on using a 6-zone Grafik Eye QS for lighting control. I will put 50W cans in a lighting tray very similar to Mario's in the Cinemar thread. How many cans is ideal? I was thinking 3 up front and in back, and then 4 each along the side walls -- too much, too little?

I'm going to run a 20 A circuit to the rack, which came with a power strip/surge protector from Middle Atlantic. I have been told that a power conditioner would be overkill so I'm thinking that I can save some money there - good idea?

I was also told that connecting the PJ to the same circuit as the rack would help avoid ground loops. Is this true or should I run a separate circuit to the PJ? Should I put a surge protector/conditioner in the box with the PJ and anamorphic lens?

I would use a battery backup for your PJ and any blu-ray players, pre-amps and DVR's. Anything else such as amps or subs should have a power conditioner or at the very least, a high quality surge protector such as a Brickwall or Surge-X which happen to also be power conditioners. Your projector especially should have an UPS in case of a power outage while it is running. When powering a PJ down, the fan continues to run to cool down the lamp. If there is an outage or brownout, you can severely lower lamp life and it can possibly bust inside your unit. I don't think power conditioning makes video better or speakers sound better, but they do provide protection from brownouts which can be very damaging. I only speak on this issue because I have had brownouts/blackouts destroy the HDMI board on my pre/amp, blu-ray player, and DVR. No one needs a power delivery system that costs thousands but a Brickwall surge protector can be had for under $500 and you can find APC battery backup units for under $500 as well. APC and Monster carry warranties that will cover six figures worth of equipment if the fail. It's a piece of mind thing for me.
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post #117 of 199
5/19/12 at 6:22pm
I used an APC S20BLK UPS/Power Conditioner to power my projector, pre/pro, blu-ray, HD-DVD, DirecTV, Cable Box, and URC remote controls. Worked great, and had no problems with power failures, ground loops, etc.
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post #118 of 199
5/20/12 at 6:44am
Thread Starter 
Thanks, JVoth and LeBon. We do have brownouts here from time to time, so I guess I had better look into this. Saving another $500 when I have this much equipment stacked up doesn't make sense. I assume I will have to get a battery backup for the projector and a separate battery backup/power conditioner for the rack.

Do you have the projector on the same circuit as the other equipment?
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post #119 of 199
5/20/12 at 7:29am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeBon View Post

I used an APC S20BLK UPS/Power Conditioner to power my projector, pre/pro, blu-ray, HD-DVD, DirecTV, Cable Box, and URC remote controls. Worked great, and had no problems with power failures, ground loops, etc.

Doing some web searching...I can't seem to find a combined UPS/conditioner rated for 20 Amp circuits. My plan was to pull a 20 A circuit to the rack -- should I stick with a 15 A or is there a combined unit out there rated for 20 A?
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post #120 of 199
5/20/12 at 8:47am
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs691919 View Post


Doing some web searching...I can't seem to find a combined UPS/conditioner rated for 20 Amp circuits. My plan was to pull a 20 A circuit to the rack -- should I stick with a 15 A or is there a combined unit out there rated for 20 A?

Either way should be fine. I'm not sure what equipment you will have but I'm sure a 15 amp dedicated circuit will more than suffice. The only thing that may present a problem is if you have a really high powered amplifier like an Outlaw 7900.
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