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Jautor's Rock Creek Theater - A post-build retrospective - Page 9

post #241 of 304
Quote:
Originally Posted by petew View Post

I had five segments of my incandescent rope light fail within the first 20 hours of use (about 150' total length). Out of eleven fixtures with GU10 lamps, four of the bulbs failed within hours of installation. Chinese bulbs SUCK IMHO. I don't have any experience with LED rope.
Hmmm.... Now that worries me.... I know LED will last virtually forever. But don't like them due to the color temperature that I need (warm). Tried a few, none of them are really warm/yellow color. That's why I decided to go for the incandescent.
post #242 of 304
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by landshark1 View Post

Your HT is one of my all time favorite, both the design, layout, AND the color! And I finally finished up reading the whole thread (don't know why I didn't do it earlier). Great write up especially when looking back in time. smile.gif

Thanks! Glad you found the thread useful. It was fun to write all in hindsight, as there's no stress involved at that point. smile.gif
Quote:
One quick question, I saw you guys discussed about the rope light vs LED. How's your rope light holding up now? 'Cos I'm going to use regular incandescent rope light on mine too, and worried about the durability of the light. My installation will put the light in quite permanently, means it ain't gonna be easy to replace/repair.....

Why is it that permanent? Mine is spliced to romex at the drywall, and would be easy to swap out each chunk. (same way the builder's electrician did it for all the other rope light in the house)

Soon after installation I had one section (probably 3 feet) that glitched off. I flexed the cable and it came back, and hasn't had an issue since. Everything else has been solid. But I wouldn't want to make anything permanent, even LED, as they can still fail (just for different reasons than bulb wear). "Easy" is different from "expensive / impossible without serious destruction". You should be able to pull a whole rope out without cutting into drywall, for example. You certainly don't want to run the stuff through walls - not rated for that.

Jeff
post #243 of 304
Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

Thanks! Glad you found the thread useful. It was fun to write all in hindsight, as there's no stress involved at that point. smile.gif
Why is it that permanent? Mine is spliced to romex at the drywall, and would be easy to swap out each chunk. (same way the builder's electrician did it for all the other rope light in the house)

Soon after installation I had one section (probably 3 feet) that glitched off. I flexed the cable and it came back, and hasn't had an issue since. Everything else has been solid. But I wouldn't want to make anything permanent, even LED, as they can still fail (just for different reasons than bulb wear). "Easy" is different from "expensive / impossible without serious destruction". You should be able to pull a whole rope out without cutting into drywall, for example. You certainly don't want to run the stuff through walls - not rated for that.

Jeff
Ok, thanks for the info Jeff. I think I've a solution in my case. I was planning to use glue & nail gun to mount the wall panel that will cover my rope light on the wall. Now I see you guys' discussion, I think I'll use Velcro for those panels instead. wink.gif
post #244 of 304
1000bulbs.com sent out splice kits, so my repair was easy. Annoying, but easy. Their service is quite good.
post #245 of 304
Hey Jeff,

Beautiful beautiful theatre!

My wife and I will be building our theatre room with a lot design cues from yours, and I just had a question.

The columns on either side, were those pre-built units? Or did you pay a contractor to build those? I'm researching on whether or not that would be a project I would like to take on, or pay someone to do?

Do you have any pictures that you wouldn't mind posting? I'm curious to find out how they put them together?
post #246 of 304
Thread Starter 
Radiohunter, thanks!

The columns were site-built by the finish carpenters. They're constructed from veneered-plywood and off-the-shelf molding pieces in a block-panel style. My custom builder charged $500-550 per column to build them - working with a carpenter directly would be a lot cheaper, too (that's what I get for not asking up front!). And as I mentioned way back in the thread, I "upgraded" to the wood-paneled columns way late, so there's framing and drywall behind them. And a mistake to not build those inside the room regardless of finish - as all the surround channel in-wall speakers penetrate the shell and are easily heard in the hallway and staircase behind the room. Luckily this is still many walls away from any bedrooms, so not a practical problem for me, but certainly near the top of the "Things I would do differently".

Here's a couple photos of the columns during construction - you can see they're build as a block-paneled front face, and several pieces of trim to finish the top (it's the same as the crown molding with an additional egg&dart detail).



This one is basically finished, just waiting for the crown molding to continue... Note that the side columns have romex poked through for the sconces, while none in the back. I'll come back later and decide NOT to route out the round box now behind the panel, and instead attach a pancake box/plate for the sconce.



