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Samsung Plasma Panel tweaks for better blacks. - Page 10

post #271 of 366
Thread Starter 
I just recently tweaked my D8000 to remove some misfires. No problems with mll=0.007 ftL and 1300 hours on the panel. A new logic board will not affect your voltage/timing settings.
post #272 of 366
thanks zoyd

im still getting the occassional misfire even at .016 and cannot go any lower - any advice ? wont a new logic board with a previous firmware help ? the misfires only appear on light areas and are very speradic.
post #273 of 366
Zoyd, I have yet to perform these tweaks on my D8000 and am inclined to opt for less aggressive settings. Could you reflect your current status on the first post please?
post #274 of 366
Thread Starter 
I'll update first post later, my current (less aggressive) settings are to put Va Ve and Vscan at sticker settings, Vs at minimum (195 volts) and adjust Yrr just prior to misfires on the scrolling screen wipe.
Edited by zoyd - 9/25/12 at 8:45am
post #275 of 366
i have a volt meter with both red and black probes - how do i check the voltage ?
post #276 of 366
The black and red mean positive and negative, you touch the metal tips to what your measuring, and the dial sets what your measuring, dc etc. Try it on a battery.
post #277 of 366
Quote:
Originally Posted by forsureman View Post

The black and red mean positive and negative, you touch the metal tips to what your measuring, and the dial sets what your measuring, dc etc. Try it on a battery.

yes of course but in this case there is only one measurement pad near the pot on the circuit board
post #278 of 366
Thread Starter 
red probe on pad, black probe on ground (any of the screw heads holding the boards down will do).
post #279 of 366
Ok
dumb question. Vdc, right?
post #280 of 366
Thread Starter 
yes, all the adjustable voltages are DC.
post #281 of 366
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post

So far the needed analog adjustments have only been found in 51" models. At one time I did play around with a logic board program that looked promising since any waveform controls for the larger panels are probably on this board. The program is accessed using an rs-232 connection, terminal emulator, and by setting the panel rs-232 SM switch to "logic". But because I have the 51" model I didn't make any progress with this, someone with the 59 or 64 would have to try.

Zoyd, any chance of a step by step on this one. Assuming no prior knowledge, from the top of what cable is needed and where to obtain, links are fine.

I may just gives this a shot on my 64".
post #282 of 366
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post

red probe on pad, black probe on ground (any of the screw heads holding the boards down will do).

voltages are as per label still getting lots of sparkles on the windows used to calibrate on the avs disk and osd, full screen doesnt seem to suffer though. also notices that the top 3 rows of horizontal pixels are brighter when viewing a movie or an entire black screen - didnt have this issue before - further more also noticed a dithering type of flashing flecks in the black zones.
post #283 of 366
On a zero ire pattern in the lower i would say bottom of the screen i get what looks like pixel misfire, mainly faint , very faint green that looks like the pixels didn't shut off in that section of the screen but when brightness is set correctly using low apl pluge pattern the rest of the zero ire screen has no pixel activity at all , voltages are at optimum factory defaults. Any ideas what might be causing it? hdmi cable. rPN51d6500. Also what does the full zero ire screen supposed to look like when brightness is actually set correctly. With the nose up to the screen in a dark room should you be able to see any pixel activitydoesn't matter what the color is randomly flashing on and off? or zero activity. Avid, Zoyd?
post #284 of 366
My votages are reading way out of spec. I am not sure what has happened. Vsc is over -200V and Vs is over 230V, Ve is over 100V. Anybody have any ideas why the volt meter is reading the voltage this high?
Is there a way to reset the voltages back to factory or the panel settings? I tried lowering Vsc and Vs but there is not much room I can lower them but no where near the panel voltage settings. Panel voltage of Vsc -187, Vs 205. The MLL still measures ok 0.012ftL and the picture is alright as well. I also damaged my trim pots broke off the plastic cap it turns fine but I am just wondering if there needs to be contact from the plastic on the trim pot for it to work optimally. I could turn the Vsc and Vs ones by moving them clockwise /counter clockwise .I would like to replace them if possible.
Edited by hungro - 11/7/12 at 10:22am
post #285 of 366
I read that by turning Vs clockwise roughly 1/8 of a turn you can eliminate (or nearly?) horizontal line bleed. Is there any truth to this? Will this noticeably increase black/brightness levels? Is there any downside to doing this?
post #286 of 366
Maybe Samsung corrected the blacks in the samsung e 450 And 2012 models .It has Nice dark black levels.Just a bit of black crush(no 10 point on e450)(in the darkest darks)But not bad and a good calibrator could reduce it at least some.
Edited by Vic12345 - 2/1/13 at 4:09pm
post #287 of 366
Hello. I have a European 51E6500. As far as I can understand from the first post this "inferior" sized TV should have the needed pots to do this tweaking.
I had the 50" Panasonic ST50 for a little while and the blacks were the best I've ever seen. On the Samsung they are not so good when I have the lights turned off, but they could be a lot worse I guess.

What I really wanted to know is if adjusting the voltage pots could eliminate some green blobs and DSE I'm experiencing on this screen? It's very subtle and for the most part completely invisible, but when I'm playing video games and notice that the screen is darker in one area it really annoys me.
I read that Panasonic released a firmware somewhere that raised the panel voltage and that helped people with green blobs and DSE. Would raising the panel voltage a little reduce the green blobs and DSE on my screen? I figure I could raise the voltage a bit and compensate by adjusting the Yrr to achieve darker blacks at the same time.

The E6500 suffers from the so called "Brightness pops" I have for the most part learned to live with this, but will these adjustments have any influence on this, negative or positive? I have not experienced any "Floating blacks" at all on this set, but could that become an issue after adjusting the pots?

