or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP › Sharp XV-Z30000 3D DLP
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Sharp XV-Z30000 3D DLP - Page 27

post #781 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by humbland View Post

Interesting. You use "Stage" mode for 2D and 3D? Do you have IRIS 1 on high contrast for 2D and high brightness for 3D? Have you tried the Movie modes for 2D?
Thanks

The main difference between the movie and stage modes is the iris, brightness boost setting, etc. Also some minor gamma changes as well. I leave it on stage / high brightness since I'm a brightness fanatic.

I think changing it to 'high contrast' flattens the PQ a bit. (doing this on the HC8000 killed the PQ for me, I would never have run that projector in 'high contrast' mode). It's basically clamping the iris into a fix position, similar to how the manual iris on the JVC works. The JVC can get away with clamping the iris way down and still maintain a vibrant image due to the high native contrast.
post #782 of 1581
Hey Zombie, how did the 3D conversion work on the HC8000 is it just a marketing gimmick or is it a worthwhile feature?
post #783 of 1581
Seeing that we are getting more reports from owners I wanted to pop into the thread to give my point of view. The theater room in my new home is finally completely installed after waiting almost two months for the screen to get here. Before I talk about my impressions, here are the details on my setup:

  • My screen is a 14' wide custom aspect ratio screen designed to optimize the size of both 16x9 and 2.35:1 content for my room. For wide films the image is 14' wide (168" diagonal) and for 16x9 films it is 12' wide (165" diagonal). I didn't want to go with CIH in my room because it would have meant that 16x9 content would have been limited to 10' wide. The screen basically fills the entire front wall of my theater floor to ceiling, only leaving 6" at the top for my center speaker, or I would have gone bigger (I was thinking about doing a 16' screen for a while).
  • For the fabric I went with the Da-Lite High Contrast High Power. This is a fabric that has intrigued me over the years. I remember long ago when Darinp talked about the perfect screen which would be a high gain screen with a dark base. Seeing that it is now available I wanted to go for it.
  • The primary seating is located ~11' back, which is .8 screen widths for wide content and .9 screen widths for 16x9 content. It is close, I know, but that is how I like it. I have a second row around 16' away for those that prefer being further back.
  • The projector is mounted inside the screen, about 2' from the top (so not the position with the most gain, but still getting quite a bit).
  • In my previous theater had an 8' wide 16x9 High Power Model B, so that is what I can primarily compare it against.
  • The new screen just went up a few days ago, so I don't have a lot of viewing experience with it yet or tried out a lot of the modes.
  • Almost all of my viewing (2D and 3D) has been done in Movie 1 (iris 1 in High Contrast mode and iris 2 in auto mode) but with the economy mode turned on (the dimmer bulb). This is the darkest possible mode for the projector. For a portion of one 3D movie I turned the first iris into High Brightness mode, but turned it back off after a while.

I think my perspective might be interesting since the configuration of my theater goes against the grain in many ways. The screen size is bigger and the seating is closer than what is normally recommended. Plus I run the projector in the dimmest mode even on such a big screen. To each his own, of course, but I wanted to speak up in case there are others like me out there with similar viewing preferences.

As I have said before, I absolutely love this projector. My model has almost perfect focus uniformity from corner to corner and is tack sharp. With that said, I wanted to touch on points that I've seen people asking about.

  • Regarding RBE, normally I am sensitive to it but it is a non-issue on this PJ. The only time I have seen it is in 3D films, but very, very rarely. I would say that if you are worried about this, don't be for this particular model.
  • For me the brightness level on this screen is great. I should say that I haven't tried 3D films in wide mode yet, but for all of my other viewings I've been enamored with the picture. In 2D or 3D mode I think this has enough brightness to spare, if you have a high-gain screen. Of course, this is with the caveat that I am not into a super bright image, your mileage may vary.
  • As others have said, the 3D effect is spectacular. For me the film with the best implementation I've seen yet has been Madagascar 3. Watching this in 3D at .9 screen widths was completely immersive. By the end of the movie my cheeks were sore from smiling the whole way through (true story).
  • On this size screen I think the on/off contrast is good enough. The black level is much lower than in the cinema, and the auto-iris is completely undetectable (except for some compression in the whites for dark scenes). For my 2D viewing it is good enough that I'm not thinking about it when watching films. For fade to black scenes the screen looks pitch black for a few seconds before my eyes adjust. To me this is enough given all the other great points for the projector.

