Mitsubishi WD 82838 Screen is very dim

No idea either. Try the 2010 Mitsubishi owners thread.

Have you checked your settings? Also, it is possible you have a ballast going bad.

Only way is to get another ballast. Is it having problems starting up? That would be a more definitive clue.

Sounds like the light engine may need to be looked at in that case. You can remove it yourself and ship to mits and have them look at I would imagine.

1st contact Mits and see if they will check it out or where it needs to go. There is a panel on the back of these that you can remove and pull the engine. Just be careful as there are a few connectors that need to be dealt with. Once you see inside, you should see it is pretty self explanatory...

Do not assume that Mitsubsihi has a "mail in" service for consumers to send things like light engines in for repair. After watching this forum for years, I have never seen a situation like that for Mitsubishi. Even if there is a engine repair service, it is possible, for liablity reasons, Mitsubishi would required the removal and re-installation be done by a professional.

Even when DYIs say and sign that they will not hold the manfacturer responsible for the DYI's mistakes, small claims courts often still hold the manfacturer responsible. Also if someone is seriously injured (even out of their own incorrect actions) law suits happen. Remember you can sue over anything and often win even when your case is weak. So manufacturers will often require a professional, who has insurance, do the work.

Keep us informed...

A very helpful thread TO US in the end. Thanks for getting back to us on what worked and what didn't, after a very good description of the symptoms.

That's great news! my 73738 started flickering about 2 months ago, it started on the left side and now its on the right, Iv'e had my set since June of 2011 and the bulb is plenty bright and only has 1600 hrs on it. Iv'e also noticed a slight green push and even more noticeable banding and haloing. This seems to have started with the flicker. A tech with a new light engine will be here Monday, I'll post back on the results.

Do you have an update?

My 73738 burned out a lamp. I replaced it. The screen was perfect for about 10 minutes, then it starts flickering and changing colors..

It also make a noise in the back by the lamp that sounds like morse code..

If I turn off the TV for a few minutes. it come back on perfect for about 10 minutes, then does the same thing.

When I let it just stay on that way, after awhile it will make a loud noise like static, picture goes dark, then the flashing green light comes on, followed by the red one.

Then, I immediately turn it back on and get blue screen, followed by a flickering greenish screen... Weird stuff, as this TV has been flawless since I got it in late 2010.

Not sure if the new lamp received was bad.. It was shipped, or if it is something else. The old lamp was broken inside, like it popped.

Audio is fine.

Thanks, Chris

All is well since replacing the light engine although the flicker did return for a moment a month afterwards( Mits sent out a new bulb and I have not installed it yet )) , this leads me to believe its just sensitive at times to vibration or whatever as it does go away shortly there after, my original bulb now has 2600 hrs and is still bright and going strong. Try reseating the bulb and do a factory reset, is it a bulb from Mits?

On your advise I changed settings.. As soon as I changed the lamp energy to standard from bright, the TV picture went back to normal..

I had a TV repair guy tell me that the color wheel was going bad.. When I started reading about that stuff, I found that it can do the same thing as what my TV does.

Check out this You Tube video I found.. My TV does the exact same thing.. Well, it was until I changed the energy setting..

http://www.youtube.com/all_comments?v=YbgwvsgMdBQ


This guy fixed his set by just cleaning and lubing the color wheel..


Chris..

Let it stay on bright for a day or so then switch back to standard, Your color wheel should be fine given the age of the set , it seems more power related like a loose light bulb that needs a twist for better contact or a dimmer switch if you will. I'm more of the mind set it may be a weak ballast for the the bulb since the light engine comes with a new color wheel as well or maybe just a bad bulb from the start.

keep me posted whether it stabilizes or not!

How do you find out how many hours are on your set and or lamp?


Chris..

Press menu then 2-4-7-0 it's set hours if you replace the lamp you have to keep track of it.

My 8283 has the same symptoms! Has anyone figured out what would cause this?

Haven taken the light engine apart to play with one the light engine can only drop brightness of the video signal by having dirt and dust in it.

The light engine doesn't "make" light. It makes and passes the image by making the image via a bazillion mirrors on the DLP chip, adds color using the color wheel bouncing color off those little mirrors whose light, brightness or otherwise, comes from the lamp/bulb shining through the color wheel.

The means that the image is made, how all those little mirrors are controlled and how the right colors are reflected properly and at the right time is amazing.

From what I can tell if you have a color wheel going bad it is going to show up with your colors, not brightness. Or it won't work at all like those I've seen whose light engine wheel actually breaks part of the wheel and then the light engine doesn't spin.

The mirrors, and there are a couple of them, and lenses in the light engine can and do get foggy, dirty, etc. There's a couple of threads and youtube videos for how to clean light engine parts. BUT if MIT replaced yours I would never suggest cleaning over free replacement.

The last lens, the one inside the TV cabinet itself that shines the image on the mirror in the back, it can get cloudy, can be carefully cleaned, and it is changed with the new light engine.

Obviously it was something in the light engine. Just pointing out the term "light engine" is a bit misleaded. While probably not 100% accurate either it probably would be better named if it was the "image engine".
Edited by jsmiddleton4 - 2/7/13 at 5:16pm

check to make sure the connectors where the lamp plugs in are properly in place. I had that problem with my 65 dlp. the cracking was the power arcing from the ballast to the bulbs pins.