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Official Ceton Echo Extender Info Thread - Page 249  

post #7441 of 7721
Quote:
Originally Posted by dabretty View Post

How about remote control oddities? I'm using the big white MC remotes (from MS), and I get frequent ”double presses” that I don't see on either xbox. For instance, typing in a channel number often results in one too many numbers, taking me to channel 999 in the guide. Just another thing that kills WAF for me.

I have that issue with one of my older Logitech harmony remotes. My newer ones don't do it though.
post #7442 of 7721
Quote:
Originally Posted by cybrsage View Post

If the remote is programmable, you need to program the volume buttons to control the AVR volume.

This reply is comparable to "If the volume is too low, get a hearing aid. If the volume is too high, get ear plugs."
post #7443 of 7721
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjgertge View Post

I have that issue with one of my older Logitech harmony remotes. My newer ones don't do it though.

What harmony do you use? Personally I use a Harmony 880 at home (including with the Echo) without issue.
post #7444 of 7721
Quote:
Originally Posted by nycjoe77 View Post

This reply is comparable to "If the volume is too low, get a hearing aid. If the volume is too high, get ear plugs."

No, it is not. The goal is to control the AVR's volume. If it can be done via HDMI (which it cannot), then that is what is wanted. Since what is wanted is not possible, I offered a potential solution. To actually make your comparison valid, you would have had to say this:

This reply is comparable to "if you want to make someone shut up, but have no way of doing it, turn down your hearing aid. If they are too quiet and you want to hear them better, but cannot make them talk louder, turn up your hearing aid".
post #7445 of 7721
Quote:
Originally Posted by erickotz View Post

What harmony do you use? Personally I use a Harmony 880 at home (including with the Echo) without issue.

I have 3 Harmony 650 remotes that all work with out an issue. The one that doesn't work is the 680 I think. I'll have to look for sure when I get home. I know it is a remote issue, because I can bring one of my 650 remotes in, and it works fine. I've not fiddled a whole lot with it to see if there are more settings I can tweak to correct the issue.
post #7446 of 7721
I should program my unused 880 to control my echo and TV combination.
post #7447 of 7721
[/QUOTE]
Quote:
Originally Posted by cybrsage View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by lfox View Post

Has anyone found a way to make the volume control on the Echo function to actually control the volume sent through the HDMI connection to that individual TV? What am I missing.

If the remote is programmable, you need to program the volume buttons to control the AVR volume.

By The volume control on the echo I assumed he wanted to use the echo to dial up the tv/avr control by x when he turns up the echo volume. The challenge is the echo has no volume function outside of mute. My assumption is volume would eventually be tide into HDMI control functions once implemented. If the OP is using the echo remote this would be not possible as its not programmable. With a harmony or such your answer is correct.
post #7448 of 7721
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjgertge View Post

I have 3 Harmony 650 remotes that all work with out an issue. The one that doesn't work is the 680 I think. I'll have to look for sure when I get home. I know it is a remote issue, because I can bring one of my 650 remotes in, and it works fine. I've not fiddled a whole lot with it to see if there are more settings I can tweak to correct the issue.

In help and troubleshoot section of Harmony app, you can increase or decrease a number for your troubled remote. That number will correct either too many button commands fired or require too many clicks on the button to get the command recognized.
post #7449 of 7721
Quote:
Originally Posted by mariob33 View Post

My assumption is volume would eventually be tide into HDMI control functions once implemented. If the OP is using the echo remote this would be not possible as its not programmable. With a harmony or such your answer is correct.

There you go, then he cannot do it at all since there is no HDMI-CEC and the Echo remote is not programmable.
post #7450 of 7721
Quote:
Originally Posted by cybrsage View Post

If the remote is programmable, you need to program the volume buttons to control the AVR volume.
I am interested in an answer that will work in an ultra simple setup. Echo to TV via HDMI using only the unprogrammable Echo remote. Thanks for the input however.
post #7451 of 7721
Speaking of volume control on an extender, that is something that I have wanted for years... right now when I watch tv (both direct cable and through stb), bluray, dvds, vcr or nearly anything else, my volume level is at 15-18... when I use an extender (or play back anything recorded on WMC even through playing a file, regardless of it being recorded through cablecard or my hauppauge tuners (there used to be a registry key on those that increased volume but haven't found it lately), I must turn the volume level up to 40-50 to hear any dialogue then turn it down to 25-30 for loud sound effects. Now my stb can have the same problem if I set audio to anything other than narrow (I believe there is also a wide and normal setting), but I don't know if that is a different audio stream or some feature built into the STB that ends up producing louder dialogue without louder sound effects. Since nearly everything is protected, I doubt I could run it through some filter on the PC. I would love an audio feature similar to this narrow, normal, and wide settings on my cable box on an extender.

