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2 LG Clone, 4 UXL-18 (Pi-18).......... - Page 9

post #241 of 515
Thread Starter 
Other things I'm using....

Here are the screws which have worked great for securing the driver to the cabinet. The wire I'm using I had extra from some other projects...this is for the speakon to the driver. And then some shots of the HOSA cables I have for these that I'm carrying over from the Dual F20 project...need to order 2 more I believe they were from bhphoto.

I spray painted the screws black since I don't like the silver screws in black cabs look.

I haven't gone out and bought the polyfill pillows for the cabinets yet..
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post #242 of 515
Thanks for adding all the pics! This is making me less apprehensive about going with eD for my box.

Is the mounting depth so great to provide for space for cone movement? Did you specifically request that depth? (looks like it's almost 2 inches?)
post #243 of 515
Thread Starter 
Some final shots of the first cabinet.

The driver does look GREAT in room.

More pictures to come as we get this thing completed--and I won't forget measurements and numerous REW graphs!

Crap is already resonating all over the room though when I crank this driver, it is super annoying. I wish I would have done sconces and no can lights as that is one of the main issues.
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post #244 of 515
I hope you dont have a drop ceiling to deal with too :O
post #245 of 515
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by carp View Post

So, basically they will be equivalent to sealed Caps, huh? Wow, that adds up to a butt-load of savings with 4 of them!!

Looks awesome Greg!! Glad I wandered over into the DIY forum, the thread was a good read, albeit very frustrating obviously - glad to see it's turning out well in the end.

Wish Luke and I would have thought of the zip tie thing when we replaced a driver on my 1st Cap... good ideas seem so obvious in hindsight.

I had been thinking about the zip tie thing ever since edgrocc about tore his fingers off with his LMS. Glad I remembered and tried it with Dustin here...works flawlessly! I would think after extensive EQ and measuring/placements these would top a quad pack of high end ID subs...but of course I'll have to put the time in to find all of that out

Quote:
Originally Posted by halo0 View Post

I really like the ease of hookup with the speakons, but issues like that would probably make me lean towards just good old-fashioned binding posts and bare wire.

I'm so tired of using binding posts from the GTGs and my stuff I wanted this...but yes the screws not being fully in the cabs is a bit of a letdown

Quote:
Originally Posted by tsloms View Post

I've used speakons on many speakers. I used an odd sized Forster bit that I think was 15/16". I never had an issue with the screw holes. I suspect they used too large of a bit for the speakon. I also has always used the screw type speakons as they are much easier to work with. Just screw down onto the bare wire. If you desire they also give a much easier spot to solder.

Good to know. I'll remember that for future projects. I'll also have to look for the screw type speakons and maybe use for the other 3 cabs or down the road.

Quote:
Originally Posted by halo0 View Post

Thanks for adding all the pics! This is making me less apprehensive about going with eD for my box.

Is the mounting depth so great to provide for space for cone movement? Did you specifically request that depth? (looks like it's almost 2 inches?)

If you don't have to have eD nail your timeline, the quality is pretty decent...I just don't have all of the tools to do what they can do, and I'd rather spend a few hundred extra on some cabs than do it myself. I'll also look into Seaton's cab company for speakers or his DIY later...I want to try all over the DIY/Custom ID world...

The depth is quite a bit, but the UXLs have a decent Xmax/mech so I'm guessing that is why they used 2"....If I had ordered the 3/4 material probably would only be at 1.5 inches...you also have to remember I ordered magnetic grills...you don't want the driver/surround etc hitting those.
post #246 of 515
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

I hope you dont have a drop ceiling to deal with too :O

Nope, just a multiuse basement (per wife) that isn't treated really at all and wasn't built as I wish I could have. (double drywall, isolation clips, etc).