Jeff
post #247 of 304
Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

Lighting and Electrical Trim-out



Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

Projector Installation


Side View - in this shot you can see the TechFlex cable sleeve I installed to clean up the cabling installation. I also used a power-cable splitter (Monoprice!) and short extension cord so the 12V adapter for the sled can be hidden on top of the projector instead of sitting on the ceiling:


Great looking theater Jeff. smile.gif

What is that wall plate used to feed the cables to the projector? confused.gif
post #248 of 304
Thread Starter 
That a
Quote:
Originally Posted by jroyv View Post


Great looking theater Jeff. smile.gif

What is that wall plate used to feed the cables to the projector? confused.gif

Thanks! That's a PowerBridge. There are similar products from other companies, but for projectors I prefer the look of the PowerBridge.

They have an AVS discount, too...
http://www.powerbridgesolution.com/avsspecialorder.html

Jeff
post #249 of 304
Thanks Jeff,

I hadn't seen the long narrow PowerBridge before only the bulky square ones.

It's kinda funny the little things we pick out of other peoples builds. I love your color scheme and Acoustic Panels.
post #250 of 304
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jroyv View Post

I hadn't seen the long narrow PowerBridge before only the bulky square ones.

Yep! The single/double gang designs work better for inlets for TV installations, especially when coupled with a recessed box like the Arlington units. But the horizontal design of the PowerBridge, and the fact it comes in black!, makes it IMO a better solution for projector mounts.
Quote:
It's kinda funny the little things we pick out of other peoples builds. I love your color scheme and Acoustic Panels.

Thanks! It's all about the details. When I was building my house, I had gone around to as many other homes under construction as I could find. I took a ton of pictures of little things I liked (fixtures, moldings, paint schemes, carpets, cabinet layouts, etc.), and when it was time to meet with my designers/decorator, I handed her a pile of "ideas" I liked... Turns out she had done the design work for several of the model homes I visited, and basically anything I liked - she had been responsible for! Needless to say, we got along great!

(and yes, she helped with the schemes for the theater!)

Jeff
post #251 of 304
(I know this doesn't add anything to the thread, but...)
My [capital] C-o-m-p-l-i-m-e-n-t-s! INCREDIBLE work!!! eek.gif
post #252 of 304
INCREDIBLE work!!!
post #253 of 304
Jeff,
I’m reading your theater build and would like to ask you some question; mine will be a lot like yours. I will add to this as I work through your build, I’m reading at a snails pace!! This helps me with the thread I started about 101 Home Automation.

1. Initial dimension 24’ x 14’ x 9’
2. It’s off the kitchen and the would be third bay of a three car garage
3. No noise issues, nothing above, below or to the sides
4. Finish theater construction after house (main floor) has been completed
5. Quick drawing: 1’ Blocks



6. Seating: 2 rows of 3
7. Question: Based on my drawing, dimension and location to the garage. Would you think about putting a blowout into the garage for a/v rack, with access from the garage. Then the rack is flush and does not require a pullout to access the back?
8. Lesson: 72” for riser depth, do I need more??
9. Lesson: Do not build risers into the initial floor build, build floor base and then add risers as needed??
10. Lesson: My isle width is 30”, more??
11. Question: External front speakers, but the in wall side-rear. I understand from reading the 24” requirement for a stage to enclose the L/R/C /subs and the AT screen. With 24’ length minus 2 x 6 wall (winter ID) and 12-24” stage, would you recommend internal vs external front speaker system for my setup??

12. Ceiling: Personal preference looks very good.

13. Columns & Rack:
a. Rear speaker location, how far from each corner and distance between??
b. If you had a basement, where would your rack be located? A/V home automation master rack-basement and A/V Theater sub rack-theater?
c. Column framing: All the room framing complete, drywall should go up (taped and mud??) then build the columns with only the speaker wire, electrical, etc. penetrating the drywall?? These could be sealed/insulated??

14. Media Storage Bookshelf:
a. Why don’t you use a DVD/BD storage player and a single DVD/BD player, vice the build of a storage unit?? Display on screen and choose your poison!

15. Theater Style:
a. I’m an Arts & Crafts wood style, all the furniture we have is quarter sawn red oak. With that said, your brown décor is outstanding. I agree with you about the “I’ve got too much money and no taste” décor. KISS is always the best décor over time, it ages as we do!!
b. I wish to use the same quarter sawn red oak in the theater as in the furniture, I like the fabric walls. Clean, simple!!

