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Samsung Plasma Panel tweaks for better blacks. - Page 12

post #331 of 368
Hi Zoyd,

I am thinking of performing the Yrr tweak on my PS51D8000, am I right in thinking that this can be done with the TV on and just using a plastic screwdriver?

Cheers

Steve
post #332 of 368
You're right, that's enough smile.gif

An optional multimeter can be usefull too to check voltages wink.gif
post #333 of 368
An update....

I tried the Yrr tweak last night but unfortunately my set was at it's limit already and only the tiniest of turns resulted in misfiring pixels, but the annoying thing is that the misfires were only on the top half of the screen and turning the Yrr pot a bit more resulted in the bottom half getting lovely and black and the top half misfiring with a clear horizontal line separating the two halfs!

Top half was dark grey and the bottom half was getting darker (Black). I had to put the pot back to where it was so my black level is still poor but I could see how low it could go but only on the bottom half frown.gif

I didn't check the voltages against the sticker as I am waiting for a new multimeter to be delivered but the fact that the misfires happened immediately after turning the Yrr pot suggest that my voltages are out or too low?

A picture of what I see before and after tweak (In paint LOL)



Steve
post #334 of 368
eek.gif Very strange this half screen thing.

I'll let the specialist zoyd answer to you. IMHO at least a voltage adjustment is needed.
Edited by KevinNash - 6/26/13 at 12:33am
post #335 of 368
I will definately check the voltages when my multimeter arrives but does seem very strange..

I did downgrade the Firmware to the bright 1015 version last year, do you think it has screwed my voltages a bit? Should I try the latest firmware (Dimmer)?

Thanks Kevin, I'll see what Zoyd thinks.
Edited by buttonsw - 6/26/13 at 1:13am
post #336 of 368
Thread Starter 
Firmware version will not matter. First try lowering Vs (ccw) as far as it will go which is around 195V and see I'd that gives more adjustment room for Yrr. You can also raise Ysc from -190 to -180 (approx). Do not adjust Va or Ve.
post #337 of 368
OK Thanks Zoyd, I will check the voltages when my meter arrives. I just think its strange that only the top half of the screen were misfiring and black level stayed the same and the lower half was getting darker when turning the Yrr pot confused.gif

Would that not indicate that the voltages are too low, and why only the top half affected??

Cheers
post #338 of 368
Thread Starter 
Yes. The top right quadrant behaves the worst, this is normal.
post #339 of 368
Thread Starter 
Look for misfires on a bright screen first and then see if you can live with the greenies on a black screen. They are not visible during normal use.
post #340 of 368
Is the green misfiring on blacks only visible up close ?... Does or would it vary from panel to panel ?
post #341 of 368
Thread Starter 
They are not visible to me but there is likely both panel and viewer variation.
post #342 of 368
Thanks Zoyd,

The misfires were ok on bottom half of screen when adjusting the Yrr and the MLL was lowering but the top half the MLL was not changing as much and the misfires were pretty bad, it's the horizontal split with different black level that was confusing. When turning back the Yrr pot to it's factory default setting the lower half MLL raises up to the top half (Poorer Black) and the misfire goes away, I can't turn the POT even 1 mm before the misfires start on the top half! mad.gif

I could live with the greenies on the Black screen but the lower half was a lovely dark black and the top half was lighter so definately not right!

Thanks for all your help Zoyd, I just knew it wouldn't be as easy as I had hoped but I have hope as the bottom half when the POT was turned had much darker blacks so if I can sort out the top half problem I'll be over the moon!
post #343 of 368
Thread Starter 
I don't think you can avoid the difference between bottom and top half using a full black screen but when there is some material being displayed the top half does not act like that. So don't use a full black screen to make your final determination.
post #344 of 368
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post

They are not visible to me but there is likely both panel and viewer variation.

Cool, thanks.

I may pick up a used Sammy plasma at some point and have a go at a tweak or two wink.gif

If it isn't visible unless stupidly close (the green misfiring on black) it wouldn't be a deal breaker for me
post #345 of 368
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post

I don't think you can avoid the difference between bottom and top half using a full black screen but when there is some material being displayed the top half does not act like that. So don't use a full black screen to make your final determination.

I did test a film with black bars top and bottom and the bottom bar was nice and black and the top bar was noticeably lighter frown.gif

I'll tweak the voltages like you said for VS and Vsc and see if it helps. It really is an amazing tweak if I can get it to work and the TV would then be perfect for me!

Steve
post #346 of 368
Howdy, dropping in after a year or so to check for any breakthroughs on adjusting the digital sets. Seems not. Will check again in the future.

Cheers.
post #347 of 368
Quote:
Originally Posted by zoyd View Post

red probe on pad, black probe on ground (any of the screw heads holding the boards down will do).