People have PM'd me about bracing as well, I just went with what eD does. I know there are a ton of different beliefs and theories and mathematical based thoughts out there on resonances, etc...but I didn't really have an educated guess on that so I just said whatever you would normally do on your subs....
post #247 of 515
Looking good bro!!!
post #248 of 515
Pardon the probably stupid question, but what is the purpose of the foam ring that sits on top of the mounting surface outside of the surround? Is it covering up something?

post #249 of 515
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by halo0 View Post

Pardon the probably stupid question, but what is the purpose of the foam ring that sits on top of the mounting surface outside of the surround? Is it covering up something?

If you mount the driver like in a car application from the underside, or put a cover like the mfws had...you would need the gasket I'm assuming....the UXL doesn't come with a side or rear gasket which is nice...just mounts to the metal basket.

Mark @ IST said he is going to offer the cleaner car audio gasket you see..like on the LMS5400
post #250 of 515
That makes sense if you were doing an under-mount. Otherwise it looks kind of ugly IMO. Maybe I will ask him to omit it on mine.

Wow, you don't need a rear gasket to get an airtight seal? I'd just assumed it had one.
post #251 of 515
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by halo0 View Post

That makes sense if you were doing an under-mount. Otherwise it looks kind of ugly IMO. Maybe I will ask him to omit it on mine.

Wow, you don't need a rear gasket to get an airtight seal? I'd just assumed it had one.

Just ask Mark for the rubber gasket, or none I suppose.
I'll have magnetic grills so either way I'll be fine. Then can take off to show the guys the kickin driver.

Bosso and several other guys who have done numerous builds have recommended doing the driver directly to the cabinet and just throwing some of that clear caulk (window/door) between the basket and cabinet.

The thought actually is that if you include the gasket some drivers have you actually have MORE leaks or leak potential.

No leaks that I know of so far...
post #252 of 515
Yeah I asked about the rubber gasket but Mark said he did not have any available yet. Using caulk would work but would seem to make it a nightmare to pull it apart for any reason later.

The talk of delays at eD has me worried. I was thinking they were my fallback for a reliably quick build!
post #253 of 515
Thread Starter 
So desertdome just told me this caulk isn't the best to use. Just skip it on the other three?

Attachment 241140

Guess I learn stuff every day.......
LL
post #254 of 515
A bit off topic but does anyone know if these are available in a black dustcap instead of carbon fiber?
post #255 of 515
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ehoeft View Post

A bit off topic but does anyone know if these are available in a black dustcap instead of carbon fiber?

You mean the cone?
post #256 of 515
Ok guys, I'll give you a little tip. Take those rubber gaskets and cut them length wise down the middle. so they are shaped like a U, so you would cut in the middle of the U. You ten take the top of the gasket and dab a small amount of silicone or 2 sided tape or really any type of adhesive and attach the top part of the gasket to the driver. You've now covered the ugly screw holes and crappy looking foam on the driver. You've still got the better seal without the gasket but it will look much better and is easy to get off if you ever have to pull the driver.

I did it on my 2 mal-x 18's and it works perfect and looks great!
post #257 of 515
Quote:
Originally Posted by halo0 View Post

Pardon the probably stupid question, but what is the purpose of the foam ring that sits on top of the mounting surface outside of the surround? Is it covering up something?


pardon another stupid question....but it appears the driver is mounted off center in the opening? It also appears the opening is much bigger than it needs to be...is this a eD box or did you build it? eD boxes are usually spot on...so maybe its just the camera angle.
post #258 of 515
It's an optical illusion due to the angle the picture was taken at. The woofer is mounted in a deep recess, the camera is off axis slightly to the right, so you are seeing a bit of the inside of the recess on the left.
post #259 of 515
Quote:
Originally Posted by HuskerOmaha View Post

Next up is the Speakon connector component of the cabinet.

I was a little worried ordering these, because I'm sure eD doesn't have as much history doing these on cabinets...but it looks like they did it exactly how I would have done it...with the minor issues I had contemplated.

Unless they are out there and I haven't found them yet...

