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Samsung D series FBr fix discussion - Page 33

post #961 of 1596
Ok so no idea what has happened with my pn64d7000. I downloaded the update to a usb stick and put it in. The tv detected the update and said it was going to start. After awhile it just said failed and that was all. I'm on 1008.

Now, if I put the USB stick in, it always tells me there are no updates available, even if I check for network updates. Logic fw is 11-02-22. I tried switching to the other USB slot and also reformatting and redownloading the fw to the USB stick.
post #962 of 1596
We need some specifics in order to help you.

What did you download and where did you download it?

What is the full software version that appears in the [Menu > Support > Contact Samsung] page?


Larry
post #963 of 1596
I downloaded the 1014 FW version from page 1. I just got it to work. I tried a different USB stick and it seemed to do the trick. I now show FW 1014 in the menu, but it looks like my logic board didn't update. Unfortunately, I only have a mac, so I'm not going to be able to use the emulator and upgrade the logic board version.
post #964 of 1596
Larry,
Thank you I bought a 3 year warranty with "FRYS" and will get a call back Monday to schedule a tech to come out.
post #965 of 1596
Gares,

The TV doesn't seem to like large capacity sticks. The updates work best with the 256 or 512 MB sticks.

I can't help you out with using the remote emulator on the Mac but I'm sure that zoyd can. He'll catch up with us soon, I'm sure.

Larry
post #966 of 1596
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI View Post

Gares,

The TV doesn't seem to like large capacity sticks. The updates work best with the 256 or 512 MB sticks.

I can't help you out with using the remote emulator on the Mac but I'm sure that zoyd can. He'll catch up with us soon, I'm sure.

Larry

Funny you say that, the stick I was using was 16GB. I found an old 512MB stick and that was what worked.

I managed to get the emulator to work using Wine on the Mac. Looks like it updated correctly. Now just to test and see if it fixed the pops!

Thanks for the help.
post #967 of 1596
Quote:
Originally Posted by themagic View Post

Larry,
Thank you I bought a 3 year warranty with "FRYS" and will get a call back Monday to schedule a tech to come out.


Glad to help. Keep us informed. The fault occurrence probably was a coincidence and has nothing to do with the logic update. Just tell the tech that the video stopped working.

Larry
post #968 of 1596
Prior to updating Logic this was my info below don't know if this would be any help let me know thanks:

Running 1015
59FHD
DS
LOGIC ID A822
LOGIC SW VERSION: 11-02-11
LOGIC CHECKSUM 0XFE92
post #969 of 1596
Do you guys still get slight pops? I thought they've been gone, but I definitely still see some, albeit more subtle. But they are definitely still "pops", and not the gradual changes that zoyd said would continue.

My usb update took correctly, showing calibration and confirmed through version numbers.

Ive wondered if it's my HTPC and/or ATI 6950. But ive disabled all GPU processing, including Dynamic Contrast.

Any ideas? It almost seems like the pops have been "creeping" back in and more apparent, too.

EDIT: It appears to not be a problem when using VLC as the player (compared with MPC-HD). I guess this would suggest that it's some type of software/filter? I know VLC also uses its own internal codecs and bypasses the video card, so I'm not sure if this is coming from the gpu driver or MPC filters/settings. Ive disabled all manner of dynamic contrasts, filters, settings, etc that would be contributing to pops. Any ideas?

(Happens with both MadVR renderer and EVR Custom)
post #970 of 1596
Thread Starter 
The timing board change adjusted the time constant of the fluctuations and I did not measure that time constant but if I had to guess I'd say it was a factor of 2. Also, the darker your black level (and especially if you watch in a very dark room) the more you will notice the black fluctuations. So I think the "creeping" you mention is probably your eyes adjusting to the new behavior and now it's easier for you to pick it out again (I know that happened to me).
post #971 of 1596
Quote:
Originally Posted by coldblackice View Post

Do you guys still get slight pops? I thought they've been gone, but I definitely still see some, albeit more subtle. But they are definitely still "pops", and not the gradual changes that zoyd said would continue.

My usb update took correctly, showing calibration and confirmed through version numbers.

Ive wondered if it's my HTPC and/or ATI 6950. But ive disabled all GPU processing, including Dynamic Contrast.

Any ideas? It almost seems like the pops have been "creeping" back in and more apparent, too.

Definitely. I still see brightness fluctuations. And honestly they still drive me a bit crazy. But it's dramatically better than it was.
post #972 of 1596
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post

The timing board change adjusted the time constant of the fluctuations and I did not measure that time constant but if I had to guess I'd say it was a factor of 2. Also, the darker your black level (and especially if you watch in a very dark room) the more you will notice the black fluctuations. So I think the "creeping" you mention is probably your eyes adjusting to the new behavior and now it's easier for you to pick it out again (I know that happened to me).