I did that, I clipped negative probe on the screw holding the vs board and went to touch the vs pad and POW! it discharged from the pad luckily I and the TV are fine... I dont want to try that again! but my 50B560 went from .026 to .016 so thats a good improvement from your tips Thanks!
Edited by pimpology26 - 10/21/13 at 7:11pm
post #348 of 368
On my 50B560 Im finally down to about .012 any lower and there are too many red misfired pixels. Right now if you get close to the tv you can notice some red misfires but its not noticeable at 5 ft which is where I sit. lowest I got was .03 but every time the picture would change it would leave behind pixels. I really loved those blacks though! Im really happy with the picture now.
post #349 of 368
Quote:
Originally Posted by pimpology26 View Post

I did that, I clipped negative probe on the screw holding the vs board and went to touch the vs pad and POW! it discharged from the pad luckily I and the TV are fine... I dont want to try that again! but my 50B560 went from .026 to .016 so thats a good improvement from your tips Thanks!

"POW!" ??

Zoyd? Is this common or did he accidentally touch the wrong thing?
post #350 of 368
Thread Starter 
Glad to see you had success (and didn't fry anything smile.gif )
post #351 of 368
Quote:
Originally Posted by mkunask View Post


Hi Janos,

don't want to go off topic, but from my experience the best way to compensate for red push is by "skin tone" control (found in advanced picture menu on D8000, not sure about D550). There was short discussion about this on UK forum.

Thank you soooo much! I finally fixed my dreaded red and magenta push! I hated that after calibrating I didnt know what to do. I turned it down to -5 and now my red and magenta push is gone. Thanks to reading this thread I have a new tv. The picture is on par with my dads 51E550! Maybe I wont sell it now and get a LG 5300 for $600 at microcenter LOL
post #352 of 368
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjgarrison View Post

"POW!" ??

Zoyd? Is this common or did he accidentally touch the wrong thing?

I think its because on my DMM I moved my red lead to the 10a current port instead of leaving it on volts!!!! I misread another thread where someone did that and I misinterpreted what they meant.

POW as in a 200v discharge! I bought new test leads and Im getting the courage to check the volts again...maybe tomorrow LOL
post #353 of 368
Getting mentally ready to do the POT MOD wink.gif.
Is my assumption correct that the rear panel of the PS51D8000 NL version can be removed without removing the stand from its mount?
In other words can I remove the rear panel while tv is sitting / standing normally on table?

Thx
Rob
post #354 of 368
Thread Starter 
yes, you do not have to remove the stand. helpful hint: draw the screw locations on a sheet of paper and put the screws there as you remove them, there are two types and it's easy to forget which goes where.
post #355 of 368
I'm measuring a .012 ftl using a spyder 4 and HCFR on my 50b560. I also have to let the tv "warm up" for 8-10 minutes so that the misfires go away from a cold start. I'm sure it's lower than what I'm reading but it looks so much better. Maybe I'll just try to get a used Kuro. If anyone has watched the 2013 hdtv shootout you realize that Kuro is on a different plane of existence than anything else. D-Nice says he had to adjust the 500M to make it fair to evaluate with the rest of the lot. He went on to say thats just half of what the potential is for the Kuros.
post #356 of 368

great.These are HDR iPhone shots, If you look very hard you can just barely make out the black borders.
 

6.gif

post #357 of 368
I recently acquired a pn43d450a2d and i'm looking to perform the least difficult version of this tweak. I don't want to be testing voltages, nor do I want to adjust while the set is powered on.
Can someone recommend the procedure for me?

I also need to know if the back plate can be safely removed from the display while it is on the stand.

So I guess I want to know what vsc controls and I also want to adjust yrr?
Edited by Mik James - 3/19/14 at 9:47am
post #358 of 368
So I basically for my pn43d450a2d want to start with vsc (i'm not sure exactly what vsc controls or what artifacts to look for with it) and move onto yrr keeping an eye out for sparkling green artifacts?
This will improve the contrast of the panel right, not just improve the black level and drop the brightness?

Also I assume the entire back plate has to be removed for this, and I want to make sure the stand isn't attached the the back plate that needs to be removed but is instead attached to the main casing/panel assembly?

Thanks in advance and I can't believe my luck in finding these tweaks for Samsung plasmas smile.gif
post #359 of 368
I decided not to do this when I read some people said half of the screen was lookIng different then the other half after doing it.Mine looks fairly even across the whole screen right now.I don't have any complaints about the black levels.I find it's mostly too do with the program/scene.Some are black crushed,some are not.The pros say samsung have floating blacks.I believe it's means changing all the time.I've never really noticed this when watching regular tv on my budget Sam e450.
post #360 of 368
Thread Starter 
You can remove the backplate while it's on the stand.

The easiest thing to do is leave the voltages where they are and rotate Yrr clockwise until you see (usually magenta) artifacts on a white screen. If you don't want to do it while the power is on that's fine, just check for artifacts after adjusting by a small amount - use "hours on a clock" adjustments for each step. This will lower your black level but each panel is different, it could be very noticeable or it may not be depending on where the panel was set at the factory. It won't affect your maximum white level so contrast ratio will go up.
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