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Building my Baffle Wall in 7 steps....am I missing anything? - Page 2

post #31 of 41
2/6/12 at 1:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adz523 View Post

Thanks, that was helpful. I'll make sure to call YOU when my theater sounds like sh#t.

I think his point is that there are too many variables in designing a baffle wall for your room and your speakers (or anyone's specific room and specific speakers) to have a 7 step cookbook approach. In fact this one size fits all approach could actually do more harm than good. The advice you really need would be specific tailored professional advice. You can build a baffle wall yourself based upon tips, however the result may well not be beneficial let alone optimal.
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post #32 of 41
2/6/12 at 2:46pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gamelover360 View Post

I think his point is that there are too many variables in designing a baffle wall for your room and your speakers (or anyone's specific room and specific speakers) to have a 7 step cookbook approach. In fact this one size fits all approach could actually do more harm than good. The advice you really need would be specific tailored professional advice. You can build a baffle wall yourself based upon tips, however the result may well not be beneficial let alone optimal.

Thank you, I understand that, and of course too many variables could be the response to almost any question or advice asked for in any thread on any av forum. Just thought I'd share what I'm doing and see what other products or general advice other DIY's wanted to share on this topic. Its a miscommunication which happens a lot on this forum, so lets just move on, but I'm still taking thoughts, comments, etc.

By the way, I'm pretty certain the results are going to sound really good but if it doesn't I'm not a-scared to come back on and admit that and look for more answers. Thats what so great about this hobby.
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post #33 of 41
2/6/12 at 2:56pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adz523 View Post

The mdf is only about 4 feet by 12 feet, so top and bottom of frame is open to original front wall. Screen is almost 6 feet in width.

Can you provide a sketch or drawing?
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post #34 of 41
2/6/12 at 6:55pm
I think the biggest danger with your proposal is that it's only half a baffle wall. All the baffle walls I've seen designed by professionals are from floor to ceiling and wall to wall. From my non-expert position, I can imagine that a lot of sound will end up behind the baffle wall, do all sorts of funny things back there, and then re-emerge into the room to mess up the sound.

Is there any particular reason you're not making a full wall ?

Cheers,
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post #35 of 41
2/7/12 at 5:41am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter M View Post

I think the biggest danger with your proposal is that it's only half a baffle wall. All the baffle walls I've seen designed by professionals are from floor to ceiling and wall to wall. From my non-expert position, I can imagine that a lot of sound will end up behind the baffle wall, do all sorts of funny things back there, and then re-emerge into the room to mess up the sound.

Is there any particular reason you're not making a full wall ?

Cheers,

It was my understanding that if you completely fill and deaden the wall behind the baffle wall with something like ultratouch (which is supposed to be the best), then build a stiff rigid 4" frame with 1" mdf and use in wall speakers like triad which have their own inert cabinet and really set those tight into the mdf, there would be no issues, but you're saying that's not the case and its actually worse then let's say installing the inwalls directly into the existing 2x4 drywall? Why?
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post #36 of 41
2/7/12 at 7:00am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adz523 View Post

It was my understanding that if you completely fill and deaden the wall behind the baffle wall with something like ultratouch (which is supposed to be the best), then build a stiff rigid 4" frame with 1" mdf and use in wall speakers like triad which have their own inert cabinet and really set those tight into the mdf, there would be no issues, but you're saying that's not the case and its actually worse then let's say installing the inwalls directly into the existing 2x4 drywall? Why?

Two metaphors ...

(1) Think about blowing over the top of a Coke bottle ... the "flute" or "pipe organ" noises

(2) Think about sound waves like water sloshing around. A partial baffle wall doesn't really keep the water from filling up the cavity back behind the mdf sheet. Sound waves fill a space more like floor to ceiling and wall to wall water than like tracing narrow laser beams.

Obviously, the metaphors are weak, but you get the basic idea. A baffle wall, done right, eliminates all the coke bottle fluting and sloshing that's going on behind the front edge of your speakers otherwise.
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post #37 of 41
2/7/12 at 9:25am
I think a detailed run down (with pictures) of how to build a baffle wall for speakers designed for one would be a good start if that's at all possible.

Gary
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post #38 of 41
2/7/12 at 11:51am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brucemck2 View Post

Two metaphors ...

(1) Think about blowing over the top of a Coke bottle ... the "flute" or "pipe organ" noises

(2) Think about sound waves like water sloshing around. A partial baffle wall doesn't really keep the water from filling up the cavity back behind the mdf sheet. Sound waves fill a space more like floor to ceiling and wall to wall water than like tracing narrow laser beams.

Obviously, the metaphors are weak, but you get the basic idea. A baffle wall, done right, eliminates all the coke bottle fluting and sloshing that's going on behind the front edge of your speakers otherwise.

Thats not so weak, I'm just not sure its relevant to in-walls designed with a non-resonant enclosure that are made to be flush-mounted. I get it for regular speakers, and for in-walls without an enclosure where performance can be dependent on the nature of the wall cavity behind the speaker. Yes or no?
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post #39 of 41
2/7/12 at 12:58pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adz523 View Post

Thats not so weak, I'm just not sure its relevant to in-walls designed with a non-resonant enclosure that are made to be flush-mounted. I get it for regular speakers, and for in-walls without an enclosure where performance can be dependent on the nature of the wall cavity behind the speaker. Yes or no?

You've got it ... good in walls, with nice non resonant enclosures, on nice firm walls are baffle wall mounted speakers.
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post #40 of 41
2/7/12 at 1:03pm
Short answer, no. The lack, or presence of, a back box for an inwall speaker is not relevant to the discussion of a baffle wall. They are two separate and distinct issues.

This "under construction" snap shot was taken before the speakers were installed and the InsulShield completely installed. (Hard to see...but it is what it is). Based upon the name on the photo, take a wild guess as to what organization approved that design before it was built....just saying.
LL
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post #41 of 41
2/7/12 at 6:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adz523 View Post

It was my understanding that if you completely fill and deaden the wall behind the baffle wall with something like ultratouch (which is supposed to be the best), then build a stiff rigid 4" frame with 1" mdf and use in wall speakers like triad which have their own inert cabinet and really set those tight into the mdf, there would be no issues, but you're saying that's not the case and its actually worse then let's say installing the inwalls directly into the existing 2x4 drywall? Why?

The speaker cabinet is not the source of the sound getting in behind your baffle. A quick Google search yielded this image which shows diffraction from the corners of a speaker cabinet.



You'll get this effect at the edges of your baffle.

Cheers,
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