16. Electrical Rough-in:
a. MY sister graduated from UH, worked and lived in Houston. Hot is not understood until you shower in the house and then again as you walk to your car to go to work at 0600.
b. If the risers were not prebuilt, would you have thought about a subwoofer under the floor of the riser?? Also lighting in the sets of the riser?
d. What made you decide on a powered up/down projector vs. a stationary??
e. Did you run separate circuits for the projector, subs and rack to the main board?? Is this the issue with the UPS? All should be plugged in to a UPS for electrical integrity??
f. I missed your explanation of outlets?? I see that they are mounted horizontal vs. vertical, because the thickness off the double drywall and baseboard, you used 2 x 4 to move the boxes out?? This made them flush with your baseboard, is that correct??

17. Wiring for lighting & Planning for the Grafik Eye
a. Zone lighting, your brain is Grafik Eye. What made you choose this??
b. Does the Crestron system control the lights the same way your Grafik Eye does??

18. Low-Voltage Wiring
a. From your rack you had conduit run, size and where??
b. Why Cat5e vs Cat6??
c. Belden Precision 1694A RG6, this is speaker wire or coax cable?
d. Cat5e is used for speaker wire vice 16/2 or 16/4
post #254 of 304
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by udtsealeod View Post

Jeff,
I’m reading your theater build and would like to ask you some question; mine will be a lot like yours. I will add to this as I work through your build, I’m reading at a snails pace!! This helps me with the thread I started about 101 Home Automation.

That's a lot of questions! Ok, here goes...
Quote:
Question: Based on my drawing, dimension and location to the garage. Would you think about putting a blowout into the garage for a/v rack, with access from the garage. Then the rack is flush and does not require a pullout to access the back?

You shouldn't vent to unconditioned space and you absolutely can't pull air in from the garage (unsafe). Vent your AV closet/stack to your HVAC system's return, or dump the heat into an adjacent space in the basement since it'll probably be cool there anyway.
Quote:
8. Lesson: 72” for riser depth, do I need more??

BIGmouthinDC will tell you that you need 6.5' (78") between rows of theater recliners. Your diagram shows a good placement of the back row a few feet away from the rear wall. But if those are going to be theater recliners, you'll need several more feet of riser - an 8-9' total riser depth would be appropriate - and you've got plenty of space for it.
Quote:
9. Lesson: Do not build risers into the initial floor build, build floor base and then add risers as needed??

Yep. Lesson learned.
Quote:
10. Lesson: My isle width is 30”, more??

You don't have much width to spare - a 30" aisle is plenty, mine is only 18" and it's only moderately tight. The fact that the recliners aren't very high prevents it from feeling too tight. But yes, lesson learned - I'd have liked another 6" or more on each side. 30" from the walls will also help with surround sound consistency.
Quote:
11. Question: External front speakers, but the in wall side-rear. I understand from reading the 24” requirement for a stage to enclose the L/R/C /subs and the AT screen. With 24’ length minus 2 x 6 wall (winter ID) and 12-24” stage, would you recommend internal vs external front speaker system for my setup??

While there's some personal preferences there, I think in general the benefits of an acoustically transparent (AT) screen with the LCR speakers behind should push you in that direction. You'll have the >8-10' minimum viewing distance to avoid seeing the screen mesh, and as I said in the thread, getting the speakers further from the front row will give you better volume consistency for all the seats.
Quote:
12. Ceiling: Personal preference looks very good.

Thanks!
Quote:
Rear speaker location, how far from each corner and distance between??

Your placement on your grid looks pretty good to me. I would get them at least 2-3' from the corners, which you have done. Side surrounds at or slightly behind the seats, 12-18" above seated ear level. Some folks may comment about the choice of using multiple side-surrounds because of the potential interference / imaging. I think mine worked out well, but I may have gotten lucky...
Quote:
b. If you had a basement, where would your rack be located? A/V home automation master rack-basement and A/V Theater sub rack-theater?

Ah, basements... One of the few things I miss from living in the Midwest, along with excellent pizza...

If the utility closet / furnace room was near enough to the theater to be convenient, I'd put everything in there. If the rack can be exposed to the theater entryway to make it easy to make adjustments and insert discs, even better. If I started my home design over from total scratch again, I'd have put my gameroom closet adjacent to the rear of the theater, and made it serve as my home AV closet as well. I'd probably keep the theater gear exposed into the room, though, as it does look nice. biggrin.gif
Quote:
c. Column framing: All the room framing complete, drywall should go up (taped and mud??) then build the columns with only the speaker wire, electrical, etc. penetrating the drywall?? These could be sealed/insulated??