So far I'm also really liking the High Contrast High Power fabric. Compared to my old theater, this screen throws a lot less light back onto the walls and ceilings, but still retains a huge amount of gain. I'm thinking this means the ANSI contrast is better but I have no way of measuring it. I'm also not seeing any artifacts in the screen (vertical lines) that were reported for models made late last year or earlier this year. Altogether I'm loving my new theater room as it blows away my previous setup. And the Sharp 30K is the star of the show.
post #784 of 1581
been following this thread for a while... my batcave is 16' wide 22' deep... presently using a infocus 7210.7yrs old, with 800hrs on it...3D does not matter to us, as it is rarely used for films... 95% of the time we watch live sports...and the occasional ...dancing with the stars...one hiccup is we are using component cable , as 7-8yrs ago u could not get a 50ft hdmi cable which would work..

the question will the sharp work in my setup?
post #785 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by airscapes View Post

Hey Zombie, how did the 3D conversion work on the HC8000 is it just a marketing gimmick or is it a worthwhile feature?

I thought it was a gimmick, I haven't seen 1 yet that I thought was convincing. Post conversions are getting much better though, I thought they did a great job with Titantic and JP3D. Art of Flight 3D is excellent too.
post #786 of 1581
So the other two pair of 3D glasses I was suppose to get with the groupon deal showed up today. They sent me these:

http://www.amazon.com/Sharp-AN3DG30-Active-3D-Glasses/dp/B009LDVUS8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367967527&sr=8-1&keywords=sharp+an-3dg30

Not the same ones as I got with the projector. These require to be plugged into a USB source for charging. They are specifically for Sharp TV's not the projector. Kinda ticks me off really. The other glasses have a 75 hour battery life and don't require a USB source, instead, battery replacement.
post #787 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad711 View Post

So the other two pair of 3D glasses I was suppose to get with the groupon deal showed up today. They sent me these:

http://www.amazon.com/Sharp-AN3DG30-Active-3D-Glasses/dp/B009LDVUS8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367967527&sr=8-1&keywords=sharp+an-3dg30

Not the same ones as I got with the projector. These require to be plugged into a USB source for charging. They are specifically for Sharp TV's not the projector. Kinda ticks me off really. The other glasses have a 75 hour battery life and don't require a USB source, instead, battery replacement.

I actually prefer these glasses. These are the ones I've ordered to add to the ones included with the PJ. They are easier to turn on and off and being rechargeable is a plus, at least to me. One less thing to buy batteries for.

I don't believe any of the glasses are specific to this PJ. The models that ship with the PJ are the same ones that shipped with their older 3D TV sets from a few years back. Sharp apparently doesn't make them anymore, so that is why you got some newer models.
post #788 of 1581
Yeah I was just looking around and noticed the ones that came with the PJ are not around any more. I will give them a shot. I have some of the G20's coming too and plan on using those mainly.
post #789 of 1581
Hello everyone, long time lurker here. I just got the projector installed and so far it is fantastic. I just wanted to ask current owners about fan noise, the fan seems to make more of a buzzing sound instead of a whooshing sound that you would normally associate with fan noise. The sound is drowned out for except for very quiet parts of whatever I am watching. I am a first time front projector owner so I wanted to try to find out if that kind of fan noise is normal for this projector or not. Thanks.
post #790 of 1581
If someone would record the fan noise (I know it is not really going to be an accurate representation of how it sounds in real life) on eco and hight and post it? it would let kidare know if his is unusually or normal. I would not expect to hear a fan on (assuming eco mode) unless it was dead silent and within a couple of feet of my head.. This is an area that would really bother me and with this at #1 on my list, I really do want to know what it sounds like compared the my old HC3000
post #791 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by kidare View Post

Hello everyone, long time lurker here. I just got the projector installed and so far it is fantastic. I just wanted to ask current owners about fan noise, the fan seems to make more of a buzzing sound instead of a whooshing sound that you would normally associate with fan noise. The sound is drowned out for except for very quiet parts of whatever I am watching. I am a first time front projector owner so I wanted to try to find out if that kind of fan noise is normal for this projector or not. Thanks.

