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The Anthracite Coal Build - Page 2

post #31 of 124
2/7/12 at 12:58pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post

a few minor revision ideas that came to mind....

I'd put two of those storage racks on a base, with heavy duty wheels as rolling storage.

Moved the av rack to the side wall and built it in. A slide out Middle Atlantic av rack and two gasketted steel doors would allow for access. Or the av rack could be boxed in, under the stairs.

I can't see the pix . I'm on my phone. I'll check this out when I get home cause I'm not following. Sorry! Be back tonight. Please keep discussing my room till I return! Lol

Discuss. . .
Thanks,
The management.
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post #32 of 124
2/7/12 at 1:17pm
I'll see if I can explain myself a bit better and use this picture as reference as it's the best one I have of the framing I did.



The beam is on the right side and the HVAC on the left.

This is what I did. It could be completly off base and I hope someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

I framed the vertical ladder pieces with 2x4 and hung them from the joists above with the IB-3 clips. After some mucking about getting everything square, paralell, and level I added the 2x3. In the case of the HVAC they attach to the back wall, in the case of the beam they attach the two vertical ladders together. The IB-3 clips are quite flexible so where I could I attached the box framing the beam to the side walls. You can see in the picture the box around the HVAC is attached to the rear wall. I assumed that everything that was decoupled could be attached together. Even though it doesn't look like it, the back wall is decoupled. From here I will install the first layer of sheathing like normal, all the horizontal surfaces first and then the vertical surfaces.

If you have any more questions or want some specific pictures just let me know.
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post #33 of 124
2/7/12 at 4:46pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tedd View Post

You'd have a raised floor, between the doors, since the av rack would need to clear the riser. Recess the av rack's tracking into the raised floor.

My personal choice would be to have the av rack completely out of the room, in the entry niche area.

Hey there guys,

ok I'm home and able to look at the pics. this is my only problem. that little hall i got going on there with the av rack at the end is only 37" wide. wide enough for the hvac mini split to get up in the ceiling and not hit the other beam behind it. moving the door for the storage would not allow a double door which i know i don't need but it also would not allow for even a 36" door pretty much at that point.

i do like the idea of the rack under the steps but r u guys talking about in the room though? or outside the room in my storage area under the steps. i liked the idea of it in the other storage area cause i would have full access at any time without any work what so ever. i would still have enough room to get he hvac unit out if ever need be and also have enough room for electrical service. one of those storage units on that wall are coming out anyway cause i'm adding a sub panel and most likely another structured wire panel cause i'm pretty much grown out of that one. with all the new drops for the theatre alone i will deff need another SW housing. I also need to make room for an HAI panel down the road. i've been putting that off for a while. i got most of the lifting in the house switched over to wave for hai and i have all my camera's and dvr setup for hai control. security is there also just not thermostats yet.

anyway. that's where my head is at with the rack debate and door situation.

jim
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post #34 of 124
2/7/12 at 4:54pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesB77 View Post

I'll see if I can explain myself a bit better and use this picture as reference as it's the best one I have of the framing I did.



The beam is on the right side and the HVAC on the left.

This is what I did. It could be completly off base and I hope someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

I framed the vertical ladder pieces with 2x4 and hung them from the joists above with the IB-3 clips. After some mucking about getting everything square, paralell, and level I added the 2x3. In the case of the HVAC they attach to the back wall, in the case of the beam they attach the two vertical ladders together. The IB-3 clips are quite flexible so where I could I attached the box framing the beam to the side walls. You can see in the picture the box around the HVAC is attached to the rear wall. I assumed that everything that was decoupled could be attached together. Even though it doesn't look like it, the back wall is decoupled. From here I will install the first layer of sheathing like normal, all the horizontal surfaces first and then the vertical surfaces.

If you have any more questions or want some specific pictures just let me know.

Oh I like how ur build is coming out BTW! Ur's was one of the more recent ones I have been following.

