or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › THT Build
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

THT Build - Page 2

post #31 of 155
There used to be a thread on driver break-in around here somewhere. I ran looped low freq sounds through mine for several hours to loosen up the surround. I screwed the driver down to a couple of 2x2's and placed it on an empty box, free air. Is it really necessary? Its probably debateable.
post #32 of 155
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the reply. I read up on breaking in drivers and started to break mine in yesterday. I wonder if it's necessary to screw it into something rigid during break in for support or if I can just prop it up on the magnet and let it move some air. Anyway, I didn't finish the sub but made some headway. I'm hoping to finish this weekend time permitting....



post #33 of 155
Coming along nicely. You're on the home stretch now!


dbl
post #34 of 155
That looks really great! I'm excited to start building my, hopefully soon. I was wondering if caulk could be used along the joins to help seal all the edges? Also, did you use the instructions from Bill Fitzmaurice?
post #35 of 155
Quote:
Originally Posted by anikun07 View Post

That looks really great! I'm excited to start building my, hopefully soon. I was wondering if caulk could be used along the joins to help seal all the edges? Also, did you use the instructions from Bill Fitzmaurice?

This is what you'll want to use.


dbl
post #36 of 155
Thread Starter 
So far I've used about a tube and a half of PL that dbl listed above. I bought three tubes and I would guess that I'll have a little left over but should be close.

I'm using the plans that I bought off of Bill's site at http://billfitzmaurice.net/THT.html. The plans come with a google sketchup 3D file which is pretty cool and lets you see how each piece will fit together. I played around with it a little bit but found some of the other build threads on AVS to be just as helpful during the building process.
post #37 of 155
Fantastic, I will be ordering from him this week. I kind of figured he 3D would be Google sketch up. I'm wo excited to get started on this. I don't have all the tools I see in your pictures, but I think I can handle this project with what I have. I will be getting a new tablesaw with my tax return. The 50's 8" craftsman I have can't rip straight and I can't afford a new 8" blade. I've only only seen really expensive forrest blade online. Anyway a full contractor size table will help. I will use your method with a pneumatic nailer though, I have a finishing nailer that works well for holding pieces in place. In fact I used it for my main speaker stands (Monitor 40s). Thanks for your guide I'm sure it will help me as I work on mine.
post #38 of 155
Almost there! Brings back memories of warped Auraco ply and of PL everywhere.
post #39 of 155
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobG5589 View Post

Almost there! Brings back memories of warped Auraco ply and of PL everywhere.

Wearing a T shirt with some PL stains that will never leave - ah memories.
post #40 of 155
Thread Starter 
Well I've been breaking in the driver all day with sweeps from 10-99hz. I have to say it's really quiet. I hope/know it will be a ton louder in the cab but it's hard to imagine that it has that big an impact on the overall performance of the sub.
post #41 of 155
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyneric View Post

Well I've been breaking in the driver all day with sweeps from 10-99hz. I have to say it's really quiet. I hope/know it will be a ton louder in the cab but it's hard to imagine that it has that big an impact on the overall performance of the sub.

Haha, I hope so. If you are pushing it hard enough to make a bunch of noise you're gonna have problems

You are just "loosening" the surround, not trying to produce bass.

The cab is where the magic happens
post #42 of 155
Thread Starter 
Hopefully the surround should be sufficiently loosened. I put panels 9 and 10 on the sub this weekend and am planning on closing things up during the week. The THT should be sealed, dried, and ready for a test run this weekend.
post #43 of 155
Thread Starter 
My SA240 sub amp broke and Parts-Express gave me full credit for the purchase price towards an EP4000 so I took the bait. I know the EP4000 is too much juice for the THT but may come in handy for future builds. In order to prevent destroying my driver, should I use a multimeter on the wires going to the THT to make sure I'm not sending too much voltage then just leave the gain on the amp alone?

I will also be doing a fan mod on the EP4000 that I will document here. I bought a new 80mm fan from Digikey today and it should be here soon with my RCA to XLR adapter. Is there a better option for going from rca to xlr than an adapter? My 3808CI doesn't have XLR pre-out and I'm looking for a temporary solution before I get a receiver with XLR connections.

As far as tuba progress goes, I will hopefully be finishing this weekend but tax season has been kicking my butt so who knows...
post #44 of 155
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyneric View Post

My 3808CI doesn't have XLR pre-out and I'm looking for a temporary solution before I get a receiver with XLR connections.

Here you go: http://www.monoprice.com/products/su...=10244#1024404
post #45 of 155
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by thaddeussmith View Post

Here you go: http://www.monoprice.com/products/su...=10244#1024404

Bah! I knew I should have looked at monoprice first... The adapter I bought ended up being the same price. Oh well I guess I'll snag one of these cables too. One can never have too many adapters etc. in the A/V box
post #46 of 155
Thread Starter 
Everything is all closed up and drying! That brad nailer really went a long way this build. I couldn't imagine building this without one.