Yep! You're definitely learning my lessons!
Quote:
14. Media Storage Bookshelf:
a. Why don’t you use a DVD/BD storage player and a single DVD/BD player, vice the build of a storage unit?? Display on screen and choose your poison!

Doing it "right" means Kaleidescape. Love to have one of those systems, not willing to pay for it. Doing it "pretty well these days" means a DIY HTPC setup and a bunch of hard drives. I will probably do a BD media server at some point, but don't expect to house the whole collection - just the cartoons / Pixar stuff and enough of the "clip / demo" material that can be called up easily. The benefits to having a hard drive copy of the BD's is convenience and ease of whole-house distribution. Since I'll watch movies in the theater, and only distribute kids' movies elsewhere (and do) in the house, it hasn't been worth the time/expense for me to do it.
Quote:
15. Theater Style:
a. I’m an Arts & Crafts wood style, all the furniture we have is quarter sawn red oak. With that said, your brown décor is outstanding. I agree with you about the “I’ve got too much money and no taste” décor. KISS is always the best décor over time, it ages as we do!!
b. I wish to use the same quarter sawn red oak in the theater as in the furniture, I like the fabric walls. Clean, simple!!

Glad you like it - I like the Craftsman style as well - there are some examples IIRC in the "show me your completed theater" thread of theaters in that style. A blend of deco / craftsman could be cool, too!
Quote:
16. Electrical Rough-in:
a. MY sister graduated from UH, worked and lived in Houston. Hot is not understood until you shower in the house and then again as you walk to your car to go to work at 0600.
b. If the risers were not prebuilt, would you have thought about a subwoofer under the floor of the riser?? Also lighting in the sets of the riser?

Nope - you don't want the sub in the floor. Lighting under the seats or in the cupholders - I am not a fan. If they were subtle, dim, and white, maybe... A bunch of blue LEDs doesn't match the style of the room (I'll leave it at that... biggrin.gif )
Quote:
d. What made you decide on a powered up/down projector vs. a stationary??

confused.gif The room is dedicated, and I was going to expose the speakers, so having the projector visible wasn't an issue for me. If it was, concealing it into the soffit would have been my choice. Motorized mounts aren't usually used in dedicated theaters - since you can generally build the theater to house the projector correctly. Non-dedicated spaces with retractable screens is another story, completely...
Quote:
e. Did you run separate circuits for the projector, subs and rack to the main board?? Is this the issue with the UPS? All should be plugged in to a UPS for electrical integrity??

The rack, speakers and projector are all on one circuit. I could install a UPS, but haven't. Our power is very reliable, and if a storm knocks the power out during a movie - I'll just not turn the projector back on, which is the only real issue - striking a hot lamp again.
Quote:
f. I missed your explanation of outlets?? I see that they are mounted horizontal vs. vertical, because the thickness off the double drywall and baseboard, you used 2 x 4 to move the boxes out?? This made them flush with your baseboard, is that correct??

The 2x4 was to provide height (spacer) to get the boxes off the floor, and centered into the eventual baseboard. The depth (DD + baseboard) required the use of outlet box extenders.
Quote:
17. Wiring for lighting & Planning for the Grafik Eye
a. Zone lighting, your brain is Grafik Eye. What made you choose this??
b. Does the Crestron system control the lights the same way your Grafik Eye does??

It's a great system for a theater. Crestron can control just about anything that has an interface - I believe they have a specific module to interface with the GrafikEye, too. But there are RS232 / IP / IR interfaces possible...
Quote:
18. Low-Voltage Wiring
a. From your rack you had conduit run, size and where??
b. Why Cat5e vs Cat6??
c. Belden Precision 1694A RG6, this is speaker wire or coax cable?
d. Cat5e is used for speaker wire vice 16/2 or 16/4

I ran conduit from the rack to 1) the attic, 2) the projector and 3) to the front wall. It's all 1.5-2" Carlon Resigard (I'll have to look up which one)

My house is all Cat5e, so I just kept with it to be consistent, and knowing that cat6 is probably overkill for the next decade... But the wire cost is minimal now, so running cat6 today is probably the better answer. And no, speaker wire is the one AV thing that requires a different cable type. For a theater run 12-14AWG wire. 16/2 or 16/4 is common for whole house audio due to cost of running thicker cables for lots of runs. If you're planning to run AVRs remotely, you should spend the extra bucks for 12AWG on those runs, as the distance can impact the performance otherwise.

