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Great News on my Three Pi Speaker Build

post #1 of 19
Thread Starter 
Some of you may recall that my hearing aids were interacting with the Three Pi Speakers, and I had to go to my audiologist and have him add a second and third music program, and take them off Auto.

He cut a good bit in the 1K to 2K region, and boosted the 6K to 8K range. The speakers sound great now. I'm actually ecstatic about the range and accuracy of the sound. Wayne said that I might want to drop the 500K to 1000K range also, so I will have that done to one of the programs and switch back and forth to see how I like it.

I had a cabinet maker build the cabinets to spec except he used 3/4" MDF instead of 5/8". The internal dimensions are the same. I also had him lengthen the cabinet sides by 20" to avoid having to come up with a stand. If you were to cut off the bottom 20 inches, you would see the real speaker bottom.

Anyway, the quality of the sound and components is outstanding. I would recommend them to anyone.

I'm thinking about a high gloss white veneer and leaving the drivers bare. I'm toying with the idea of a deep midnight blue.

I'm attaching pics of the build. Pardon the mess, but it was late (3:00 am) and I didn't feel like straightening a room.

Floyd
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post #2 of 19
i do recall and super glad that you got something worked out.

:-) glad to 'hear' they worked out.
post #3 of 19
Thanks for the followup. Deep Midnight Blue YES!!

I can't wait to build a pair of 6π corner horns with a 3π center.
post #4 of 19
I am partial to red, but then they would disappear in your wall - and you don't want that.
post #5 of 19
Congrats! White would be striking with the red background but also possibly distracting in proximity to the TV? Just food for thought.
post #6 of 19
Black base with a blue pearl:



It will appear black, but any reflected light will have a blue tinge...

Another one with more pearl:



JSS
post #7 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxmercy View Post

Black base with a blue pearl:



It will appear black, but any reflected light will have a blue tinge...

Another one with more pearl:



JSS

AWESOME! Can you put a finish like that on MDF? Maybe I could find a plastic that looked like that that could be used as a veneer?
post #8 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Durzil View Post

Congrats! White would be striking with the red background but also possibly distracting in proximity to the TV? Just food for thought.

I agree with both your thoughts. Something very dark with bare drivers. The red was done by the previous owner.
post #9 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoCaboNow View Post

I am partial to red, but then they would disappear in your wall - and you don't want that.

I can change the wall color. Maybe something dark red and metallic. How to get that on MDF?
post #10 of 19
Thread Starter 
http://www.nevamar.com/nevamar/pages...s_1.php?page=2

Plastic for veneer. I like the Regimental Blue, Dark Blue, Black, Jett Black.
Anyway, I have 4 x 5 inch samples coming.
post #11 of 19
www.paintwithpearl.com

Good prices. You can get great finish on MDF, it takes some time, though. Get a good basecoat, then add the pearl to a clear layer, then clearcoat until thick enough to polish out and you get the pearl effect best with a good polish.

Practice on flat panels first.

JSS
post #12 of 19
Black basecoat with red flake:



Kinda 'bassboat-ish', if that's your thing....the flakes are actually smaller than you think, I did a surfboard with them for a friend:





The cool thing is that they consistently change which flakes reflect, pictures just do not do it justice.


JSS
post #13 of 19
Thread Starter 
Bet takes more than a little practice to do that kind of work!

Your using a compressor with a can reservoir above the spray gun right?
How expensive is the paint and clear coat?

Need to do some stuff on my bike too.

Floyd
post #14 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Floydster View Post

Bet takes more than a little practice to do that kind of work!

Your using a compressor with a can reservoir above the spray gun right?
How expensive is the paint and clear coat?

Need to do some stuff on my bike too.

Floyd

I did the boards with a Passche airbrush and a cheap harbor freight jamb gun, basecoats are acrylic paints from Michael's/HobbyLobby thinned with water and Future (the stuff for floors). Flakes were sprayed with Future. The gloss is epoxy.

Shaped and glassed the boards, too....

JSS
post #15 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Floydster View Post

I had a cabinet maker build the cabinets to spec except he used 3/4" MDF instead of 5/8". The internal dimensions are the same. I also had him lengthen the cabinet sides by 20" to avoid having to come up with a stand. If you were to cut off the bottom 20 inches, you would see the real speaker bottom.

That looks like space for two more subwoofers to me.
post #16 of 19
Thread Starter 
If I use a clear laminate (comes in 8 x 10 sheets), can cool effects done to the cabinet after they are glued on (veneered)? If I can get a matte finish only, in the color I like, can clear coat be applied to make them really sparkle?

I need to find a shop willing to do the work at a reasonable cost, because I would use up more money in scrapped work than the cabinets are worth. I found a wood shop that did the cabinets to spec for $190 for the pair.

If clear coat is applied, would the final finish be as tough as a clear coat car finish?

I'm picking your brain because your work looks great, and I am so tired of wood or wood veneer. I want something classy, but not something that vies for attention. That would be like some of these kids with colored lights under their cars and a loud muffler on a hot water four.

I don't know that much about laminate (plastic) as a veneer. Surely it would be tougher than MDF.

Floyd
post #17 of 19
For the record: I did the surfboards, but not the cars or the car panels....

I would just paint right onto MDF after a good primer coat is well sanded.

Paint your basecoat, then allow it to dry fully, then your effects coat(s), and then many clearcoats, with wetsanding in between if necessary to get the 'depth'. Or, do one thick clearcoat with epoxy and wetsand and polish.

Look up any thread by PassingInterest. Great learning to be had there....

Seriously. Get some 1/4" MDF and practice. You don't need hella expensive stuff to get goood results:



That color-shifting green is $1.50 a jar at Michael's. Part of DecoArt's Dazzling Metallics line, the name is Festive Green. It's the clearcoat that makes it pop. That pic is when the epoxy glosscoat was curing.

JSS
post #18 of 19
P.S. if you plan to paint MDF, you have to have a *really* well sealed base-coat, particularly on the edges or you will get seam growth that will show through your final paint job!

Some typical techniques are to paint the edges with thinned wood glue first, use a high build primer like BIN, or just paint everything with shellac first.
post #19 of 19
Thread Starter 
Thanks guys. Practice is the way for me. I'll get some cheap mdf and see if I can get something I like.
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