I am on the same page with u except I was going to run heavier whisper clips (forgot the exact name) not IB3 clips, across the joists and attach a channel. From that channel I was going to hang leftover 2x4 pieces from the wall studs and run a piece of 5/8 plywood under to form a 'U" pretty much.

Do you all think I'm ok with this?

jim
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post #35 of 124
2/7/12 at 5:18pm
Thank you.

I hadn't put them up yet but I have whisper clips in the middle section to attach the ceiling to.

You would have to check with Ted and see if the whisper clips are rated for the weight you are talking about. The IB-3 clips have a design load of 36lbs per clip. I have 7 per side along the beam section and an extra 2 for the projector hush box (also not shown in this picture) which means I should be ok for about 570lbs of wood, drywall, green glue and projector.
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post #36 of 124
2/7/12 at 5:25pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesB77 View Post

Thank you.

I hadn't put them up yet but I have whisper clips in the middle section to attach the ceiling to.

You would have to check with Ted and see if the whisper clips are rated for the weight you are talking about. The IB-3 clips have a design load of 36lbs per clip. I have 7 per side along the beam section and an extra 2 for the projector hush box (also not shown in this picture) which means I should be ok for about 570lbs of wood, drywall, green glue and projector.

thanks for that James. i appreciate it. I was just back over ur thread. i got all kinds of ideas rolling in my head now. . . again!

jim
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post #37 of 124
2/7/12 at 6:21pm
No problem, I'm glad I can help.
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post #38 of 124
2/8/12 at 6:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimim View Post

... I was going to run heavier whisper clips (forgot the exact name) not IB3 clips, across the joists and attach a channel. From that channel I was going to hang leftover 2x4 pieces from the wall studs and run a piece of 5/8 plywood under to form a 'U" pretty much.

Do you all think I'm ok with this?

jim

Pardon my not knowing, but how big is this "U"?
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post #39 of 124
2/8/12 at 6:29am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White View Post

Pardon my not knowing, but how big is this "U"?

LOL ya that is kinda just mentioned without much detail.

I'm coming down off the joist 12" (includes clip and channel) and a width of at least 7" (this will give 1" space to get insulation in there without stuffing it tight. I was going to attach clips to every joist and double up on the end by walls so 11 each side with channel. Attach a nailer to the channel to attach the 2x4 pieces and then attach the 5/8" ply to the 2x4's ends. The sides will get double DW and the bottom will end up being ply and layer of DW. Whole length of beam is 12'.

Am I good?

jim
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post #40 of 124
2/8/12 at 6:35am
Sounds good!
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post #41 of 124
2/8/12 at 8:16am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White View Post

Sounds good!

Oh boy I got worried when u asked. Glad I'm on the right path!

Ya so no plumber today. He had a boiler blow up last night so someone without heat is deff more impt. Than my stuff I need done. He said tomorrow for sure.
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post #42 of 124
2/8/12 at 5:22pm
Thread Starter 
I forgot there was one more thing indeed to figure out before I begin framing. my rack RO. I want to make the RO as close as possible for now so that there is less going back later.

My finished idea is flush mounted to the wall wit trim around it. Maybe a door.

So my questions are:

1. I assume a 19" usable space is fine. Don't go wider than that cause then I can't use ears for the equipment that has them? I would have to use all shelves then?

2. Some of the MA racks are wider meaning the slim is is not as wide as the mrk or the new beg series. is being wider better or are they wider cause they need to accept greater weights.

3. my RO should prop be big enough so that when i finally install the rack i can frame the RO inside, not face with wood so i can have a reveal for the trim and be able to pretty much remove the rack if need be one day? it wouldn't be "trimmed" in. so pretty much make jams for the RO and add trim.

4. So now the big question is slim vs mrk vs brg? am i only talking the amount of weight they can handle or is it also in what is available for cable management and flexibility?

5. If I can't use ears then I need to use shelves. there is no other way to support equipment correct?

6. At that point is it just picking cable management pieces along with power management pieces also.

7. I know if I don't use a door I might want to look into custom faces.

8. The rack is open in the rear on three sides so cooling isn't an issue. It's in my storage area.

Thanks for all the answers. Am i totally over thinking this? Sorry if I am. There is a lot, i mean a lot on MA website. Oh and I can't use the creator cause I only own macs.

jim
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post #43 of 124
2/8/12 at 6:54pm
Jim,

It looks like you are off to a great start! I will definitely be following your thread.