Welcome aboard Kidare,
The fan noise is loud and somewhat irregular at start up. This is specifically addressed in the manual somewhere as being "normal".
Other than that, it seems like the fan noise is characteristic of other PJs in my limited experience.
Except in 3D, we run it in Movie #1 "eco quiet" mode. That cuts the fan noise to a whisper.
Others may chime in with their own opinions. Zombie has seen them all (and presumably heard them too). Perhaps he'll address the question.
Enjoy your new toy.

smile.gif
post #792 of 1581
I have the 30k ~ 2 feet from my seated position, I didn't notice any obvious fan noise. Overall I thought it was rather well behaved compared to some of the other models in high lamp.
post #793 of 1581
I want to try the Sharp next, but all these blowout specials on the w7000 are ruining my chances to sell it for any decent price. The w7000 has really really dropped in price.
I think from now on I'm going to mostly buy projectors between April and July, the prices are better.
post #794 of 1581
I might keep the W7000, not sure yet. I was using it today @ work since we don't have any 1080P projectors (well, we have 1 BQ SP890, but it's always being used).

I put in on a table and it was crystal clear for a 1080P desktop, this one has very good focus all around. All I needed was the mediator + the 3D glasses for an after hours HT party @ work. People were commenting 'how big' it is since we have these tiny VGA DLP's all over the place. They obviously haven't seen a JVC.

I have some interesting info about the Sharp lamps I'll post soon.

lamps.jpg
post #795 of 1581
Did you ever carefully analyze the Rev 2 VS. Rev 3 lamp to see if the internal MFR style appear to be any different by eye (besides the flap). I couldn't since my Rev 2 lamp was leaking mercury shards, I couldn't get too close to it and had to get it into a plastic bag ASAP,

I wonder if the Rev 2 and Rev 3 lamp are the same lamp MFR and same design except the Flap. I mean really I have concerns if a FLAP MOD even fixes any of this, but I don't know much about lamps, I mean I'm not a lamp engineer smile.gif
post #796 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

Did you ever carefully analyze the Rev 2 VS. Rev 3 lamp to see if the internal MFR style appear to be any different by eye (besides the flap). I couldn't since my Rev 2 lamp was leaking mercury shards, I couldn't get too close to it and had to get it into a plastic bag ASAP,

I wonder if the Rev 2 and Rev 3 lamp are the same lamp MFR and same design except the Flap. I mean really I have concerns if a FLAP MOD even fixes any of this, but I don't know much about lamps, I mean I'm not a lamp engineer smile.gif

I looked very close with a set of jewelers glasses I use for soldering. I can't prove it, but the lamps look identical from a visual perspective.

considering the new 46/4810 lamps have a larger port opening for air intake and also an obviously larger squirrel cage fan feeding the lamp (you can clearly hear it's louder in an A/B w/ the 55), I think it's plausible that the issues were related to heat build up. The flapper is possibly helping in some way with the air flow.

My Rev 2 only has 250 hours and have run the 55 w/ high altitude since new. It's been behaving much better than the 40 and 50 lamp did with these hours. The HA on the 55 is still a bit quieter than the new models running in normal mode. 2D PQ @ -11 on the iris is still 'out of this world' excellent on the big HP.

I think the RS 55 / Sharp 30k is a great 2D/3D combo for now. I am using the Sharp more for 2D HDTV than I did with the BQ due to less RBE.
post #797 of 1581
Thanks for the replies to my fan question. Judging by what you guys have told me I have a bad fan.
post #798 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by paris401 View Post

been following this thread for a while... my batcave is 16' wide 22' deep... presently using a infocus 7210.7yrs old, with 800hrs on it...3D does not matter to us, as it is rarely used for films... 95% of the time we watch live sports...and the occasional ...dancing with the stars...one hiccup is we are using component cable , as 7-8yrs ago u could not get a 50ft hdmi cable which would work..

the question will the sharp work in my setup?

