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Samsung D series FBr fix discussion - Page 6

post #151 of 1567
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post

you can try the normal full firmware update and then check your logic board version. If that didn't update then follow the directions to update the logic board in the OP

I'll give it a go tonight and post the results on here.

Thank you for the quick response Zoyd.
post #152 of 1567
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post

@Randroid - did you upgrade just your logic board on the 550 or was that a full firmware upgrade?

It was a full firmware upgrade.
post #153 of 1567
zoyd, you seem to have a vast knowledge of how these TV's work, so in your opinion do you think the separate (and really annoying to me) issue with the brightness limiter and the dimming of whites when watching hockey could ever be remedied, or am I just stuck with dealing with it?

(I do understand that hockey flashes are not FBr)

Now that the FBr is addressed, the only issues I have left is the above and some buzzing. Slowly but surely one issue at a time this TV is getting to a point where I may actually be happy and can just shut up and enjoy it lol
post #154 of 1567
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flash311 View Post

zoyd, you seem to have a vast knowledge of how these TV's work, so in your opinion do you think the separate (and really annoying to me) issue with the brightness limiter and the dimming of whites when watching hockey could ever be remedied, or am I just stuck with dealing with it?

(I do understand that hockey flashes are not FBr)

Now that the FBr is addressed, the only issues I have left is the above and some buzzing. Slowly but surely one issue at a time this TV is getting to a point where I may actually be happy and can just shut up and enjoy it lol

No, if you lifted the brightness limiter the panel would blow a fuse (or overheat). They are designed to operate below a maximum current load and you can't change that.

The buzzing you here is primarily the big drive capacitors on the X and Y scan boards and I've seen some buzzing alleviated by installing damper pads on the edges of the drive boards and screw mounts.
post #155 of 1567
Unfortunately I was expecting you to say that...

Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post

The buzzing you here is primarily the big drive capacitors on the X and Y scan boards and I've seen some buzzing alleviated by installing damper pads on the edges of the drive boards and screw mounts.

Even in the case of my buzz that is very directional? I'd say it's about bug-zapper-unbearable dead center at 12' (on my couch) to hardly audible at the far left or right cushion.

Sorry for diverging off topic.
post #156 of 1567
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flash311 View Post

Unfortunately I was expecting you to say that...



Even in the case of my buzz that is very directional? I'd say it's about bug-zapper-unbearable dead center at 12' (on my couch) to hardly audible at the far left or right cushion.

Sorry for diverging off topic.

I haven't experienced a directional buzz before, maybe there is a single component that is poorly damped or loose. I don't know how one would fix that without tearing it open and identifying the source (or get a new panel and hope it doesn't happen again). I can tell you that mine is more or less the same as my old panny, I can hear it during bright scenes from any location provided the sound is off. As soon as the sound is at normal level I don't hear it.
post #157 of 1567
Thanks zoyd.
post #158 of 1567
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flash311 View Post

zoyd, you seem to have a vast knowledge of how these TV's work, so in your opinion do you think the separate (and really annoying to me) issue with the brightness limiter and the dimming of whites when watching hockey could ever be remedied, or am I just stuck with dealing with it?

(I do understand that hockey flashes are not FBr)

I noticed the same thing. What makes it worse than your typical Panasonic plasma is that the brightness shifts occur suddenly, stay for a few seconds, then suddenly shift back. On the Panasonic plasmas, the brightness also dims but it's much more gradual and smooth where it's not distracting. We are not talking about the camera flashes on the ice.

Did the hockey brightness changes improve at all for you after this FBr update or did it only help pops in darker scenes?
post #159 of 1567
Damn, was just about to go pick up a 51PND7000 since it looked like the Fbr was possibly fixed. Now I'm reading that these sets aren't great for hockey? Ugh, now I'm back to square one - I watch hockey a ton.
post #160 of 1567
Zoyd -- does upgrading the logic board manually void the Samsung Warranty?

Thanks
Red
post #161 of 1567
Thread Starter 
you'll have no problem getting warranty service if you need it
post #162 of 1567
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post

I thought it might be useful to start a separate thread to try and come to some consensus on whether Samsung has addressed the issue of "pops" with their latest firmware which is currently available only to those who request it (or download it from users who have received the updates).
......

Responding Fix Applied Fix Optimized Fix worked Fix did not work Undecided
28 28 17 20 5 3

Models showing positive results: PN64D8000, PN59D8000, PN51D8000, PN64D550, PN59D550, PN51D550, PN59D7000

Additional reports and measurements have indicated that neither the firmware upgrade or the logic board upgrade are detrimental to overall black level performance. The logic board upgrade is what will fix the "pop" issue. There are still rising blacks that depend on APL but no longer any noticeable jumps. The spreadsheet is now closed, thanks for your help!

....