The Belden wire is for line-level subwoofer (.1) channels from the AVR / processor. That wire is specially made for these purposes, but RG59 generally is better than RG6 for subwoofer applications. It's the shield / insulator construction that's the difference we care about.

You made it an awful long way through the thread before asking the first question - glad you didn't save them ALL for the end!


Jeff
post #255 of 304
[QUOTEYou shouldn't vent to unconditioned space and you absolutely can't pull air in from the garage (unsafe). Vent your AV closet/stack to your HVAC system's return, or dump the heat into an adjacent space in the basement since it'll probably be cool there anyway.][/QUOTE]

Didn't mean air vent, I meant to build a storage cabinet into the garage and access it from the garage by a door. Run all the wire in from the theater into the bottom/top and connect. This would leave the front flush without a pullout and easier to connect to the basement central a/v rack??

Without the use of a computer storage system for DVD/BD, I think the 400 unit players are a better way to store and play vs a cabinet to pull from. Who won't want them all uploaded and stored on a hard drive, that's how all my CD's are stored and played.

[QUOTENope - you don't want the sub in the floor. Lighting under the seats or in the cupholders - I am not a fan. If they were subtle, dim, and white, maybe... A bunch of blue LEDs doesn't match the style of the room (I'll leave it at that... biggrin.gif )][/QUOTE]

My bad, lighting in the steps of the risers? Why not a sub under the riser, great physical reaction to bass!!

So that is what the cord/cable is on my Rel subwoofer, education never stops!!! Thank you for the feedback, my next input from your build will be short.
post #256 of 304
Next installment, I said shorter!

19. HVAC
a. CoolComponents.com - Ceiling Vent System (Inline Duct Fan) for cooling/venting a/v closets best way to vent/cool space??
b. Lesson: The a/v closet construction should have been from floor to ceiling, allowing more vent space??

20. Insulation & Drywall
a. Education: Insulation-Drywall/Screwed-Green Glue-Drywall/Screwed insulates and soundproofs??
b. Why wood sides instead of drywall sides in cabinet build?

21. Woodwork & Surround Speaker Placement
a. Pre-install speaker frames-these come with the wall/ceiling speakers?
b. If built on top of drywall, what would be the width & depth??
post #257 of 304
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by udtsealeod View Post

Didn't mean air vent, I meant to build a storage cabinet into the garage and access it from the garage by a door. Run all the wire in from the theater into the bottom/top and connect. This would leave the front flush without a pullout and easier to connect to the basement central a/v rack??

Yep, just make sure that space has adequate venting / cooling to and from other conditioned spaces. You can't exchange any air with the garage, and any door needs to seal up.
Quote:
Without the use of a computer storage system for DVD/BD, I think the 400 unit players are a better way to store and play vs a cabinet to pull from.

The user interface on that changer isn't the best, the DIY media servers are much better.
Quote:
Who won't want them all uploaded and stored on a hard drive, that's how all my CD's are stored and played.

Music is used much differently than movies. But having all the BDs on a server is a good thing - I'm just saying that for me, it hasn't been worth the time or expense. I can grab a BD and load it up pretty easily. But I do that once an evening...
Quote:
My bad, lighting in the steps of the risers?

Personal choice, I went with step lights instead of the under-tread rope.
Quote:
Why not a sub under the riser, great physical reaction to bass!!

You don't use a sub that way, it would be a waste and not perform well. But if you want the shake, you can easily install tactile transducers (aka "Buttkicker") into the seats. Just a bit a wiring to prepare for them, and you can get them pre-installed in some brands of theater recliners. I'm not a fan of them personally, but I did put wire in place for them, and many folks here on the forum have them and love'em... That will get you the "feel" without having to generate so much bass energy (that you then need to contain).
Quote:
So that is what the cord/cable is on my Rel subwoofer, education never stops!!!

Power and line-level audio. You just run a coax cable (RG59) and terminate it with an RCA jack. Or, perhaps easier, terminate the coax cable with F-connectors and use an F-to-RCA fitting to connect to the subwoofer. I bought my Belden wire for the sub in nice pre-made 50' lengths and connected them to a wall plate keystone. Then an F-to-RCA adapter and a common RCA cable as a jumper from the wall plate to the sub.

Jeff
post #258 of 304
Quote:
You can't exchange any air with the garage, and any door needs to seal up.

Why?

You missed the next three section above.
post #259 of 304
umm I dunno, maybe a lil thing called carbon monoxide?
post #260 of 304
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by udtsealeod View Post

Next installment, I said shorter!

