Samsung D series FBr fix discussion - Page 16

Ok thanks, and I also want to thank everyone for their dedication to this issue.

Sorry, jj

Forgot to mention there is always a chance the firmware will fail to perform the logic upgrade as well (presumably, Samsung is now trying to sort that out). You're not the first.

Anyway, no harm done. Zoyd's method always works, regardless of firmware version. But, do take your time to be sure you are comfortable with the procedure.

59D8000 here.

Just did the instructions in zoyd's post and everything went perfectly. Took less than 10 minutes total. Only boneheaded error I had was renaming the file "LOGIC.bin-" which, of course, doesn't make any sense. Using "LOGIC.bin" worked perfectly. The FW update did not hit my board.

FBr was extremely pronounced on mine, even during normal programming. After the test videos and tonight's episode of Top Chef I haven't noticed a single fluctuation.

Thanks zoyd et all for this! So happy now.

Yeah

No offense intended, but if you were reading this thread with any comprehension, you'd understand my comment - I was just adding a data point to a previous post.

Do you have a friend that's more comfortable with computers than yourself? You're scaring me a little, and although it would be hard to screw something up, you could scare/confuse/panic yourself doing it if you're actively uncomfortable messing with this sort of thing.

Remember, zoyd is an extreme hobbyist. We get the benefit of his generosity, expertise and adventuresomeness, but he's the kind of guy who will rip the back off his display, fry a board, replace it and keep moving.

Not sending out the roll back eh? that explains why i haven't received it.

So if a tech does come out, are they just going to do the logic board update like Zoyds?

After i did the logic board update i swore my picture was off even with the same settings. I turned bd wise off. The tv went into Standard mode. When i switched back to Movie my great picture was back. Wonder if you could try to toggle bd wise and see if that helps.

Just a small note, I'm in Australia and have the PS59D800FV. When I flashed the logic board it said "upgrading", instead of "updating".



I'll fill in the spreadsheet after some viewing. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this fix, it's been a thorn in my side for a while now.

Seems like the usb from Samsung gives the "optimizing" message. The zoyd logic board update gives the "upgrading" message.

I wonder why rolling back the firmware is necessary? Or whether they will issue a general release in the future.

Thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately, I had this problem way before updating the logic board. I don't use BD wise either, so seems it's more fundamental. Samsung replaced my main board (not the logic board) to resolve a problem I was having where the TV would turn itself on randomly. I've been through the service menu (with the help of Larry) and it seems the default values for ACD/WB are no help. ADC calibration was also no help, so apparently my only recourse is to attempt to drop red gain in the SM. It's very odd, and I fear something another service call is not going to remedy.

I used the Samsung firmware, it says "Optimizing" if your logic board receives the update.


Yeah, this is a very interesting question.

Your right. Optimizing is the correct term. Ill edit my post.

I would be interested in the result. My 59d8000 was replaced due to the peeling issue. Originally I had the very dark rbf, but on the new panel it is noticably less so. To contradict your theory though, I flashed the 59DS_ITO_DeepBlack variant.

I'm getting ready to update the timing board because the 1019.5 firmware didn't "optimize" on my PN64D550. Reading through the instructions are the steps:

12. Navigate to SVC and select it
13. Navigate to Logic USB D/L and select it
14. Right arrow to initiate flash (no turning back here)

Are these done through the emulator on your computer or using the TV Remote Control?

So much for that theory. Or maybe it's the opposite? (ITOless = pre-august?) Worth a thought I guess

Emulator.

Once you get through a few pop-up menus that are in German it's pretty easy and every step once you connect to the TV with the emulator is done using the emulator "remote" buttons.

This whole ITO vs ITOless thing is disconcerting. I had a 59D7000 that was an October 2011 build first, but I upgraded to the 64 and ended up with a July 2011 build.

I noticed immediately the blacks seemed blacker on the 64 compared to the 59, but I attributed it to the panel size and differences there. I was not aware they changed the RBF. I think the 64 has worse uniformity and more line bleed than the 59, but I can't confidently say I'm just more OCD about the 64.