I wish Speakon poles were more well built and industrious. They have tiny spots to solder the speaker wire to. I wish they had +/- posts (internal) on the other side of the cable connector (external) similar to what the nice drivers do like the LMS U, UXL, etc. It would be much easier than doing the solder where you pretty much have to have another person to hold the wire down as you do it. Thanks stormwind!

Looking at the cabs...the speakon is secured with 2 screws to the cabinet which I'm betting eD used a forstner bit like I would unless they can CNC that too.

The problem you run into is getting those two screws fully into the cabinet. 2 of the cabs had the screws both into the cab but the wood was breaking out into the hole a bit, and the other 2 cabs have it like you see in this picture. One screw full imbedded, the other just half in and half exposed.

Not sure you can do it any better...but after you seal the speakon with some clear caulk from the outside I don't think there will be an issue. I can't feel a leak at all.

Hi Greg,

There are in fact much more robust SpeakOn connectors as you can find here. The version you used is considered a "panel mount" which tends to work better in metal panels vs. say this version with a much larger flange. The tabs are intended for 0.187" or 1/4" quick disconnects, or you can find the STX (metal) version with much easier solder terminals at places like Markertek.

For those looking at using similar, many pro users recess the terminals so they sit down flush or below to prevent damage in sliding or handling. I'd have to double check to see what size screws fit the holes, but a smaller flat head screw will sit down flush and be less likely to break out the holes. The best results will come from pre-drilling with a bit smaller than the minor diameter of the screw.

While you've had quite the adventure with this project, the result does look rather imposing and should be quite impressive once dialed in!

PS-thanks for highlighting all the little details guys like Jeff & I burn so much time and effort coordinating in production products!
post #260 of 515
Quote:
Originally Posted by HuskerOmaha View Post


You mean the cone?

Yup lol that's what I meant
post #261 of 515
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Seaton View Post

Hi Greg,

There are in fact much more robust SpeakOn connectors as you can find here. The version you used is considered a "panel mount" which tends to work better in metal panels vs. say this version with a much larger flange. The tabs are intended for 0.187" or 1/4" quick disconnects, or you can find the STX (metal) version with much easier solder terminals at places like Markertek.

For those looking at using similar, many pro users recess the terminals so they sit down flush or below to prevent damage in sliding or handling. I'd have to double check to see what size screws fit the holes, but a smaller flat head screw will sit down flush and be less likely to break out the holes. The best results will come from pre-drilling with a bit smaller than the minor diameter of the screw.

While you've had quite the adventure with this project, the result does look rather imposing and should be quite impressive once dialed in!

PS-thanks for highlighting all the little details guys like Jeff & I burn so much time and effort coordinating in production products!

Which speakon connector is best for "wood boxes"?
post #262 of 515
Greg just pick up some foam gasket tape from the hardware store. Comes on a roll usually in the windows and doors section. Also sold as camper seal sometimes. Use it under the drivers. Put a ring under your speakons too. Ban.

Mark linked the speakon jacks to get. Nice wide flange for sealing. Pre drill the screws and find some small panheads. Gasket tape underneath the flange. If you want to flush mount the jacks you can rout to about 3/8" deep. Either solder the terminals or gi fir some spade connectors.
post #263 of 515
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark Seaton View Post

Hi Greg,

There are in fact much more robust SpeakOn connectors as you can find here. The version you used is considered a "panel mount" which tends to work better in metal panels vs. say this version with a much larger flange. The tabs are intended for 0.187" or 1/4" quick disconnects, or you can find the STX (metal) version with much easier solder terminals at places like Markertek.

For those looking at using similar, many pro users recess the terminals so they sit down flush or below to prevent damage in sliding or handling. I'd have to double check to see what size screws fit the holes, but a smaller flat head screw will sit down flush and be less likely to break out the holes. The best results will come from pre-drilling with a bit smaller than the minor diameter of the screw.

While you've had quite the adventure with this project, the result does look rather imposing and should be quite impressive once dialed in!

PS-thanks for highlighting all the little details guys like Jeff & I burn so much time and effort coordinating in production products!