Why no mention of the PN59D6500 here?
post #163 of 1567
Do any other owners of the D7000/D8000 watch a lot of hockey? Do you have similar issues as discussed a few posts up?
post #164 of 1567
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post

...
Having said that, many people have upgraded successfully and I've performed it on my 51" D8000 twice without any problems. LarryInRI has tested on the D7000 and it works properly (D550 has not tested been tested yet). The D7000 requires you to use the factory remote emulator ruSamsungCommunicator to unlock the logic usb d/l menu item, you need to connect to your TV with the emulator and press info+factory.

Tips on using the emulator:

1. Yes, I know it's in a foreign language, buck up and use google translate.
2. Make sure your display has "wireless remote control" enabled (TV can be hard wired or wireless)
3. On first connect your display will ask for permission to control, click yes of course.

D8000 procedure

1. Download this file.
2. Extract file for your model from list below and rename it to LOGIC.bin
3. Place on stick in folder PDP_LOGIC
4. Turn on TV and attach stick to USB 1
5. Press mute+7+3+7+enter
6. Check Logic SW version
7. Check panel type (DS or DF)
8. Navigate to Logic USB D/L and select it
9. Right arrow to initiate flash (no turning back here)
10. "Updating" will be displayed if the TV accepted the file and this takes a minute or so and then the TV reboots.
11. Recheck Logic SW version.

D7000 procedure (probably the same for all models below D8000)

1. Download this file.
2. Extract file for your model from list below and rename it to LOGIC.bin
3. Place on stick in folder PDP_LOGIC
4. Turn on TV and attach stick to USB 1
5. Press mute+7+3+7+enter
6. Check Logic SW version
7. Check panel type (DS or DF)
8. Turn off TV and turn back on
9. Establish a wireless connection with the emulator in the Fernbedienung tab
10. On the emulator, hit the Info button and then the Factory button to get into the Service Menu
11. Navigate to SVC and select it
12. Navigate to Logic USB D/L and select it
13. Right arrow to initiate flash (no turning back here)
14. "Updating" will be displayed if the TV accepted the file and this takes a minute or so and then the TV reboots.
15. Recheck Logic SW version.


Messages you might see when upgrading:

"Failed" -> TV could not find an upgrade file, check to make sure LOGIC.bin is in folder PDP_LOGIC.
"No Match" -> TV found LOGIC.bin but doesn't like it.
"Updating" -> You are golden.

Timing board flash files:
TCON.zip contains the following files from the FW bundle which are identical for both the D7000 and D8000 models (unknown if they work on D550). These files should also work for the D6500 and D6900 displays since they all use the same logic board.

51DF_DeepBlack.bin
51DS_DeepBlack.bin
59DS_ITO_DeepBlack.bin
59DS_ITOless_DeepBlack.bin
64DS_ITO_Deepblack.bin
64DS_ITOless_DeepBlack.bin

51" panel use -> 51DS_DeepBlack.bin or 51DF_DeepBlack.bin (depends on panel type)
59" panel use -> 59DS_ITO_DeepBlack.bin
64" panel use -> 64DS_ITO_DeepBlack.bin

Note: If the ITO_DeepBlack.bin file does not work for you try the ITOless_DeepBlack.bin, some panels prefer one over the other (don't know why).

I can't seem to download the factory remote emulator ruSamsungCommunicator

That said, what is the process for the PN59D6500 ?
post #165 of 1567
Yeah, the communicator link seems to be dead at the moment. Maybe someone can post the actual file.

The procedure for the D6500 should be the same as for the D7000.
post #166 of 1567
Thread Starter 
Added a mirror link for the emulator in OP and yes, follow D7000 procedure for D6500 (and D6900)
post #167 of 1567
Zoyd, Thank you for all that you are doing here!
Couple of questions for you.

Quote:


The D7000 requires you to use the factory remote emulator ruSamsungCommunicator to unlock the logic usb d/l menu item, you need to connect to your TV with the emulator and press info+factory.

What do I connect to my TV?

Quote:


9. Establish a wireless connection with the emulator in the Fernbedienung tab

How do I do that?
post #168 of 1567
Thread Starter 
1. Install ruSamsungCommunicator on your computer
2. On your TV make sure Menu->Network->SWL(Samsung Wireless Link) = On
3. Make sure your TV and laptop are both on your local network and then start the ruSamsungCommunicator. It will automatically try connect to your TV at which point you click accept using the TV remote.
4. Under the Fernbedienung tab is the remote you use to press info+factory and get into the special service mode

follow USB installation directions from there
post #169 of 1567
Ah! that makes sense now. Thanks Zoyd!