19. HVAC
a. CoolComponents.com - Ceiling Vent System (Inline Duct Fan) for cooling/venting a/v closets best way to vent/cool space??
b. Lesson: The a/v closet construction should have been from floor to ceiling, allowing more vent space??

Yes - I didn't plan for the top of the rack to be solid, so if the vent wasn't raised, the rack top would have blocked the vent except for small fan vent holes. There was no benefit to bringing the "ceiling" above the rack down - leaving it at ceiling height would have been better and easier - it would still be hidden behind the wall anyway.
Quote:
20. Insulation & Drywall
a. Education: Insulation-Drywall/Screwed-Green Glue-Drywall/Screwed insulates and soundproofs??
b. Why wood sides instead of drywall sides in cabinet build?

Framing and drywall isn't precise like a piece of cabinetry - the wall isn't 100% square in all directions - when I roll the rack out, it scrapes the top right corner of the side wall. A wood box built would have been square.
Quote:
21. Woodwork & Surround Speaker Placement
a. Pre-install speaker frames-these come with the wall/ceiling speakers?
b. If built on top of drywall, what would be the width & depth??

Pre-install brackets are sold by many speaker manufacturers specifically for their speakers. It makes things easier, but not mandatory. The "generic" adjustable brackets I used aren't available anymore and EZ-Bracket has apparently gone out of business... Dimensions for cut-outs are speaker-specific, and any speaker maker worth considering will have those dimensions in their specs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdika17 View Post

umm I dunno, maybe a lil thing called carbon monoxide?

Yep, that's why. Exchanging unconditioned air is a bad idea generally (unless done with a heat exchanger as part of a fresh air system), but in the garage hazardous gas potential makes that an absolute no-no.


Jeff
post #261 of 304
Just finished another few section of your build, so more question.

Digression:

1. Did you use an outside design company/person, or was this all out of your own research and knowledge.
2. If research, other than AVS and CEDIA what helped you the most?
3. Room construction, standard 2x4, normal insulation, etc..? Other than DD/GG, no other special soundproofing?
4. What is your viewing profile (what you watch), doesn't this determine the project/screen decision?

OK, back to business:

22. Color, Stain, Paint, & Carpet
a. Brown is a very warm and comfortable color scheme.
b. What type of wood did you use for your trim?

23. Lighting & Electrical Trim-out
a. Lesson: Add recess lighting for reading, add to Grafik Eye.

24. Rack Installation:
a. Now this takes a lot of acquired knowledge to put together! BZ
b. Sent PM.
c. If access to the rack was from the rear, then life becomes easier?

25. Acoustic Panels
a. Sent PM.
post #262 of 304
26. Seating
a. Would you get quad singles if width was not an issue?
b. Curved or straight quad if width was not an issue?
c. How many people at one time normal use the theater?
d. How many people use your bar seating, why? Quads full or are they eating something?

27. Projector and Screen Selection
a. Why Carada Masquerade CIH? Not the company, the concept.
b. Fixed flat or curved screen for the 136" if they offered it?
post #263 of 304
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by udtsealeod View Post

1. Did you use an outside design company/person, or was this all out of your own research and knowledge.
2. If research, other than AVS and CEDIA what helped you the most?

Outside of discussions with forum folks and a lot of manufacturer's personnel at CEDIA and on the phone, that was it for the AV / Theater portions. I did have an interior decorator helping with the colors / furnishings, as she had worked on the whole house, so it was an easy call...
Quote:
3. Room construction, standard 2x4, normal insulation, etc..? Other than DD/GG, no other special soundproofing?

A rubber underlay for the carpet, which was probably unnecessary, and a solid core door with seals. The door is paneled, however, and remains the weak point. The house was designed with the theater several walls away from any bedroom, so my soundproofing needs were "moderate". Seeing how little the extra efforts actually cost as a percentage of the project, doing it over (and adding a bit more space), I probably would have chosen the clips & channel. But certainly wouldn't have done "less", the noise floor in the room is noticeably lower than even the hallway just outside of it.
Quote:
4. What is your viewing profile (what you watch), doesn't this determine the project/screen decision?

Usage is probably 70% movies, 20% sports/events and 10% TV. That breakdown probably influences the screen ratio and the screen material choice, as if you were going to have the lights on most of the time (all sports watching), a 16x9 screen with better ambient light rejection would be prudent.
Quote:
22. Color, Stain, Paint, & Carpet
a. Brown is a very warm and comfortable color scheme.
b. What type of wood did you use for your trim?