Quote:
Originally Posted by pitviper33 View Post

Definitely. I still see brightness fluctuations. And honestly they still drive me a bit crazy. But it's dramatically better than it was.

Ahh, good to know. That may explain my new findings:

I tried tinkering around in the TV (59D6500) settings, experimenting with different modes and variations in cell/contrast/brightness. One variation was boosting solely brightness from 50 up to 60. Result? Completely gone!

Well, at least the handful of pops that I was repeatedy tracking in the first few minutes of Lord of the Rings from my HTPC. Havent tried other sources/movies, but I can definitely confirm that the few I was repeatedly tracking are gone. If this holds for all mini-pops, I think I can live with slightly less inky blacks in exhange for no more of those heaven-forsaken pops!

I suppose this goes along with what you posted above, zoyd?

Also, does the light sensor on the TV have any effect on the popping? Or is it merely internal to the eye -- that one will purely be more apt to see pops in a completely dark room (and with no variation or assistance from the TV's light sensor). Ive disabled all eco/dynamic garbage, but if the TV is still using it in regards to pops, I wonder if covering it altogether with electrical tape will stop variations?

Thanks guys

(And great to know Im not alone, pitviper. Thanks Makes it a little less painful/aggravating haha)


EDIT:

I've found the exact threshold (for my TV) -- +6 on brightness rids the mini-pops completely (in Lord of Rings repeated spots Ive been watching). If I move it down just ONE notch to 55, the pops are back, and even more "schizophrenic" in rapid flashing, faster, but less extreme pops, almost like it's teetering more because of being so close to the threshold.

Anyway, as for now, Ill leave my brightness +6 (at 56) and keep an eye out for pops. Hopefully this will rid my mini-pops! Although I suspect it's coorelated to the source's levels, and while the pops are cured on this scene at 56, other scenes with more dynamic range wont be cured. I fear it may just be something I have to suck down and live with.

If so, at least Zoyd's valiant, savior-like efforts and teachings have made the problem so VERY much better and much more bearable than before!
post #973 of 1596
EDIT:

I've found the exact threshold (for my TV) -- +6 on brightness rids the mini-pops completely (in Lord of Rings repeated spots Ive been watching). If I move it down just ONE notch to 55, the pops are back, and even more "schizophrenic" in rapid flashing, faster, but less extreme pops, almost like it's teetering more because of being so close to the threshold.

Anyway, as for now, Ill leave my brightness +6 (at 56) and keep an eye out for pops. Hopefully this will rid my mini-pops! Although I suspect it's coorelated to the source's levels, and while the pops are cured on this scene at 56, other scenes with more dynamic range wont be cured. I fear it may just be something I have to suck down and live with.

Hello, I don't think that is the best way to go about "illiminating" your brightness pops, by increasing your brightness you could be increasing your black level too much , ei, on the avs hd 709 disk black clipping pattern, 16 refrence black might be visible now, which is not the correct setting for brightness, you should try the logic board update....I am not sure if you have done the logic board update. I have a pn51d6500 and the logic update worked. I don't notice the pops. Whether now they are smaller or minin perhaps it's the case but I haven't seen them , and i am also not looking for it anymore. Nothing is perfect even the brightness pops fix done by logic board update
post #974 of 1596
Hey guys, new member here. Bought a 64D7000 from Amazon (Pauls TV) about 2 weeks ago but updated to 1015 before digging deep into all of this. I have a Jan 2012 build and definitely notice the FBr. I'm going to try the manual logic board update soon, but I have been wondering . . . is there something specific keeping some of you from going with a Panasonic (assuming you are within warranty and can do an exchange)? If the logic board update doesn't clear it up enough for me to stop looking for the fluctuations, I've contemplated returning for a 2012 ST Panasonic. Is there a negative trade off by going with one of those?

Great informative thread though, I hope this fix clears it up enough for me to stop obsessing over this because the picture is amazing otherwise.

- Will
post #975 of 1596
Quote:
Originally Posted by hungro View Post

EDIT:

I've found the exact threshold (for my TV) -- +6 on brightness rids the mini-pops completely (in Lord of Rings repeated spots Ive been watching). If I move it down just ONE notch to 55, the pops are back, and even more "schizophrenic" in rapid flashing, faster, but less extreme pops, almost like it's teetering more because of being so close to the threshold.

Anyway, as for now, Ill leave my brightness +6 (at 56) and keep an eye out for pops. Hopefully this will rid my mini-pops! Although I suspect it's coorelated to the source's levels, and while the pops are cured on this scene at 56, other scenes with more dynamic range wont be cured. I fear it may just be something I have to suck down and live with.