Nick
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post #44 of 124
2/9/12 at 4:46am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

Jim,

It looks like you are off to a great start! I will definitely be following your thread.

Nick

Thanks nick. i have ur thread up in the background today as i have time to read! lol Waiting for the plumber to come! we got snow last night so i'm all worried he is going to have an emergency call!

jim
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post #45 of 124
2/9/12 at 6:14am
Where are you located Jim? We have had very little snow here in Michigan this year. I am not going to complain one bit .
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post #46 of 124
2/9/12 at 6:17am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimim View Post

I forgot there was one more thing indeed to figure out before I begin framing. my rack RO. I want to make the RO as close as possible for now so that there is less going back later.

My finished idea is flush mounted to the wall wit trim around it. Maybe a door.

So my questions are:

1. I assume a 19" usable space is fine. Don't go wider than that cause then I can't use ears for the equipment that has them? I would have to use all shelves then?

2. Some of the MA racks are wider meaning the slim is is not as wide as the mrk or the new beg series. is being wider better or are they wider cause they need to accept greater weights.

3. my RO should prop be big enough so that when i finally install the rack i can frame the RO inside, not face with wood so i can have a reveal for the trim and be able to pretty much remove the rack if need be one day? it wouldn't be "trimmed" in. so pretty much make jams for the RO and add trim.

4. So now the big question is slim vs mrk vs brg? am i only talking the amount of weight they can handle or is it also in what is available for cable management and flexibility?

5. If I can't use ears then I need to use shelves. there is no other way to support equipment correct?

6. At that point is it just picking cable management pieces along with power management pieces also.

7. I know if I don't use a door I might want to look into custom faces.

8. The rack is open in the rear on three sides so cooling isn't an issue. It's in my storage area.

Thanks for all the answers. Am i totally over thinking this? Sorry if I am. There is a lot, i mean a lot on MA website. Oh and I can't use the creator cause I only own macs.

jim

You won't need to worry about the weight the entire rack can handle, you won't exceed it no matter which rack you buy. If you get a wider rack you will have to get shelving for your items, and then how many "U" slots a shelf has will determine the weight the shelf can handle. (As there is more surface area screwed in to the front holes to keep the shelf level) If you go the shelving route, just because a shelf says it can handle 50 lbs does not mean you will put your nice amp on it and it will stay level and horizontal. They will bend down in the back almost certainly. If you have to get shelves, you want shelves you can connect to the front and back for any item that has a decent weight to it. A cable box etc will be fine but an amp/preamp is going to require a heavy platform. If you get the right width and can use the "ears" items can have then you don't need to worry about shelves.

The thing I never figured out was how to get the proper side rails or backings to be able to secure the back of a shelf correctly on either of the racks I've had in the past. I've done some completely incorrect screw-ins with any pieces I could find to make it work and I have found solutions every time, but I know they were never meant to be the way I did them.
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post #47 of 124
2/9/12 at 7:34am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by damelon View Post

You won't need to worry about the weight the entire rack can handle, you won't exceed it no matter which rack you buy. If you get a wider rack you will have to get shelving for your items, and then how many "U" slots a shelf has will determine the weight the shelf can handle. (As there is more surface area screwed in to the front holes to keep the shelf level) If you go the shelving route, just because a shelf says it can handle 50 lbs does not mean you will put your nice amp on it and it will stay level and horizontal. They will bend down in the back almost certainly. If you have to get shelves, you want shelves you can connect to the front and back for any item that has a decent weight to it. A cable box etc will be fine but an amp/preamp is going to require a heavy platform. If you get the right width and can use the "ears" items can have then you don't need to worry about shelves.

