Originally Posted by udtsealeod
I’m reading your theater build and would like to ask you some question; mine will be a lot like yours. I will add to this as I work through your build, I’m reading at a snails pace!! This helps me with the thread I started about 101 Home Automation.
That's a lot of questions! Ok, here goes...
Question: Based on my drawing, dimension and location to the garage. Would you think about putting a blowout into the garage for a/v rack, with access from the garage. Then the rack is flush and does not require a pullout to access the back?
You shouldn't vent to unconditioned space and you absolutely can't pull air in from the garage (unsafe). Vent your AV closet/stack to your HVAC system's return, or dump the heat into an adjacent space in the basement since it'll probably be cool there anyway.
8. Lesson: 72” for riser depth, do I need more??
BIGmouthinDC will tell you that you need 6.5' (78") between rows of theater recliners. Your diagram shows a good placement of the back row a few feet away from the rear wall. But if those are going to be theater recliners, you'll need several more feet of riser - an 8-9' total riser depth would be appropriate - and you've got plenty of space for it.
9. Lesson: Do not build risers into the initial floor build, build floor base and then add risers as needed??
Yep. Lesson learned.
10. Lesson: My isle width is 30”, more??
You don't have much width to spare - a 30" aisle is plenty, mine is only 18" and it's only moderately tight. The fact that the recliners aren't very high prevents it from feeling too tight. But yes, lesson learned - I'd have liked another 6" or more on each side. 30" from the walls will also help with surround sound consistency.
11. Question: External front speakers, but the in wall side-rear. I understand from reading the 24” requirement for a stage to enclose the L/R/C /subs and the AT screen. With 24’ length minus 2 x 6 wall (winter ID) and 12-24” stage, would you recommend internal vs external front speaker system for my setup??
While there's some personal preferences there, I think in general the benefits of an acoustically transparent (AT) screen with the LCR speakers behind should push you in that direction. You'll have the >8-10' minimum viewing distance to avoid seeing the screen mesh, and as I said in the thread, getting the speakers further from the front row will give you better volume consistency for all the seats.
12. Ceiling: Personal preference looks very good.
Rear speaker location, how far from each corner and distance between??
Your placement on your grid looks pretty good to me. I would get them at least 2-3' from the corners, which you have done. Side surrounds at or slightly behind the seats, 12-18" above seated ear level. Some folks may comment about the choice of using multiple side-surrounds because of the potential interference / imaging. I think mine worked out well, but I may have gotten lucky...
b. If you had a basement, where would your rack be located? A/V home automation master rack-basement and A/V Theater sub rack-theater?
Ah, basements... One of the few things I miss from living in the Midwest, along with excellent pizza...
If the utility closet / furnace room was near enough to the theater to be convenient, I'd put everything in there. If the rack can be exposed to the theater entryway to make it easy to make adjustments and insert discs, even better. If I started my home design over from total scratch again, I'd have put my gameroom closet adjacent to the rear of the theater, and made it serve as my home AV closet as well. I'd probably keep the theater gear exposed into the room, though, as it does look nice.
c. Column framing: All the room framing complete, drywall should go up (taped and mud??) then build the columns with only the speaker wire, electrical, etc. penetrating the drywall?? These could be sealed/insulated??
Yep! You're definitely learning my lessons!
14. Media Storage Bookshelf:
a. Why don’t you use a DVD/BD storage player and a single DVD/BD player, vice the build of a storage unit?? Display on screen and choose your poison!
Doing it "right" means Kaleidescape. Love to have one of those systems, not willing to pay for it. Doing it "pretty well these days" means a DIY HTPC setup and a bunch of hard drives. I will probably do a BD media server at some point, but don't expect to house the whole collection - just the cartoons / Pixar stuff and enough of the "clip / demo" material that can be called up easily. The benefits to having a hard drive copy of the BD's is convenience and ease of whole-house distribution. Since I'll watch movies in the theater, and only distribute kids' movies elsewhere (and do) in the house, it hasn't been worth the time/expense for me to do it.