Hello, I don't think that is the best way to go about "illiminating" your brightness pops, by increasing your brightness you could be increasing your black level too much , ei, on the avs hd 709 disk black clipping pattern, 16 refrence black might be visible now, which is not the correct setting for brightness, you should try the logic board update....I am not sure if you have done the logic board update. I have a pn51d6500 and the logic update worked. I don't notice the pops. Whether now they are smaller or minin perhaps it's the case but I haven't seen them , and i am also not looking for it anymore. Nothing is perfect even the brightness pops fix done by logic board update

I did the logic board update the first week after Zoyd posted this, thanks. And it definitely helped (enormously). But as I'm sure is the case with your TV, even though you probably cant see them... the pops are still there, albeit slighter and more faint.

If I can sacrifice a bit of black level for no more pops, I'll take that any day. I'd rather have someone give me one big slap to the face at the beginning of movie and then leave me alone, instead of someone flicking my ear every 15-20 seconds randomly throughout the movie That's an analogy, of course

Black level is easy to adjust to and forget (for me); pops are just skiddish enough that they never fall below the mind's threshold of stimulus adjustment.
post #976 of 1596
I installed the fix via firmware 1014.6 for my D7000 months ago and still get pops in certain material, it's been documented numerous times in this thread.

There seem to be a few ways to reduce or eliminate these residual pops - one is to comprimise on blacks by using higher brightness (not really optimal) or better yet, by calibrating to a lower gamma (increasing the gamma setting by 1, then rechecking your brightness settings with a test disc). Another is to comprimise on peak output by reducing the cell setting - which I feel is the best option for watching films in a dark room (where you really don't need all that brightness).

Quote:
Originally Posted by wacompton View Post

Hey guys, new member here. Bought a 64D7000 from Amazon (Pauls TV) about 2 weeks ago but updated to 1015 before digging deep into all of this. I have a Jan 2012 build and definitely notice the FBr. I'm going to try the manual logic board update soon, but I have been wondering . . . is there something specific keeping some of you from going with a Panasonic (assuming you are within warranty and can do an exchange)? If the logic board update doesn't clear it up enough for me to stop looking for the fluctuations, I've contemplated returning for a 2012 ST Panasonic. Is there a negative trade off by going with one of those?

Many people did not have a serious enough pop issue to be that bothered I think, and I'm sure most of us are outside our return/exchange window. The 2012 Panasonics are looking pretty strong, so no reason not to consider them (especially once the pro reviews are out).
post #977 of 1596
Quote:
Originally Posted by AvidHiker View Post

Many people did not have a serious enough pop issue to be that bothered I think, and I'm sure most of us are outside our return/exchange window. The 2012 Panasonics are looking pretty strong, so no reason not to consider them (especially once the pro reviews are out).

Thanks for the response AH. Mine are just annoying enough that I now obsess over them and can't just watch and enjoy the programming/movie. Granted, I haven't applied the manual lb update yet, so that may alleviate some of it. I upgraded from a nearly 11 year old Toshiba big screen so the change in PQ was astonishing. That's why I don't want to have to return it to Amazon, because the 65 inch Panasonics aren't out yet and I am spoiled with the new (to me) viewing experience. Not sure I can go without now!

First world problems I s'pose.
post #978 of 1596
Now if we can just see if the E series uses the same logic board, and upgrade to its firmware maybe we can have another improvement?
post #979 of 1596
Quote:
Originally Posted by AvidHiker View Post

I installed the fix via firmware 1014.6 for my D7000 months ago and still get pops in certain material, it's been documented numerous times in this thread.

There seem to be a few ways to reduce or eliminate these residual pops - one is to comprimise on blacks by using higher brightness (not really optimal) or better yet, by calibrating to a lower gamma (increasing the gamma setting by 1, then rechecking your brightness settings with a test disc). Another is to comprimise on peak output by reducing the cell setting - which I feel is the best option for watching films in a dark room (where you really don't need all that brightness).



Many people did not have a serious enough pop issue to be that bothered I think, and I'm sure most of us are outside our return/exchange window. The 2012 Panasonics are looking pretty strong, so no reason not to consider them (especially once the pro reviews are out).

Great info, thanks!


Quote:
Originally Posted by David_B View Post

Now if we can just see if the E series uses the same logic board, and upgrade to its firmware maybe we can have another improvement?

I didnt even know the E series was out yet and selling. Do you have one? And is the blasted popping a problem on them, too?!
post #980 of 1596
Tech order new x and y board for my p59d6500 plasma.
After I told him on the phone that I have NO video on any Inputs just Audio he determined that I needed x and y main board replace.
soon it arrives from Samsung he will schedule an appointment.
Hopefully that is it.
post #981 of 1596
Thread Starter 
hmm...the service manual states that if sound but no video is present to check in the following order:

1. Proper led operation on logic board - if abnormal replace logic board
2. check lvds cable and replace/reattach if problem
3. check voltage output of power supply board and replace if incorrect
4. If 1. 2. and 3. are ok, replace the mainboard.