The thing I never figured out was how to get the proper side rails or backings to be able to secure the back of a shelf correctly on either of the racks I've had in the past. I've done some completely incorrect screw-ins with any pieces I could find to make it work and I have found solutions every time, but I know they were never meant to be the way I did them.

Cool thanks for all that info. I got a note made about the weight issue in the back. I can deff see power amps being a problem cause they are sometimes very very heavy.

Thanks again,
jim
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post #48 of 124
2/9/12 at 9:54am
Thread Starter 
OK Chunky is here so the plumbing will be done hopefully by the end of the day. It's nothing much, but he just got called out to a blocked sewer so he's there now. So here is where we r at:







two baseboard heat lines and a gas shutoff valve.

here's where we r at:





gone and gone. then the blocked sewer call came in so. . . just the gas line left. he should be back in an hr tops. then the gas line and we r good.

I got a call into Lou to go pick up lumbar tonight at HD. I actually found wood cheaper at a local place but HD matches and takes an add 10% which the other place won't so we r going there. hey that's money in my pocket that I can spend on speakers! lol

Oh and they are back the block must have been small! lol

Jim
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post #49 of 124
2/9/12 at 10:41am
Thread Starter 
ok so we were talking about the hvac while working on the gas line.



right now here is where we r going with it. i am adding a whole new basement zone. new handler and new compressor. 18000 BTW so what we r thinking is the supply and returns into the room need to be 7" or 8" to get the proper CFM. That means the size of the flex is between 9" and 10". so we also need 4 bays cause os of now no soffit due to ceiling height up on the riser with the entrance door there. i just think a soffit is going to make the room feel even smaller. plus if i did a soffit i would be looking at a pretty high one to fit that size flex in.

so. . . we need 4 bays. 2 supplies up to the front and 2 returns in the back.

bay 1 and bay 8 would be for supplies. this would give up a good even separation. the transformers in bay 8 r gone. they were moved after this pic. so it's clear. the problem is returns. i can't get a second flex in the same bay to 90 the return down. so we can use bay 2. no prob. now the other return?????? 6 is the only other option but that will put if off centered to the other and maybe in the path of the projector. the only option and we won't know till walls get up is bay 7. if we change the layout of that return to my LR we might be able to just make it. Chunky asked, what about one larger return.

I leave this in ur hands everyone who has done this. . . is 2 supplies and one return a option and call it a day?

thanks so much!

jim
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post #50 of 124
2/9/12 at 12:00pm
Thread Starter 
I want to bump this post up cause I still have questions and some might have missed it.

I forgot there was one more thing indeed to figure out before I begin framing. my rack RO. I want to make the RO as close as possible for now so that there is less going back later.

My finished idea is flush mounted to the wall wit trim around it. Maybe a door.

So my questions are:

1. I assume a 19" usable space is fine. Don't go wider than that cause then I can't use ears for the equipment that has them? I would have to use all shelves then?

2. Some of the MA racks are wider meaning the slim is is not as wide as the mrk or the new beg series. is being wider better or are they wider cause they need to accept greater weights.

3. my RO should prop be big enough so that when i finally install the rack i can frame the RO inside, not face with wood so i can have a reveal for the trim and be able to pretty much remove the rack if need be one day? it wouldn't be "trimmed" in. so pretty much make jams for the RO and add trim.

4. So now the big question is slim vs mrk vs brg? am i only talking the amount of weight they can handle or is it also in what is available for cable management and flexibility?

5. If I can't use ears then I need to use shelves. there is no other way to support equipment correct?

6. At that point is it just picking cable management pieces along with power management pieces also.

7. I know if I don't use a door I might want to look into custom faces.

8. The rack is open in the rear on three sides so cooling isn't an issue. It's in my storage area.

Thanks for all the answers. Am i totally over thinking this? Sorry if I am. There is a lot, i mean a lot on MA website. Oh and I can't use the creator cause I only own macs.
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post #51 of 124
2/10/12 at 6:07am
A Middle Atlantic Slim5 is 19 1/8"wide, edge to edge. Installed faceplates are 19" wide, which allows for a 1/16th inch clearance on each end.
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post #52 of 124
2/11/12 at 5:31pm
Thread Starter 
Today we started framing. Here is where we are at. We had to go to the lumbar yard in town to grab a few things and then spent a good deal of time squaring up the room.