15. Theater Style:
a. I’m an Arts & Crafts wood style, all the furniture we have is quarter sawn red oak. With that said, your brown décor is outstanding. I agree with you about the “I’ve got too much money and no taste” décor. KISS is always the best décor over time, it ages as we do!!
b. I wish to use the same quarter sawn red oak in the theater as in the furniture, I like the fabric walls. Clean, simple!!
Glad you like it - I like the Craftsman style as well - there are some examples IIRC in the "show me your completed theater" thread of theaters in that style. A blend of deco / craftsman could be cool, too!
16. Electrical Rough-in:
a. MY sister graduated from UH, worked and lived in Houston. Hot is not understood until you shower in the house and then again as you walk to your car to go to work at 0600.
b. If the risers were not prebuilt, would you have thought about a subwoofer under the floor of the riser?? Also lighting in the sets of the riser?
Nope - you don't want the sub in the floor. Lighting under the seats or in the cupholders - I am not a fan. If they were subtle, dim, and white, maybe... A bunch of blue LEDs doesn't match the style of the room (I'll leave it at that...
d. What made you decide on a powered up/down projector vs. a stationary??
The room is dedicated, and I was going to expose the speakers, so having the projector visible wasn't an issue for me. If it was, concealing it into the soffit would have been my choice. Motorized mounts aren't usually used in dedicated theaters - since you can generally build the theater to house the projector correctly. Non-dedicated spaces with retractable screens is another story, completely...
e. Did you run separate circuits for the projector, subs and rack to the main board?? Is this the issue with the UPS? All should be plugged in to a UPS for electrical integrity??
The rack, speakers and projector are all on one circuit. I could install a UPS, but haven't. Our power is very reliable, and if a storm knocks the power out during a movie - I'll just not turn the projector back on, which is the only real issue - striking a hot lamp again.
f. I missed your explanation of outlets?? I see that they are mounted horizontal vs. vertical, because the thickness off the double drywall and baseboard, you used 2 x 4 to move the boxes out?? This made them flush with your baseboard, is that correct??
The 2x4 was to provide height (spacer) to get the boxes off the floor, and centered into the eventual baseboard. The depth (DD + baseboard) required the use of outlet box extenders.
17. Wiring for lighting & Planning for the Grafik Eye
a. Zone lighting, your brain is Grafik Eye. What made you choose this??
b. Does the Crestron system control the lights the same way your Grafik Eye does??
It's a great system for a theater. Crestron can control just about anything that has an interface - I believe they have a specific module to interface with the GrafikEye, too. But there are RS232 / IP / IR interfaces possible...
18. Low-Voltage Wiring
a. From your rack you had conduit run, size and where??
b. Why Cat5e vs Cat6??
c. Belden Precision 1694A RG6, this is speaker wire or coax cable?
d. Cat5e is used for speaker wire vice 16/2 or 16/4
I ran conduit from the rack to 1) the attic, 2) the projector and 3) to the front wall. It's all 1.5-2" Carlon Resigard (I'll have to look up which one)
My house is all Cat5e, so I just kept with it to be consistent, and knowing that cat6 is probably overkill for the next decade... But the wire cost is minimal now, so running cat6 today is probably the better answer. And no, speaker wire is the one AV thing that requires a different cable type. For a theater run 12-14AWG wire. 16/2 or 16/4 is common for whole house audio due to cost of running thicker cables for lots of runs. If you're planning to run AVRs remotely, you should spend the extra bucks for 12AWG on those runs, as the distance can impact the performance otherwise.
The Belden wire is for line-level subwoofer (.1) channels from the AVR / processor. That wire is specially made for these purposes, but RG59 generally is better than RG6 for subwoofer applications. It's the shield / insulator construction that's the difference we care about.
You made it an awful long way through the thread before asking the first question - glad you didn't save them ALL for the end!