As far as testing for leaks, is there any magical technique that works best or should I just stick my head in the access hole when a 20hz tone is playing?
post #47 of 155
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyneric View Post


As far as testing for leaks, is there any magical technique that works best

The one in the plans.
post #48 of 155
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyneric View Post

Bah! I knew I should have looked at monoprice first... The adapter I bought ended up being the same price. Oh well I guess I'll snag one of these cables too. One can never have too many adapters etc. in the A/V box

Be wary, and use your adapter before that cable. Ive had three that didnt work straight for monoprice...I try to warn people and get them to order elsewhere, but it seems at least as of late that Mono has fixed their QC issues. Just dont be afraid/pissed/throw the THT out the window if you try that cord first off and NOTHING works. I only say this because if I could have beasted the f-20 cabinet myself, I would have thrown it off my deck (not really, but it WAS frustrating)
post #49 of 155
Thread Starter 
Roger that. Easy enough...

The EP4000 mod went smoothly as expected. It's a simple splice job then clean things up with some electrical tape and you're in business.





I was absolutely stunned how much more quiet the EP4000 was after the mod. When I turned it on I couldn't even hear the faintest noise. At first I thought I may have had a wire come loose inside, then realized it was unplugged...

After plugging it in and firing it up I could hear the fan with my ear right next to it but I can't hear it from my seating position. Overall I couldn't be happier with the new fan.
post #50 of 155
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Be wary, and use your adapter before that cable. Ive had three that didnt work straight for monoprice...I try to warn people and get them to order elsewhere, but it seems at least as of late that Mono has fixed their QC issues. Just dont be afraid/pissed/throw the THT out the window if you try that cord first off and NOTHING works. I only say this because if I could have beasted the f-20 cabinet myself, I would have thrown it off my deck (not really, but it WAS frustrating)

I read your post in another thread about your monoprice cable woes after I bought this one. It seems like their QC is back on track because the cable I got works perfectly and the adapter does not (probably a balanced/unbalanced issue - I dunno). After using this XLR cable from monoprice I wouldn't hesitate to buy another.
post #51 of 155
Your pictures of your build look great. It looks like everything pieced together well. I just started seating the final edges and braces. I'm hoping tomorrow I can have it glued up. My edges didn't line up perfect so I need some final adjustments to get the last pairs of braces lined up.
post #52 of 155
Awesome! Bust out all your booming DVD's and get ready to rumble
post #53 of 155
Anikun, I cut my outer panel slightly oversized and used a flush cut router bit to trim it perfectly. My woodworking skills are far less than great. Just an option if you have not yet made the cut.
post #54 of 155
+1 on the above. I also use 1/8" roll pins for registration.

JSS
post #55 of 155
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobG5589 View Post

Anikun, I cut my outer panel slightly oversized and used a flush cut router bit to trim it perfectly. My woodworking skills are far less than great. Just an option if you have not yet made the cut.

Hehe, thanks for the tip, I will remember it for future projects but I already cut put the two sides first. Of course the second ended up being marginally smaller, but I will make it work. Thanks for the write up, it looks great!
post #56 of 155
I've gotta ask..I'm breaking in my DVC-385-88 (I think that's the right number) and I've got my multimeter but I don't know how to use it properly. I noticed that V-DC doesn't do much, but I get a reading with V-AC, so I know I need to use VAC settings. It's an analog meter and my V-AC settings are 10, 50, 250, and 500. To run the sub at 20 Hz at 10 volts, can someone tell me where my multimeter should be at?

By the way, I'm really excited, I glued my final panel on tonight. All that's left is the side and the access panel cover. I'm running the sub off my Yamaha V667 center channel set to large, the fronts unplugged, and the rears disabled. I'm excited to join the BFM THT club. :-)
post #57 of 155
Thread Starter 
I just bought a multimeter too and have been breaking in at around 10V with a 20-30hz sweep. As far as settings go, I'm not sure as I don't have my meter in front of me.

I can't wait either. I have the tuba finished with the driver installed sitting in my garage. The access panel is finished and needs to be screwed in once I test for leaks. I finished with everything after work around 10:30 last night but my wife was asleep. She's letting me keep the behemoth in the family room (at least until she sees how gigantic it is) until we finish the theater in the basement so I decided not to push my luck and fire it up for a test run. I'll have to fire it up tonight though and post impressions. CAN'T WAIT!

Speaking of firing it up, when I'm playing stuff with really low content like WOTW etc that gets down to single digit frequencies should I taper back the power I'm sending to the sub? I'd hate to bottom it out and damage it. Is a HPF necessary or should I just let'er rip?
post #58 of 155
Audio tones and sine waves are all AC. Set the meter to VAC.
post #59 of 155
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsloms View Post

Audio tones and sine waves are all AC. Set the meter to VAC.

I have it set to VAC, but I wasn't sure which range to set it to. I assume 10v, and now that I've thought about it a little more, each number for that range is an equal interval of the range setting. So if I set it to 50v ac, then if I get a reading of 1v I would have 5v of electricity. Is this the proper way to use it?
post #60 of 155
Quote:
Originally Posted by anikun07 View Post

I have it set to VAC, but I wasn't sure which range to set it to. I assume 10v, and now that I've thought about it a little more, each number for that range is an equal interval of the range setting. So if I set it to 50v ac, then if I get a reading of 1v I would have 5v of electricity. Is this the proper way to use it?

That would be correct. Depending on what range the meter is set to uses a multiplier to get the correct reading. As you said on the 50V range use a multiplier of 5 to get the correct reading.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: DIY Speakers and Subs
AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › DIY Speakers and Subs › THT Build