We got through 1 1/2 walls. Tomorrow we are going to work for about 3 hours.

I have 3 questions I need answers to for tomorrow.

I am leaving 1 inch for the IB3 clips. The side wall cause of floor height diff we ended up with 1/2 to 3/4" only between joist and wall. Is that ok?

Second, the bottom 2 pics show a drain pipe from my 2nd floor master. The wood is not touching the pipe but the spaces aren't more than 1/4" on 2 of the sides. Problem with that?

Finally, the one pic shows a knee wall which will be DIRECTLY attached to the joists above but the main side wall will attach to that by IB3 clips. The knee wall will not touch the front wall or the HVAC ducts. I assume that is ok? cause the IB3 clips are doing the decouple. We assume the knee wall is like a lower joist in a way. We didn't want to jog the framing up since the ceiling is going to be lower right to that front wall. We needed the lower wall to sit new 2x6 joists on from the HVAC ducts to the front wall.

those joists will not touch HVAC and will be about 1/2 inch lower than the lowest point of duct so DW doesn't come in contact.

Am I ok with those 3 things above?

I'm pretty excited right now. I never understood till now. THIS IS DEFF ALL ABOUT THE JOURNEY!

Thanks everyone.

sidewall


frontwall


area where knee wall is going for lower wall to attach to.


knee wall being used


pipe question




thanks,
jim
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post #53 of 124
2/11/12 at 8:09pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimim View Post

1. I assume a 19" usable space is fine. Don't go wider than that cause then I can't use ears for the equipment that has them? I would have to use all shelves then?

A 19" rack is roughly 19" wide on the outside of the rail. The "usable" standard space is 17.5" (or 10U). But yes, you want to use a standard rack, as no, other than a shelf or rack ears, no other way to mount stuff...

Quote:
2. Some of the MA racks are wider meaning the slim is is not as wide as the mrk or the new beg series. is being wider better or are they wider cause they need to accept greater weights.

Wider in the sense that the "zero U" space (between the components/shelves and the outside edge) is larger. For some applications (mostly talking commerical or IT usage), that space is useful. For our residential A/V stuff, probably not needed. Some folks will loop excess cables into the side spaces to dress the back up nicely.

Quote:
3. my RO should prop be big enough so that when i finally install the rack i can frame the RO inside, not face with wood so i can have a reveal for the trim and be able to pretty much remove the rack if need be one day? it wouldn't be "trimmed" in. so pretty much make jams for the RO and add trim.

Take a close look at the A&E spec sheets on MA's website for the rack you choose. They'll have *exact* measurements for the opening(s) and so forth. Read them and understand them before building...

Quote:
4. So now the big question is slim vs mrk vs brg? am i only talking the amount of weight they can handle or is it also in what is available for cable management and flexibility?

Yeah, you'll never hit the weight issues. The Slim is probably the one to go with - the others have the extra space and features for commercial / IT uses...

Quote:
6. At that point is it just picking cable management pieces along with power management pieces also.

Yep - I really like the MA light bar / power strip combo. Makes for a really cool top-of-rack light.

Quote:
7. I know if I don't use a door I might want to look into custom faces.

Before I started my build I thought the custom faceplates were crazy. Now I love them. Note that when the day comes that you "upgrade" a piece of equipment, you can order replacement faceplates instead of buying a whole new shelf. But yeah, they aren't cheap. It does feel a bit odd that the rack and the accessories cost more than many people's whole A/V system

I limited the amount of stuff I exposed (which meant they needed faceplates) to the stuff you actually need to touch. Other things, like the Global Cache stuff, Ethernet switch, etc. are just hidden behind blank panels. I started putting them on half-shelves mounted on the rear rail, but then found that just laying them on top of another component (something without a lot of heat or top vents), or using Velcro pads to stick them under a shelf, was just as good.