If anyone has a suggestion for doing this on the pc side that works with protected programs, I'd like to know. (not all of my rooms have AVRs)
post #7452 of 7721
Dialog Normalization in an AVR takes care of this.
post #7453 of 7721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Foxbat121 View Post

In help and troubleshoot section of Harmony app, you can increase or decrease a number for your troubled remote. That number will correct either too many button commands fired or require too many clicks on the button to get the command recognized.

That did the trick! Thank you! It was a Harmony 670 by the way.
post #7454 of 7721
I don't understand this volume thing at all. You paid $180 for the Echo. What's another $8 for a universal with volume control?
post #7455 of 7721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sammy2 View Post

Dialog Normalization in an AVR takes care of this.
Dialog normalization will crush the dynamic range of all material, which may or may not be acceptable. I think the poster is looking for a trim control so sources with different output levels can be adjusted so the volume control doesn't have to be manually adjusted when switching inputs - it's very common for AVR's to have input level adjustments for analog inputs that do exactly this. Some AVR's have input level adjustments for digital inputs too, but I believe that's a lot less common.
post #7456 of 7721
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsr View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sammy2 View Post

Dialog Normalization in an AVR takes care of this.
Dialog normalization will crush the dynamic range of all material, which may or may not be acceptable. I think the poster is looking for a trim control so sources with different output levels can be adjusted so the volume control doesn't have to be manually adjusted when switching inputs - it's very common for AVR's to have input level adjustments for analog inputs that do exactly this. Some AVR's have input level adjustments for digital inputs too, but I believe that's a lot less common.

I understand this. I don't use Dialog Normalization myself but merely offered it as an option.
post #7457 of 7721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Foxbat121 View Post

In help and troubleshoot section of Harmony app, you can increase or decrease a number for your troubled remote. That number will correct either too many button commands fired or require too many clicks on the button to get the command recognized.
Does anyone know if there's a comparable command for the URC MX-810. And if so, will it only change the remote's responsiveness when communicating with the Echo (becuase it works fine on every other component, in every other system, in my house)?
post #7458 of 7721
Quote:
Originally Posted by dabretty View Post

How about remote control oddities? I'm using the big white MC remotes (from MS), and I get frequent ”double presses” that I don't see on either xbox. For instance, typing in a channel number often results in one too many numbers, taking me to channel 999 in the guide. Just another thing that kills WAF for me.

Well that is a real bummer. I have 3 or 4 of those remotes I use for controlling the Xbox 360 and t.v. So I would guess this is yet another design flaw of the Echo? Sure makes you wonder what were they thinking.

On a side note. I lost my guide data last night. I am not sure what went wrong, but WMC would not update info for any channels unless they were broadcast channels going through Comcast. All the other channels showed No Data Available, lost last nights recordings. Event Viewer kept showing The NetworkMetadata package is not available as the culprit. I tried many of the known fixes to get the guide update working again, nothing worked. I had to go to settings-tv-tv signal-setup tv signal and switched zip codes to start a new guide. The problem with this fix is that I had to edit the guide again which is a real PIA.
post #7459 of 7721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Haba View Post

Well that is a real bummer. I have 3 or 4 of those remotes I use for controlling the Xbox 360 and t.v. So I would guess this is yet another design flaw of the Echo? Sure makes you wonder what were they thinking.

On a side note. I lost my guide data last night. I am not sure what went wrong, but WMC would not update info for any channels unless they were broadcast channels going through Comcast. All the other channels showed No Data Available, lost last nights recordings. Event Viewer kept showing The NetworkMetadata package is not available as the culprit. I tried many of the known fixes to get the guide update working again, nothing worked. I had to go to settings-tv-tv signal-setup tv signal and switched zip codes to start a new guide. The problem with this fix is that I had to edit the guide again which is a real PIA.

I just recently noticed my guide wasn't updating it was giving me an invalid headend id. I entered the zip and chose the same area but noticed the headend id was different. I'm guessing Comcast is moving stuff around in my area.
post #7460 of 7721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Haba View Post

Well that is a real bummer. I have 3 or 4 of those remotes I use for controlling the Xbox 360 and t.v. So I would guess this is yet another design flaw of the Echo? Sure makes you wonder what were they thinking.

How is that the echo's fault?
post #7461 of 7721
If a certified MC remote doesn't work with it that is an issue. If these remotes are not certified then it isn't ceton's fault if they don't work with the echo.
post #7462 of 7721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sammy2 View Post

If a certified MC remote doesn't work with it that is an issue. If these remotes are not certified then it isn't ceton's fault if they don't work with the echo.