I just replaced the 2 pole speakon jack on the f20s I bought from greg with the second one you posted. I like it quite a bit more then what was already there. A lot more to grab on to when screwing it in.
post #264 of 515
To clarify; I have never suggested using silicone (or any other type) caulk to install a driver.

I use closed cell foam tape, 3/4" wide x 1/4" thick:



First, remove and discard the rubber gasket:



1) Paint a light coat of contact adhesive on the box driver recess seat and allow to dry.

2) Apply the foam tape. Overlap the tape once you get all the way around.

3) Cut through the overlap with a sharp utility knife, perpendicular to the cutout.

4) Carefully peel away the useless parts and butt he foam tape seam so that there are no gaps.

5) Set the driver in the hole.

6) Pre-drill the holes using a drill diameter that allows your screw size to fit tightly without exploding the MDF.

7) Instal the screws to snug. Then do the final tightening of the screws as you would tighten the lugs on a car wheel, crossing back and forth.

No leaks, guaranteed, every time.

To remove the driver, use a pair of paint can openers. They have a hooked end that fits into the drivers mounting hole and grabs the frame. Start at one hole and slowly lift the driver to break the seal without damaging the foam.

Do NOT use caulk of any kind. It's messy, unnecessary and silicone is problematic from several angles.

Bosso
post #265 of 515
Thread Starter 
Dave,

Thanks for the clarification..I think I was trying to mean the removal of the rubber gaskets but lumped in the silicone. Desertdome used the foam tape or something similar on our MFW-15 dual opposed build, so I probably should have gone with that. In a hurry to get one of these fired up.

Josh and Mark,

Thanks for the info regarding the speakon jacks...I'll definitely swap mine out and order the larger flange ones with the better connections. I figured something better was out there I just haven't had time to go do the research, thanks for the links.



I should be ordering the final two drivers next Friday from Mark.
post #266 of 515
Quote:
Originally Posted by bossobass View Post

To clarify; I have never suggested using silicone (or any other type) caulk to install a driver.

I use closed cell foam tape, 3/4" wide x 1/4" thick:



First, remove and discard the rubber gasket:



1) Paint a light coat of contact adhesive on the box driver recess seat and allow to dry.

2) Apply the foam tape. Overlap the tape once you get all the way around.

3) Cut through the overlap with a sharp utility knife, perpendicular to the cutout.

4) Carefully peel away the useless parts and butt he foam tape seam so that there are no gaps.

5) Set the driver in the hole.

6) Pre-drill the holes using a drill diameter that allows your screw size to fit tightly without exploding the MDF.

7) Instal the screws to snug. Then do the final tightening of the screws as you would tighten the lugs on a car wheel, crossing back and forth.

No leaks, guaranteed, every time.

To remove the driver, use a pair of paint can openers. They have a hooked end that fits into the drivers mounting hole and grabs the frame. Start at one hole and slowly lift the driver to break the seal without damaging the foam.

Do NOT use caulk of any kind. It's messy, unnecessary and silicone is problematic from several angles.

Bosso

I have done this EXACT thing on every build thus far Look Ma, No Holes?
post #267 of 515
It's my preferred way of installing a driver as well, of course I learned this from Bosso years ago.
post #268 of 515
I've done it both ways. One of my mal'x 21's need caulk as the basket was a bit warped. No amount of gasket tape would totally seal it. I used some gasket tape and put caulking around it then plopped my driver down. Worked perfect but that was only because I had to do it.
post #269 of 515
Thread Starter 
Ordered the EMM-6 mic (Basic +) from CSL last night.

Also ordered a mic stand, some cables, and the Tascam 144 from bhphoto as well. The bhphoto stuff shipped this morning, quick!

Now if you guys (tgs3) would all stop sending drivers to Ricci so he could finish throwing my UXL in a box I could have a pair in a week or so to run some numbers on.
post #270 of 515
Hmm, I was hoping the mic that came with my Onkyo receiver would be sufficient for eq. I assume that is not the case?
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