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Sharp XV-Z30000 3D DLP - Page 32

post #931 of 1581
I justified it this way and of course I may or may not change my mind when it is delivered.. But, there are folks out there that paid well over $3000 for what you can buy right now for $1800.. Sure you can spend $5K and get something a little better but 3K in my pocket seems like a good compromise. People are over in the <3K forum debating projectors from $1000 -$2000.. they don't realize then can get something head and shoulders better in the same price range.. cause it was $4999! Is it better than the HC5.. no idea, but is the HC5 $1800? I honestly don't know since I would never consider a 3 chip crystal based anything do to motion and convergence limitations, and really don't give a rats behind about 3D. Hope I still agree with my logic after I get it!
post #932 of 1581
these are both very different projectors, i'll do a mini-shootout between the 2 since one of the members was planning on sending theirs in for a review / calibration.

I expect less calibrated 2D lumen output from the HC5, 30k is ~950 @ D65. Contrast and color will be an advantage on the HC5. 30K should put a whoopin' on 3D as it does with every other non-DLP projector in the shootout thread. DLP cannot be beat for 3D at this time.

My spare lamp / housing arrived today from AVS. I now have 4 lamps for this projector and plan on using the heck out of it. the RS55 will be used mainly for my critical 2D blurays. I have the 'Last Stand' and some of the new 'Mastered in 4k' BD's ready to check out this weekend.
post #933 of 1581
I thought the Hobbit was a good one. I see they have the new Star Trek in real 3D advertised. You should get some good use out of your sharp.
post #934 of 1581
For those looking for the factory replacement lamp / housing, AVS can get them, give Mike or Craig a call. This is a unique lamp to this specific model, I have no idea how long these will be available. This one is going on the shelf for now.

sharp-lamp8.jpg


sharp-lamp5.jpg

The spare lamp replacement is working well so far. I'll burn up some hours on it this weekend.
post #935 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by Willie View Post

FWIW for 3D pretty sure LCOS won't compete. Nobody is contending the 30K will be a better PJ for 2D, but you seem to like to dis it in spite of that. What is the point of you coming into this thread? To repeatedly criticize the 30K? Get over it.

You have to give Elix a pass. He actually owned the Z30K and was unhappy with the color adjustment.

I just sold my HD300 and I am ordering the Sharp. I'll either keep the HC5 or the Sharp and sell the other; or I'll keep both given the great prices. The HC5 is likely a top performer in 2D movie watching and the lamps are expensive. The Sharp is most likely the clear winner in 3D and with the lamp replacement strategy Zombie employed, would make a great Sports, TV and 3D unit. I think these two are pretty competitive with each other, but have different advantages.
post #936 of 1581
I bought the Z3K a couple of days ago and am now worrying that I might have made a mistake. Will it be bright enough?

My room is 100% light controlled. My throw distance is approximately 18', ceiling mounted (6.5' low ceilings) above the sitting area. I could place it on a shelf on the back wall (20') and move the seating area up closer, but that only increases the throw. The long throw has me worried.

I can fit a 110" 16:9 screen (looking at the Jamestown 1.2), I could squeeze a 120" on the wall too. Room currently has white ceilings but I can paint it dark. Walls will be dark, carpet dark. I plan to view mainly 2D, some 3D, Xbox, HDTV, etc. All of it .... on a tight budget.

I'm not moving into this house until July 1st, so I have some time. I bought the PJ before the deal was gone, but I'm now wondering if I would have been better off with the BenQ W7000 or something else, sub-$2K.

Any recommendations on screens or whether or not I'd be better off with something else?
post #937 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by analogBalrog View Post

I bought the Z3K a couple of days ago and am now worrying that I might have made a mistake. Will it be bright enough?

My room is 100% light controlled. My throw distance is approximately 18', ceiling mounted (6.5' low ceilings) above the sitting area. I could place it on a shelf on the back wall (20') and move the seating area up closer, but that only increases the throw. The long throw has me worried.

I can fit a 110" 16:9 screen (looking at the Jamestown 1.2), I could squeeze a 120" on the wall too. Room currently has white ceilings but I can paint it dark. Walls will be dark, carpet dark. I plan to view mainly 2D, some 3D, Xbox, HDTV, etc. All of it .... on a tight budget.

I'm not moving into this house until July 1st, so I have some time. I bought the PJ before the deal was gone, but I'm now wondering if I would have been better off with the BenQ W7000 or something else, sub-$2K.