In another section it does say that if there is a "blank screen" to replace y-main board so the manual itself is not consistent but I hope he checks your logic board - it has a flashing green led at about once per second if it is normal.
post #982 of 1596
I just placed a call with Samsung support to see if they are sending out usb sticks. Because I'm calling from work and not home we couldn't troubleshoot, but the rep told me that once I get home they would attempt to troubleshoot over the phone/online via the TV. If that didn't solve my brightness pops issue (which we all know that it won't) then they would send me a usb stick. I informed him that I had already updated to 1015 and asked if they would send out 1014.6 with the rollback as well. He stated that the usb would contain firmware "higher than 1015" and that it would "resolve my issue."

Take that for what it's worth. I will call back tonight and see if I get the same story from a different rep.
post #983 of 1596
I would like to hear what you get from a second rep tonight. I won't be surprised if it's something different. I'm so fed up with this issue with my D7000 that I'm just about ready to trade this in to Best Buy with their buy-back program and get a Panasonic. I've been following the threads for the 2012 models and obviously Samsung isn't interested in fixing this issue. Otherwise, they would just issue a public firmware update on their site with the fix.
post #984 of 1596
I applied the ZOYD fix a few weeks back all is well. But now, I noticed something I've never seen before.

While watching BUCK PRIVATES on BLURAY during several instances where there are extended fade out/fade ins - screen goes black - the Plasma screen's brightness fluctuates down then back up and then as the fade in begins it corrects itself. The problem is duplicatable but only during these fade in/fade outs. If I go frame by frame. You don't see it.

The display acts like it's trying to adjust brightness even though I've got all the autoe/eco settings to OFF.

So I played with with settings. If I turn EDGE ENHANCEMENT OFF - the problem nearly goes away - only a brief flicker compared to the 5 or 6 that happen normally.

Then, I completely fixed the problem when I changed my brightness setting from 40 to 45. If it's at 45 - works perfectly. As soon as I lower it to 40 the problem reappears.

Anyone have any thoughts about this? Seems like it is definitely a brightness setting issue with lower numbers. Cinema Smooth is on and does not have any effect on this. Contrast is 90. Brightness is 45.
post #985 of 1596
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by hamiltonpl View Post

Then, I completely fixed the problem when I changed my brightness setting from 40 to 45. If it's at 45 - works perfectly. As soon as I lower it to 40 the problem reappears.

Anyone have any thoughts about this? Seems like it is definitely a brightness setting issue with lower numbers. Cinema Smooth is on and does not have any effect on this. Contrast is 90. Brightness is 45.

If your brightness is set too low (~43 for me) the panel will turn completely off during a full black scene. You should set brightness with a test disk or approximate it by looking at black bars in 2.35 material, turn brightness up just until you see some green dithering and then lower by 2 clicks.
post #986 of 1596
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post

If your brightness is set too low (~43 for me) the panel will turn completely off during a full black scene. You should set brightness with a test disk or approximate it by looking at black bars in 2.35 material, turn brightness up just until you see some green dithering and then lower by 2 clicks.

Thanks. Yes it seemed to be turning itself off - or trying to. I appreciate the feedback.
post #987 of 1596
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post

If your brightness is set too low (~43 for me) the panel will turn completely off during a full black scene. You should set brightness with a test disk or approximate it by looking at black bars in 2.35 material, turn brightness up just until you see some green dithering and then lower by 2 clicks.

I've noticed this on all the Sammy plasma's I've owned and also on the Panny G25. I was getting frustrated until I realized that this was a result of me having the brightness too low for proper viewing.
post #988 of 1596
hey all - I know this isn't the place to discuss Digital Noise so I started a new thread. I'm hoping to get some of the great minds in this thread to give some feedback. I'm sure this topic is a slam dunk for most of you but I'm still curious what you think. I don't think it's so "black and white" but I could be wrong. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post21930806


Any input is greatly appreciated!
post #989 of 1596
zyod, this all happen right after a successful upgrade, tv rebooted and afterward NO video just audio on any inputs.
Being that it was during upgrading logic board won't that be the problem?
Understand what you said about service manual.
I told the tech on the phone my tv symtoms and did the reset procedures NO luck he determined with Samsung that it's the x and y board.
Hopefully that is it.
post #990 of 1596
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by themagic View Post

zyod, this all happen right after a successful upgrade, tv rebooted and afterward NO video just audio on any inputs.
Being that it was during upgrading logic board won't that be the problem?
Understand what you said about service manual.
I told the tech on the phone my tv symtoms and did the reset procedures NO luck he determined with Samsung that it's the x and y board.
Hopefully that is it.

yes, given the sequence of events it's probably the logic board. If they replace the other boards and it still doesn't work they will move onto the logic and main board so it might take two trips.
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