Originally Posted by ataribravo
The assumptions are correct, no subwoofer (yet!). I will be changing my front mains to "small" and now feel bad for them and my receiver because I have had them set to "large" for 3-4 movies now. Where does it (or should it) say that "large" is for speakers that can handle down to 20Hz? I don't doubt that that is the case, but you would think that would/should be in CAPS in the manual, but I couldn't find it. They only used the terminology "full range". Thanks for all the information to all who posted!
Yes, this was a terrible mistake by manufacturers. I wonder how many of them are correcting this as suggested above with "Full Range" as the label?
Originally Posted by Remonster
"Small" sends any bass below the crossover to your subwoofer...if you don't have a sub, you have to run your mains full range. By the way, you should set "Subwoofer" to "No" in your receiver, if it's set that way it shouldn't even give you the option to set the speakers to "small" or "large."
As far as the discussion above goes, I prefer running my towers as "large" even though they roll off below 35Hz. I'd rather lose that bass than deal with a crossover to my sub because I can not seem to get my HSU dialed in perfectly no matter what I've tried. I have the rears cut off at 80Hz and the sub handles that plus LFE but my fronts are full range (no center in my system).
Having a sub, is the LFE channel at least going there?
Getting bass right is hard!
With Audessey XT 32 at least the receiver has a chance of EQing the sub and other channels. Without that, you're left with buying some other auto correction device, or hope your room only has one peak that some subs' built-in parametric EQ can tame.
And still, you have:
- position front three speakers where you don't sacrifice imaging but still might yield a smoother response
- position the sub for smoothest response
- position listening positions for smoothest response
- choose a crossover to minimize localization, and also get smoothest response (many people even choose 100hz, not because their speakers can't handle bass, but because the bass going to the sub can be positioned for fewer peaks and nulls)
- purchase a second sub to help even out response, like one in front and one in back (per Floyd Toole et al research)
- nail the phase / distance for smoothest response for two subs
- Bass traps in corners
- Maybe more bass traps
Most of this is pretty hard to do without something like Real-EQ Wizard!
Originally Posted by Remonster
(no center in my system).
I've always said that a phantom center can work for those who just listen alone in the center. For off-axis listeners, the sound stage will collapse to the closest front speaker.
But in re-reading Toole's book last night, I read where he really recommends against going phantom also because when the same sounds are correlated in both front speakers, they will either interfere with each other constructively or destructively, and make for a strange response.
Speaking of center speakers (not specifically about you, Remonster) I see so many people stuck in two channel thinking but in a multi-channel setup. They buy big front left and right speakers, and they don't pay much attention to the center. Since the center and sub are the two most important speakers for home theater, they've created a weak-link in the entire system, where they can't turn up the master volume up any higher than the center can handle before it gets harsh.
eg: If the fronts deserve 12" woofers so that you can play loud without distortion, why doesn't the center?
When I was playing with the BFD trying to EQ the sub and main channels (I have the crappy old MCACC that only has 5 bands) yesterday, I had the center connected and the front pair disconnected. I was playing an action movie and a LOT of the soundtrack was in the center. Gun shots, explosions, voices, music.
That suggests to me if any speaker needs to be beefier than others, it's the center (after the sub, of course).