Any recommendations on screens or whether or not I'd be better off with something else?

If you have not purchased a screen and can shelf mount so it is just over your heads when seated look into a Dalite HP 2.4. This is a retro reflective screen (sends light back to the projector and your eyes if the projector is shooting just over your head) You will have plenty of light. There are lots of threads on the HP screen in the screen forum, you may want to look into it. I will be using it on the older 2.8 Gain HP and it will probably be way to bright. There are Caveats with the HP, the most important is the placement of the projector near your eye line of site and the fact that the viewing cone is narrow.. viewing outside the screen width would be a gain of 1 with the newer 2.4 screen so not really bad at all. A properly set up HP is described as a 120" plasma so you have to like it bright.. Also if you a black level nut, you will find that the black level will also be amplified by the gain.. just physics and nothing you can do about it. Any an all light will be amplified including minimum light level.
post #938 of 1581
+1 on the 2.4 HP if you can shelf mount. If you get an HP, make it as big as you can. I went from a 92" -> 120" -> 142" and would go bigger if I had the room.

The 30K @ 950 D65 lumens is plenty bright for a 120" 2.4 HP.. maybe too bright to run in high lamp in the beginning. Great for ambient light viewing though!
post #939 of 1581
Airscapes & Zombie,

Thanks for pointing me in the direction of the 2.4 HP screen. I can't wait to check it out as it sounds like it would work. I watched this video (http://youtu.be/VabVeI5HfSA) and while I realize it is only a Youtube video, I think it helped me understand what you guys are talking about.

Two quick questions and then it's off to the screen forums I go...

1. Airscapes, you used the phrase "near your eye line of site". The PJ would be shelf-mounted behind the seating area and the center of the PJ lens would be at 46" high. The couch I'm sitting on is 38" high so my eye-line is probably at 40" high or so. Does that satisfy the requirements? And if so, will the projected image get passed my head to project to lower portion of the Dalite screen 20' away? (maybe that's too much to determine now!)

2. Airscapes, you mentioned a "narrow viewing cone". I assume I'll find some info on this in the screen forum, but I'm curious if you know whether people sitting 4.5 feet away from center, on the same couch, would suffer image deterioration?

Thanks guys for your feedback.
post #940 of 1581
if your projector lens is within 12" of your eyes above or below you will get full gain.. as you move away it decrees to no gain of 1 about 24" or so. moving side to side is not so tight.. if you are seated withing the width of the screen you are still going to get the gain. NO the people on the end of the couch will not notice anything. Your 46" off the floor will be fine There is a gain calculator in the one of the HP posts that lets you plug in measurements and predicts the gain you will get. I sometimes lay on the couch which is outside the screen width and it still looks fine even with no gain.. and I have the older version that is about .8 off axis the 2.4 is 1.0 off axis same as any other utility gain screen
Edited by airscapes - 5/17/13 at 12:21pm
post #941 of 1581
DANG! They just updated the UPS tracking data, my Z is shipping from Horsham PA, 20 miles from my house and they just picked it up.. gota wait till Monday! NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO So close yet so far!mad.gif
post #942 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by analogBalrog View Post

I bought the Z3K a couple of days ago and am now worrying that I might have made a mistake. Will it be bright enough?

The short answer is absolutely yes (IMO). But definitely look into the advice of others regarding the HP screen. You might also want to consider the High Contrast High Power. I've had both fabrics and I'm loving the ability of the HC HP to reject ambient light. In my theater room when I play video games I'm projecting onto a 165" 16x9 screen. Typically I do this with the overhead lights on in the rear row, and that is with the PJ projecting in the dimmest mode. In my last room with a 110" 16x9 screen this wasn't possible on the 2.8 High Power screen (the image was too washed out with the lights on). But my old projector was much, much dimmer than the 30K.

For the screen sizes you are looking at the 30K will be plenty bright.
post #943 of 1581
Thanks for the great info. Super helpful. smile.gif
post #944 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by RenStimpy View Post

The short answer is absolutely yes (IMO). But definitely look into the advice of others regarding the HP screen. You might also want to consider the High Contrast High Power. I've had both fabrics and I'm loving the ability of the HC HP to reject ambient light. In my theater room when I play video games I'm projecting onto a 165" 16x9 screen. Typically I do this with the overhead lights on in the rear row, and that is with the PJ projecting in the dimmest mode. In my last room with a 110" 16x9 screen this wasn't possible on the 2.8 High Power screen (the image was too washed out with the lights on). But my old projector was much, much dimmer than the 30K.

