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Sharp XV-Z30000 3D DLP - Page 7

post #181 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by Willie View Post

The difference is not dramatic I am splitting hairs. The 3D on the Sharp had better color and deeper blacks and was a bit easier on my eyes. I am sure with tweaking I can get the BenQ to approach it. Someone else may like the BenQ more. It is pretty close which was the point of saving $1,100. In the end I can add the money to my JTR fund.

Willie

how about 2D quality? is benq w1070 can match sharp ?
post #182 of 1581
In 2D the Sharp was better than the W1070. No rainbows, better focus, uniform picture edge to edge. Very nice; just not as nice (IMO) as my JVC with e-shift.
post #183 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by Willie View Post

Couldn't resist; ordered the light meter. Amazon Prime is your friend. I will measure on Wednesday.

Willie

Did you get a chance to measure the 30K before you returned it?
post #184 of 1581
Can an owner or anyone who can test verify the following:

Does the 2.35:1 vertical stretch work in 3D mode? The manual does not state this as a limitation, but it seems many anamorphic stretch modes are turned off for 3D playback. For example the Panasonic AE8000 despite all its many video processing modes for 3D disables the vertical stretch setting.

Thanks!
post #185 of 1581
Not sure if it was asked before....does the Sharp allow users to update the firmware themselves?
post #186 of 1581
Wonder if anyone else who has the Sharp 30000 could confirm this.
The focus is fine when the projector is set to Movie 1 (high contrast). However, when I set the menu to Movie 2 (high brightness) or Dynamic (or any mode where the brightness is high) the focus grid seems to "de-focus" or "blooms" ( that is, what you would see on a CRT display if the brightness is turned up.)
Any ideas about this?
Thanks.
post #187 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by anilrao View Post

Wonder if anyone else who has the Sharp 30000 could confirm this.
The focus is fine when the projector is set to Movie 1 (high contrast). However, when I set the menu to Movie 2 (high brightness) or Dynamic (or any mode where the brightness is high) the focus grid seems to "de-focus" or "blooms" ( that is, what you would see on a CRT display if the brightness is turned up.)
Any ideas about this?
Thanks.

Turn the brightness down. That'll fix it.
post #188 of 1581
Ha! I did think of that but, I'm wondering if this typically happens when brightness is pushed. It seems more pronounced that just blooming; it appears to defocus. So is there a trade off between brightness and sharpness?
post #189 of 1581
For those interested that missed the groupon deal, check this out:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1461933/sharp-xv-z30000-for-1830-before-tax-6-days-left

I grabbed one, very excited to try it out!
post #190 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by gonthorn View Post

For those interested that missed the groupon deal, check this out:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1461933/sharp-xv-z30000-for-1830-before-tax-6-days-left

I grabbed one, very excited to try it out!

Great price but it can't be returned. If there is a problem you need to call Sharp. If I knew it's 3D was at least as bright as the the BenQ 7000 I would try it out.

Tom
post #191 of 1581
The review on http://www.hometheater.com/content/sharp-xv-z30000-3d-dlp-video-projector suggests that the built in "CMS" is useless but that a PC with a software program can be used to adjust the color to near (but not perfect) 709 color.

Has anyone had their 30k professionally adjusted - or done it themselves? Did you have to use a PC? I saw no mention of CMS in the advertising blurbs for the 30k.


I have an aging 12k - but the CMS on that is a breeze (with the right sensor - which i have). So while the price seems right - it sounds like they may have skimped a bit in color accuracy - which is a must for me.
post #192 of 1581
Has anyone tested the input lag on this projector? With the current woot deal I am looking into this projector more seriously.

Also, is there some sort of an adaptor to use Samsung bluetooth RF 3d glasses with this projector? I already have 6 pairs of glasses that came with my 2012 Samsung TV and would like to use them. Something to convert Sharp's IR to bluetooth RF?
post #193 of 1581
My z30000 arrived today from the Woot sale (gotta love Fedex saturday delivery!)