Are you suggesting that the White MC remotes from MS aren't certified for MC?
post #7463 of 7721
Quote:
Originally Posted by ajhieb View Post

Are you suggesting that the White MC remotes from MS aren't certified for MC?

If you are talking about this remote:


http://support.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-360/accessories/universal-media-remote

Then read this:
Quote:
Windows Media Center Start Button
The Windows Media Center Start button lets you access a connected Windows Media Center–based PC through your Xbox 360 console. If you are set up to use Windows Media Center on your Xbox 360 console, pressing the button will start Windows Media Center. If you are not yet set up to use Windows Media Center on your console, pressing the button will start the Windows Media Center setup wizard.

The Windows Media Center button will also turn on the console if it is off.

It appears to only control WMC through an XBOX, not directly.
post #7464 of 7721
We should be grateful any remote besides the Ceton remote even works with the Echo. I don't of any other consumer electronics device that claims to work with any remote besides the one supplied. There's no way Ceton can test and guarantee every 3rd party MCE remote out there, even ones from Microsoft. The Echo uses it's own unique IR codes which are different from "standard" MCE signals (1 byte is different). It just happens to recognize and respond to Xbox (partially) and some other MCE remote signals. If you want a 3rd party remote to work 100%, it needs to use Echo codes. Otherwise you may have to do some tweaking, like changing the repeats. If your 3rd party remote works, that's great, but if it doesn't, you're on your own, and rightfully so.
post #7465 of 7721
My Rosewill 11001 works great with the echo but has the same hesitation that the echo remote has all the same.
post #7466 of 7721
Quote:
Originally Posted by cybrsage View Post

It appears to only control WMC through an XBOX, not directly.

I'm not quite sure I see your point? No one is talking about controlling WMC directly (even though it should be possible with a WMC IR receiver, as mine works just fine to control my WMC via the IR receiver in the case, or the HP IR receiver that I used to use) The XBox in this case is acting like an extender, and in this regard should be no different than the Echo.

There isn't an IR remote in the universe that will control WMC directly without something to receive it. That remote, or any other certified WMC remote should control a WMC system just fine EITHER by way of a WMC IR Receiver, or by way of an Extender that is compatible with the WMC remote protocol.

Are you suggesting that the above remote shouldn't work with the Echo?
post #7467 of 7721
Quote:
Originally Posted by mdavej View Post

We should be grateful any remote besides the Ceton remote even works with the Echo. I don't of any other consumer electronics device that claims to work with any remote besides the one supplied. There's no way Ceton can test and guarantee every 3rd party MCE remote out there, even ones from Microsoft. The Echo uses it's own unique IR codes which are different from "standard" MCE signals (1 byte is different). It just happens to recognize and respond to Xbox (partially) and some other MCE remote signals. If you want a 3rd party remote to work 100%, it needs to use Echo codes. Otherwise you may have to do some tweaking, like changing the repeats. If your 3rd party remote works, that's great, but if it doesn't, you're on your own, and rightfully so.

Agreed, but if Ceton is going to go plugging NewEgg deals on Facebook and suggesting that people might want to get a WMC remote, you'd think that it should be compatible with at least one of their products, no?
Quote:
We thought this special Newegg offer would be interesting to many of our fans. Today between 6 pm and midnight PT, Newegg is offering a special Shell Shocker deal on the Rosewill RHRC-11001 Infrared Media Center PC Remote Control. At only $13.99 it’s a pretty awesome 65% savings! If you’re interested, here’s the link:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16880101007&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-Digital+Media+Remote-_-Rosewill-_-80101007

I can't find the post at the moment but I've seen Ceton employees claim that the Echo uses the same RC-6 protocol as standard Media Center devices, which appears to be untrue. Had they not claimed compatibility, I wouldn't have an issue if the crummy bundled remote was the only one in the universe that worked right. But when you claim it works with industry standard protocols, that is pretty easily verified.

That being said, I haven't had any trouble using a WMC profile on my Harmony One, my Harmony 510, my MS remote, (mentioned above) or the one that came with my old HP z565, with the Echo, for the last several firmware revisions.
post #7468 of 7721
Quote:
Originally Posted by Haba View Post

Well that is a real bummer. I have 3 or 4 of those remotes I use for controlling the Xbox 360 and t.v. So I would guess this is yet another design flaw of the Echo? Sure makes you wonder what were they thinking.