For the screen sizes you are looking at the 30K will be plenty bright.

Good advice RenStimpy. That's one of my favorite shows by the way.

I'll take a look at the HC HP as my wife does like to have some ambient light on when she's watching her HDTV shows. The kids are also messy beasts, so having a little light on will help avoid spills during 3D Pizza parties. rolleyes.gif

With my limited budget (buying a house ain't cheap), I have roughly $1200 for screen and subwoofer. If I get one of these spendy screens, I'll have to say goodbye to my SVS PB12-NSD dreams for now and use my old Acculine 10" A-Sub. I was hoping to get the 1.2 Jamestown 120" screen AND a SVS sub, but at a 18-20 foot throw, it's sounding like I might not get a bright, punchy picture without one of these nicer screens.

Your "short answer" suggest that the Sharp Z30K could handle that throw with respectable brightness. Zombie & Airscapes didn't outright say it wouldn't work, but suggested the nicer screens. Ugh!

Lot's to consider!
post #945 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by airscapes View Post

DANG! They just updated the UPS tracking data, my Z is shipping from Horsham PA, 20 miles from my house and they just picked it up.. gota wait till Monday! NOOOOOOOOOOOOOO So close yet so far!mad.gif

I work 20 minutes from Horsham, let's go there and beg them to release your projector... biggrin.gif
post #946 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by analogBalrog View Post


Your "short answer" suggest that the Sharp Z30K could handle that throw with respectable brightness. Zombie & Airscapes didn't outright say it wouldn't work, but suggested the nicer screens. Ugh!

Lot's to consider!

I''ve had the Sharp as far as 18 feet from the screen, but I can't comment on how it would look on a low gain screen since i'm a brightness fanatic. 3D will likely take a hit on that size / distance / 120" since we're only working with ~600 lumens before the glasses. 2D should be fine though.

killer sub vs bright screen. flip a coin. cool.gif
post #947 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by analogBalrog View Post



Your "short answer" suggest that the Sharp Z30K could handle that throw with respectable brightness. Zombie & Airscapes didn't outright say it wouldn't work, but suggested the nicer screens. Ugh!

Lot's to consider!

It is not a Nicer Screen, it is a specialty screen. It has limitations as we have already discussed but if you can make it work with your projector and seating location, you can probably use eoc mode for 3D and reset the lamp counter after it hit 3000 hours and keep on going.. my Mistubishi HC3000 should be approching 4000 hours and looks wonderful.. I would go for the screen and worry about rumble later.. Oh, call AVS for pricing on the HP, don't bother looking on-line AVS will be the best price you can get other than Used.. I got lucky and found the 110" HP 2.8 model C on craigs list for $300. Come to think of it they guy lived in Horsham! eek.gif
post #948 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post

killer sub vs bright screen. flip a coin. cool.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by airscapes View Post

I got lucky and found the 110" HP 2.8 model C on craigs list for $300.

I had it in my head that these screens were going to cost $1K+. Looks like I was way off.

Killer sub AND bright screen. Apparently my coin is two-sided. Just call me Harvey Dent. cool.gif
post #949 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by analogBalrog View Post


I had it in my head that these screens were going to cost $1K+. Looks like I was way off.

Killer sub AND bright screen. Apparently my coin is two-sided. Just call me Harvey Dent. cool.gif

A new HP screen will cost you close to a grand.. I waited 3 years watching craigs list to find that one I have..
post #950 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by airscapes View Post

A new HP screen will cost you close to a grand.. I waited 3 years watching craigs list to find that one I have..

The pulldown versions cost considerably less. Unless you have a 100% dedicated room a pulldown could suffice.
post #951 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by airscapes View Post

A new HP screen will cost you close to a grand.. I waited 3 years watching craigs list to find that one I have..

Fortunately, that's not the case.

I just got off the phone with Mike at AVS and received a great quote on a 120" Model C HP 2.4 Da Lite. Not to mention the competitive price on the SVS-PB12 NSD. I didn't realize I could get it all at AVS. Fantastic!
post #952 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seegs108 View Post

The pulldown versions cost considerably less. Unless you have a 100% dedicated room a pulldown could suffice.

I actually do have a 100% dedicated room, but for now, pulldown will have to do.

