Belkin Power Conditioner/Surge Protector

Hi. I do use the PF60. The display can be turned off completely (it cycles through dimming, off, then bright again - just leave it where you want it). As for most conditioners/surge protectors it will not improve the sound or picture. It's a safety precaution in case of a surge (it's still good to install a whole house surge at the main electrical panel if you have that option).

One of the great features of the PFa60 (which is why I actually purchased it) is that you can set the turn on delay's for each pair of outputs. It can turn on with a 12v trigger from your AVR/Processor and the delayed turn-ons will follow. Nice feature if you don't want all your equipment turning on all at once.

Ditto.

The Belkin is more cost effective as well. Also, look at the APC H15, if you want voltage regulation. For the money, its great. Both of these units can be found for $125~$250. Panamax builds nice units, but they tend to cost more for similar features.

Got it a couple years ago. If you're really concerned about any light, you can put something in front of it. If purchased from Amazon, it's also an easy return. Even though my will go dark, I keep it at two clicks from there - it's not annoying and I can look at it to see if anything it not right (I like to check my current draw once in a while just out of curiosity).

The APC above mentioned is also very nice. They make excellent units. Not sure if all the lights can be turned off though.

It says PURE/AV...

The display on the APC H15 can be turned off.

Digitalart,

This may be the way to go then. APC units are very well built.

That's strange. Here is a link to one you can purchase from Amazon with the 3 buttons under the display, the lower right one is the dimmer button:

http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-AP41300...8045661&sr=8-1

I looks exactly the same as the one I have. Not sure about the 'newer' version. Have you looked at purchasing online instead? Comes with free shipping...

...yes, it also cost ~$75 more.

Hey guys, Cravit8 here,
1) Have I read correctly that it shows the "incoming" volts to the unit and the "outgoing" amperage for a single or all banks?

2) What is the practical (not whimsical curiosity) in being able to see the amperage draw. I am not being sarcastic here, I really assume I'm ignorant about this power draw issue for Belkin to implement it and me to have no idea why.

If I want to see wattage consumed am I supposed to multiply the voltage input by the amperage output...that doens't seem right to me.

The Rocketfish RF-HTS120 that Best Buy sells displays wattage being consumed, which I would LOVE compared to seeing amperage draw, but maybe I'm missing something. I'm leaning way more towards the Belkin PF60 then the Rocketfish model though for many reasons

Thanks!

Well, I bit the bullet and got it from Amazon.
I'll update the OP with the info he wants.

But I would still appreciate an answer about the power draw question I had. Thanks!

hi everyone. I just purchased the Belkin PF60 and got it in the mail today.

I have the Pioneer VSX-1019 receiver and would like to send a trigger from the receiver to turn on the Belkin. On the back of the receiver it has a Control IN/OUT. So I can us a mono plug from the "out" on my receiver to the "in" on the belkin? If so what kind of cord should I use?

Thanks,
Jeff

I think you have it backwards - if the Pioneer is plugged into the Belkin, the Belkin will already need to be on for the Pioneer to work. You would need standby power running on the Pioneer to cause a trigger.

The cable type is a simple 1/8" mono cable with a single band on the plug

On the Belkin I can program my outlet to be always on or switched. So the receptacle I am using for the Pioneer would be always on, which it would have stand by power.....this will work correct?

it might - can you assign which 12v trigger turns on what Belkin outlet?

I just purchased a 3.5m mono cable and connected it from both the IR OUT and CONTROL OUT on the back of the receiver to the DC IN on the back of the power center...and nothing. I read or heard somewhere that the receiver has to have a standby feature. I looked all over and can not figure it out.

I don't mean to offend, but I got the Belkin, plugged everything in first time, including remote cable and it all worked perfectly. Are you posting questions before really thinking about it or are you genuinely confused?

eurovw89, Scout is correct here. The Belkin has no power button, it is always on.
Your Pioneer MOST LIKELY has stand-by power option already "ON" by default.
The Belkin "remote" DC IN is what is used to have other devices "switched" on.
If you wish to have a device (TV, AMP, DVD player, etc) receive power from the Belkin when you turn on your receiver, then you simply connect a 3.5mm (1/8th inch) cable from the receiver's 12-Volt Trigger OUT to the Belkin DC IN 3.5mm IN (a round hole next to the "Remote AC in") and then toggle the switch to the "switched" position instead of Always ON.
The receiver must be in an ALWAYS ON bank, the switched device must be in another bank that is "switched." Pretty simple stuff here.


Actually, I used a 3.5mm (1/8") STEREO cable (has 2 black bands on the plug) and the process worked perfectly, which means my purchase of stereo to mono adapters for the cables I already have was a wasted purcahse. I couldn't even find mono cables online.


I addressed this already, makes your changes and report back.

The PF60 that I just got NEW from Amazon DOES NOT have a display that completely turns off. Which is a bummer for me, because it's just a "come to me!" beacon for the toddler.

This is my only disappointment of the unit. I have it replacing a 8 jack surge protector that had coaxial protection and this Belkin PF60 blows it out of the water! The flat power strip was a wretched mess of cables and looked so ungainly, my wife was even really impressed because all she cares about is looks...though she hasn't seen the credit card bill yet.
I haven't quite figured out how to deal with wallwarts effectively though.

