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Question about Broken KDF-50WE655..

post #1 of 10
1/10/12 at 10:06pm
Thread Starter 
Hey everybody,

I'm new here and this is my first post, I guess. I sometimes pick up electronics I find on curbs because it's surprising how many times the item will be working or repairable.

Recently, I found an HDTV that I couldn't pass up. Of course, you know from the title, it was a KDF-50WE655 LA3 or in other words, a Sony LCD Projection TV. This TV was in excellent cosmetic and was perfect except for the fact that the screen remained black if it was turned on. However, upon turning on, the power button flashes green 10 times before turning a solid green.

I looked up a guide of Sony's key for this self diagnostic tool they built into the TV. This is what it said: "Ten blinks - Check Q8014 and Q8013 for shorts, leakage, or bad solder connections on the " D" board. If the transistors are bad, check R8051 and IC8005, also on the "D" board."

My problem is that the closest thing to a "D" board the Sony Operation Manual mentions for this tv is the "KD" board. Is the "D" board part of this one? Or is there something I'm missing...

Here is the link for the guide (the "KD" board is presented around page 55):
http://www.scribd[DOT]com/doc/47828627/KDF-42WE655

Thanks for any help in advance.
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post #2 of 10
1/11/12 at 8:57pm
From the service manual. 10 blinks is ATSC-OVP error. This would indicate a problem in either power supply board (G series) or in any circuit in the digital tuner and processing circuits.

The physical construction make it almost impossible to do component level repairs since the boards are sandwiched and are not readily accessible. The set was designed for board replacement as the repair method.

However, error blinks usually repeat, not stop after one iteration. An LED always blinks until the set comes out of blanking. It sounds more like the set is failing to turn on. By any chance does the set wait 30 seconds (if left alone) and start blinking again. A 30 second delay is built in if the lamp fails to strike.
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post #3 of 10
1/11/12 at 11:00pm
Thread Starter 
I turned it on and the same thing happened and then I waited for a minute or so and nothing. But if it is of any help, I noticed that after I pushed the power button to standby and 5 seconds later to turn on it flashed 30 or so times and did that same thing when I unplugged it, waited 10 seconds, and re-plugged it/turned it on. When I unplugged it and waited 5 minutes it repeated the original problem and it flashed 30 or so times again.

All of the flashing was in green.
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post #4 of 10
1/12/12 at 8:07am
I'm not sure you are getting any valid error codes. That's not unusual for their newer sets. Their parts sourcing often ends up with internal communication problems between processors.

Have you physically examined the lamp?

There are very few DIY repairs on these TVs.
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post #5 of 10
1/12/12 at 8:48am
Thread moved to proper display section.
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post #6 of 10
1/12/12 at 3:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by AutoAwesome View Post

Hey everybody,

I'm new here and this is my first post, I guess. I sometimes pick up electronics I find on curbs because it's surprising how many times the item will be working or repairable.

Recently, I found an HDTV that I couldn't pass up. Of course, you know from the title, it was a KDF-50WE655 LA3 or in other words, a Sony LCD Projection TV. This TV was in excellent cosmetic and was perfect except for the fact that the screen remained black if it was turned on. However, upon turning on, the power button flashes green 10 times before turning a solid green.

I looked up a guide of Sony's key for this self diagnostic tool they built into the TV. This is what it said: "Ten blinks - Check Q8014 and Q8013 for shorts, leakage, or bad solder connections on the " D" board. If the transistors are bad, check R8051 and IC8005, also on the "D" board."

My problem is that the closest thing to a "D" board the Sony Operation Manual mentions for this tv is the "KD" board. Is the "D" board part of this one? Or is there something I'm missing...

Here is the link for the guide (the "KD" board is presented around page 55):
http://www.scribd[DOT]com/doc/47828627/KDF-42WE655

Thanks for any help in advance.

The Power/Standby light always flashes for a while when you try to start one of these Sony RP-LCDs. It's a bootup procedure, which ends with either a lit lamp or not. If not, the TV will usually then flash an error code. The error code flashes its pattern, pauses, and repeats, and this will go on for as long as you want to watch it.

Based on your message, I would say you have a failure without an error message. Most likely reason is a bad lamp, which is not always successfully self-diagnosed. As someone else said, a simple physical inspection of the lamp will often make it obvious that it is bad, but not always.

Any time you pick up a tv with a lamp that doesn't work, first suspect the lamp.

If you replace the lamp, get a Philips or Sony or Osram, no Chinese knock-offs! Keep in mind that if you do get a new lamp and get it running you will then probably find it has typical WE/WF color problems. See more about that in the Owner's List, perversely named the GWIII owner's list.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...09559&page=129
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post #7 of 10
1/13/12 at 11:22am
Thread Starter 
You guys were right, the lamp isn't just gone..the bulb is in pieces and the case is cracked. Before I shell out the 50-70 to replace it I would like to know if you guys have any experience with these TVs flashing error codes after a bulb is replaced in a situation like mine. I know this may be a difficult thing to predict but any input would help me.

Thanks for all of your helpful posts so far.
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post #8 of 10
1/14/12 at 6:23am
Quote:
Originally Posted by AutoAwesome View Post

You guys were right, the lamp isn't just gone..the bulb is in pieces and the case is cracked. Before I shell out the 50-70 to replace it I would like to know if you guys have any experience with these TVs flashing error codes after a bulb is replaced in a situation like mine. I know this may be a difficult thing to predict but any input would help me.

Thanks for all of your helpful posts so far.

First, examine the 2 pin high voltage plug on the lamp housing and the mating socket in the TV for damage and look for serious melting of the area around the lamp housing.

Second, Sony TVs don't particularly like aftermarket lamps. A common occurrence is: The set turns on - runs a few minutes - turns off - counts down 30 seconds - turns back on - runs a few minutes - and repeats the cycle. You will have to try another lamp.

Note: the lamp must be handled with clean cloth gloves (if a generic lamp is installed into an old housing) - any fingerprint will cause the lamp to blow catastrophically.

Also, you will probably find the price much higher than you are thinking.
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post #9 of 10
1/17/12 at 12:33pm
Thread Starter 
Thanks zaphod7501.

The two pin plug appears fine. There is some melting but nothing serious, nothing that looks like it would impact the lamp's performance (the melting is mainly on the right side which is just charred on the inside and the frontmost part of the right side (looks like a support bar structure) is warped but not enough to restrict the lamp.

I must note, however, that in the upper right corner of the mirror there is a translucent smudge under the right light. Can I just get rid of it with a lens cleaning wipe? Or is the mirror more delicate than that...

Quote:


Also, you will probably find the price much higher than you are thinking.

What about this?

http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-co...6832080&sr=1-1
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post #10 of 10
1/17/12 at 3:05pm
You just have to be careful not to scratch the "first surface" mirror, but, since the image is not in focus at the mirror, its not very critical. A dirty mirror only reduces the brightness.

Since the Factory lamp is $200, that is (as advertised) a "compatible" lamp and Sony is notorious for not liking aftermarket lamps. Since historically the set is near end-of-life, I would hesitate to buy a Factory lamp myself, but I would only buy from a storefront business and not online.

....and any melting is a bad sign.
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