One more question, hopefully the last.
TV: PN59D6500
The files in TCON are they the same as what Samsung is sending out as 1014.6 on a USB?
After I am done updating, what will the SW version show?
post #170 of 1567
Thread Starter 
They are same logic board files. After doing this update you will have the same firmware version you currently have and you will have a new logic board software version, it will be 11-11-04
post #171 of 1567
It is becoming clear that 59 or 64D7000 models with an alpha suffix software version like T-MST5AUSC-1015.0, BT-G, will have to use the 64DS_ITOless_Deepblack.bin file. This will yield a result of:
Logic SW Version: 11-11-04
Logic SW CheckSum: 0xE09B

59 or 64D7000 models without an alpha suffix software version like T-MST5AUSC-1015.0, will have to use the 64DS_ITO_Deepblack.bin file. This will yield a result of:
Logic SW Version: 11-11-04
Logic SW CheckSum: 0x3796


EDIT: I'm waiting for more data to verify the above.

EDIT2: My WAG is wrong. Zoyd has a better explanation and has updated the first post. (WAG is an old technical process -- a Wild A$s Guess. )

Larry
post #172 of 1567
I just did the upgade on my PN51D7000 and here are the results:

Before upgrade - 11-02-08 0xE0F2

After upgrade - 11-10-31 0xB402

TV Firmware is version 1015.0
post #173 of 1567
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

It is becoming clear that 59 or 64D7000 models with an alpha suffix software version like T-MST5AUSC-1015.0, BT-G, will have to use the 64DS_ITOless_Deepblack.bin file. This will yield a result of:
Logic SW Version: 11-11-04
Logic SW CheckSum: 0xE09B

59 or 64D7000 models without an alpha suffix software version like T-MST5AUSC-1015.0, will have to use the 64DS_ITO_Deepblack.bin file. This will yield a result of:
Logic SW Version: 11-11-04
Logic SW CheckSum: 0x3796

Larry

I have a 59D7000 with the 1015.0 BT-G software & flashed the 59DS_ITO_Deepblack.bin file last night and it put me on

Logic SW Version: 11-11-04
Logic SW CheckSum: 0xE09B

So should I reflash using the 64DS_ITO_Deepblack.bin file?

I was wondering because even after the flash last night I was able to still see some pops they were just a little less prevalent than before.
post #174 of 1567
Jruc03,

I guess I'll have to wait for more data.

No, you don't have to flash again. But could you clarify which file that you used. Was it 64DS_ITO_Deepblack.bin or 64DS_ITOless_Deepblack.bin?

Larry
post #175 of 1567
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jruc03 View Post

I have a 59D7000 with the 1015.0 BT-G software & flashed the 59DS_ITO_Deepblack.bin file last night and it put me on

Logic SW Version: 11-11-04
Logic SW CheckSum: 0xE09B

So should I reflash using the 64DS_ITO_Deepblack.bin file?

I was wondering because even after the flash last night I was able to still see some pops they were just a little less prevalent than before.

I don't think the 64" file will flash on the 59" model. You have the latest code so there is nothing else to be done. Also note that the new firmware just removes luminance jumps (or "pops" if you like), there is still a rise in black level during bright scenes, it's now more gradual and should be less noticeable.
post #176 of 1567
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post

I don't think the 64" file will flash on the 59" model. You have the latest code so there is nothing else to be done. Also note that the new firmware just removes luminance jumps (or "pops" if you like), there is still a rise in black level during bright scenes, it's now more gradual and should be less noticeable.


Oh, my. I missed that.

Larry
post #177 of 1567
zoyd (or anyone else), any opinion on whether the D7000 is worth getting now or should someone like me wait a few months for the E7000?
post #178 of 1567
With it now being so close to April I would wait to see the reviews on the E7000 before buying the D7000. IMHO.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JMUdukes07 View Post

zoyd (or anyone else), any opinion on whether the D7000 is worth getting now or should someone like me wait a few months for the E7000?
post #179 of 1567
Thread Starter 
That's a tough question. I think there were major improvements in PQ in 2011 vs. 2010 and that you will not see the same delta this year. From what I've read I expect status quo in PQ with updates in apps/gadgets, (styling?) and if thats the case picking up a year-end D7000 would save quite a bit of money and probably have the same PQ, but of course that's a guess until the new stuff is released and tested.
post #180 of 1567
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

Jruc03,

I guess I'll have to wait for more data.

No, you don't have to flash again. But could you clarify which file that you used. Was it 64DS_ITO_Deepblack.bin or 64DS_ITOless_Deepblack.bin?

Larry

I used the 59DS_ITO_Deepblack.bin, I was correct in using that one right?

Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post

I don't think the 64" file will flash on the 59" model. You have the latest code so there is nothing else to be done. Also note that the new firmware just removes luminance jumps (or "pops" if you like), there is still a rise in black level during bright scenes, it's now more gradual and should be less noticeable.

Thats probably what i'm seeing I tested out Cowboys & Aliens which always popped a lot before and I only noticed one pop from the 30mins that I watched after I updated.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

Oh, my. I missed that.

Larry

No worries I think I flashed the correct one to begin with.
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