Not offended.

I unplugged everything and I have tried using a 3.5m mono cable from the IR out and tried from the CONTROL out on the back of the receiver (which is sending a 12v signal "out") to the DC IN (receiving the singal "in") on the back of the power center...(which would be sending a 12v trigger from my receiver to the Belkin saying telling it "turn/switch" on and nothing.

I know that the power center is always on and the receptacles can be "programed" to be switched or always on.

The manual has nothing about the "DC IN" port....it states (as it sounds) 'The trigger out function gives you the ability to control an external device equipped with a remote trigger such as a retractable movie screen when the Power Console is switched on.' So I take it that if the 'trigger out DC' sends a signal out then the 'DC IN' accepts a signal in.

In the manual for the power center that is white, only difference is color(on page 11 - http://www.belkin.com/support/dl/p74...-12_manual.pdf ) says:
Step 4
Remote DC Operation
This function allows you to turn your Power Console on and off via any
component that is equipped with a 3~30V DC output (low-voltage trigger out).

Hello. This is how the DC switch works. First of all, make sure your receiver is on a bank that is switched to 'always on', preferably bank 6 as that is the High Current bank. All other banks can be left to 'switched' if you prefer, but your display (TV) can loose it's settings so you may want to leave that bank on.

Once you plug in a mono trigger wire from your AVR trigger out to the in of the Belkin, it becomes activated. But, you have to turn that on from the front (push the Remote button on the front until it clicks and states on). Once you do this, when your AVR switches the trigger, the switched outlets will turn on.

* One other thing you have to check is 'what' turns 'on' the trigger outputs in the AVR. I know in mine, I have to go into the menu and state that the trigger outlets are 'on' on all sources when the AVR is turned on. Check with your AVR. Once you get it all set, you're good to go.

One other point, when you loose power (power outage or long brown-out) the remote button on front of the PF50 has to be turned back on manually as you did the first time.

For power supplies/wall warts, you can use pigtails or extensions such as:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

Thank you for take the time to respond.

I did all the above and still nothing...i am using a mono 1/8 mini plug, but someone else said they used a stereo 1/8 mini plug

Hi,

It really should not matter whether stereo or mono as is just a ground and positive.

Does your front panel of your PF60 show the REMOTE to be ON? Make sure, if not, press the button until it says ON.

Then make sure in your AVR your Trigger setup is on. If you can give me the make and model of your AVR, I can look at the manual online. I have several of these setup and all of then work (with both Denon and NAD AVR's - but will work with any that has a 12 trigger).

Cavchameleon,
Thank you for your time as well. Here is the manual ( http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...G+INSTRUCTIONS )....I might not be looking in the place but I couldnt find anything on how to "turn on" the trigger.

This is driving me nutz....I thank you for your help in advance....I hope you find something I couldn't lol

Jeff

Jeff,

Always glad to help if I can. I went through your manual. Unfortunately you do NOT have a trigger output on your AVR. The 'Control' output is not a trigger output, but a 'Relay' output specific to your AVR to connect to other Pioneer equipment so that you can use only one remote (so it sends remote codes from one piece of equipment to another piece). The other one (IR) is use for an IR repeater. Sorry about that news. A trigger output will give out a constant +12v when a piece of equipment is on.

Another option, but I don't see a switched outlet on your AVR, would be to use a switched outlet on the AVR with a 12v power supply.

Most of the time, 12v Triggers are added on AVR's that start at a specific price and up from that price (like in Denon's, it's the $500 mark).

In you case, don't plug in a cable to the PF60's trigger. You'll have to do the switching manually from the front of the unit for now. If you get an AVR in the future with a trigger, then you can hook it up at that time.

Sorry about the bad news on not being able to use a trigger. Your PF60 is a great unit!

Ray

Ray,
Thanks again, for some reason it was clear as mud for me when I was reading it...thank you for your research.

One last question. I have a PS3 that I use as a Bluray player, I use the Logitech Harmony® Adapter for PLAYSTATION®3 so I able to use my Harmony One remote. On the back of the adapter it has a port for the power supply and it also has a 1/8 mini plug as well...if that mini plug could be used as a "trigger".

I know this is a stretch, maybe

Jeff,

Not a problem.

As far as the mini plug for the remote, it's also uses as an IR or Remote Code repeater and will not work for a "trigger". A trigger has to maintain a +12v (up to +24V) signal at all times and repeaters are intermittent - only when needed and usually only a 5v signal.

On another note, most electronics these days use very little power when in stand-by mode. I know that my PF60 only shows 0.2W when things are on but in idle mode. That's like a night light. The difference is when you have older equipment or things like multiple amps that can draw quite a bit of energy as soon as they are powered on.

I read the manual when I got it, but I don't understand the switch/delay "matrix." maybe I missed something.

So, FYI to all:
I wish the delay function delayed both on and off but it doesn't. I do however like that switched devices delay OFF because I have had the receiver (the trigger) turn off accidentally but was able to turn it back on before the power was cut from my PS3 or Xbox.