"I got five kids to feed!" (Actually I don't, but that's a great quote from a fun movie. tongue.gif)
post #953 of 1581
Pulldowns are fine, I barely ever notice the waves in mine. I have a 2.4 Model B, can't roll it up though. I will replace it one of these days, but it's ok.
post #954 of 1581
+1,+1,+1 on the High Power. Even if you ceiling mount, you will still get a gain boost. As Zombie and others have said, if you want it really bright, then a shelf mount at close to eye level is the way to go.
FWIW, we have the 110" 2.8 HP Cosmo Electrol and a high ceiling mount with a 17 foot throw. It's almost too bright in 2D. We've been watching in "Movie #1". For 3D, we need the "Stage" setting, but it's still plenty bright.
My $.02. Go with the Cosmo Electrol if you can. It has precisely adjustable screen drop and the low voltage controls allow you to integrate the screen control from your remote. Sure it's a little more up front, but in my opinion, it contributes to the movie experience and worth the investment.
I'm sure that there will be other opinions, but that's what the forum is for. ..smile.gif
post #955 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by humbland View Post

+1,+1,+1 on the High Power. Even if you ceiling mount, you will still get a gain boost. As Zombie and others have said, if you want it really bright, then a shelf mount at close to eye level is the way to go.
FWIW, we have the 110" 2.8 HP Cosmo Electrol and a high ceiling mount with a 17 foot throw. It's almost too bright in 2D. We've been watching in "Movie #1". For 3D, we need the "Stage" setting, but it's still plenty bright.
My $.02. Go with the Cosmo Electrol if you can. It has precisely adjustable screen drop and the low voltage controls allow you to integrate the screen control from your remote. Sure it's a little more up front, but in my opinion, it contributes to the movie experience and worth the investment.
I'm sure that there will be other opinions, but that's what the forum is for. ..smile.gif

Sounds like the HP is the way to go. I'm working out the size req's on my room. Other than that, I'm all in. Guys, thanks for putting my fears to rest. Sounds like the Z is going to serve me well. My wife wants to call our theater "The Hatch" since we are Lost freaks. The Z and the HP will be at the backbone of our theater. Thanks so much for helping make that happen.

Cheers! biggrin.gif
post #956 of 1581
I just checked the Woot stats. At least one person purchased 3 of them!
At this price, if you had brightness concerns, you could stack them in an array and get a "torch" level image...
I hope the new owners enjoy the Z30K and encourage them to join the party.
We watched Spiderman in 3D last night. The entire family had vertigo from the aerial "swinging" scenes. I had t promise to lay off 3D for awhile...
Back to 2D until we get more Dramamine biggrin.gif
post #957 of 1581
Is anyone using Horizontal lens shift.. I know it is limited to 20% and I assume even less as you use vertical shift.. just wondering if anyone is seeing any image issues when using both horizontal and vertical shift. Any comments on how far reduced the horizontal is when using vertical? I want to temporarily place the projector off center to shoot between 2 seats.. Will report next week on how it works if no one has tried.
post #958 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by airscapes View Post

Is anyone using Horizontal lens shift.. I know it is limited to 20% and I assume even less as you use vertical shift.. just wondering if anyone is seeing any image issues when using both horizontal and vertical shift. Any comments on how far reduced the horizontal is when using vertical? I want to temporarily place the projector off center to shoot between 2 seats.. Will report next week on how it works if no one has tried.

It's in there, but we've only used it to center the image on the screen. The lens shift is very flexible, but if you push it, there's bound to be some distortion... Your best bet is to be in the middle.
Post back and let us know how it goes.
post #959 of 1581
Quote:
Originally Posted by humbland View Post

We watched Spiderman in 3D last night. The entire family had vertigo from the aerial "swinging" scenes. I had t promise to lay off 3D for awhile...
Back to 2D until we get more Dramamine biggrin.gif

We watched 'Wreck-it-Ralph' last night and everyone had the G20 glasses. This is one of my favorite 3D animations, a blast back to the arcade games of the 1980's.

Try tweaking the 'detail' setting when in 3D mode. I forget which mode it is, one of them had it set to 10 which looks surprisingly good without any obvious sharpening artifacts. I also bump up the color enhance to either 1 or 2 with the animations. It's adds extra saturation to the color which isn't technically right, but still fun to watch.
post #960 of 1581
Hi Zombie10K,


Thanks.
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