I think for TV viewing a DLP projector will suit you best. Do you watch TV with the lights completely out? If not, there are probably brighter projectors that would work better. I haven't tested the analog inputs on the projector, so I don't know how much bandwidth they have and if they do a good job with a 1080p signal. Other than that the Sharp 30K has wide placement flexibility, so I'm sure it would work in your room.

Personally I think the Sharp does a great job with motion, so for TV and video games I have been loving it. Regarding video games someone posted that it has high lag, however I don't know if that was measured with all the "enhancements" turned off, like color detail, the DI, and so on.
post #799 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

I looked very close with a set of jewelers glasses I use for soldering. I can't prove it, but the lamps look identical from a visual perspective.

considering the new 46/4810 lamps have a larger port opening for air intake and also an obviously larger squirrel cage fan feeding the lamp (you can clearly hear it's louder in an A/B w/ the 55), I think it's plausible that the issues were related to heat build up. The flapper is possibly helping in some way with the air flow.

My Rev 2 only has 250 hours and have run the 55 w/ high altitude since new. It's been behaving much better than the 40 and 50 lamp did with these hours. The HA on the 55 is still a bit quieter than the new models running in normal mode. 2D PQ @ -11 on the iris is still 'out of this world' excellent on the big HP.

I think the RS 55 / Sharp 30k is a great 2D/3D combo for now. I am using the Sharp more for 2D HDTV than I did with the BQ due to less RBE.

Zombie, you may have mentioned this before, but why don't you use the RS 55 for HD sports?
FWIW, I agree with your take on the Z30K for HD sports. The Masters was stunning. But I would think the JVC should look great too...
post #800 of 1581
I'll chime in just for the heck of it, my experience is that for TV signals or cable, LCOS projectors generally do not process the signal as punchy looking as a DLP. Even though a DLP might show as much noise as an LCOS in a cable signal, the DLP maintains a more 3D look on TV usually. This can change sometimes depending on what it is, but the DLP is more consistent looking sometimes and easier to watch TV as the quality of the source changes. I think LCOS gives a DLP a run for the money in Blurays though, sometimes even in bright scenes (depending which DLP).

That said, the differences are not like HUGE if you are not an OCD videophile like most of us are in here.

DLP > LCOS on Cable (usually, unless it's like Game of Thrones or something SCI FI).
post #801 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by kidare View Post

Thanks for the replies to my fan question. Judging by what you guys have told me I have a bad fan.

You may be correct.
Please post back on your experience with Sharp, if you decide to test your 3 year warranty.
I'm hoping that my "ghost" turn on problem resolves itself, but if not, then I am interested to see how Sharp steps up...
Good luck.
post #802 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post

I'll chime in just for the heck of it, my experience is that for TV signals or cable, LCOS projectors generally do not process the signal as punchy looking as a DLP. Even though a DLP might show as much noise as an LCOS in a cable signal, the DLP maintains a more 3D look on TV usually. This can change sometimes depending on what it is, but the DLP is more consistent looking sometimes and easier to watch TV as the quality of the source changes. I think LCOS gives a DLP a run for the money in Blurays though, sometimes even in bright scenes (depending which DLP).

That said, the differences are not like HUGE if you are not an OCD videophile like most of us are in here.

DLP > LCOS on Cable (usually, unless it's like Game of Thrones or something SCI FI).

My $.02.
It could be the signal quality. We tried Comcast for awhile, but went back to Directv. The live satellite feed for HD sports is clear and sharp. The DLP on the HP screen is like having "the best seat in the house".
Coder, from your flow chart it seems that DLP is preferred for most sources, except dark films (like SCI FI). Do you guys watch enough dark movies to justify the benefits of the JVC blacks over the DLP "pop" in most other instances?

I can see how your two projector solution is the best of both worlds, but for us ceiling mount people, it's really not practical...
post #803 of 1581
Yah it's partly my cable, I'm on Comcast. Though even on some Blurays that aren't as clean, a DLP will still look better sometimes (to name one, the movie Into the Wild always looks better on a DLP, IMO). Part of the reason is the way they master it or how it was filmed. When I first got the cable installed, the signal was very poor, but it got better over time. Still the compression algorithms used are not perfect with my signal anyhow. I had much better cable in the past.