I wont have time to test it out until tomorrow but I hope I can answer a few questions asked in this thread.
post #194 of 1581
Hi all,
I'm thinking of trying the Sharp XV-Z3000 set up in our family room. I need motorized lens controls. We have cathedral ceilings with a pole drop ceiling mount. I'm having difficulty interpreting the vertical lens shift numbers. How far above the screen top can it be mounted? The throw is 16 feet to a 110 inch diagonal 16 x 9 screen. Do I have to have the projector lens below the top of the screen? If not, how much above the screen top can it be and still shift the image down to fill the screen?
Thanks:)
post #195 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by humbland View Post

Hi all,
I'm thinking of trying the Sharp XV-Z3000 set up in our family room. I need motorized lens controls. We have cathedral ceilings with a pole drop ceiling mount. I'm having difficulty interpreting the vertical lens shift numbers. How far above the screen top can it be mounted? The throw is 16 feet to a 110 inch diagonal 16 x 9 screen. Do I have to have the projector lens below the top of the screen? If not, how much above the screen top can it be and still shift the image down to fill the screen?
Thanks:)

Best I can tell from the manual, you have 50% +/- from the center of the screen (measuring from the center of the lens) so at full shift up or down, the center of the projectors lens can be either level with the top of the screen image or the bottom of the screen image.

I have been playing around with mine today and took some quick measurements while shooting on my wall (I do not have it mounted in my theater room yet). I leveled the projector the best I could using its feet (table mounted) and squared it up with a nearby wall. At 63 inches away from the wall, the lens center can be 2.5 inches above or below the picture.

Calculating that into an angle is just a bit over 2 degrees (2.2 lets say). So 16 feet back that drop is about 7.5 inches below the center of the lens. Not much shift above the image but any little bit helps! Ofcourse these projectors have some error / tolerence in the lens shift range so maybe another unit is closer to 0 degree offset as stated in the manual, or maybe they can all shift about 2 degrees more than documented.

To summarize: Worst case by the books the projector lens center cannot be higher than the top of the picture, my particular unit can do 7.5 inches higher if its 16 feet back.

Hope that helps
post #196 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by gonthorn View Post

Best I can tell from the manual, you have 50% +/- from the center of the screen (measuring from the center of the lens) so at full shift up or down, the center of the projectors lens can be either level with the top of the screen image or the bottom of the screen image.

@ humbland. In order to have the full range of full vertical lens shift the projector must be physically aimed very close to dead on center horizontally.

Willie
post #197 of 1581
This review guy sounds too anal retentive. Does the color look bad with the gamut set for high brightness - NO. It looks excellent flesh tones are great, subtle blush tones terrific. Some of the best looking video I've seen on a DLP. He's too rapped up on what his cheap cal equipment says. Just tune the grayscale and watch some good video and bright video which is needed for a 3D projector.
post #198 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by Willie View Post

@ humbland. In order to have the full range of full vertical lens shift the projector must be physically aimed very close to dead on center horizontally.

Willie

Gonthorn & Willie,
Thanks for the info. I have the current projector (Benq PE8720) mounted in the center horizontally. The Benq needed to be within about 5 inches of the top of the screen to shift the image down to fill the screen.
With the high cathedral ceilings, this took a long drop tube and careful adjustment to fit.
From what Gonthorn said it looks as if the center of the lens needs to be about 7 inches or less above the screen top, to be within the lens (down) shift range? is that correct?

On a related front, the Benq PE720 is on it's second bulb. It throws a razor sharp (DLP) 720p image (2d only). It has a great lens and powered lens controls. All in all, it's one of the best images I've seen. Our seating is from 14 feet, so the 1080p upgrade will not be that big a factor. Does anyone have an opinion on weather or not the Sharp XV-Z30000 will be a significant image upgrade (other than 3d). At the <$2k price it seems like a way to have 3d and kick the upgrade can down the road a few years...
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
E.
post #199 of 1581
Hi,
I posted this in the front projectors "deals" as well, but thought this might be a more appropriate place for it.