Post from another forum where I describe the DSE and blobs on my screen (the illustration is exaggerated of course):
Quote:
TVstatus_zpsecc1cf04.png

The two red circles indicate a semi-dead subpixel. In 1 the green subpixel will turn off and on like crazy when there's a green screen. Oddly enough it's worse when it has to handle a gray screen like the one I drew, but still only the green color. Number two is red subpixel, and the problem only occurs when displaying a red color.
Neither of these show up during normal viewing, and I think they have been like this from the very start. Only noticed them when I inspected the green and red screens in the DVDO Edge's test pattern sections.

The white spots are areas where the screen is a little brighter than it should. The top one is the most noticeable one. I found this immediately after getting the TV, but simply because I was looking for something like that. During normal viewing I haven't seen it.

The green one is a green blob, I guess. This is just above the Samsung logo. This can be seen if you look for it, but you really have to look for it.

The dark areas is where the screen is darker than it should be. The darkest area I found when playing around with the Miiverse feature on the Wii U. It's noticeable when scolling a white screen with black text up and down the screen. Not otherwise, but it should be noticeable if using a webbrowser too. **The brighter areas are only seen when you are very close to the screen and therefore not a problem. I think, and I really hope that this is a problem with the screen coating, because looking at it from an angle makes it pretty much invisible. I sure hope this doesn't get any worse, or across the whole screen, that would piss me off.**
Adjusting cell light and contrast settings doesn't seem to help.

Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.

EDIT: 672 hours on this set so far, if that matters.

** I no longer suspect the screen coating. I believe this is DSE :/
Edited by Konsolkongen - 2/3/13 at 3:40am
post #288 of 366
Add the pn58c680 to the list. I actually bumped up my voltage to the panel just a bit to get rid of line bleed. I then adjusted the vsc and yrr. Everything on this panel is set 10 higher than op from the factory. I now have minimal line bleed and blacks def have gotten blacker. Thanks to the op!
post #289 of 366
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post

I'll update first post later, my current (less aggressive) settings are to put Va Ve and Vscan at sticker settings, Vs at minimum (195 volts) and adjust Yrr just prior to misfires on the scrolling screen wipe.

What were your final voltage settings. Can you list your sticker and measured settings?
post #290 of 366
Zoyd if I set my Va value to 205 sticker setting, I get a magenta distortion. I have to increase the pot in order to remove this magenta distortion completely, happens during scenes of high brightness.
post #291 of 366
I hope you mean Vs not Va otherwise you would fry the panel.
I do not recommend anyone tweak Va on these panels due to the risk of frying the plasma panel which would make for a very expensive paperweight.
post #292 of 366
Thread Starter 
You can only trim over a relatively narrow range to avoid such drama. Va is the tightest at only +/- about 2V.

@hungro: You mean Vs right? I have mine set close to the sticker value of 205V (max). the magenta effect (green sub-pixel not firing) in bright areas that you see is usually when Yrr is turned too far clockwise.


Sticker values:

Vs 205V
Va 58V
Vsc -190V
Ve 80V

Current measured values:

Vs 204V
Va 57V
Vsc -189V
Ve 80V

I only have Yrr trimmed for an mll of 0.007 ftL
post #293 of 366
Va drives the bottom FFC drivers. Essentially controls the data going into the panel.

Each driver is a chip with 256 to 384 outputs, each output capable of swinging from 0V to Va. They dissipate a lot of heat, hence the heatshields you will often see on them.

They are made very small because this costs less and also because it is not practical to make the driver ICs very big.

If you set Va too high, then you risk damaging them, and this is the one part on a plasma which cannot be replaced or repaired, you need a whole new panel. Damage typically exhibits itself as stuck vertical lines usually lit up bright or missing image for the whole IC's display portion (2.5 inch or so per IC.)

Tweak everything except Va in my opinion, because damage can be undone with those.
Edited by tom669 - 5/31/13 at 6:24am
post #294 of 366
Thread Starter 
Hi Tom - thanks for the details. I notice some non-uniformity in an all black image viewable only in complete darkness in the upper portion of the display extending from the middle to the edge and down from the top about 25%. It appears as sort of mottled blotchy green patches, is there something special in this quadrant of panel about the drivers etc.?
post #295 of 366
I recommend increasing VSCN closer to panel rating, if that does not work try VE.
Edited by tom669 - 5/31/13 at 6:39am
post #296 of 366
Quote:
Originally Posted by tom669 View Post

I hope you mean Vs not Va otherwise you would fry the panel.
I do not recommend anyone tweak Va on these panels due to the risk of frying the plasma panel which would make for a very expensive paperweight.

Yes , I mean VS. VA is at defualt 58 but it reads in the hundred something. My panel voltages are reading out of spec for Vscan, VA, VE and VS. I am not sure what is happening . I think I asked you this before in another thread. Faulty volt meter?, not being properly shielded? bad boards?
post #297 of 366
Thread Starter 
If the panel is working properly I'd try a different meter.
post #298 of 366
Also make sure your meter is on DC not AC.
post #299 of 366
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tom669 View Post

I recommend increasing VSCN closer to panel rating, if that does not work try VE.

Vsc and Ve had not effect, to get rid of the dark screen "blotchies" I had to increase mll via Yrr from 0.006 ftL to 0.009 ftL so I left it at 0.006 ftL because I can't see them during content and the dark levels are better.
post #300 of 366
Quote:
Originally Posted by tom669 View Post

Also make sure your meter is on DC not AC.

The meter is on DC.
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