I didn't pay extra for premium wood selections, so it's standard clear pine and likely birch plywood on the columns. Which matches the rest of the house.
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24. Rack Installation:
a. Now this takes a lot of acquired knowledge to put together! BZ

Studying the Middle Atlantic site and their white papers is essential for all the rack pieces - a good look through their gear at CEDIA and talking with their helpful folks is worth the trip by itself. A normal set of sources get hooked up with a single HDMI cable these days, perhaps a patch cable for Ethernet. It's when you get into the control gear, legacy stuff and "extras" that it gets more complicated. Note that the majority of wires I pulled to the rack from around the room are not even used currently...
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c. If access to the rack was from the rear, then life becomes easier?

Much.
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Originally Posted by udtsealeod View Post

26. Seating
a. Would you get quad singles if width was not an issue?

Probably (which in hindsight I could have fit as I ended up with a 3-4" gap between the chair and the stair tread). The "loveseat" configuration doesn't function as a couch / loveseat in the sense that it's not comfortable to sit in the middle, nor can you lie down comfortably, either.
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b. Curved or straight quad if width was not an issue?

With the 2.35 screen all the seats are within the screen width, so I'd stick with straight.
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c. How many people at one time normal use the theater?

I generally invite ~20 folks for a movie, and get around 8-10. On rare occasions I've pulled one more chair into the room to fit 13. Superbowl it's completely overflowing - I think there were 17 people crammed in this time when I went to check on them (but that's my annual big party).
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d. How many people use your bar seating, why? Quads full or are they eating something?

Some folks go sit there because they like the back. Parents with kids in attendance (downstairs watching something in "Cinema B") sometimes sit there for easier in/out. I had planned it for overflow, but it seems to get used more often than that... I was more concerned about the front row being "too close", but may guests head right for the front and center.
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27. Projector and Screen Selection
a. Why Carada Masquerade CIH? Not the company, the concept.
b. Fixed flat or curved screen for the 136" if they offered it?

Curved screen with masks were out of the budget by 2-3x, especially since the Masquerade was already well above my pain threshold.

Having seen the CIH gear at CEDIA with Panamorph, I had thought about it from the start of the design. Looking through the movies I had purchased over the years, it was a 60/40 split of 2.35 / 1.85 titles. But taking into account the subset of those that I would expect to show to a group of friends, it was much more like 80/20%. So I wanted to maximize the 2.35 image - and CIH does that "correctly".

I seriously tried to do without the masking system, especially since I tend to show scope content, but it's just so cool. biggrin.gif I've shown folks the difference with the black bars on the sides (masks retracted), and while they disappear as you get into the film, pulling the masks in for 16x9 content really improves the experience. And since I have the auto masks, I start every movie night with 4x3 cartoons, then a 16x9 trailer or THX intro, then onto the main feature. For first-time guests, the progressively larger screens always gets 'em...

Jeff
post #264 of 304
Just finished your numbered sections up through Grand Opening, a lot of information to digest. With all the high end equipment, why didn't you want to use Crestron controls here and throughout your house?
post #265 of 304
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by udtsealeod View Post

With all the high end equipment, why didn't you want to use Crestron controls here and throughout your house?

Because I wanted to spend the budget on the equipment, not thousands on control system hardware followed by thousands in programming then and for every change over time. And then there's my fundamental issue with paying folks for programming - since I'm a computer/software engineer by trade...

But the theater system itself is really not complicated - while I still haven't re-done my basic iRule panels to make it easy for guests to operate without me (which hasn't really come up as a use case anyway), so the capabilities of a full-blown automation system I think are overkill for my room. Nothing a few macros can't handle.

For the rest of the house, I'll add more systems over time - but I'm not looking to pay for (or need) the integration provided by the dealer-only systems anyway.
post #266 of 304
Jautor,
Beautiful work throughout! I'm considering a stream/pond for my backyard, but I've never done one before. I recalled seeing yours and have re-read your detailed documentation. Thank you for being so thorough.

I'd be interested to see how it looks now that the plants and ecosystem have matured over the past 6-8 months. Care to share any current pictures? Have you felt the need to modify any aspect of it?

Cheers,
Jim
post #267 of 304
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim_ View Post

Jautor,
Beautiful work throughout! I'm considering a stream/pond for my backyard, but I've never done one before. I recalled seeing yours and have re-read your detailed documentation. Thank you for being so thorough.

I'd be interested to see how it looks now that the plants and ecosystem have matured over the past 6-8 months. Care to share any current pictures? Have you felt the need to modify any aspect of it?