I have a question about the 3D IR link.
We have a Panasonic Plasma with RF glasses (Bluetooth) for 3D. Is there any cost effective way to use those glasses with the Sharp Projector?
If not, then the cathedral ceiling mount for the projector will make the IR transmission above and in back of the seating area. Will the IR signal reflect off of the screen and still work well with the enclosed IR glasses?
Can someone point to a link to get more of the IR glasses for the Sharp? Are there other glasses that will work as well or better?
Thanks
post #200 of 1581
Xpand 104 work well.
post #201 of 1581
Seeing how the sharp is IR based, the xpand 103's will work too.
post #202 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by humbland View Post

Hi,
I posted this in the front projectors "deals" as well, but thought this might be a more appropriate place for it.

I have a question about the 3D IR link.
We have a Panasonic Plasma with RF glasses (Bluetooth) for 3D. Is there any cost effective way to use those glasses with the Sharp Projector?
If not, then the cathedral ceiling mount for the projector will make the IR transmission above and in back of the seating area. Will the IR signal reflect off of the screen and still work well with the enclosed IR glasses?
Can someone point to a link to get more of the IR glasses for the Sharp? Are there other glasses that will work as well or better?
Thanks

I have an IR extender in the media room. That will probably be affected by the 3D IR signal. Can you still operate other components?
How about a device that converts the IR signal to a bluetooth so that we can use the Panasonic glasses?
If that's not possible, can someone tell me if I mount the IR emitter up by the projector, will the IR signal reflect off the screen and work well?
Thanks
post #203 of 1581
You're going to notice sync losses with the glasses temporarily. Anytime you use an IR device within range of your glasses it will usually cause a delay on sync.

If I were you I'd see if your other devices can be controlled over IP. The drop outs aren't as annoying as you'd think. Just make sure you have the volume set properly before you start up the movie as that's probably one of the most common things you're going to change. Even if you do have to change it the sync is only lost for a few seconds. You might even be sneaky enough to aim the remote so it doesn't even interfere with the glasses. biggrin.gif
Edited by Seegs108 - 3/12/13 at 11:31am
post #204 of 1581
Are there anymore new user reviews out there?
I wonder why Projector Central never followed up with a full review...
Several people have commented that the picture is sharp, but not bleeding edge sharp. Has anyone tried using a Darbee with it?
Thanks,
post #205 of 1581
If it is based off the Z17000 which I think it is, the image is bleeding sharp. I can see every facial mark mole zit in all the images. Color is excellent, this projector reminds me of the Optoma HD8600's image which is the best DLP I've seen. I'll bet the ansi contrast is up over 700.1 like the HD8600.

Just like this screenshot of the HD8600
http://www.videodementia.com/sales/hd8600joker.jpg
post #206 of 1581
The hd87, some Runcos, some Marantz, and some Planars are better than the Optoma hd8600. No idea about the Sharp though.
Edited by coderguy - 3/15/13 at 11:16pm
post #207 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

The hd87, some Runcos, some Marantz, and some Planars are better than the Optoma hd8600. No idea about the Sharp though.

I don't agree, Some are probably equal at best. Should also throw in BenQ and Viewsonic but a new playing field now a projector that not only has to do 2D great, but also handle 3D great and I think DLP's have that covered. DLP is back. smile.gif
Edited by guitarman - 3/16/13 at 12:32am
post #208 of 1581
The hd87 has a better IRIS since it is basically a better version of an hd8600, how can it be equal?
The IRIS's are also better on the Runco, ask people that compared them, etc...

So we agree to disagree on fallible information.
Edited by coderguy - 3/16/13 at 12:41am
post #209 of 1581
Funny thing is the Z17000 has a great dynamic black also. I suspect the z30000 will be the same. I never turn the thing off, blacks really do look great. Finally all that's left is the Sony's, the JVC's and last all the DLPs.

The HD8600 had an upgrade firmare for the Iris. I've been giving to our european freinds for a long time now. Basically it makes pumping less noticable. Yes they couldn't get the 24fps fixed correct without a hardware change, in England they call it the HD87.
post #210 of 1581
Even after the update, the Runco IRIS is still better.
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