Quote:
8. The rack is open in the rear on three sides so cooling isn't an issue. It's in my storage area.

Yep, you're probably good. I didn't read back in the thread - is the rack going to face into the theater or elsewhere? Just make sure it's not going to put a big hole in your soundproofing efforts...

Quote:
Am i totally over thinking this? Sorry if I am. There is a lot, i mean a lot on MA website. Oh and I can't use the creator cause I only own macs.

Nope - it's not simple the first time. And yeah, they give you a lot of data. But you do want to understand the A&E stuff for whatever rack you pick out. The creator is probably unnecessary for our simple racks. Just add up the "U" heights of your components to plan it out, get blanks, vent panels, etc.

Jeff
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post #54 of 124
2/12/12 at 4:59am


Looking at this picture

When you have a long run of the wall top plate that is going to pass underneath a wide stretch of ductwork and it is only going to be secured at the ends, it is a good ideas to double up that top plate with two 2x4s. It will stiffen the wall.
When you bang on the stud holding up the level does the wall vibrate excessively? if yes not good.
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post #55 of 124
2/12/12 at 6:01am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by NGiovas View Post

Where are you located Jim? We have had very little snow here in Michigan this year. I am not going to complain one bit .

Nick,

Sorry i missed this. I'm outside Scranton PA. We haven't had anything this year except one storm before xmas. All we have been getting is little squalls that are just enough to annoy you and make things messy.

jim
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post #56 of 124
2/12/12 at 6:08am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

A 19" rack is roughly 19" wide on the outside of the rail. The "usable" standard space is 17.5" (or 10U). But yes, you want to use a standard rack, as no, other than a shelf or rack ears, no other way to mount stuff...



Wider in the sense that the "zero U" space (between the components/shelves and the outside edge) is larger. For some applications (mostly talking commerical or IT usage), that space is useful. For our residential A/V stuff, probably not needed. Some folks will loop excess cables into the side spaces to dress the back up nicely.



Take a close look at the A&E spec sheets on MA's website for the rack you choose. They'll have *exact* measurements for the opening(s) and so forth. Read them and understand them before building...



Yeah, you'll never hit the weight issues. The Slim is probably the one to go with - the others have the extra space and features for commercial / IT uses...



Yep - I really like the MA light bar / power strip combo. Makes for a really cool top-of-rack light.



Before I started my build I thought the custom faceplates were crazy. Now I love them. Note that when the day comes that you "upgrade" a piece of equipment, you can order replacement faceplates instead of buying a whole new shelf. But yeah, they aren't cheap. It does feel a bit odd that the rack and the accessories cost more than many people's whole A/V system

I limited the amount of stuff I exposed (which meant they needed faceplates) to the stuff you actually need to touch. Other things, like the Global Cache stuff, Ethernet switch, etc. are just hidden behind blank panels. I started putting them on half-shelves mounted on the rear rail, but then found that just laying them on top of another component (something without a lot of heat or top vents), or using Velcro pads to stick them under a shelf, was just as good.



Yep, you're probably good. I didn't read back in the thread - is the rack going to face into the theater or elsewhere? Just make sure it's not going to put a big hole in your soundproofing efforts...



Nope - it's not simple the first time. And yeah, they give you a lot of data. But you do want to understand the A&E stuff for whatever rack you pick out. The creator is probably unnecessary for our simple racks. Just add up the "U" heights of your components to plan it out, get blanks, vent panels, etc.

Jeff

Jeff,

Thanks so much for all the info. The slim is what I'm going to go with then. Sounds right for me.

That's a real good idea about the global cache units behind fake plates or on components. Thanks for that tip too!

With the slim I know I'll have 4 rails to attach components to the front obviously and the rails in the back will be there for lacing bars and other stuff, but what about when I need a shelf and they don't reach all the way back do I need to order bars to give support to the middle. I know most components will be able to hold their own weight in the front but I'm thinking amps that need to be on shelves. They don't reach all the way back as I'm reading.

