DIY Projector Lift with Limited Space

The finished product


There have been a couple of other threads that have covered this topic, but each DIY is different and I wanted to keep a log of my progress in case others wanted ideas. Also, most of the other lift projects had tons of space in their ceiling to put steam engines or whatever else they wanted up there. I don't! I have to clear a 10" soffit to the screen, and I only have the joist space to work with. That's 16" OC with an 8" depth.

If I don't put the lift in, I would hit my head on the projector because I'm tall (6' 2").

I have a plan! I am posting it here, and pending any changes from your feedback, I will order the parts, build, and report as I go.

My crude design


I adapted the design from here:
http://www.firgelliauto.com/home-aut...n-projects.php

Parts!
Drawer Slides: http://www.amazon.com/Drawer-Slide-E.../dp/B000972K8Y
Linear Actuator: http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_...roducts_id=112
The Switch: http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_...8d5badc353942e
Black partially threaded rod: http://www.amazon.com/TE-CO-Black-Th...476124&sr=1-17
Threaded clamp for rods: http://www.amazon.com/Ruland-TCL-8-1...6842686&sr=1-1
Power: I found an AC transformer here that's 12vdc 4amp. If that doesn't work out, I'll buy this one. http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_...roducts_id=103 or find one similar on Amazon.
The rest: I will build the box from wood and stain it. I will probably trim it out nicely.

As I progress I will update with pictures.

I know stuff falling from the sky is a concern, especially with avoiding the replacement cost of my projector and my desire to keep my family's lack of head wounds at an all time high. I have in place, three things that would prevent a falling projector. First, the line tied to the actuator. Second, the safety stop blocks. Finally, the four slide rails have stops on them.

Anyone have any concerns, questions, or feedback?

My room layout is in my build thread below, if you're curious.

Lesson #1: Expect to buy extra parts. I am just starting as a DIYer, and I don't have a great assortment of spare nuts, bolts, trim, screws, brushes, etc. I have probably bought hardware enough for 4 lift projects at this point, but I'm having fun.

I'm done with building the woodwork, save for a couple of holes for mounting and cabling. I've also mounted the actuator, pulley, and cables.

You'll see in the pictures below that I took the area where the projector is going and cleaned up the space in the joists.

Lesson #2: Ripping anything accurately with a circular saw is a pain. I hope I can get into a band saw or table saw soon!

So here are some pictures of my progress. I will try to take more as I'm getting close to finishing. I am just waiting on my drawer slides coming today. I needed 10"er's, but I had ordered 12"er's. Another example of having extra! This is what an experienced builder would be able to avoid...

The space before cleaning up


Cleaned up and blocked in for the PJ lift box


You can see the location in my room where the cables hang down


Here's the box that will sit against the ceiling, made from 3/4" hardwood plywood from HD.


Spay painted the washers with rustoleum ultra flat black


The box trimmed and stained


The joined platforms that slide down from inside the box


Here's a view from what you might actually once it's mounted. I will spray the nuts holding the hook black so they don't stand out so much.


Here are a couple pictures of the 1/2" nuts and bots on my threaded rod. It's WAY overkill structurally, but I liked the aesthetic of the 1/2" rods.



That it for now! Some of the pictures were taking with my BB Bold, others with a Nikkon DSLR. Sorry about the former.

I wanted to mention the reason I'm doing this. Below you can see I have a beam running across the room. I want to lower the projector to clear this when in use. I also want it out of the way so I don't hit my head on the projector when it's lowered down.

Without the lift, mounted normally, I would have hit my head!

Thanks for your feedback! Initially, I won't have seating beneath the projector. The back row is phase 2; I have sectionals for the front and only row. Once I add a back row, I think I will try to have it like you have it!

1. I had planned to mount them at the corners or near them for this reason. Also, they are not bearing any weight, so shifting should be minimized. I hope I don't have the issue you mention, but I think I'm in the best scenario possible. If I have to buy better slides, then so be it.

2. My plan is to get the cable through a hole to the PJ. Above the holes, I clip it down so the movement of the cable is limited to the space between the top plate and the ceiling. Then I was going to apply a mild 90 degree crease in the middle to allow the cables to bend properly. If this is too wild, I would strap them to a 1by2 with hinges, like you see on slide out server racks.

EDIT: By the way, you're totally right that my HDMI cable is very stiff and the end is not that great. I will need to be careful getting this connected safely to the projector. Do you think it would be a problem using that cable savor since the gauge is so much lower than my 25' cable?

Last night I got a chance to install the drawer slides since they came in. The 10" slides fit very well and were so close to being too big or small. For example, once installed, the top of the rail was less than 1/8" from the ceiling. I'm very grateful it worked out!

Here are some pictures and a quick vid of the slides' movement.

The slides installed


Before I put the last screw in, I aligned it to the rails


Here's the box before I put it up


Here's the box installed on the ceiling


Here's a vid of the slide movement. I hope I win dullest video posted for the year...

Well, I am finished for now. There are a couple of steps left, but they'll have to wait until the room is more complete. I need to add trim to the box. Also, there is a slight wobble when the lift stops in the open position. I don't think it matters, but it can adjusted simply by balancing the projector on the platform. If that doesn't work permanently, I'll make some custom shims and place them between the platform and the edge of the box.

Pictures!

Here is the power supply and remote control receiver mounted next to the actuator


Here's how I mounted the actuator


The box right before I added the lift platforms


The box after the lift platform is mounted


The lift descending...


The lift down!


Here's my dog, Bones, expressing the level of interest I imagine you're experiencing right this minute.



But wait, there's more...

Here are a couple videos of the lift.



Another vid which shows the actuator running


That's it for now. I will update the thread with answers if you have any questions and I'll post pictures after the room is done for the final trimmed out pj lift.

This is the device I bought from Firgelli Automation. It works great. You can switch it from "Press & Hold" to operate, or what I have set to, "Press & Forget" where it takes the lift down or up with just one click. You just then need to click it twice to stop it midway if you like.



http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_...products_id=18

It seems to from what I've tested. I'll know for sure once I have my screen up and I can detect it with pixel perfection on the edge. I will update at that point.

EDIT: Thanks for the compliment!

I'm sorry, Dave. I'm afraid I can't do that.

Suntan,
I wanted to you and others know that those cable saver 8" extension cables were perfect. I never would have been able to do it without them. The 25' cables were just too this to make the turn in my tight space. I also orderered the 90 degree turn adapters, but they did not fit because of the way JVC's case sticks out at the top over the HDMI plug.

Thanks everyone for the compliments. I spent so many hours researching getting the right bolts, buts, slides, ETC that it's nice to get some encouragement.


You're absolutely right. I was worried about the slides sticking if the platform swayed left or right too much, but they have enough give that it just keeps going and doesn't catch.

The items you linked to are great looking. I hadn't run into those during my research, but I certainly would have considered them. They would require more precision, which is a hassle at first, but pays off in the long run. My only concern would be having to re-align if the wood expands or contracts anywhere. If you're not using a wood frame like me, that wouldn't be an issue.

Those probably would have worked better, but I don't need them.

I don't have my screen setup yet, so I'm not 100% sure if it's consistent. It seems to be, but I won't know until I'm finished with my build.

If, at that point, there is a problem, I will take care of it and post my solution here. I have a few ideas of how to do it, so I don't think it'll be a permanent problem if there is one.