On a side note. I lost my guide data last night. I am not sure what went wrong, but WMC would not update info for any channels unless they were broadcast channels going through Comcast. All the other channels showed No Data Available, lost last nights recordings. Event Viewer kept showing The NetworkMetadata package is not available as the culprit. I tried many of the known fixes to get the guide update working again, nothing worked. I had to go to settings-tv-tv signal-setup tv signal and switched zip codes to start a new guide. The problem with this fix is that I had to edit the guide again which is a real PIA.

This isn't actually a real WMC remote - the power buttons are flipped on it (why, I have no clue, but they are). That said, as far as I know this remote should work. I've got one around somewhere - I'll dig it out and try it on the latest FW.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ajhieb View Post

Agreed, but if Ceton is going to go plugging NewEgg deals on Facebook and suggesting that people might want to get a WMC remote, you'd think that it should be compatible with at least one of their products, no?
I can't find the post at the moment but I've seen Ceton employees claim that the Echo uses the same RC-6 protocol as standard Media Center devices, which appears to be untrue. Had they not claimed compatibility, I wouldn't have an issue if the crummy bundled remote was the only one in the universe that worked right. But when you claim it works with industry standard protocols, that is pretty easily verified.

That being said, I haven't had any trouble using a WMC profile on my Harmony One, my Harmony 510, my MS remote, (mentioned above) or the one that came with my old HP z565, with the Echo, for the last several firmware revisions.

The statement I have made in the past is that any official Microsoft-certified WMC remote (which basically translates to a green button with a Windows logo on it) should work with Echo. In fact, the remote we ship with Echo isn't custom-made for us (I believe we customized the silk-screening, but the remote is not custom) and it has shipped with at least one other brand of Extender in the past.

I have an assortment of official WMC remotes + some non-official ones, and all worked last time I tried. I will re-test on current FW, but I'm not aware of any changes that would affect this and we have tested an assortment in the past.

To those that are having issues with remote compatibility:
1. Have you removed the protective film from the front of the Echo?
2. Do you experience the same issue with the included remote?
3. Does the remote you are using have a windows-logo green button on it?
4. What brand and model is the remote?
post #7469 of 7721
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjgertge View Post

I have that issue with one of my older Logitech harmony remotes. My newer ones don't do it though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tjgertge View Post

I have 3 Harmony 650 remotes that all work with out an issue. The one that doesn't work is the 680 I think. I'll have to look for sure when I get home. I know it is a remote issue, because I can bring one of my 650 remotes in, and it works fine. I've not fiddled a whole lot with it to see if there are more settings I can tweak to correct the issue.

I have this issue with my Harmony 650 as well. I don't believe it's a "remote" issue, I think it's a "profile" issue.

I'm not a Harmony expert, so feel free to correct me/ignore me if my ignorance/foolishness is shining through here. But I configured my 650 with some sort of profile, and it worked great with my Echo for a while. I got a new AVR (I used to have a horrible clicking sound when fast forwarding/rewinding come through my speakers with Echo, and when I got this new AVR, an added bonus was that that went away with the AVR upgrade... I have no idea why). Simultaneously, my Xbox 360 died. Third-and-finally, I wanted multiple Echo Activities, such that one Activity had the TV using the picture from the AVR output (benefitting from AVR picture enhancements), and the other used my HDMI splitter to go to the AVR and the TV in parallel (to broadcast audio throughout the house using my wireless speaker system hooked up to the TV audio output).

Long story short: I did a lot of Harmony re-programming.

I can't remember what "profile" I had selected originally to control the Echo. But I believe it was a different one than "Windows Media Center PC remote", as an "other" device. Ever since that *reprogramming*, using the same 650 remote, I have this double-button-press issue tigertoe is mentioning above.


For whatever that's worth...
post #7470 of 7721
I haven't checked in on this thread in a while. I googled and found a "State of the Echo #3" page. Has their been any word, officially or unofficially from Erick/others, about what functionality may be in store when the Android Marketplace update comes through?

I'm specifically hoping for HBOGo and Rhapsody support. HBOGo is available on Xbox 360, but isn't supported (at least not for Comcast Customer's) using a Roku... and, to-date, it isn't available at all, for any cable subscriber, on PS3... so if the Echo can't do it, I can't *take care of this myself by buying a Roku*. I will also need a 360 (which basically defeats the purpose of having an Echo), or I'll have to just go without HBOGo anywhere I opt to use an Echo.

I'm patiently waiting for the Android Update before I give Microsoft any more of my hard-earned money... I really want Echo and Ceton to succeed here...I haven't given up hope. I'm just hoping that, regarding HBOGo (and Netflix... and to a lesser extent Rhapsody and Amazon Prime) support, I'm not waiting all these months for nothing...
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