Viewsonic Pro8200 Calibrations - Page 2

Yah, a new lamp has far more RED on it than my lamp does, my LAMP has tinted more towards blue and lost green and red, that is why. There is no way you can plug someone elses settings in when the lamp isn't exactly the same hours or really close, generally it only works with a new lamp, and even then once you get 10-20 hours, it will have already drifted.

No problem, I am not an all-out-expert on calibration either, but I'm getting there (getting close, been calibrating for 4 years on and off)...

OK so one thing to note is that what can be good is for someone to store your settings, also store another setting using a calibration disc, and just compare the two. In the end, what really matters is what looks better on average across most content.

I am working with Spectracal to ensure the accuracy of my Cert'd C6 colorimeter (package costs $800 but I got it a little less than that), and I am still getting some MINOR repeatability errors so I am not 100% convinced on the accuracy of this new meter, which is why I removed my calibrations from this thread temporarily. Once I get some data from Spectracal's support department and am more convinced on accuracy, then I shall repost more information. Another thing is, I probably should have just bought a spectrophotometer instead of another colorimeter (should have gotten me an eye-one Pro, this is not like the eye-one display colorimeter, the i1 pro is a $1000 spectrophotometer that doesn't drift and is almost always accurate and has internal error tests to determine if it is erroring on any values).

When calibrating and if making a FORCED choice between too much Red, Green, or Blue. It's generally better to have a little too much blue than too much red and green, because Red + Green = emphasizes yellow or green, and yellow skin tints drive me crazy. Whereas blue generally makes skin more pale, but if you make skin slightly more pale it often slightly hides skin tone color error. That is why if I am forced to choose between the two, I prefer a slightly cooler image over a warmer image (usually, if all things are equal).
Edited by coderguy - 10/6/12 at 7:26am

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Without a calibration meter, the only thing I would do is set the PJ to STD mode, Gamma to 1 or 2 (your preference), brightness to 45-55 / contrast 45-55 (technically on my very old lamp brightness needed to be 53 and contrast 47, but my bluray player's sharpening filter was messing with the contrast, so I'm not sure the exact correct brightness in your setup. Lower the master color saturation control from 40 to 45 per your liking. I believe the SAT is completely different depending if you choose dark room or STD mode, but I haven't used the Viewsonic in a few weeks so memory is getting foggier on it.

A pluge pattern is very easy to use, just download the AVS Rec709 disk. Should be 45-55 on both controls for STD mode. I can set brightness and contrast by eye and get really close because I've done it so many times, basically if not using a pluge pattern, you just use any PURE black screen and lower the brightness until you stop seeing an improvement in blacks, you'll notice the steps of the blacks getting visibly darker as you lower brightness suddenly stops, raise it back one or two notches. Now adjust the contrast until it looks right, even though technically a pluge pattern gives the most accurate brightness/contrast setting, I sometimes make slight adjustments to these depending on the source content, director's intent be darned. The problem is some source content has messed up brightness/contrast output levels, and I can usually tell and fix it myself just by eye.

Correcting the Red-Tint in dark scenes as "ballpark" by Eye:

I am hesitant to give this advice, because in at least one way it is bad advice to try to change a calibration by eye, but let me say this first:

The Viewsonic Pro8200 has unusually good looking color in all areas OOTB except for the red tint in dark scenes. I truly see less bothersome occasionally "off-color" scenes across the board than almost any other projector (even before the VS was calibrated).

You can try reducing the MASTER saturation control first, this will only help a little for getting rid of the RED tint in dark scenes, and mess with the RED gray-scale one as well (the RGB setting), then you can also go into the CMS and reduce the RED Gain and Saturation slightly (RED will get a bit drabber if you overdo it, just do it a little bit).
Edited by coderguy - 1/13/13 at 4:05am