Thanks again for all the info.

jim
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post #57 of 124
2/12/12 at 6:13am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post



Looking at this picture

When you have a long run of the wall top plate that is going to pass underneath a wide stretch of ductwork and it is only going to be secured at the ends, it is a good ideas to double up that top plate with two 2x4s. It will stiffen the wall.
When you bang on the stud holding up the level does the wall vibrate excessively? if yes not good.

Right now yes cause the ib3 clips aren't in yet. We have to add the knee wall still that will drop down to catch the lower wall before the ductwork to front wall. THat ductwork span is about 40". I won't really know till I get the clips in or should I just fix that today?

Am I ok with my space between the joists and to plate on that wall being the space is only 1/2" to 3/4"?

Also what do u think of the way we are attaching the knee wall to the joists and using clips on the knee wall to the top plate for decouple.

Are those two things ok?

thanks,
jim
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post #58 of 124
2/12/12 at 10:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimim View Post

but what about when I need a shelf and they don't reach all the way back do I need to order bars to give support to the middle. I know most components will be able to hold their own weight in the front but I'm thinking amps that need to be on shelves. They don't reach all the way back as I'm reading.

The shelves generally attach at 4 points to the front rails, and hang from there. Even my amp shelf is supported this way - and components with rack ears are built to be hung in the same manner...

If you look at a Middle Atlantic 5U shelf commonly used for amps, you'll see the side wall structure to support the weight from the front:



There's a reason why it kinda looks like a railroad bridge...

One thing to note about items with rack ears - if you're going to use them, make sure the components are truly an even "U" high. Some components are not a multiple of 1.75" high, which will leave a gap.

My amp sits on a 5U shelf with the custom faceplate. It's also easier to install components on shelves than using rack ears.

Jeff
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post #59 of 124
2/12/12 at 10:20am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

The shelves generally attach at 4 points to the front rails, and hang from there. Even my amp shelf is supported this way - and components with rack ears are built to be hung in the same manner...

If you look at a Middle Atlantic 5U shelf commonly used for amps, you'll see the side wall structure to support the weight from the front:



There's a reason why it kinda looks like a railroad bridge...

One thing to note about items with rack ears - if you're going to use them, make sure the components are truly an even "U" high. Some components are not a multiple of 1.75" high, which will leave a gap.

My amp sits on a 5U shelf with the custom faceplate. It's also easier to install components on shelves than using rack ears.

Jeff

thanks Jeff,

I deff think I'm going the route of shelves even though it will be more. I think it will be easier to setup. I can then add faceplates if I want to the shelves or just add a door. I don't know where I'm at with that.

I assume that my framing won't change if I decide to add a door down the road?

jim
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post #60 of 124
2/12/12 at 11:36am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jautor View Post

The shelves generally attach at 4 points to the front rails, and hang from there. Even my amp shelf is supported this way - and components with rack ears are built to be hung in the same manner...

If you look at a Middle Atlantic 5U shelf commonly used for amps, you'll see the side wall structure to support the weight from the front:



There's a reason why it kinda looks like a railroad bridge...

One thing to note about items with rack ears - if you're going to use them, make sure the components are truly an even "U" high. Some components are not a multiple of 1.75" high, which will leave a gap.

My amp sits on a 5U shelf with the custom faceplate. It's also easier to install components on shelves than using rack ears.

Jeff

http://www.middleatlantic.com/power/lt1r.htm

the top 2 are the powerstrip/ light u are talking about. if so they are pretty cool.

so i printed out the specs for the rack. so i have all specs i need. i just have to decide on how i am going to trim it out to decide on the RO when i frame. my cabinet guy wants me to make the RO 2" larger to allow for jams to be put in place and then we can do a little reveal when the trim is added. this will give me some wiggle room for 3/4 jams and to shim and level it. I think this might look nice. It will frame it out like a window. i can add the strips that cover the screws after everything is installed cause i think i'm not going to do a door. i really like the faceplate look.

i also saw those universal shelves to throw global cache units on and other little networking things that are needed for my remote setup.

thanks for the help again!

jim
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