Cheers,
Jim

Hey thanks! And you prompted me to actually do the maintenance I meant to do tonight! Here's some current pictures - the water plants are all thriving, and there's a healthy coat of algae on the liner and the rocks. I haven't check the biomedia to see how they're going, but the bog plants are certainly doing their share of cleaning.

If I'd change anything - it would be bigger. I may have overpopulated the water lilies to get good coverage last fall, as they've already covered most of the surface. So yes, another several feet more across if I was doing it over... Bog area would have been wider and perhaps narrower, to wrap a bit more around the back edge and provide more linear space for plantings. The only thing I think I'll actually add at this point is some trees or large shrubs behind the pond (back in the corner of the yard) to give a better backdrop when viewed from the patio.

I've been happy with the very low levels of maintenance overall - this pond is 4x the size of my previous one, and seems to require about 1/4th the work to keep it in shape. So yes, nature works and the larger the pond, the more it works "naturally". Water quality is good so no plans to add any additional filtration. I have been adding an algaecide every week or so (when I remember) as I do get clumps of it, although that hasn't been an issue since the spring (which tells me the biofilter / bog is working now). If that cycle repeats in the fall/winter timeframe, I could see adding an inline UV sterilizer, which wouldn't be difficult at all.

The bog garden:



The pond:




The stream has become quite a hit with the natives... I'd have made it longer with some more 'still' areas to facilitate this.



And all of the fish are still around - no Heron visits since the fall. I've got a number of new fish - a native Texas species that I didn't buy! I assume they came along as eggs with the birds that washed them off in the stream. I bought a couple bottom-feeding plecostomus (es)?, which I released and haven't seen since - so assuming they're alive and well they're probably feasting on the bottom, and I'll catch a glimpse of them in the fall when they''ll be 8-12" long, if history repeats itself...

Thanks for the prompting!

Jeff
post #268 of 304
Wow! It looks even better as all the plants have matured. Thank you for sharing the current pictures and your experiences. Great job!

Cheers,
Jim
post #269 of 304
Jeff,
Recommendation; wires to pull?
1. Theater Room, a/v closet in theater room
a. L/C/R 16/2 each
b. Sub 14/2 each
c. Rear/Side 16/2 each
d. do you recommend all lengths the same?
e. Projector HDMI or CAT6 (2) each (1 backup)
f. control system TBD

2. TV Station zones
a. RG6 (2) HDTV
b. CAT6 (2) internet/extra
c. CAT6 (1) zone a/v rack
d. a/v rack mech room

3. Ceiling Speaker zones
a. 16/4 with 16/2 connection between speakers sets
b. CAT6 zone wall control
c. CAT6 zone a/v rack
d. a/v rack mech room

4. Mechanical Room Primary/House A/V rack
a. DirecTV control
b. Internet router
c. TBD control system
d. Apple TV
e. AVR
f. Surge controller

I know I forgot something, but it's a start. Try not hitting me to hard!
post #270 of 304
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by udtsealeod View Post

Jeff,
Recommendation; wires to pull?
1. Theater Room, a/v closet in theater room
a. L/C/R 16/2 each
b. Sub 14/2 each
c. Rear/Side 16/2 each
d. do you recommend all lengths the same?
e. Projector HDMI or CAT6 (2) each (1 backup)
f. control system TBD

2. TV Station zones
a. RG6 (2) HDTV
b. CAT6 (2) internet/extra
c. CAT6 (1) zone a/v rack
d. a/v rack mech room

3. Ceiling Speaker zones
a. 16/4 with 16/2 connection between speakers sets
b. CAT6 zone wall control
c. CAT6 zone a/v rack
d. a/v rack mech room

4. Mechanical Room Primary/House A/V rack
a. DirecTV control
b. Internet router
c. TBD control system
d. Apple TV
e. AVR
f. Surge controller

I know I forgot something, but it's a start. Try not hitting me to hard!

You should probably start a thread in the A/V Distribution forum if you're going to be talking about the whole house... biggrin.gif

For the theater and the higher power / performance speakers - I'd use 14AWG at least. Wire length differences aren't important with the potential exception of dual-cable HDMI extenders (but in that case, the wires are going to/from the same location anyway). The subwoofer location will need an RG59 coax line from the AVR location for the .1 LFE channel - since most subwoofers are self-powered.

I'd recommend creating a floorplan showing cable locations, types and quantities - and posting that in the AV Distribution forum -you'll get wider views and feedback there...

Jeff
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