I was a DLP only fan for years due to LCOS not being as sharp, but LCOS has come a long ways since then. Though LCOS does not really BEAT DLP in bright scenes usually, it can match it and in some content E-Shift is > most DLP's (sometimes), but mainly LCOS is pretty close in bright scenes but still handily beats DLP for the film-like look and for dark scenes. So the answer is, even when movies aren't completely dark, the LCOS still has some advantage.

The main reason though was there weren't really many (any) DLP projectors with the contrast of the Sharp and a good IRIS in the same price range as the LCOS projectors we purchased. Also, the Sharp doesn't have perfect color, but neither does my JVC RS-45 (though the color is good on a new lamp). Some of it comes down to personal preference to be honest, some people just prefer the DLP look (and I get it). I don't really prefer either all the time, depends on my mood I guess. DLP is a little more intense sometimes, whereas LCOS can be a little more relaxing (if that even makes sense).
post #804 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by humbland View Post

Zombie, you may have mentioned this before, but why don't you use the RS 55 for HD sports?
FWIW, I agree with your take on the Z30K for HD sports. The Masters was stunning. But I would think the JVC should look great too...

I don't get a chance to watch much TV, that's why all these projectors have such low hours, I mainly watch movies. I recently watched the Grammy's on the RS55 with my newly blacked out room and it felt like being there. I have Verizon FIOS which looks excellent even on the 142".

I'm watching the 80's series that was just broadcast on Nat Geo on the Sharp, it looks very good.

http://explorethe80s.com/
post #805 of 1581
Sharp 30K lag times - you guys better appreciate this, it's a pain lugging out the old CRT monitor.

The pool table makes an excellent host for 20TB file servers, projectors, HTPC's, etc.

sharp30k-lag2.jpg

A series of 50, 70 and 80 MS measurements in 'game' mode. Basically the same as the other models in the shoot-out thread. Only Sony HW50 stands out here @ 30ms.

sharp30k-lag.jpg

sharp30k-lag1.jpg
post #806 of 1581
Abnormally high for a DLP, must be some added processing going on (does it offer a Game mode by chance?).

As an avid gamer that is another factor to keep me away from the Sharp.

Thanks Jason!

Jason
post #807 of 1581
it's about the same as the W7000. This is in game mode, but that doesn't seem to make a difference vs. other modes.

For my setup, the major strength of this projector is very good contrast in 3D with flawless crosstalk / flicker performance. Being able to use the HP is a big bonus.

It's interesting that the Sharp doesn't offer DLP link as an option. Not that I am complaining, these Sharp G20 IR glasses are my favorite of the lot so far.

A while back I did an experiment with the Acer 5360 using the Nvidia IR glasses vs. DLP link glasses. Looking at the examples, it's not hard to imagine the white or red flash affecting the overall contrast in 3D since it's raising the black floor. The glasses can block the color but the overall black floor still appears elevated vs. the IR setup.

DLP Link / White Flash

nvidia-dlp-5.jpg

IR

nvidia-dlp-1.jpg

DLP Link / White Flash

nvidia-dlp-4.jpg

IR

nvidia-dlp.jpg
post #808 of 1581
Indeed, I noticed the same thing when I had the Optoma GT750 and compared the different (glasses) modes.

If I used 3D more often I would likely bite on the Sharp based upon your feedback but since the HC5 has entered the mix around the same price point it's now a weighing of the pros/cons between the two.

Jason
post #809 of 1581
Can anyone currently find this model below $2k?

I see it still mentioned here and there it can be had at that price point but lowest I could find was about $2.2-.3k.

I thought that price was only w/ the groupon or moot deals.
post #810 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by biliam1982 View Post

Can anyone currently find this model below $2k?

I see it still mentioned here and there it can be had at that price point but lowest I could find was about $2.2-.3k.

I thought that price was only w/ the groupon or moot deals.

I have seen it several times on Ebay for $1999 Buy it now. Sometimes you wonder if that comes with a full warranty. Best bet will be another Woot type deal in a few weeks.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Digital Hi-End Projectors - $3,000+ USD MSRP › Sharp XV-Z30000 3D DLP