I did those with the tv remote. I quess it doesn't really matter which one you use as the menu is navigable with either.
The emulator is needed to enable that special service menu clicking the info + factory buttons. If you go to service menu without the emulator method, using just the tv remote ( mute, 737, enter) you won't get the option to update the logic board fw.

My Nov-2011 build PN59D6500 took ITOLess

If I roll back the firmware and the logic board updates correctly, will I be able to install updated firmware after that?

As an example for my PN51D7000, I have 1015.0 installed, roll back to 1014.6, logic board updates, then can I re-install 1015?

Is the answer different using USBs from Samsung versus Zoyd's method?

Thanks,

-tom

Tom,

There is no way yet to roll back the FW for the D7000. And it doesn't matter since the logic board update can be done for any FW version. The two are independent.

Larry

Forgive me if this has been discussed but can someone tell me if this is normal?

I haven't noticed any brightness fluctuations on movies or anything since updating the firmware last weekend. However, when watching hockey on my TV I can still see slight brightness fluctuations on the ice. Is this different than the brightness fluctuations in the logic board fix or should this have been corrected?

Per the original post:

This firmware will not affect the brightness limiter. Whites will continue to dim when overall picture level increases past a certain point so do not report this as FBr.

Also: (Hockey flashes are not FBr!)

Thanks,
Jason

Lol I thought I had read that somewhere.

Didn't realize it would be so obvious. I apologize for the dumb question.

Does anyone know if the Panasonics exhibit this brightness limiter effect in the same way? I doubt I'll return it just for that reason but I was just curious.

I don't think the new RBF makes the black level worse. It's just that the characteristic of the reflection is more prismatic on the new one and makes it more distracting if you have direct light reflecting off of it. Blacks seem the same to me when there's not a light bulb shining behind me.

But I may have steered OT with that. I don't think the change in RBF has anything to do with what .bin to use. Just hoping to find an easier way for people to tell which one to use. Also just curious.

So I did the update on both mine and my Fathers

Both of us have 64D7000. The Panel version / Type were the same (DS/D5) as well as the Logic SW and CheckSum.
11-06-07
0x2E12

After the update the Logic SW/CheckSum were also the same
11-11-04
0x3796

Both took 64DS_ITO_Deepblack

Only difference between the two is July vs August and the different RBF. So go figure. Seems it's random.

Both have had great results. I've watched material that I knew exhibited pops and there were none. My Father watches a lot of old B&W westerns in 4:3. He always bitched about the pops. He says he hasn't seen one all day when normally he'd see dozens.

So we'd both like to thank Zoyd and Larry for this great work. It's helping a lot of people.

I'm getting a lot of flickering when I watch basketball on my 59PND8000. At first I thought it was the flash from photographers, but it is too prevavlent to be just that--it occurs regularly at wide angle coming up and down the floor. Can I adjust this out? Will the 1024.8 firmware, which is on its way from Samsung, be expected to rectify this problem?

Thanks guys.

^^
What you are seeing is the reflection on the floor from the advertising (flashing/pulsing) lights that are on the balcony level and surround the court. There is nothing wrong with your TV.

Larry

Thanks, Larry. That would explain why it is worse in some arenas. Is the brightness fluctuation during hockey games caused by the same thing? Hockey is virutally unwatchable on this tv--fortunately, I'm not a huge hockey viewer, and I can fall back on my lcd come Stanley Cup time.

^^
Yes, the "pops" during hockey games are caused by the same thing. You see the same thing even when the camera is showing two players fighting for the puck against the wall with no ice in the frame, the fans in their seats, a player in the penalty box, or the owner in his viewing box.

Larry

tv - PS51D600DS - samsung.com/ua/consumer/tv-home-entertainment/tv/plasma-tv/PS51D6900DSXUA/index.idx?pagetype=prd_detail&tab=specification
I used a file 51DS_DeepBlack.bin (renamed it and placed it to -> g:\\PDP_LOGIC\\LOGIC.bin)
my SM - see attachment
sticked in USB 1 (HDD)
on step 15 - Fialed. all the time.